25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

oh the fun we get ourselves into!

I started fitting the headers, and got a bit ahead of my skis (just being honest)

I fit both sides with a few bolts to check clearances, etc. I posted a separate thread on this, but it was the first time I could physically 'see' the headers in relation to the body

the passenger side has all the room in the world, but the driver side, everything is tight!

Attachment 176665 Attachment 176666

I realized that I had to put the side panel on the driver footbox, so I was checking everything in the area, fusepanel access, etc.
This is where I came upon my blast gate issue that I had installed a while ago - it was binding up so this was the time to fix it!

I realized that the choke cable I used was binding up from the angle of the blast gate mount point, so I installed a small 1/4" aluminum mount and it works great now!

Attachment 176667 https://youtu.be/l2pv7dWe0AQ

with that done, I can button up the side panel for the driver footbox...

I set off to install the headers... oh boy...
I started with the passenger side, and here's where I made a rookie mistake...

I fastened 2 bolts at first, didn't torque them down but use them to hold he gasket and header in place, I proceeded to do 5 more bolts and got them all screwed in but not torqued
the last bolt (rear upper) started in just fine, and it's harder to see so I but my socket on it and started tightening down.

This last bolt was mis-aligned a bit and started cross threading... (insert sad/mad face here)

so I pulled it all out and we determined (along with the local Sacramento Factory Five clan) that it was time to tap the hole...

https://youtu.be/MlFvD7XSfX4

my son and I have never tapped a hole before, let along on a brand new aluminum coyote head- so we tested on a scrap piece of 1/4" aluminum I have laying around
and once we determined that the hole was perfect and the bolts slide like butter, he did the same on the engine... I love this kids patience!
we use cutting oil to ease the cut, and also helps remove debris

Attachment 176669 Attachment 176670

we blew out all the junk we could with the air nozzle, but to go the extra step, I have some nylon plugs from my other tap - A BEER TAP! These worked AWESOME!
normally these are pretty white, but the silver sheen shows that it worked great at cleaning out those threads!

Attachment 176671 Attachment 176672

all bolts move well now, but we had to finalize a few more things before bolting on the headers (again)

we jacked up the car to get the 3rd starter bolt installed from underneath, and also finished mounting the transmission to the A-Frame, and installing the Metco driveshaft loop

I think after 6 trips this weekend to Lowes, Home Depot and Ace, we finally found a 7/16-14 1" bolt that we needed to mount the Metco frame to the transmission
The 1.25" bolts provided by Metco were too long and the .75 bolts from FFR were too short...
3 Forte transmission spacers were installed and we also put red Loctite on the bolts from the driveshaft to the yoke adapter
Attachment 176673

at this point the drivetrain has been torqued down and done - finally! next is the headers... fingers crossed and tons of patience needed!

well some good news, finally got a few minutes last night to install the passenger side header - voila! it fits!
I believe part of our problem is that 2 of the bolts from Stage8 were x-threaded, still need to torque down and fit the locks, but progress!!

Attachment 176753

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

well some good news, finally got a few minutes last night to install the passenger side header - voila! it fits!
I believe part of our problem is that 2 of the bolts from Stage8 were x-threaded, still need to torque down and fit the locks, but progress!!

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TIP: Run it through a few heat/cool cycles and torque the bolts after each one before installing the locks.

Jeff

man it's been a while since an update! I think my license plate should read "SLOWBLD" :)

lots of odd-and-ends, still so much to do!
lots of updates, will probably break into a few posts

Reworked the ABS wiring, I'll probably post a whole separate thread on this. No guarantees it works till I test drive it!
After hours of research and jumping across 3-4 websites, I believe we have the proper wiring setup now.
trackmustangsonline.com
community.drivenasa.com
www.johngeorgeracing.com prior owner of FFR#48 Type65
community.drivenasa.com

my biggest concern was getting the signaling setup, all 4 corners have sensors - it's a matter of pedal feedback and realizing that the 2007-2009 Ford Mustang GT500 anti-lock brake system (ABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) can run standalone

