I am wondering, the fourth pic is good enough to extract measurements and see if the car is lifting in the front or not. Just picking at it . it looks great. The splitter does seem high. Called Stewarts today so I'm about 7 months behind you.
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I am wondering, the fourth pic is good enough to extract measurements and see if the car is lifting in the front or not. Just picking at it . it looks great. The splitter does seem high. Called Stewarts today so I'm about 7 months behind you.
What leads you to believe it's the turbo. I thought it was my turbo but it's rings, and I think because of insufficient IC airflow and detonation. You have a air to water IC so it's prob not anything like mine and prob your turbo. I hope you get it figured out soon, it sucks to not drive it. Nice runs, I wish I taped mine too.
I hope it is the turbo because I have an upgrade for a replacement. The turbo starts to spool then ceases with a clunk. I have a video of it but the gopro wasn't capturing audio very well, you can still hear it. You tell me what you think it is.
http://youtu.be/41r_ZzKLOS8
Please take this with a grain of salt, humor and gentle critique. You should look as good as the Fiat. You are very light and low. Body roll should be minimal. The black Bimmer with wing kind of flatness.
I suspect you need more sway bar in the front and less mush in bushings. Absolutely need a LSD. I hear people say quite frequently that they are seeing their splitters bend up and that they need to add struts to stiffen them.
It is gratifying and encouraging to hear you and others saying that the 818 handles well and is predictable.
Sounds like a solid platform.
I look forward to being around the FFR 818 race car this weekend and seeing what they are doing with their car.
Keep up the good work.
RE, noise: it is tied to the engine RPM. I think it is a single cylinder issue. Could be valve-train on one cylinder, a loose wrist pin or rod bearing. I would do a compression test and have the oil analyzed.
Sounds like it's not spooling at all now( compared to prior) from the video unless I am missing something. The actuator working? Any smoke? You getting full boost(do you have a gauge)? My engine runs but I got smoke, it's not my turbo and I will post the pics of my damage soon. Yours seems like a turbo issue but hard to confirm from the short video.
Scargo, the noise your referring to is not detectable whatsoever in person. The engine has no audible tick at all, I was tripping when i heard the audio on this footage, very misleading. I am going to pad the mount from the frame and it will go away. I'm sure there is some underlying issue causing it, but until i can hear it from outside the car i'm not going to put any energy into it.
I did a compression test and it failed cold and passed hot.
The noise i'm worried about is the clunk you hear just as the turbo would normally start spooling.
Your right metal, there is no spool at all. There is no smoke, I have no gauge but can tell by the sound and feel there is no boost happening. How can i tell if the actuator is working?
You have a friend view it or you could put the gopro in the direction of the actuator and see if it's functioning as you give some throttle under load ( driving ) What were your compression numbers?
Can you gently rev higher than the clunk sound, without spooling (say at 20% TPS), to see if the clunk will happen or not?
Not to belabor the point, but I think the camera mic can hear or pick up a resonance that you may not be able to hear. Like a stethoscope can amplify sounds. It's virtually right over the engine, isn't it? What I think I hear is a frequency that is 1/4th that of the exhaust note. I can't believe it doesn't smoke some if it fails the cold crank compression test. Were the numbers even? How do the plugs look?
On a different direction, Have you checked the oil lines to and from the turbo? and do you know if it's being cooled internally with water? Many of us let our STis run for a while after coming off the track even if it is a water-cooled turbo.
If you haven't, pull the exhaust off the turbo and see if it spins by hand and see how it feels. Even when mine was still working and making boost I could feel the looseness in the center section, or CHRA (Center Housing and Rotating Assembly) and that along with smoke gave me a good indication that it was about to go. Something around .010" slop is the max allowable. You can easily feel that.
Do you know if your oil pressure is ever faltering in those high-G sweepers? That's something to watch with the Go-Pro. If you have good tires and a decent setup you may be at the point that you need at least an Accusump Accumulator. To do it right you will spend $600 for it, valve, adapter, oil filter block and hose.
I'll offer this critique of the photos - if you see that photographer at the next event, tell him to clean the dust off his sensor! All those black spots are dirt on the sensor from some point in the past when he swapped lenses. It is most evident in your side shot where only the car and dust are in focus and everything else is blurred due to panning.
Since this is primarily a track car, some gauges will provide some insurance against failures, especially if you use electronic gauges with a warning feature. Cheap mechanical gauges are tempting, but how much do you want to be staring at gauges when you're out there? Once your oil is up to temp, you really only need to know if something has exceeded your preset warning point.
Hey Brando what mirrors are you using and did they stay put. was the center one of any use?
The side mirrors allow you to change the resistance level on its movement on all axes. The only time mine moves is when I kick it getting out.
On the center mirror I don't have a mounting brace under the dash to support it, but do plan on adding one because at speed the vibration does make it difficult to use. It stays put as far as adjustment goes.
SPA Center Post Sports Car Mirrors - http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...st-series.html
SPA Formula F1 Race Side Mirrors Side - http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...ilability.html
I think HRP discontinued them but there were easy to source elsewhere.
