25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

and finally - mounted in the FFMetal Firewall Forward
Attachment 182987 Attachment 182985 Attachment 182986 Attachment 182984

it fits all around, doesn't hit the engine, or the engine cover, I'll probably have to bend the A/C ports a bit to deflect the A/C hoses away from the engine cover

I also had to get a Low Pressure Port fitting for the HVAC as the one provided in the kit is a 90-degree fitting which won't work, another $45 later and will mount it near the unit
I also had to bend the lower port fitting on the compressor to get about a 20 degree angle to clear the headers and engine without running into the 3/4" bar by the ECU as well

Attachment 182989 Attachment 182988

for the A/C to be effective, the plan is to add 2 dash vents, and have 2 vents into the footbox as well - heat can be indirect, but A/C cooling works much better if it can be directed at the driver/passenger
snagged a few vents from Vintage Air with some chrome accents to better match the SpeedHut gauges

Attachment 182990

we've been going hog wild on the dash wiring, and are double/triple checking things - should be able to start mounting and get this beast fired up!

determined that the drier was too high, so I attached to the F-panel, should be good for angles for the A/C lines and adapters now
I added some leftover pieces of thermo-tec behind the drier to minimize some vibration, not that it should matter, but gave some space for the hose clamp that holds the drier in place

Attachment 183030 Attachment 183031 Attachment 183032

Installed the drip line for the condenser, basically formed a "Y" between the two side drains and have a single drop down just attached to the transmission A-frame
Attachment 183033

also did a heater bypass since the space in the engine bay is closing in very quickly
Attachment 183034 Attachment 183036

once the FPR is adjusted I plan on removing the bypass and attaching the octopus of a heater valve on the firewall... yikes!
Attachment 183035

another productive day! I've read many of the threads from Edwardb and others on their Type65 builds with A/C, and while they're different cars - the tooling is the same.
I found an A/C crimping tool that is hydraulic based. It's heavy, but has portability which is different from the vice mounted version

Handheld Hydraulic Hose Crimping Tool Hydra-Krimp 71500 Manual A/C Hose Crimper Kit


Attachment 183085

Now that the condenser, drier and evaporator were in their final resting places, it was a matter of running hoses, trimming to size and crimping them up

Attachment 183087 Attachment 183086 Attachment 183088

just to compare what we started with and what changed, I took the original diagram and added the modifications:

Attachment 183091 Attachment 183093

green is carried over to the new design
yellow is a modified part or swapped with original
red has been removed
also note that there are a ton of blanks, meaning those parts weren't used, things like bulkhead fittings, and heater lines since the HVAC is in the engine bay
and the new #10 Low Pressure port was added to the mix as the provided 90 degree fitting doesn't work in this setup

the crimper worked great!
Attachment 183094 Attachment 183095

and the final locations

Attachment 183097 Attachment 183098

the crimps feel solid, will find out if they leak when I have to fill the system... fingers crossed all ports are good!

simple update, but feels like a step in the right direction

Attachment 183238

here's what was used for fluids:
Engine Oil (Gen3 Coyote w/Moroso Pan): 10 quarts of Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-20
Coolant: about 3.5 gallons of water, and added 16oz. Rislone Hy-per Cool Super Coolant through Moroso expansion tank
Power Steering (KRC Coyote Setup): Honda 08206-9002PE Power Steering Fluid, used about 1.5 quarts
Transmission (Tremec TKX): 2.75 quarts of ACDelco 769476 GM Original Equipment 10-4006 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
Differential (2015+ Mustang IRS): Valvoline SynPower SAE 75W-140 Full Synthetic Gear Oil 2 qts, fill till overflow (comes with limited-slip additive already)
Forte Hydraulic Clutch & Front/Rear Brake system: Valvoline 601458 Brake Fluid (topped off)

also hooked up the battery to the car for the first time - what a tremendous amount of clicks and sounds from the electronics! best part - NO SMOKE :)

we have some gremlins to chase down since that was our first full power on, should be ready to start the engine soon!

edit: we missed 3 leads to hook up to the battery... still no smoke ;) things seem to be working as expected!!

cleaned up more wiring behind the dash, still a bit of a rats nest, but improving - at least it all seems to be working as expected :)

Attachment 183363

next, we trimmed the sides of the dash, tired of fighting the flex - and we drilled the A/C vent holes - prayerfully the last things we drill into the CF dash :)

Attachment 183367 Attachment 183365
Attachment 183366 Attachment 183368 Attachment 183364

next we found a very slow leak on the Forte slave cylinder, the brass washer wasn't centered so there was about a 1 drip per day issue, replaced the washer and will check again tomorrow