My son and I rewired everything (pending a whole other post) - but ended up with a 2nd OBD2 port to talk to the HCU
Attachment 179425
the trick here is to put a 120 Ohm resistor between the HS-CAN Hi and Lo wires - I have yet to test this, but from a few others (forums above) - it should work

new OBD2 pigtail and resistors, depinned, and shown with the new 40A/30A harness I created to feed the front and rear ABS channel pumps
Attachment 179430 Attachment 179429 Attachment 179428

here you can see the resistor soldered in between the HS CAN+/- lines, and the 2nd OBD2 port (on the left) that will allow me to talk with the ABS HCU as a standalone unit
Attachment 179426 Attachment 179427

next up was to FINALLY cut the dash center mount, I'm sure this will raise some comments, but it was a much simpler mod for the A/C unit install versus cutting more into the firewall and further restricting the wiper motor installation
this A/C installation is going to be a LOT of customization to the condenser to make it fit the engine bay with the coyote...

Attachment 179431

we're looking to get the last of the wiring in the cockpit done, and to setup the wiring for the heated seats I wanted to get the seats setup so we can wire diet the seat heater harness a bit

I had already installed the seatback heater pads, but was dragging my feet on tearing apart the seat portion, and like many have done before me with the Cobra Valley Seat Heaters, I unglued the seat, and placed the heating element
if you're like me, you hate tearing apart something new to modify it - but it has to be done!

gently pull back the leather from the pad without removing too much padding - take your time.
next peel the adhesive tape off and affix the pads
next, many cut into the seat pad a bit to bury the heater cable
I glued that cut to seal it up (nice pink duct tape eh?)
using the Weldwood adhesive, the small can worked beautifully for both seats - and yes, IT STINKS!
Attachment 179435Attachment 179434Attachment 179433Attachment 179432

oh but wait, there's more!

I have these other options for the seats - the Breeze seat mounts, ABS to replace the fiberboard, and some seat slides, YMMV if you use them or not but I figured it's an option that may be beneficial down the road

I ordered a set of Universal Bucket Seat Slider Tracks from Speedway, they lock on both sides with a wire pull between them
of course, they don't snap in like a lego set, you need to modify them - and took us about 6 hours to align to the Breeze mounts, and attach the seats

measuring out the breeze mounts, and wanted to share our trick to minimize damage when drilling the seats
use a scrap piece of aluminum sheet to place between the leather and the drill bit - worked GREAT! and stopped the bit a few times as it broke through the metal
Attachment 179437Attachment 179436 Attachment 179440

the ABS panel I got custom cut from Falken Design 2x Custom Cut: 10.125 X 14.875 to match the fiberboard dimensions from Breeze
it's not cheap at about $75, but I know this will be more flexible/sturdy than the fiberboard, the smooth self-tapping screws are low profile and shouldn't impede any seat comfort
Attachment 179439 Attachment 179438

next up was the fun stuff, get out the cutting wheel!
the posts on the seat slides need to be cut-off, and you can drill out - punch out the press-fit remainder...
Attachment 179441 Attachment 179442

we opted to put the slides in between the breeze lower mount and the angled mount, this way the seat will move forward, without moving upward
you can see how the setup will look when mounted to the bottom brackets - both sides are mounted with the adjuster on the right side

once this plate is mounted on the floor we can simply attach the seat with the slides with 4 nuts, moving the seat back/forth to gain access to the front & rear nuts
Attachment 179443 Attachment 179444

of course, modding the bottom mount means we have to mod the top mount that attaches to the seat itself
on the both the top and bottom sides, we left the front holes the same and drilled new rear mount holes

tolerances are pretty tight, but we used eight 1/2 inch 5/16-18 hex bolts with matching locknuts - these wont budge and really solid!

Attachment 179445 Attachment 179446 Attachment 179447 Attachment 179448

I agree on the 120 Ohm terminating resistor on any CAN backbone with unused connections.

