Printable View
I'm hoping to find some shallow ~5" 2 or 3 way and squeeze them into the front lower corner of the doors (may have to make a raised mount for them as there isn't much depth available) and then, like you, some 6-1/2 3 ways in the waterfall. Saw somewhere that it's possible to fit an enclosed slim sub under the passenger seat... update: JimLev's build thread had some discussion on speakers, around post 270 on pg 7 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...fer#post366958
So as previously mentioned, I decided to leave the car out with Kory and his Team for the Audio/Video prep work opposed to hauling the the car back over my way for a weeks worth of prep and then taking it back to their shop for the remainder of the build. A few things went into my reasoning here...first, Kory and his Team have shown time and time again that they are more than equipped and capable of handling anything that has been thrown at them during the course of the build. Secondly, Kory brought up some valid points with regards to another shop handling the Audio/Video work. An Audio shop has one goal in mind and that is to give you the best Stereo System they can offer (and ultimately the best sound) for your vehicle. Just on paper, this is not a bad thing nor is it meant to be critical of anyone who chooses to go that route, however when that is you number one focus the rest of the build become secondary. I could tell in my discussion with Kory that had had vehicles leave his shop for Stereo work (or other work) and ultimately when he received the cars back, may have had to modify some of the work done to bring everything back in line with the ultimate goal of finishing out a high quality build. Audio work specifically, cabinets tend to be built in areas that may need to be accessed throughout the rest of the build process and ultimately this adds time and money for the customer and may or may not also effect the sound quality of the system. Finally, it came down to logistics...121 R & R is about 85 miles from me and 70 miles from the shop that would have been doing the Audio work. This would have meant hauling the car there this weekend, back next weekend after prep and then back once again in a few weeks for final component install. I will offer a bit of an opinion here for those that are currently building or think about it (and you can take it for what it is worth)...by all means build the car that YOU want, put everything YOU want in it, change things about it YOU don't like or that YOU want differently, update things, purchase third party items, but whenever possible try to make the build easy on yourself WHEN YOU can without compromising too much! So after the points I have listed above, Kory kept the car at the shop this week. I purchased a couple head units and the cameras only at this point, so I took those out with me yesterday. When I arrived I was surprised to see that Kory and Abel had already done a mock-up of a console and placed it in the car. Seeing the mock-up in the car just set my mind at ease about so many things regarding the Audio & Video set-up. I believe we are leaning toward the remotely mounted Pioneer unit being installed in the traditional location of a stereo (under the dash). I was concerned about this originally as my shifter was so far forward I thought there might be an issue accessing it. The depth of the Pioneer will allow for it to be recessed a bit, but still allow for (2) 4" (maybe 5") speakers mounted either side of the console. One of the concerns Kory had mentioned about placing the unit aft of the shifter was that first (when the top is off) it will take the brunt of any elements (in Texas that means the Summer Sun), also related to this, was that viewing in the direct sunlight could be a bit challenging...all in all I am extremely relieved that we will be able to put the unit where it was meant to be placed. The console you see in the pics is a hybrid...it started out as Dan Ruths console that he offers and then it got trimmed in some areas and wood added to the rear to allow for storage (the armrest will pivot up). The switches you see (Power Windows DS/PS, Safety Pin & one open) will actually be placed in the tapered down wood portion of the console. Inside the storage will also have a "power receptacle" too (I am old enough to know that this is code for cigarette lighter):p. Kory and I talked through the wants vs. needs of a cup holder...I think I can live without it and Kory believes it invites others to think it is okay to bring drinks into you car (fair point). I left yesterday not needing a cup holder...once I got home my wife may have changed my mind for me, but I won't know until she tells me for sure :confused:! Kory didn't think fitting one in would be too much of a challenge. Additionally, we discussed the plan of putting a component speaker just forward of the space where the door striker is installed and then ultimately going with (2) 6-1/2" (5-1/4") speakers worst case behind the seats in the waterfall (he also felt something could be installed low in the chassis behind the door (if need be)...I think we would both be happy with (4) speakers minimum & if we go (6) in we'd feel like we where sneaking something by! As you will notice from the pics, Abel made the cuts for the AC vents as well this week. There is still a bit of clean up being done to the area on the body that receives the hardtop as well as the getting the window frame to mesh with that area in a good way. Abel also did a bit of glass work on the front fenders and he is also working on modifying the area where the waterfall meets the door jamb. Kory said that they would really like to have a lip there to use standard wind lacing for weatherproofing. We briefly discussed locating the front and rear facing cameras as well...the front will require a much longer discussion, but I think we are planning on installing the back-up camera in the lower lip of the body just above where the license would rest...we are both concerned that on this vehicle if we went on the plates the camera might be too low and lose some of its functionality (nothing set in stone yet). We have also lengthened the Hood Scoop Vent a bit and have decided to flip it upside down...the curves this way tend to match the raised hood area a little better. The challenge on this is (and has been) getting someone to machine it. I am going to beef it up just slightly (the face is only .090" now, will increase to .125"). The intent here is to not make it too cumbersome but flexible enough to still curve a bit. Machining it out of aluminum is my best case scenario...I have also talked with someone about the possibility of 3D printing it out of Aluminum as well. The issue with the latter is that there would be some additional post processing to get the final finish required. Finally, I had been trying to source some rubber for the window beltline and once I was able to find a source, we decided to actually replicate the angled pieces that Dan Ruth had provided with his window kit and use them on both the inside and outside of the window (the rubber has not been installed yet in the pics, but the angles have been bonded). Little long winded today, but a lot was covered in my visit yesterday. I have actually started finalizing size and layout of the star as well, but I will share more about that soon!