Attachment 183369

wired up the wiper motor
Attachment 183370

hung the Gas'N sidepipes, and checked the FPR again, it's around 64-65 during pump prime now

Attachment 183371 Attachment 183372

got a partial start (this was a few days ago) - will get the Lund Tune this week and try again

https://youtu.be/vaNWnxIe0ZI

on initial start (prior to this video) we did have a small gas leak - the FPR wasn't tightened down on the feed or return lines, some contortionism to get a wrench in there and tighten it up - but better now...

at least we know the CEL is working :) the factory tune didn't like that we have the CMCV valves removed and locked open, but the Lund tune should take care of that :)

getting closer!!!

Right on, Todd! Yours fired up pretty fast. Congrats! I had to crank on my Gen3 (spurts of 5 sec or so) for many iterations to get to the first fire. Looking forward to your next video.

Great Job! Can't wait to hear it rev!

This build looks great, love it!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jiriza84641

This build looks great, love it!

---

Thank you! Been struggling with the Coyote running properly, working with Ford Performance and LUND, had the ECU re-flashed by Ford, but still having some issues we're chasing down

it's been about a month since the last update, the biggest issue at hand is that the Gen3 coyote has had some interesting/frustrating issues

1. the engine runs, but only the passenger side (bank1) seems to be firing properly -gets up to 350/400F - the side pipes have that heat patina now
- bank2 (driver side) is getting spark, we tested all the coils with a NOID light, tested continuity and resistance on 90% of the ECU harness - that's 345 potential ports
2. I sent in the ECU to have Ford re-flash the ECU - that took a week
3. Lund Tuning has about 20 logs - which shows these errors - I can't seem to clear the permanent codes, and there is no CEL/MIL indicator light
- we tested all plugs and coils, pulled each and fired - they're all getting spark

Basic PIDs: 44
Trouble Codes:
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit (Permanent)
P0124 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Intermittent (Permanent)
P2017 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1 (Permanent)
P2022 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 2 (Permanent)
P2008 - Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open Bank 1 (Permanent)

P2017, P2022 and P2008 should be non-issues since Lund tunes them out

every log shows that bank#2 (driver) is pegged lean - so either we have too much air, or not enough fuel

4. I asked ford to replace the O2 wire set since we added about 16" of wire to reach both O2 ports - that took a week as well
5. new O2 harness installed, this time I used a 24" O2 extension - same issues
6. Lund says to try to get another O2 sensor for bank2 (even though we've swapped O2 side to side) - so that will be here in a few days - but... the car isn't here :)
7. if the O2 sensor doesn't fix things (and I don't think it will to be honest) - I may have to take the car to a local tuner (AED)


TedG was getting his car back from paint, so we coordinated to take my car up to Ken Pike to get fitted (e.g. cut in the hood, doors, trunk, etc.)

in order to get the car up to Ken, I had to finish up a few things...
- I have the dash 95% complete, waiting on a new CF dash door and hinge setup from FFR, unfortunately being first has some pain points, there are different door hinges on the CF dash and I had the standard dash hinges - it was already epoxied together so I had to order a new door/plate
Attachment 186072

- to drive the car onto the trailer, I needed to add the shifter and also adjusted the angle for the clutch safety switch, basically extended the angle where the switch plate would depress the switch
LOVE the shifter knob I got from Breeze a while back, I think this was his last one back then..
Attachment 186074 Attachment 186073

torqued down the lugnuts and tested the clutch - and had the first gokart (albeit about 50 yards) to get into the trailer
Thanks to Travis (Fman) for loaning the trailer for us to use - such a great guy!

Attachment 186075 Attachment 186076 Attachment 186077

another fun thing to fix is i have a pretty robust power steering leak - really noticed it when turning the rack, so that will be chased down when we get the car back in a few weeks

Hey Todd, sorry to hear that you're still struggling with the coyote. Just a couple of thoughts from me on permanent DTC codes, as I had some fun with those myself. I was trying to troubleshoot a defective MIL and tried to induce a DTC by unplugging the MAF sensor. This generated a permanent DTC code along with a 'regular' DTC code (and the MIL came on once I got that working). I was able to clear the 'regular' DTC code and turn the MIL off but try as I might I couldn't clear the permanent DTC code. I discussed with Ford Performance and they offered to reflash the PCM to get rid of it. After reflashing, the permanent DTC code was still there. Apparently they are stored in a separate memory that can't be flashed. As it turns out, the only way to clear a permanent DTC code is to go through a specific driving sequence to 'prove' to the PCM that the issue has been resolved. Sometimes people report that just driving around for long enough will eventually get permanent DTC codes to clear.