Craig C

got a few more things behind us now...

when I assembled the seat sliders, both rails lock but there is a tension wire made of spring steel that was about 2 inches too long, no matter how hard you try, spring steel wants to keep it's shape, and trying to rebend is a nightmare and just won't hold
I had to get creative and used some prior knowledge using stainless wire and a turnbuckle setup - about $10 in parts from home depot

I honestly could have done this for $6 if I didn't get the turnbuckles, about $1 in 1/16 wire and the ferrules were $5.10 for a pack of 8
now they're the perfect length, and can be adjusted (if needed) over time, to keep the tension
Attachment 180190

next up was to setup the Moroso 63806 Coolant Expansion Tank for the coyote, as many of you have seen before on Edwardb's (and many others) builds
Getting the setup has a few requirements first:
1. need to mount the hood hinges, at least the passenger side to get the spacing correct, I setup the hood hinges as far inward as possible as a worst case scenario
2. mounting the intake will help as well, you have about 1/4-3/8" clearance when it's all setup
3. removing the radiator makes it easier to access the crossbar

Attachment 180193
the intake tube, in pieces doesn't look like much, but when assembled - it's a stout setup!

Instead of making two separate tabs (like on this page) https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...expansion-tank
I had some 1/8" x 2" aluminum bar, so I figured I'd make a bar setup and rivet to the crossbar frame

simply run the bar up the flange, mark the holes and cut to size...
Attachment 180194 Attachment 180195

next I had to space the reservoir side to side, making sure the passenger side hood mount wouldn't hit, and also the intake wouldn't rub either
once I had this placement, I was able to bend the mount to the correct angle, I opted to put in 1/4-20 rivnuts with button head bolts

Attachment 180196 Attachment 180197 Attachment 180198

once all aligned and drilled, I could mount the reservoir in the engine bay

Attachment 180199 Attachment 180200 Attachment 180201

overall, feels pretty good to get this in place, still plenty to do, and space is at a super premium now!

Hey Todd! Nice work on the expansion tank. You're likely already aware of this if you've seen Edwardb's build thread but I'll mention it anyway... that expansion tank gets kinda heavy when full and definitely needs something for that lower tab on the underside of the tank to sit on. The bracket on the flange of the expansion tank is not enough, by itself, to support the tank when full. Lot's of folks have come up with many different ways to skin that cat. If you're using the Breeze radiator fan shroud, that's a convenient place to attach a support to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnK

Hey Todd! Nice work on the expansion tank. You're likely already aware of this if you've seen Edwardb's build thread but I'll mention it anyway... that expansion tank gets kinda heavy when full and definitely needs something for that lower tab on the underside of the tank to sit on. The bracket on the flange of the expansion tank is not enough, by itself, to support the tank when full. Lot's of folks have come up with many different ways to skin that cat. If you're using the Breeze radiator fan shroud, that's a convenient place to attach a support to.

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agreed, I plan on adding one more tab on the bottom to the breeze mount as well, it's a lot of trial-and-error to get everything to fit in the engine bay at this point :)

hooked up the brake booster to the coyote tonight, couldn't find a Quick-Loc connector that was 1/2" inlet and 3/8" barb, so I cobbled together a few parts

Dorman 46017 PCV End Assembly which connects to the vacuum port on the Gen3 Coyote intake port
Dorman 800-011 Fuel Line Rep Kit 3/8 Union, this connects the 90-degree assembly (above) to the hose from the Whitby brake booster

Attachment 180276 Attachment 180277

and yes, before you ask - my steering shaft is on the motor because I haven't mounted the driver header yet ;)

Next up before buttoning up the footbox was to place the Breeze Dead Pedal
a little confusing at first until you get things setup, it's a REALLY stout setup and I placed the dead pedal tad behind the clutch pedal to give an inch or so of stretch when resting
this is personal preference, you may do yours higher or lower

without the side panel, it's a bit of - hmm, how does this work? so we cleco'ed the panel in place
Attachment 180283 Attachment 180284

here you can see two bolts installed, we mounted the dead pedal pretty much up to the corner of the footbox extension, really nice scuff pad on the pedal too!
Attachment 180285 Attachment 180286

lastly, you can see the 2 other bolts and cross-brace which is riveted to the outer footbox, and the brace gets riveted back on the 2" rail as well - really sturdy!
I rounded the edge a bit when I cut off the length of the cross-brace, we figured it would hopefully save a gash in the leg during the paint prep session :)
Attachment 180288 Attachment 180287

may be the angle, but I think your overflow tank is going to be way too high as it sits. look at where the hood hinges are. you will have only slight clearance above this as the nose of the body tapers down a bit going forward.