Various Shots of the Console Mock-up...
Attachment 109790
Attachment 109791
Attachment 109792
Attachment 109793
Attachment 109794
Attachment 109795
Attachment 109796
Attachment 109797
Attachment 109798
Attachment 109799
Vent Install...
Attachment 109800
Attachment 109801
Fender Prep...
Attachment 109802
Attachment 109803
Waterfall Mods...
Attachment 109804
Hood Scoop Vent...
Attachment 109805
Back-Up Camera Location (proposed)...
Attachment 109806
Hardtop Fit-Up Buildup...
Attachment 109807
So after a few no quotes and several other exorbitantly priced quotes on the one-off Hood Scoop Vent I designed, I reached out to gentleman that has 3D printed the plastic prototypes for me. After discussing a bit, I have decided to have him 3D print the final part from a 65-35 Aluminum Filament blend. Apparently, they run the same part as the prototype (from an STL file) and oversize it by about 20%. It is then sent out to be Kiln fired where the heat essentially vaporizes the 35% mix of the filament leaving a 100% aluminum part. He will then polish to a show quality finish....previous quotes for CNC Machining the one-off vent have been up to $1200...this guy has guaranteed 100% satisfaction for the price of $225! I will keep you all informed on this, as the aluminum 3D printing is a new process for me that I am not all that familiar with, but if it works like he says it does (he has done custom valve covers this way as well), this is a game changer for custom builds!
I’m excited to see the results. We do a lot of rapid product dev and use 3D printing more and more.
Just a few things to cover this week, first Kory had to talk me off the ledge a bit as I was concerned with the time line we had set (I actually set it, he just agreed to it). We had discussed a few weeks back with me tentatively taking delivery of the vehicle the first week of September (8 weeks away :eek:) and from my perspective there still seems to be a lot to do (including the interior). I felt much better after he assured me twice yesterday that we are ok on time. I then confirmed with Abel our approach on the Audio set-up...
- (1) Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX - Digital Multimedia Reciever (it allows for the "brains" to be mounted in one location and then an extremely thin user interface to mounted anywhere else
- (2) Focal PC100 2-Way 4" x 2-1/16" Speakers to the left and the right of the receiver (enclosed in BoomMat foam enclosures)
- (2) Focal PC165F 2-Way 6-1/2" x 2-5/8" Speakers placed behind each seat in the waterfall (enclosed in BoomMat foam enclosures)
- (1) JBL A6002 2-Channel Amplifier (installed on the Trunk Wall)
The Receiver will power the (2) front speakers while the amp powers the (2) rear speakers. We were hoping to get a second set of speakers somewhere down in front of the door latch area, but it will be extremely difficult given all that is already laid out in that area. I think we all agree this will give a car of this size plenty of quality sound...
Attachment 110192
Attachment 110193
Attachment 110194
We will also have to increase the Jamb contact switches from the (5) pin to the (7) pin set. This is going to require that we move the pin set from the current location (low on the face of the door to low on the rear of the door and on the Hinge Pillar)...
Attachment 110195
Abel also mentioned that IF the spacing of the shifter in relation to the Receiver still is an issue, we may be able to install a different shifter lever, but we have decided to hold off for the time being on this.