Long story short - a permanent DTC code, in and of itself, is not an indication of a current problem and it's not surprising that they're still there even after Ford reflashed the PCM. If you clear all codes and re-run the engine and the 'regular' codes come back and the MIL comes on then you genuinely still have an issue. Clearly there's still something going on with your engine, but I wanted to pass this along so you're not chasing codes that may or may not mean anything at this point.

Yeah Todd, sorry to hear that you are experiencing some issues, but I think it's to be expected for all of us builders, in one way or another? I'm confident you will figure it all out, and soon you will be cruising and leaving behind all those headaches in the rear view mirror.

I also wanted to say "Nice work on the AC!" Adding Air Conditioning into the build is not for the faint-of-heart! I laugh at those who say it isn't necessary. More like, they couldn't do it! Several folks have asked me why I would add AC. I tell em... "Its because I can!" We can/We did! ;) It's no doubt very involved and takes the right type of builder to take on the option to add-it-in and pull it off successfully! I'm currently working through mine and I knew going into it, it would be a definte challenge. So, good on you for getting past that part!

Anyway, I can't wait to see your car completed and you having a blast putting on the miles, with of course, the never ending smiles. :D

Keep at it and we'll look forward to future updates once you are in final assembly. All best in these final steps towards graduation!

Doug

update, the car should be ready from body panel fit and rough-in this week

Attachment 189466 Attachment 189470Attachment 189471
Attachment 189468Attachment 189472Attachment 189469

edit: another week out

Looking forward to seeing it back in your garage

ready to pick up tomorrow, then back at it!!!

Attachment 189835 Attachment 189836 Attachment 189837 Attachment 189838 Attachment 189839 Attachment 189840
https://imgur.com/vTGulKJ

Nice!! Back in business!

back in the stable! got the chassis back from Ken today! Thanks to Fman again for his trailer usage!!

Attachment 189879 Attachment 189881 Attachment 189880

first step that I knew had to be fixed was a REALLY bad power steering leak, of course - excited to get back on the car after 3 months, I forwent some precautions...

https://i.ibb.co/9GRHfWR/71591364991...8-A3-AB585.jpg Attachment 189882

after thinking, I should have gloves on - BAM! a nice divot - so a little scrub/Band-Aid later - i found the culprit for the P/S leak

Attachment 189883

fortunately I already ordered the Dorman 82540 Power Steering Caps - Power Steering Sealing Washer Assortment $2.69 to fix $20 of P/S fluid all over Ken's parking lot - Sorry Ken!

will refill and test, today was an 8 hour day of travelling/loading/unloading - and my eagerness got the best of my hand, so taking a break tonight :)

update: the 2nd washer failed, and leaked even worse - ended up using an M10 Copper Metric Sealing Washer - all better now!

Autozone warrantied my dead battery - was a whopping 1.4V

can’t complain - new battery and 2 more years of warranty!
Only had to remove the two breeze battery mount nuts and remove the PS return line to get the battery out :cool:
Attachment 189937

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toadster

also wired up the Breeze quick-disconnect harness for the rear lights tonight :)

Attachment 164994 Attachment 164993 Attachment 164992

---

Build is looking great! Does the chrome frame pull apart from the light if you wanted to powder coat it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cv2065

Build is looking great! Does the chrome frame pull apart from the light if you wanted to powder coat it?

---

you'd have to do some deconstructing - but seems doable - here are some pics

Attachment 190862 https://i.ibb.co/R7r4yWW/IMG-9457.jpg

waiting for a callback from Ford - we're thinking it's the engine harness that is causing the engine to run improperly, I've been pulling my hair out on this since April - hopefully Ford ships a new harness and this will fix the issue...

while I'm waiting, doing some more to finish up the car before paint

the glovebox door FITS now with the correct parts! I had to get a new hinge and brackets for the CF dash to accept this properly - I guess that's what happens when non-CF dash parts are sent with the original CF dash


https://i.ibb.co/L9Dt7ch/IMG-9454.jpg

buttoned up the trunk panel and added the bulbseal - Ken said to trim the panel a bit so I'm hoping this will seal things up in back

https://i.ibb.co/JRQQgL7/IMG-9452.jpg

lastly, I got my A/C pedals and extensions from Mike Forte, the main part was to raise up the brake pedal as it was super low in comparison to the clutch/gas pedals
still not happy with the angle of the Whitby brake pedal, the top of the pedal leans forward quite a bit
https://i.ibb.co/M9JxJFj/IMG-9453.jpg

other than removing the pedal and heating up to bend it - I'm unsure what to do next with this... removing the pedal in a nearly finished footbox would be a PITA for sure...

could you have a small wedge of aluminum made and get longer hardware to get the pedal to angle up a bit?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by egchewy79

could you have a small wedge of aluminum made and get longer hardware to get the pedal to angle up a bit?