edit: just looked at the side view. you might be ok looking at the location of the top of your air snorkel. carry on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by egchewy79

may be the angle, but I think your overflow tank is going to be way too high as it sits. look at where the hood hinges are. you will have only slight clearance above this as the nose of the body tapers down a bit going forward.

edit: just looked at the side view. you might be ok looking at the location of the top of your air snorkel. carry on.

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thanks for the check chewy :) I was skeptical as well, but reading through lots of posts, I kept the mounting tab at the same level as the bottom of the cross-bar
this seems to keep the tank low enough :)

Crazy how tight everything is in the engine bay !

It's good there. I mounted mine the same way and it fits just fine under the hood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1630460566

Looking great Todd!!! Can't wait to ride with you this Summer

finally got some time on the car today...

buttoned up the engine sensors (oil pressure, oil temp and water temp)

Got creative here to minimize some wiring runs as the Coyote Moroso #20570 oil pan has 3 holes, 1 for draining at the rear, and two on either side, the temp sender for the oil temp fits the passenger side bung, but we didn't want to run a 2 1/2 foot longer wire under the engine, so I opted to get an adapter for the driver's side to keep the wiring all together.

I had to use a GlowShift M20 x 1.5 Male to 1/8-27 NPT Female Gauge Sensor Sender Thread Adapter Reducer and assemble the oil temp sender into this adapter - fits perfectly into the oil pan!
Since these wires get awfully close to the driver side header, I opted for a 3/4" Titanium Express Heat Sleeve, it fits perfectly over the bundle and even matches the powdercoat! :)

Attachment 181149 Attachment 181150 Attachment 181151


Next up was to drill the PCV port on the intake, used a step bit to work our way up, but ended up just doing a 3/4" hole in the end as the grommet and part fit really snug at 3/4"
This is needed in CA, even registering as a 1965 vehicle, you need the PCV routing back into the intake

JohnK was super nice and shipped me a few feet of PCV 1/2" hose, it fits perfectly! Gosh I need to get the buffer out now!

Attachment 181152 Attachment 181153 Attachment 181154

next up we fitted the power steering lines...

this is a bit tricky since we have the Breeze battery box in the engine bay AND the ABS unit next to the battery... Not sure how you guys route your PS lines with the battery there, but we opted to put the high-pressure line between the battery and HCU instead of coming over and through the X

a few rivets and it's in there solid!

Attachment 181155 Attachment 181156

lastly, started running some of the heater hose to the Moroso overflow tank...

used the Parts # list from Edwardb's build

CL3Z-8260-A or KM-5114 (upper hose - still need to connect)
BMS-104 Lower hose kit for Coyote in Roadster (need to figure out how this will connect!)

FR3Z-8075-C – Hose from tank top/front to radiator, including one-way check valve, mounted on the tank, need to refit the radiator

DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?

FR3Z-8276-B - Hose from the overflow tank top/rear to the water neck near the throttle body. Not sure if I like how it fits on top of the intake tube...

Attachment 181157

it's really insane how tight this engine bay is getting... and we're not done yet! still have to route heater hoses, A/C drier, Thermotron valve and A/C lines! oh and mount the A/C unit in the firewall...

last item we attempted was to get the Forte clutch slave connected - we finally got the 40" line as the 24" one wasn't going to match up... it was Mike's mistake from the shipment early on, so he promptly shipped the correct line.

when trimming the slave pushrod, I didn't grok the depth, cut it once, but thought it was still too long so cut it a 2nd time - alas, too short!
Ran to ACE Hardware before they closed to get a 4" 5/16-24 bolt and will try again tomorrow :)

Attachment 181158

only had to use a pair of washers to mount the slave to the Forte mount with the Coyote/TKX setup
just to note, the pushrod is just a 5/16-24 bolt with the head cut off and ground the edges smooth - should be a simple enough fix then I can bleed the clutch!