The Hood Receiver Ports and Pins are in as well. I don't know that Tim Whittaker still offers the ports, but to me they are a night and day difference from what FFR offers...maybe they should reach out to Tim and have him provide them standard for their kits...
Attachment 110196
Attachment 110197
The Hood Prop is also installed. We went with the center location for a couple of reasons, First the Optional Extra Clearance Hood leaves only a few locations for mounting the prop rod as is and secondly, by mounting in the center of the hood I will be able to access it from either side of the vehicle...
Attachment 110198
The Recessed M/C Covers have been drilled and countersunk as well. I will get these polished or chromed...
Attachment 110199
Finally, Abel has been putting some time in on the area where the Waterfall and the Main Body come together. He actually trimmed the lip off the Waterfall and will panel bond it to the body. The Waterfall edge will be trimmed back and standard Windlacing will be able to be used here to help seal the area. I think this area will look awesome when complete...
Attachment 110200
That is coming along great! Really interested in seeing how the waterfall to body interface at the door develops now that it's been cut...
That sounds like quite a cool process for the 3D printing to remove the 35% non metallic component. Again, will be interesting to see the final part.
Tim still makes the receivers for the hood pins but not the hood pins themselves
Steve
I understand all that work and planning will be worth it! Can you get a better shot of how you mounted both ends of the hood prop rod? That's the one item I did not do yet and would appreciate seeing how you set it up. TY!!
I will follow up later this week with additional pics of the area.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
False Bottom installed in trunk to help with Trunk rigidity and more stable latching (this is all Kory's idea and seemed to work great on Bill's 33)...
Attachment 110546
Attachment 110547
Made it by the shop today. Bodywork is starting now. Will need to be purchasing paint within the next two weeks and Kory says I need to set aside a couple days to be out at the shop during the masking of the Star...;).
Attachment 110595
Attachment 110596
Attachment 110597
Attachment 110598
Attachment 110599
Attachment 110600
As I had previously mentioned, due to cost, I ended up going the route of 3D printing the Hood Scoop Vent out of Aluminum instead of machining...I just received these photos from my guy and must admit, from the photos alone...I am pretty impressed! Hope to have them in my hand by the end of the week...
Attachment 110601
Attachment 110602
Attachment 110603
Painting is exciting, you will enjoy the process
They were doing so much sanding and had everything closed up, I didn't want to disturb anything by opening the hood up to take pics, but I definitely will make a point to the next time I have the opportunity to do so. It is just the 90 degree ball connect bracket attached to the glass cross brace. The end of the rod just happens to land on top of the distributor (for me). I am not sure what hardware was used or if any additional bonding was done, but I will follow up on this.Quote:
Originally Posted by AJT '33
Attachment 110665
I know ya'll are probably sick of hearing about this "dang" vent, but I went and picked this up today...and all I can say is wow! I have used 3D printing for a couple of prototype items (in plastic), but never seen it done with aluminum and I am absolutely amazed at how this turned out...
Attachment 110754
Attachment 110755
Attachment 110756
I’ve got to admit that those 3D printed parts look impressive! I haven’t been involved with this technology since the dark ages, back when printed parts were plastic or wax molding cores. These parts are a major improvement in finish and dimensional fidelity over those days, and they’re made of metal! My questions are: How strong are they? What level of abuse will they tolerate? Are you concerned about damage from an airborne rock or a random tool slip? Even if they are fragile, they look awesome! Glad they turned out so well. Keith
It’s actually much more rigid than I expected it to be. It’s 100% aluminum at this point. I had actually thickened the web by .030” when all the machine shops started freaking out about trying to machine it. Had I known it was going to be this rigid I would have left it where it was. I am pretty sure it would withstand a stout impact and to be honest if a rock hits that area of the hood, I’ll likely be more concerned about the hood and paint...after all I have the model and the guy that did them is right down from where I work.
Kory sent me these updated photos late yesterday...
Attachment 110849
Attachment 110850
Attachment 110851
YUP, I lived that dustfest over the last 5 months too!!!!! Glad to be in wet sanding and not have that dust anymore!!
Attachment 110860
Making final selections on Paint colors and discussing and selecting interior layout and colors as well this weekend...starting to get really exciting now as things are progressing quickly...
Paint Colors...
Attachment 110866
Proposed Interior Layout...
Attachment 110864
Just spent about two hours down at the Motor Vehicle office discussing the future registration & titling of the car. There seems to be some some clarification required on a few items regarding what will allow me to only inspect once, but I have reached out to a couple local builders and they have confirmed what MV was telling me. I also now have an email that I can communicate back and forth through and when it was all said and done they were extremely patient and helpful. Just a few more i's to dot and t's to cross!