---

it's possible, but then also drilling 4 concentric holes to align the screws as well - would probably need longer screws for sure on the bottom
maybe I can get my son to print me a spacer on the 3d printer - he was thinking not to use plastic/ABS on the brake pedal, but a solid piece would be pretty 'solid'! :)

BradC stopped by yesterday, his Tesla Powered 33 Hot Rod is stunning in person!!!

https://i.ibb.co/N2XKw5Z/IMG-9461.jpg

He's a whiz at 3D printing and has access to tools to CNC metal as well, will be a 2 part design to angle up the brake pedal so isn't top-forward facing like it is now and makes it more perpendicular like the gas/clutch...

still waiting on Ford to get back to me on the engine harness, the local dealer can order one and get it in 2 days @ $355, would probably be faster than Ford Performance - the last time they shipped my ECU it took a week
I just want to hear this Coyote run properly!!

hello Todd
this is James
How r you
My build is coming slow but i work on it weekly, so it doesn't get stale and sit in a corner.
Going to try to get the rear upper and lower a-arms attach to my frame this weekend I don't know if you have been following.
I to have a friend in Gridley he cnc plasma cuts my parts in literally minutes it's amazing how fast they are.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jamminj

hello Todd
this is James
How r you
My build is coming slow but i work on it weekly, so it doesn't get stale and sit in a corner.
Going to try to get the rear upper and lower a-arms attach to my frame this weekend I don't know if you have been following.
I to have a friend in Gridley he cnc plasma cuts my parts in literally minutes it's amazing how fast they are.

---

fantastic build! love you ingenuity!

after one more final test print for the brake pedal, BradC is a whiz at cad design! We got the right dept now and angle, the last print will be to raise the pedal by about 11mm to have all 3 pedals level.

my son got a new 3D printer (Bambu P1S) which is up to 10X faster than his older Creality Ender 3 3D Printer, not a bad printer at all but the Bambu is next level!

He was able to print out the new pedals in about 1.5 hours where on the Ender3 it would have taken about 5-6 hours. Once we fit this pedal, we'll craft the 1/2" spacer out of aluminum and the 3D printed angle part will be carbon fiber embedded.

https://i.ibb.co/1LFT5wx/IMG-9507.jpg https://i.ibb.co/NKL73s2/IMG-9493.jpg

The glovebox door is now attached and I've added the Glove Box Latch from the 1953-1967 Volkswagen Beetle, like many others, I like the look, and it has a pushbutton versus a scratching key
simply had to create a little longer latch inside the glovebox

https://youtube.com/shorts/Xc6Q1U01V1k

now that we have the shifter placed, we cut the shifter hole and it fits perfectly! We also finished up the wiring behind the dash, added a diode to make the emergency flasher only blink when the button is pushed - I didn't want a red light on the dash all the time that the dash lights were on...

also taped up all the connections where the heatshrink connectors were bare, found a couple of shorts during testing - all better now :)

https://i.ibb.co/rGvD86J/IMG-9500.jpg

next up today is to take some of the parts to an upholsterer.

• Repairing the door cards that haven't held up well from FFR
• adding some door pockets
• covering the trans tunnel cover
• lower dash/radio box wrapped

Here's a pic of the dash, just needs mounted, but leaving loose for a bit more until we get this coyote running right...

https://i.ibb.co/GR5FZL9/IMG-9503.jpg

also prepped the cockpit wall to put in the carpet, used gaffers tape on the seams just in case of any mini gaps they won't show through

https://i.ibb.co/hZ1qygk/IMG-9496.jpg

today Ford is supposed to let me know their steps. Hoping for a new engine harness...

Looking good! I hope Ford comes through for you

Here's hoping Ford gets a new loom to you and it solves the problem.

Car is looking great.