I second this. I have SPA dual digital gauges with the warning lights and memory. Very helpful to see the red light blink. Oil pressure/boost pressure and oil temp/water temp. These can also trigger events. Ex: low boost high boost can trigger a fuel pump solenoid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan78
The photographer offered to photoshop out the dust and apologized for it. I told him no bother, it's not like it was for print or anything.
Good stuff. Oil & boost pressure in addition to oil & water temps, roger that & will do. My car is pretty stark as is, not much past a go-cart. I sort of like it that way, but your right I need some insight to issues and warnings.
I am hoping i can get the turbo off and apart before i leave for week this Friday. I have more work to get there with the spoiler mount.
The journal bearings should be bluish if it was starved of oil right? At least that is what i was told by the turbo city guys.
I am hoping that is was some sort of hardware failure due to being a POS turbo as opposed to an underlying issue
x2 on this. I had SPA dual digital gauges in my boosted s2000 and loved them. Clear, easy to read, and keeps your dash uncluttered with cutting down on the number of gauges necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
Love all the track video. I can feel your enthusiasm through the computer. Makes me want to spend every second in the garage working even more.
That makes happy. I work, raise my new family and this car is my vent and it hasn't been disappointing.Quote:
Originally Posted by metros
I pulled my turbo just now and had to come on here and share these images
I checked the AWIC and pipe and couldn't find even a sliver of aluminum anywhere. I don't understand where these pieces ended up...
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...psbafadb62.jpg
The white is frothy oil
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8c1a0ed5.jpg
more oil, I whiped it down prior to this picture but it was caked all over the place
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/...psd27c46da.jpg
I can move the shaft a couple mm in any direction. There doesn't seem to be a lack of oil or coolant. I'm taking it to the pro's for a proper diagnosis in the morning
Ouch, no good pix.
If the shaft moves, it's not good. Probably blown bearings. And the clunk might be when the shaft gets more tension/pressure under boost it moves and clunks. I had that prob once, it started to move and leak oil, so I changed the shaft with compressor and turbine internals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
That turbos toasted, chunks went out exhaust maybe??
What was the compression readings
I am not sure I don't have a tool to do a compression check yet and I can't remember the original leakdown results as it was months before I got my kit. I know is was double digits cold and triple digits hot if that helps lol
For the chunks to go out the exhaust wouldn't it need to go through the AWIC, intake manifold, pistons and exhaust? That's disturbing, but i think i would see fragments in the intake or AWIC if that happened.
I had a feeling the turbo was toast. I already got the other turbo in and just went for a drive...all seems well. Now I just need to figure out what killed that turbo so fast so I don't destroy this one too.
I have made my suggestion. I will be bending Joe Schenck's ear tomorrow at the track and see what FFR is doing with their engine to keep it alive.
Turbo oil feed seems to be working (there is a restrictor that could get clogged) and with the blown seals that should have smoked like a mother*. When that starts it's a good sign the seals are going and sometimes you can stop and save the CHRA for a rebuild.
You may well have water in your oil. Any froth on the dipstick? Sorry. I'm not liking this scenario.
Yea the pieces can find there way to other locations also, you might wanna be check everywhere.
Man...that SUCKS.
Nothing like working hundreds of hours on something to find a stupid mechanical problem that couldn't have been avoided. I feel your pain man.
Have you started and shut down the engine many times without letting it warm up or go out for a drive before shutting it down?
I don't want to be the one to say this, but it looks like the turbo ingested something. Probably from the first turbo. I would not sweat the oil, I have had turbo seals leak badly and not affect the performance ( just keeps mosquitos away). You need to remove the intercooler and make doubly sure there is absolutely no debris in it. If the turbine parts aren't in the intercooler they went through your motor. Sorry Brando but I think that's the wall your up against.
I obviously feel your pain.
Sorry Brandon- that sucks. Do you have a stock up pipe on? Older one with a cat on it? Those can cause that to the turbo.
Just take a break from the car, don't get discouraged. Crap happens.
You have the opportunity to make it even better.
No No No you guys you have it all wrong, I'm good! The only thing that irritated me is only getting 3 races in after renting a uhaul and driving 3 hours. Blowing up a $250 turbo to replace it with a superior MHI and spending a couple hours doing is all good for me. My car is already fixed I was driving it around last night. I put the better turbo back on it and its a bit quicker now. It took all of 2.5 hours including removal of diffuser and spoiler mount. +1 hour for trying to find aluminum shards.
I am leaving tomorrow for a week so I guess a break is inevitable however, but I am racing July 5th.
I would like to definitively determine the cause of the bearing failure and I would like to know where the aluminum ended up. I am not going to pull my motor apart to do so however.
For the exhaust manifold, cross pipe and up pipe I have a ceramic coated grimspeed. I am almost certain this damage was not caused by a foreign object. If i push the compressor wheel laterally it shifts VERY far, far enough to chip away at that wheel. The bearings went in a bad way, reason TBD. I was warned that this EXACT thing would happen with this turbo and its why I purchased the other one.
I removed the intercooler and I can't find a single shard of anything. I rubbed my finger in every crevasse of the AWIC where it would have accumulated. It must have grinded it down small enough to float through the AWIC, ingest and exit. Hopefully nothing stuck internally. I checked the oil and it looks fine.