Took some important steps today...I needed to cross reference the color chips that I had chosen for the car over to another Manufacturer, so I visited TNT Color in Gainesville this morning to select from some colors they offer that match the previous ones I had chosen. Tony at TNT was pretty quick to find color equivalents and although it chose about five variations of each of the white, silver & blue...I really couldn't tell the difference! :p I guess that is the difference between a professional eye...and mine!
The next stop was back to 121 R & R to meet up with Kory and then head to the upholsterer to talk about interior layout and choose colors (more on that in a minute). They made some good headway this week on the car, lots more bodywork completed...
Attachment 110956
Attachment 110957
Attachment 110958
Attachment 110959
Attachment 110960
Here is a pic of the aluminum hood vent just laying in place...
Attachment 110961
So as mentioned earlier, Kory took me over to Leo's Upholstery in McKinney today and we discussed the Interior Layout that I had envisioned for the car. All along my intention was to go with leather in the interior and even as late as this morning, I was jumping back and forth. In the end, one of the points that kind of brought things home for me was that Ron (@ Leo's) mentioned that leather (even some of the high end stuff) doesn't like direct sun (a lot) or rain. Now with regards to the latter, it is never my intention to drive the car, with the top off, in the rain. I use to ride a motorcycle too and it was never my intention to be caught on it out in a downpour either...but it happens! The direct sunlight is something I hadn't thought about and although I hope to be able to get some significant driving in on this car, at this point I don't know how much time the top will be off compared to on. Also having the top off at car shows would test things pretty good. Ron was quick to point out though, with whichever way I go...it's not going to be the type of car that spends it's entire life out in the sun on a daily basis. For me, what helped me make the pivotal selection was the material itself that I decided to go with. It is Marine Grade Vinyl that has a Carbon Fiber look to it. Ron said that wears and cleans up well and from his perspective, works well also (easy to stitch). I am going to go with Silver stitching and then I am going to fab an aluminum insert (star) that Ron will cover in White vinyl for the door. He is also going to do some research for the armrest as I want to cover this in a "football" leather. This area will see a lot of use and might be susceptible to dirt, sweat, etc., and it will add something a little different. I have found a few football texture vinyls, but Ron said he would check things out and ultimately if we have to use real footballs, we can do that as well. Finally, I decided to upgrade from the stock FFR carpet that came with the kit. I don't really think there is anything too inferior with the carpet in the kit, however I told Ron that I wanted something that if grass got in the car, it wouldn't get trapped in the pile of the carpet. I am staying with the black on this. I am really happy and excited about all the choices I made today. Once again Kory offered up some GREAT opinions, but ultimately let me come to my own conclusions. It was good to have him there for the deciding vote though a couple of times!
Carbon Fiber (look) Marine Grade Vinyl...
Attachment 110962
For the week ahead, I have some design work to do on the door insets for Ron and then there is that whole Motor Vehicle thing I still need to lock down :confused:. And it sounds like it will be more bodywork at the shop from Kory and his team.
Seem to be making some headway on Registration (prep). The local office called me today and confirmed that I should not have any tax due as the statute states "home built" vehicles not be accessed a tax. Also, stated the Replica Street Rod would make the vehicle exempt from the annual inspection. She also stated that I should be prepared to have the local law enforcement task force do a Serial # Audit on the vehicle, so that they would allow for the use of the FFR Chassis # as the VIN. She seemed to think that this truly wasn't necessary based off how she read the documents, but said that when she called to confirm with DMV she got quite a bit of push back from them, so she told me just to plan on it. Please remember that at this point this is all in "theory" at this point. I will move the info to the Registration Thread once it comes to fruition...:p
I think the inspection by the local law enforcement is not only used for making sure the VIN is not in use but to check and make sure the motor\transmission did not come from a hot car. Just make sure you have your recipients for the major components with you when you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOP33
Tim
I drew up some inserts for the upholsterer to use on the door panels and had them cut from 1/8" and then installed some flush pem studs to allow to connect the insert to the main door panel. The is to cover the insert in white vinyl and then stab it onto the field of blue to carry over the star theme...