Cheers,
Nige

ford finally came to the conclusion that the engine harness must be the culprit... then they started to look for one to ship to me, ugh - why can't things be done in parallel? we've been working on this since APRIL!

anyhoo... with BradCs excellent knowledge and skills, he and my son Ryan set out to build the perfect brake pedal extension for my Whitby power brake

if you remember where this started, the brake pedal from Whitby's power brake kit was about 3 inches behind the gas and clutch pedals, somewhat a 'pray for brakes' moment would be very scary - so after contacting Whitby, they said there's nothing wrong, others on the forum heated and bent the brake pedal up to a manageable height - neither of which I liked

https://i.ibb.co/pxSzrQj/IMG-7898.jpg

so we opted for a pedal extension, starting with Mike Forte's A/C pedal extenders - which helped bring up the spacing, but was at an odd angle...
so BradC designed a 2-piece design, and my son Ryan would do some test prints on the 3D printer until we got a good geometry and spacing

here are the 4 pieces, original to final from left to right
https://i.ibb.co/9sTz44b/IMG-9559.jpg

each design a bit different from the last, depth, angle, hole alignment, etc.
the final design was CNC'ed from aluminum and the angle pedal was printed with carbon fiber inlay for strength - all with blue loctite socket-head screws and it feels perfect now!

https://youtu.be/ylg4ZdnM80A
https://i.ibb.co/qgVhRCv/71867466075...93018-F4-B.jpg https://i.ibb.co/nkh4ywx/IMG-4915.jpg

what a huge difference when finished!!! The pedals are now flush, and the height is well aligned - SUPER happy how this turned out!

https://i.ibb.co/7VHCvTy/IMG-9567.jpg https://i.ibb.co/tzpVxh3/IMG-9572.jpg https://i.ibb.co/ZMGYybw/IMG-9573.jpg

So frustrating with Ford huh? Let's hope they get you a new harness soon and that gets it going!

Glad you're happy with how the pedal adapter turned out..

got a lot done (or at least feels like progress) yesterday with carpeting, seatbelts, some trim and rear speakers
carpeting wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be - I did the trunk a while ago and that was 50/50 custom vs FFR stock

I am using a heavier black carpet (20 oz) from BassBoatSeats.com, it's $180 for 108 sq/ft (6' x 18') using the FFR pre-cut as a template

layout on the back of the cockpit, as recommended by many is to hang the center piece with some clips to establish location and edges
then spray the bottom portion first, let it dry then the top piece lays in very easily

https://i.ibb.co/xF0M44n/IMG-9574.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Bq67qLR/IMG-9580.jpg

trimming out the speaker and cubby holes is pretty simple once the glue dries, I found that a wide putty scraper was very useful in getting the Breeze cubby trim to not bunch up on the heavier carpet

https://i.ibb.co/85gs0sM/IMG-9581.jpg https://i.ibb.co/cyNZP1X/IMG-9582.jpg

next up, before putting the speakers back in, was to setup the seatbelts - this required putting the seat in the car, measuring from collarbone to the belt adjuster at 10 inches, then mounting and rolling up the excess webbing
this also meant I had to put in Michael Everson's trim rings as the belt hardware won't pass through these so a quick way to level the trim was to use a level and a ruler :)

https://i.ibb.co/xzv79ct/IMG-9584.jpg https://i.ibb.co/6rwz1Cy/IMG-9585.jpg

next we could mount the rear speakers, and my son Ryan developed some 3d printed wedges to mount the 4" speakers in the side of the footboxes which gives the clearance and angles the speakers upward a bit more while keeping it all flush

https://i.ibb.co/St6Z9kd/IMG-9586.jpg https://i.ibb.co/yY21WSd/IMG-9587.jpg

also used the FFR tunnel cover as a template for the sides of the transmission tunnel, I'm having the top of the tunnel upholstered so it will lay over the edges

https://i.ibb.co/SNNPsBL/IMG-9589.jpg https://i.ibb.co/tzP7qwS/IMG-9588-1.jpg

lastly, before buttoning up the dash, I opted to spray the top bar just to keep things dark and not have the bronze peek through if there's a body gap

https://i.ibb.co/ByC2fn5/IMG-9590.jpg

got a FedEx # from Ford, the new harness should be here tomorrow! YAHOO!!!

also, mounted the rear section of the transmission tunnel carpet -what a strange fit/angle, after about 25 minor trims/cuts - got that installed last night

https://i.ibb.co/kDFwmDh/IMG-9602.jpg

test fit the driver carpet footbox carpet, not setup yet, but the Coyote pedal rubs on the carpet, not enough to catch but that's a really tight setup!

Looking good Todd. I hope the Ford harness is the answer. Let me know if you need any help.

Ted

after 6 months of troubleshooting, different wiring tests, Ford overnighted a new engine harness and we tested last night at 9:30 with open headers
will test more, but the driver side header got up to 160F in 30 seconds, same as the passenger (which worked all along) so we're STOKED!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xU31Ef93QyY

Woohoo!

Exciting!

That is awesome, it has been a long time coming!