I'm glad I had a turbo on the shelf that needed a $60 tune to be install worthy. I realize it's possible I may blow this turbo or even worse a motor but I'm going to take an educated guess and go off my gut feeling and go with it.
I am having the turbo analysed today, will share the results of failure.
Are you having the tune adjusted for the new turbo?
The car was originally tuned with the turbo that is on it now
The compressor on the one I toasted was smaller and made less boost so I didn't re-tune for it.
During lunch I took the turbo to Turbo City and they wouldn't even touch it to assess it. They told me "we wont deal with those Jap P.O.S's". He confidently said that turbo was not suited for racing application and the tolerances and metal choices is horrible.
I can't believe they wouldn't take my money to just open it up and give it a look.
Get a Blouch turbo
Attachment 30244
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Blou...2-2011-WRX-STI
How much was that turbo again? $250 full (housings and CRHA)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
Since metalmaker broached the subject... I have had good luck with my Blouch XTR. It has a good reputation with Subies.
I talked to a guy at the track who used throwaway Chinese or ? turbos and expected them to die at a high frequency. I don't agree with that logic. You should get a couple of seasons on a turbo.
A twin scroll would be the best setup but any single-input, quality ball bearing turbo would be good. The turbine housing size is important. Don't go too big or it will miss out on low-end torque and quick spool-up. With my 400 WHP/400 FPT motor I used the Blouch Dominator 2.5 XTR with the 8cm turbine housing. I'm not suggesting you use a 2.5, I was just giving an example. They offer a 10cm turbine housing for it. I am moving to a Borg-Warner twin-scroll.
Are subies harder on turbos than other cars? I have been running a turbonetics on my Mustang fo many years with substantial abuse and had no failures except a little seal leakage after you shut down. I would not be happy changing it every couple years.
Sorry about the turbo going. Those pieces are disturbing. The intercooler channels or corners seem a likely place to get lodged in to. Disturbing thought for them to go through the engine. They would likely get hung up on the cat if you have one.
Brandon-
What is the approx measurement from the rear hood pin frame bracket to the fiberglass windshield surround (that we had to trim?). I just want to know how far back the windshield fiberglass cowl/surround should go.
Sorry Chad, I have been in Mexico. I will grab a measurement tonight when I get home.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
So I am putting my quest for a CA street legal 818R on hold. This car is going to be a dedicated track car until spring at the soonest.
For those of you wishing to register your car in CA be aware. I failed my brake and light inspection today.
Before my test I made sure the dashboard illuminated for my parking brake, high beams and blinkers. I had my rear license plate illumination lights working, backup lights and blinkers/hazards working. I thought I had all my bases covered and most of the failures came as a surprise.
Here is the fix list:
- Rear backup and turn lights are LED and not DOT
- This one is tough. The only thing i can think of is to drill a hole in the rear and put a white DOT surface light then replace the existing turn signal with an amber DOT surface light. Ugh- Turns signals must auto cancel
- Install stock steering column and wire up. Ugh- Head lights are at 20.5 - must be at 22"
- Put front suspension at street height, tighten front coils. They wont pass 21.75 so if its still short i will get larger diameter donut tires on a temporary rim to pass. UGH!!- Brake hose close to tire at full crank
- Need to adjust- Proportioning valve not DOT
- Bypass valve- Steel braided brake lines not DOT
- Replace lines with rubber DOT lines- Rear reflectors missing
- Find and install- License plate lights LED and not DOT
- Find DOT license plate lights
So instead of dealing with all that nonsense I am going to rebuild my motor instead. I want more HP and there is an underlying issue with my bottom end. That noise the gopro was picking up is now noticeable while driving. Scargo you were right again darn-it. I think it's a wrist pin.
I'm taking this opportunity to do a 2.2 stroker. First thought is STI crank, manly pistons and rods, garrett turbo, align hone block and perhaps more depending on what i see once in there. Racing tolerances.
I'm debating an LSD but think i might stick with my first plan and wait to grenade my 5spd and take the LSD built into the 6spd when the time comes.
I am bummed to be out of commission but plan on building a stronger more durable race motor so in the long haul its for the better.
Metalmaker, we are in the same boat now buddy!
Some are weird regulations. But didn't you have some kind of book with all the rules to respect?
Anyway, so you're ditching the idea of street legalizing it and will build a new motor? Or doing both?
No book, just learned what I could from picking peoples brains.
I'm putting the idea of street legal on hold, i will pick it up in the spring. For now I just want a solid race car that will take a good beating
That's unfortunate to hear. Tough referee or has that been the norm for other builders of other FFR kits?
Frank - before I got my 818 I contacted the DMV here in VA and was referred to contacting a specific state trooper. He only stated that my kit car had to have everything that a brand new car does, which is vague to say the least. I haven't come across a lot of information on getting a kit car registered in VA but am trying to cover all my bases by using wipers, having the stock steering column/wheel, and as much other OEM safety parts as I can. Also hoping that STiPWRD gets done with his kit first and can be the guinea pig for us in VA.