Nicely done! The titanium heat sleeve definitely looks better than foil tape I put on mine!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?

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Mine rides pretty high too. It shows a few threads at the bottom. No issues tho!
Attachment 181159

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

Next up was to drill the PCV port on the intake, used a step bit to work our way up, but ended up just doing a 3/4" hole in the end as the grommet and part fit really snug at 3/4"
This is needed in CA, even registering as a 1965 vehicle, you need the PCV routing back into the intake

JohnK was super nice and shipped me a few feet of PCV 1/2" hose, it fits perfectly! Gosh I need to get the buffer out now!

Attachment 181152 Attachment 181153 Attachment 181154

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Hey, that's looking really nice! I hear you on needing to get the buffer out. I'll leave that for whenever I get the car ready for a show sometime down the road.

One small comment on the PCV connection into the elbow. I see what you're trying to do but I think you have that fitting backward. The barbed end is supposed to go into the grommet and the other end is meant to receive a connector on the PCV hose like the one on the engine end of the hose. It should look like this...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1677011078

The barbed end of that fitting was a little loose in the grommet on mine, but several wraps of electrical tape on the barbs made for a really nice, tight fit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnK

Hey, that's looking really nice! I hear you on needing to get the buffer out. I'll leave that for whenever I get the car ready for a show sometime down the road.

One small comment on the PCV connection into the elbow. I see what you're trying to do but I think you have that fitting backward. The barbed end is supposed to go into the grommet and the other end is meant to receive a connector on the PCV hose like the one on the engine end of the hose. It should look like this...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1677011078

The barbed end of that fitting was a little loose in the grommet on mine, but several wraps of electrical tape on the barbs made for a really night, tight fit.

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ah! that makes sense!! LOL it's really snug fitting, I guess i need to find an adapter for the plug - that would be slick! any recommendations?

In a couple of photos in your post here it looks like you have the stock DS PCV hose but it was too short to reach. I just cut the plastic tubing off of my stock hose and re-used the two end fittings with the Gates tubing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

finally got some time on the car today...

lastly, started running some of the heater hose to the Moroso overflow tank...

DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap, mine seems to 'ride high' on the tank, should it mount flush?

[COLOR=#000000]FR3Z-8276-B - Hose from the overflow tank top/rear to the water neck near the throttle body. Not sure if I like how it fits on top of the intake tube...

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Hi Todd. Glad you were able to get some garage time in recently. It's fun to watch your build progressing.

Radiator cap: as another point of reference, my stock cap sits 1 1/8" above the top of the Moroso tank.

I routed the top hose from the tank underneath the fresh air intake tube instead of over the top. Just another option that might work for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnK

In a couple of photos in your post here it looks like you have the stock DS PCV hose but it was too short to reach. I just cut the plastic tubing off of my stock hose and re-used the two end fittings with the Gates tubing.

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yup that was before I realized I needed that 1/2" hose that you sent to me, I don't think any of it is documented in the Coyote FFR guide because they use their own intake bend with a port, I liked the look of the Spectre setup more

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Hi Todd. Glad you were able to get some garage time in recently. It's fun to watch your build progressing.
Radiator cap: as another point of reference, my stock cap sits 1 1/8" above the top of the Moroso tank.
I routed the top hose from the tank underneath the fresh air intake tube instead of over the top. Just another option that might work for you.

