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I agree. I had a very very light carbon/carbon clutch on my WRX for a while, and it had an extremely light flywheel as well. It was a pain to drive around town because the RPMs would drop too much between shifts. It made driving very jerky. It was great for fast upshifts at the track however.Quote:
Originally Posted by freds
Jeff
Body's looking great, well done. I'll be contacting you when I get to that part.
Take that Bodywork!
I'm just waiting for a few more Mini latches for the hood.
http://i.imgur.com/xYj6Dorl.png
Great work Chad!
Thanks-
The Little guy is happy I'm almost finished with "His" race car.... I still need to clean up a few lines, sand down/finish some cuts (I found the voids you guys were talking about...) I need to go buy some 2x4's, I cant get the jacks under it anymore its so low.
http://i.imgur.com/dCwHttwl.png
You sure did turn up the heat towards the end of your build. Tell the little guy congrats on his new car.
I guess this means you will be testing in September :)
Thanks- Yeah, I needed a goal to shoot for. Its amazing how much you can get done when you feel the pressure. There is still alot to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
1. Install front splitter
2. Install rear diffuser
3. Install additional gauges with senders
4. Fabricate and weld in mounts for the rear wing
5. Install the dry sump when it gets here.
6. Fabricate and install a "firewall" for fuel cell
Like I said I'm gone every weekend this month...... so this is going to suck. I'll let you know which test day we are shooting for at BW when we get closer.
Do you remember the measurement from the ground to your front splitter by chance? My car is damn low without it.
nice man. your body pretty much installed itself. how were the headlights/buckets?
It did. It was alot easier than I thought. However, I have done fiberglass on other cars, so maybe that helped.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
The headlights/buckets were not that bad (remember to tape up the headlights when moving stuff around). Its the bottom of the hood that gave me trouble. I'm still not 100% happy with the bottom of the hood/fender clearance. I'm going to work on that a bit more before installing the mini latches. When I could not get things good, I moved to the next thing or corner, and sometimes it would fix itself. There is alot of "pulling" things into place.
No measurement on the splitter, but like you said months back...its a real pain to navigate driveways and trailers with it on. I pushed mine forward 2" which didn't help any. It's already beat-up but I suppose that's inevitable. I was planning to drop the nose an inch, i feel like mine points up some and is scooping air.
That's a short list of big tasks.
I received my Peterson 2 gallon oil tank, it look nice but larger than I anticipated. I'm probably going to install it on the wing support. The rest of the dysump kit comes in 10 days. Have you decided on mounting locations?
I feel you on the deadline. Mine was a CHP appointment. I went hard for 10 days and made huge progress.
The body goes on fairly easy, it's just the tweaking that gets tricky, especially on the S.
My motors at machine shop getting measured out and I too am thinking dry sump, but it's price along with all my other engine build stuff is a bit over my budget. I might do it though.
I'll be going dark for a bit. Hopefully when I return, the car will be completed and looking aggressive.
We will miss you, don't forget your flashlight in the dark so you know where you are going and yes get that built and aggressive. :)
Just a little update:
All the gauges are mounted. Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, volt are all working. No leaks on the senders!!!! I will have to trouble shoot the boost gauge, its not working right now. I also can't hook up the A/F yet because the lack of exhaust. I also mounted my headlight switch. I went everywhere on the block to mount the senders. Kinda a pain, but it worked.
I ditched the digital display since you could not see it in the sun, and bought a 2nd car kit for my Traqdash (which you can see in direct sun). I just need to 3D print a mount for it and run the wire behind the dash.
crappy pic
http://i.imgur.com/zIWqIgzl.jpg
Dude, that looks awesome! What are you using for the center console?
Thanks. No center console for me. The one they sent was way too big, and I really don't need one. I could always make one out of aluminum if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by GUNS
So do you swap the data/gps unit between cars ? Where did you mount the data/gps unit ?Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Also per your previous post, "race cars don't need headlights" !
I don't remember saying anything about headlights......I use those all the time (Flashing slower cars to make sure they see me). I did say, turn signals, Ebrake stuff, windshield wiper (on an R no less), and trunk lights I would not need because its a race car.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
The second car kit comes with power cord, extra GPS antenna, Traqdash Cable. I installed it right in front of shifter. I can easily remove the Traqdash and sensor unit between race cars now. With the Traqmate, you can select what car you are in at start up. So no need to make other changes.
I finally perm mounted the hood with mini latches. I got it the best I could, I'm still not happy with the lower nose. I kept telling myself, "It's a race car, it does not need to be perfect".