Attachment 111222
Attachment 111223
Looks perfect for running moonshineQuote:
Originally Posted by JOP33
Yes...check out Bills set-up...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1547329151
Not a lot to update today...the tech that has been handling most of the work on the car was out with some health issues this week, so just a couple items to cover. They worked on some final fit-up of the hardtop to the chassis (specifically the cowl area or upper dash). Having to do a bit of build-up in this area with Dynaglass. Then on the front of the hardtop, they plan on glassing that area to make a smooth transition. They also blocked of the body a bit more this week. I took some pics (and dims) of the area around the shifter as I want to make a teardrop shaped shifter ring instead of using the square or round ones you typically see. I also grabbed up the FFR Door Sills as I think I want to change that design some as well...
Attachment 111378
Attachment 111379
Attachment 111380
Attachment 111381
Attachment 111382
Attachment 111383
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOP33
So why a tear drop and not a star shifter ring?
Tim
Oh Tim, you know that was my first thought :rolleyes:! I know it's difficult to see in the original picture I posted, but it should be a little more clearer in the one shown below...The star would have to have a bend in it and because of very little clearance between the shifter park position and the bottom of where the radio will sit, I would have to skew the star (it would be wider than tall). For that reason alone, I decided to just keep it clean and simple (this should also make the stitching for the shifter boot not be so challenging. With that being said...any true Cowboy fan knows that a teardrop typically makes its appearance on several occasions during a season :p!
Attachment 111519
I also just received a sample swatch of some Faux Football Leather. I thought it would be cool to cover the armrest in the car with Football Leather or something of the sorts since this area will see a lot of use. I am pretty happy with the sample I received. The other option still on the table is to use actual footballs, but I think stitching pieces together to get the size needed may create some issues. I had reached out to Wilson Football last week and told them what I was doing in hopes of getting some Official NFL Football leather, however they informed me that they are not allowed to sell any of the material they use...to which I promptly responded "I'd be happy to take it for free?". Needless to say, I am working on plans B and C now!
Attachment 111520
Just wanted to mention that I am (slowly) beginning to inventory some of the parts I am not using or have used alternatives on. I hope to have some of these items up on the For Sale thread this weekend and will continue to add them as I bring them back from the shop. Below is not a comprehensive list, but what I DO know I have...if interested you can PM me. I also might add, that I don't feel any of these products are inferior by any means. Just in my build, for whatever reason (spacial constraints, aesthetics, layout, etc.) I ended up not using them.
Front Headlights - Factory Five Racing's (33' Stock Parts)
Tail Lights - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
Brake Line Reservoir(s) - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
Rear View Mirror - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
Carpet - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
Stainless Corrugated Radiator Tubing - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
Outside Door Handles - Factory Five Racing (33' Stock Parts)
AC Dash Vents Round, Chrome, Plastic - Classic Auto Air
1/2", 5 on 4.5" Wheel Spacers (2) - Summit Racing
Stainless Polished Front Chin Keel (Dan Ruth's)
Defrost Vent Manifold (Tim Whitaker's)
Trunk Adjustment Mount (Tim Whitaker's)
Thanks
The two most challenging aspects for me, on any project (car or otherwise), have always been budget and deadline...and this project plays out to be no differently. They tend to also be the least fun in dealing with...:p. With that being said, as we get closer to the checkered flag on the Star Mobile One build, Kory and I review both areas. Last month was the first time we added a "deadline" to the discussion, prior to then it had just been budget review. Both budget and deadline have been set by me, so all are decisions that I made and have control over. Budget wise, Kory and his team have done an amazing job accomplishing what I have asked them to within the budget I set and even now we look great in that area! Deadline (or delivery) may be a bit more challenging, and to be honest I knew this when I came up with this date. Last month in our discussion about the delivery date (September 7th, day before the first game) we both accepted that it was realistic, but would be challenging. This month, I believe we are both a little more concerned about hitting that date. What I will say, is that much like every other discussion I have had with Kory or a member of his team, he (they) have always been completely open and honest with their thoughts or concerns and have never been afraid to voice them to me...and to me, there are only a few shops out there with that kind of respect for the owner of the vehicle they are working on. So just to summarize, we are right where we need to be on budget and Kory assures me that he is still targeting the day we spoke about for delivery and will continue to do what he can to make that happen, but in the end we both agreed that we would not sacrifice a less than perfect finished vehicle to hit a date and am extremely ok with that (remember, full interior has to be completed within this time as well :().
I also fully committed to the colors this week by purchasing (1) Gal of Black Epoxy Primer & Catalyst, (1) Qt of Automotive Art Base: Galaxy White, (1) Qt of Automotive Art, Base: Indigo Lights Pearl, (1-1/2) Gals of Automotive Art, Base: Switchblade Silver :D, and (1-1/2) Gals of PPG Concept Clear with Hardener & Reducer...
