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Started final shaping of the spoiler.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/ul4juach.jpg
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/kcrzcgbw.jpg
Welded in the main hoop diagonal bar. Took apart the front of the car for welding completion and chassis paint.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/pg82ybby.jpg
Fiberglassed a channel in the upper waterfall piece to clear the new diagonal bar.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/tjkctq75.jpg
Fitting splitter
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/3ef9f7df.jpg
Lower mounts done
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/8snlu6zc.jpg
Need to trim the fascia to fit the splitter (fascia needs to come down about 1 inch) then will mount the upper splitter supports.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190630/vdz9n8jz.jpg
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/pmajj5zs.jpg
There were a few ways of mounting the splitter supports to the chassis. I felt that small tabs coming through the fascia would look the cleanest. They are welded to the frame and fully functional.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/4smwtp4w.jpg
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Two down, two to go.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190701/mdklfuxv.jpg
Looks like you are really moving along, looks good. Guess I have to get it in gear and progress my build a little faster.... Summer is taking its toll with time allotted to family things and one of my kids getting ready to leave for college for the first time. Really enjoy seeing your progress and innovative ideas...
Thanks James.
Baseball and softball just finished up, we had 3 kids playing on 3 different teams. Between that and work, there wasn't much free time for anything. It's hard to balance life with a crazy project like this, sometimes I head out to the shop late at night when the kids are already in bed. A little bit here and there, here I am 3 years into it...
At least my kids are all grown up although I still have two at home 21 and 20. Maybe I should go back to work full time, only work part time now and somehow I am working harder on all the home project trips with boat to lake for kids and grandkids (got 7 of these with 2 more on the way) and trying to get the GTM built. Think a full working full time again might be a vacation!!
Not the easiest thing, getting the 4 splitter support tabs localized, parallel, welded, and through small slots on the fascia that don't bind up when you slide the fascia on/off. I think I had to put it on and remove it about 30 times...
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/yvr3n883.jpg
Confirming the replacement window frame fits prior to tear-down for chassis paint.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/gm65mtfy.jpg
Getting ready for chassis paint, also removed steering column and upper A-arms.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/k9dv7x24.jpg
Por15 chassis paint on and drying.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190708/7qyhlscn.jpg
Mounting dash which requires fabricating and welding in mounting tabs. The bulk of the Honda dash has been gutted for weight savings, what I have left is surprisingly light, can't be more than a few pounds.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/heqqamut.jpg
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One benefit of the door releases being reversed onto the chassis is that the releases can be placed anywhere. I like that I can easily open both the driver and passenger doors while in a harness.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/je65jnxp.jpg
Appx location of cup holders. Out of the way and plenty of room for a Big Gulp.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/k6uyapcl.jpg
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190718/uuby9p8f.jpg
Yup cup hold is one of those must have modifications!! I have to say you really have a vision to make the very extensive modifications and the car your own personal design. Bet we all will be amazed when you are done, and I have enjoyed the post and seeing it's progression.
Beating panels. The original ffr passenger side tunnel panel sticks out towards the passenger seat, maybe for the e-brake? I'm doing the opposite, pushing it into the tunnel to make as much passenger room as possible.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/68ks458b.jpg
Driver's side modified for access to battery, etc.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/rdppkf54.jpg
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190721/ie7gamgi.jpg
Per another thread, modified the fuel filler for a vent which also allows fine tuning of filler neck position.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190720/29mvn43m.jpg
This last battery access panel will be the hardest, my right leg occupies that space so the panel will have a complex angle. Haven't decided on aluminum vs fiberglass for that one...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1563662104
Attachment 110955
Beeman, Here is my steering wheel thought you may like it, finally it is done.
Functioning horn button with 6 extra buttons, need to figure out what to so with them.
MostafaAttachment 111196Attachment 111197
Very nice! Solid carbon fiber? Looks like you are using a single hard wire with different resistors that are interpreted by a processor? That's probably the ideal setup...Quote:
Originally Posted by KGTM
Yes on carbon fiber and I have my own hardware for decoding the keys and basically replaces the horn connection so nothing extra so it works with standard quick release.
I not sure what to do with then yet, but some ideas are left and left self canceling signal, high beam, all window up/down, may the other two for my dash gauge selections and horn
Mostafa
I like the window idea if you have a pair of extra functions, I'll also have wiper + washer spray
Just want to have few thing I use a lot, like self canceling signals, may be high beam at night, the reset I do not use as much, may be wipers, but my car is not ready for rain.. and I hope it never sees one.
I have no other buttons in my car, expect what is on the column and these.
Mostafa
I forgot to mention, one other steering wheel button I'd like to have is the radar detector mute. It drives me nuts reaching over to find that button...
Are you using a hard wire kit? The kits with a remote let you position an auxiliary mute button wherever you’d like. I put mine on the left side of the tunnel, where your hand naturally rests if your elbow is on the console. The end result is that you can mute the beeping without taking your eyes off the road. The switch naturally lands where your thumb will be.
I have the R3, currently in the cig lighter. Do hard wire kits have a remote mute button?
Got my rear window installed, love the view.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190726/ua56l3s4.jpg
Intake done, 4" to air filter behind the driver's rear inlet. Will build an airbox.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190726/95mkumoo.jpg
well in bay area one might as well forget about radar, it goes off all the time, but If I had radar, that might be one.
I just need to make this work for now and get car registered as I am getting too old to get in this car.
For now it looks good and that may be the most important thing.
Mostafa
Got my rear splash guards installed. Required a little massaging, no big deal. As you can see, prior builder owned rivet stock...