Whats nice is that you can still adjust the studs of the mini latches to fine tune things after you drill.
The dry sump should be here Thursday along with some other cool parts :) . Either the front splitter or rear diffuser installation is next on my list.
http://i.imgur.com/JJ40aTql.png
you can't measure the gaps at 120. looks great.
One of the great aspects of building the R. I have said that to myself umpteen times.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Glad Element tuning is finally delivering for you. My drysump shipped today and arrives Tuesday the 26th :)
Can't wait for the pictures of the product and installation
so what dry sump are you getting? what about you Brandon? Can one of you guys do a post on what you found on dry sumps, options, price, etc...? it seems that it might be needed after all...
We both got the Element tuning kit...... But be warned. I ordered at the beginning of July..... There is a oil tank shortage also. So order now, but be prepared to wait a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doowop
It all showed up yesterday. I'll take some pictures after I unpack the goodies.
I guess I can show these since everyone can order them now :P
http://i.imgur.com/xZZ326pl.png
You are slow man.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Not that slow, I just got them yesterday.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Any instructions with the door vents. wondering about the door modification and inner aluminum.
Can anyone refresh me with the benefits of the door vents? I know it's good, I just can't find again why. Pressurized air within the wheel wells (from rolling fast) can escape along the doors, is that it?
The instructions are in the other thread from Jim. Basically, take the door and place the vent on the inside. Trace the vent. Measure ~3/4" inside what you traced, then cut. Then you use 3/16" rivets.
More down force is what they provide along with better cooling.
Here is the dry sump kit. Alot of ARE parts. There is a special pump bracket that attaches to the A/C bracket. Then you have to have the A/C idler arm and pulley already. Then a bunch of -12 fitting$ and hose. I think I can weld a bracket to keep the tank in the rear.
http://i.imgur.com/FQOAhSXl.png
Details and pics on how you mounted the mini latches please :)
Chad is the De-aeration built into the Peterson oil tank? I didn't see one.
And how did you get the vents and canards so darn quick? Mine are in the mail and I thought I was on top of it!
Yes, the strainers etc are inside. The tank is two piece, so you can take the internal parts out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
I called a couple weeks ago to get more vent/mesh material. I just asked if they had the door vents/ canards ready yet. Jim threw the extra set they had for the blue car in a box since I already had an order coming to the Left coast. The canards look good (CF). I may paint the door vents a true black.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bompus
Nothing really special on installing them. They are really easy. I did have to buy 4 additional elongated studs from the mini latch site (4" ones). The stock length ones would not reach in 4 areas. Also use thick fender washers on the studs (studs are 1/4" and the hood pin holes are 1/2") This also gives you some adjustment and "fudge" room. Also remember to double nut the studs with lock nuts once you have everything the way you want.
those are surprisingly nice.
should have kept your killer b headers. they'll fit no problem now that you are ditching the oil cooler and pan.
That is nice stuff, but entirely to much money IMO, just another example of how they get you, but it's a great upgrade for your ride.
What's too much money? The Dry sump? Or the door vents/canards?Quote:
Originally Posted by metalmaker12
If the dry sump, yes pricey, but much cheaper than a built motor.
If door vents and canards, $390 for both does not seem like a lot for a race car..... It's 1.5 race tires :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
You still use the factory oil cooler. Plus, those headers are way too expensive for what you get. I was not impressed at all.
For anyone out there- I will have a basically new (<5 miles)Killer B oil pan/baffle/oil pickup for sale. I figure $550+ shipping is a good deal for the package. PM if you are interested.
Did I read wrong or is it really $2500 for the kit without hoses, and $3500 for a complete kit!!!!:eek:
So the kit you got is $2500!!! just for those 4 pieces..... I should have been sitting down! WTF. Sorry, I'm just blown away by the price.
I am assuming you guys looked at other brands, etc..... and this was the best you found?
Yes, we researched. The person that put the kit together blew up 4 motors. Since he installed the kit, no blown motors. Good enough for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doowop
This was one of the cheaper kits. Again, less than a blown race motor.
Things I have learned in 20 years of racing.
#1 Racing isn't cheap
#2 Do it right the first time, otherwise it will cost you twice as much
#3 Read #1 again
#4 Prepare for the worst
#5 Have fun
My oil starvation cost me a bottom end and turbo. That would have covered my drysump.
It took me 1 hard day of driving to spin my bearing. Granted an STI pan and accusump might have sufficed i'm not taking any chances.