Attachment 111808
A lot of body prep being done this week at the shop, Aaron, who will be painting the car got point blanked by Kory..."Will this car be painted in two weeks"? After about a full minute pause, Aaron just shook his head up and down and said "I think so"...that's good enough for me.
Attachment 111809
Attachment 111810
Attachment 111811
Attachment 111812
Attachment 111813
Attachment 111814
Attachment 111815
Attachment 111816
Attachment 111817
It's my understanding that Aaron will block down the area where the hardtop will sit, they will then use packing tape down on the surface of the body, place the hardtop on and then will glass and fill the required areas that need it from the hardtop to the body.
They also were able to get the rough cut for the vent done. Still some clean up to do for a nice snug fit, but I love the way this came out!
Attachment 111818
Attachment 111819
In the mean time while Kory and his guys are doing the tough sledding, I am working on a design for door sills, shifter trim plate & an e-brake trim plate. I'll post more about these (hopefully) later this week.
I am also trying to make my final decisions regarding the Grill & Roadster Window Frame finishes.
Have decided to Polish the Roadster Window Frame and Chrome the Grill. I had originally thought about doing both Chrome, but Kory brought up an interesting perspective that I would have never thought about...he said that you really want think about Chroming pieces that are going to be in your line of sight. The reflection on sunny days could cause some issues. To each his own, but I thought that was extremely thought out. Anyway, I removed the glass from the Frame today, just two machine screws on either side and then a gentle tap to push the two pieces apart. The studs in the bottom have an Allen Head Hex configuration in them so they twist out as well, back together with the frame, and it's ready for polish!
Attachment 111877
Attachment 111878
Attachment 111879
Have also added some parts to the Sale Thread...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ed-amp-in-box)
Here are some preliminary designs on the Door Sill, Shifter Trim Ring & E-Brake Trim Ring. I will paper-doll these and confirm fit-up and adjust as needed before going to fab...
Attachment 112056
Attachment 112057
Attachment 112058
Looks like Kory and his guys are making some good headway. Posted some updated pics last night...
Attachment 112092
Attachment 112093
Attachment 112094
Attachment 112095
Attachment 112096
Attachment 112097
Attachment 112098
Attachment 112099
Attachment 112100
And then some guide coat...
Attachment 112101
Attachment 112102
Attachment 112103
:cool:
Made it back out to the shop this weekend. Good progress this week, but it is becoming more evident that we will probably not hit the Delivery Date of 9.6.19 that I had originally hoped for. Although I am a little disappointed with this, as like many situations with this build, I find myself having to make little compromises along the way...do you rush to hit a date you had in your mind or let it progress organically and ultimately result in what hopes to be a high quality build - and of course for me is the latter. With that being said, it looks as though we will only be a week (two max) off that date - keeping my fingers crossed :confused:. First prime coat went on this week and Kory and his team are knee deep in blocking it off. After speaking to him this weekend, he feels like they will be done blocking Monday and possibly have a second (and final) coat of primer on the car. He anticipates being able to start cutting in some color by the end of the week and be in to full blown color the following week!
Attachment 112183
Attachment 112184
Attachment 112185
Attachment 112186
Attachment 112187
Attachment 112188
Attachment 112189
I also had made up some paper dolls of the Shifter Trim Ring, E-Brake Trim Ring & Door Sill...so I took those out with me this weekend to check fit-up. The Shifter Ring fit perfect (almost like I knew what I was doing) and even the E-Brake Ring only needs a few adjustments. The Sill, I am going to make some adjustments and I think I will fab one just to see what the true fit-up is going to be....I am kind of torn on the finish for these. I like the chrome look, but these will have feet drug across them constantly - I have been thinking about the possibility of Linex Spraying them a Blue to match the star, but still undecided on this...
Attachment 112190
Attachment 112191
Attachment 112192
Attachment 112193
Attachment 112194
Attachment 112195
We also have two...three options with regards to laying out the star on the car for masking and painting... First, is just the old fashioned way - Tape, Second is a digital projector that allows to take an image and project it on the wall and Third is an analog projector that works just like an old overhead projector (for those that remember those :p). I think taping off is a good fall back, but I told Kory I would bring out both of these other options and they can go with what they feel will work best. The challenge with both of the projector options is that you have to be about 15 to 20 feet away from the side of the vehicle to get it to size and it has to be fairly dim in the area you area working in...
Attachment 112196
Attachment 112197