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190727/sq8ah8vt.jpg
Beeman
I have an Escort 9500ci hard wired installed radar system and it has a mute function it one need to use it. In Wyoming where I live not sure I really need a radar detector but might need active radar and sonar to keep from hitting Deer, Elk, Cows or what ever manner of critter decides to jump out in front of you even mountain goats !!
James, you'd probably be better off with a flir system like Cadillac and Mercedes have optioned in the past. I remember reading an article years ago about a Gumball type coast to coast race where a team ran a flir system to spot police hiding under overpasses...
Got the rear aluminum done with the body square to the frame. Wheel center cap to plumb Bob hanging from edge of rear fender is 70mm right side, 69mm left side.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190728/b6p5clt7.jpg
Pulled GTM off the lift, will be nice when it's self powered...new fluids for the roadster, off to Autobahn CC in the morning.
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190728/j9c3nfgx.jpg
Here's the Flir I use on the race car...
https://www.opticsplanet.com/flir-sy...-ntsc-kit.html
Mike- I'm very familiar with that unit, intimately familiar with the 1st gen unit. Cool stuff and very rugged.
Tucked in for a good night's sleep before a very, very,
very exciting day tomorrow...
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190817/frwok5ws.jpg
What an amazing experience...
https://youtu.be/8xhh6OOOsWY
Looks you were have fun......
Great weekend with great friends and a great FFR product on a sacred, legendary track. I'm the tall one in this picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesfr58
https://s18.directupload.net/images/190819/eoww5d4s.jpg
I really Need a day like that. it has been nothing but work.
Yep, back to work this morning!Quote:
Originally Posted by KGTM
Work hard, play hard!
Couple little updates.
Got the hatch hung. Is there some play in the hinges in the closed position? Probably will go away when the weatherstripping is in?
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/kzxidf65.jpg
Simplifying the external door handles to pull-releases. Here's the replacement for the Miata handles.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/i5nf75ws.jpg
I have adjusted on the hatch for a couple of days now and think.... I finally got it in a good place with little to know play. It seems you can adjust the hatch forever, but decide on a happy medium and will go with that and make the rest fit.
Looks like fun at the track, cant wait to get my GTM on the track, glad you had good time.
Thanks, James.
Finishing up the spoiler. Going to reinforce internally, then bond together with the rear hatch. Will have a small subframe to support the aerodynamic stresses.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/wx4hhjjo.jpg
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190825/w2jwk23i.jpg
Yes, there is always some play in the hatch hinges. We do not use any weatherstrip around the hatch opening....mostly because there's no room for it. If you are using the hatch glass, the weight of the glass helps stiffen up the hatch and add enough weight that you don't really notice the play in the hinges as much....
Axle time...
Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled my low mileage donor vette outer CVs. Some CVs have narr/wide race/body orientations, everything on the C5 CVs measured equally. Here is the right orientation of the cage (rounded corners face the boot) and the race (machined lines face the boot - other side is smooth).
Messy job but not bad. Really had to take a full swing with the mallet to get it off the c-clip on the vette axle!
Ordered some Redline CV grease then will pack and install on the FFR axle. Feel free to throw out tips! I think I've read everything I can about the dreaded c-clip...
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/85d8od75.jpg
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/hkwgda8g.jpg
Here's the correct assembly orientation.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/e7nn62sq.jpg
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The race team I was a part of ten years ago was sponsored by Red Line. Don't get me wrong because they have great products and some things I will ONLY use Red Line Oil products for. I mention the sponsorship angle only so you understand that we could use any Red Line product we wanted and it cost us nothing. That said, one of the few Red Line items we would NOT use was the CV grease. The problem with it was that it liquefied at too low of a temperature. You might be fine with that on a street machine but under heavy racing conditions it is not good. It is very difficult to find a grease that does not liquefy, does not chalk, and can handle racing conditions for extended periods of time. I mix my own and do not sell it, but it has worked flawlessly during the 25 hour long races we run. I can tell you that the major ingredient in my mix is Bel Ray Assembly Lube because of its extremely high molybdenum content. The grease tends to chalk with extended periods of high temperature so I add some things to address that, but straight Bel Ray Assembly Lube is what I recommend to my customers to be used for CV grease. Pick up a bottle and I think you will see immediately when you open the top why I use and recommend this grease. One can/bottle of this lube will pack two CVs.
I appreciate the unbiased advice, Mike. Is this the one you are referring to? Looks like a brush applicator can? Thanks.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/wmuto5u7.jpg
Addressing the wiggly hatch hinges. I don't mind Piggly Wiggly, but you have to draw the line somewhere. It's cool to design and manufacture your own hinges for a component car, but sometimes it makes more sense to incorporate an OEM off the shelf part that you know works. Like Lamborghini did with their Nissan headlights in the 90s...
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190830/7tyyeo47.jpg
Yep, that's it and that's a great price too.
I just ordered a couple of your polishing mandrels to prep the Porsche CVs. I didn't realize that you sell the Bel Ray lube too, crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Created a puzzle from the FFR hatch mount and 350z roadster trunk hinge. Same hinge I'm using for the front trunk.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/c9c2274y.jpg
Jig from right angle stock to make sure everything is parallel (especially since the hatch underside is concave).
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/pszf39up.jpg
Lining up everything on the hatch for tack welds.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/tyu7xmnc.jpg
Getting ready to fabricate mounts.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/eyqum72k.jpg
Much lower profile than stock hinges, better control of hatch height vs stock hinges, and solid when in closed position.
https://s17.directupload.net/images/190831/ljpm8nbw.jpg
Looking good. Thanks for the update, I enjoy following your progress.