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Thanks! I'll give that a shot, it seems to be a pretty specific fit - so it's nice to see some of the factory parts align well with the aftermarket tank!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

yup that was before I realized I needed that 1/2" hose that you sent to me,

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Do you still have that original hose? If so, just cut the plastic hose off the fitting carefully with an x-acto knife and re-use the fitting. If not, I think the correct Ford P/N is 7T4Z9E499D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnK

Do you still have that original hose? If so, just cut the plastic hose off the fitting carefully with an x-acto knife and re-use the fitting. If not, I think the correct Ford P/N is 7T4Z9E499D

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yep I have the fitting, i'll give it a go tonight

Thanks!

edit: gave it a shot, but my end connector is a 45-degree angle, so I'll order the straight one like you listed, too much strain with the 45

update! ordered the straight PCV fitting, still waiting on that!

seems like a lot of little things getting done!

finally got the new rod installed for the Forte's slave cylinder, figured out the logistics (we hope!) only had to trim about 1/4" off the rod and seems to get full throw
there's about 1/8" of play (e.g. no pressure on the clutch when fully engaged

it was quite a surprise bleeding that slave cylinder, I felt like a glazed donut for a few minutes LOL

next up was to finally button up the driver footbox (leaving the top open for now) - I figured may as well put in some carpet so I don't have to contort my body later
also, instead of spray painting black on your floor/walls, use gaffer's tape - it worked out PERFECTLY!

Gaffers Tape (2-Roll Pack) - 2” W x 30 Yards Per Roll (180 ft)


this is the 20oz bass boat carpet, and used the FFR carpet as a template, came out pretty nice!
Attachment 181456 Attachment 181455 Attachment 181454 Attachment 181453

will leave the floor and inner wall for post body markup

Now the part we've been all waiting for... FINALLY getting the driver side header installed... it initially started out poorly, like REALLY poorly! The bolts didn't seem to thread correctly... ugh!
my son said 'Dad, let's just tap them all' - and we spent the next 30 minutes tapping the holes, they were HORRIBLE! Unsure what happened at the Ford Factory with this engine, but we had 3 holes on the passenger side and 5 (maybe 6) on the drivers side that were horribly off or cross threaded...

Once tapped, the bolts went in like butter - I think we had the driver header installed in about 10 minutes - so anyone that is doing this, I HIGHLY suggest running a tap through your header holes... it made an amazing difference!!
Attachment 181458 Attachment 181457 Attachment 181558
we used our fingers to run all but 1 bolt to the header plate, then a regular sized 7/16ths socket, a long 7/16ths socket, a 7/16's ratchet/open end wrench combo got the bolts tightened up
I never thought I'd say it, but with my son topside, and me under the car, the driver header was easy peasy!

next up, wiper motor bracket installation - we did some serious eyeballing and got this lined up, and drilled into the FFMetal Firewall Forward - removed it for now until we get the A/C / Heater installed

Attachment 181459

Lastly, my son Ryan has been dying to tear apart the A/C unit, the unit itself is deeper than the regular heater and conflicts in the stock setup.

we chose to remove the fan and flip it upside down, and he's flattening the side to mount the fan - this should keep the whole unit under the hoodline
first we moved some of the coyote wire harness (the harness attached to the engine) downward, to give us the much needed space... by moving this bundle down, we gained about 2 more inches of space!
Attachment 181460
normally that K08 labelled bundle is on top of the CMCV lockout, what a huge difference!!

And here's Ryan, dremelling away at the A/C unit while my heart skips a few beats... love this guy and his patience and fervor !!

Attachment 181462 Attachment 181461

The A/C has a long way to go, but we did a LOT today! celebrated a long day with some burgers and brews!
Attachment 181463

Looking great guys! Can't wait to hear her run!

Awesome, one step closer! We will all be sweating and envious when you turn on your A/C! Are you running adjustable ball flange headers? or are those fixed? I have been following Johnk (Aka Greek guys garage) build and he had some header issues with his Coyote. Not sure if you were aware.

Todd, which headers are those? I had the GP headers with catalytic converters, as FFR didn't offer headers with cats when I placed my order. Yours look similar to mine but hard to say for sure. A lot of header and side pipe fitment issues comes down to driveline alignment and body position, so just because I had issues doesn't mean you will too but what I will say is to make sure you spend some time test fitting side pipes and make sure you get everything sorted out before final bodywork and paint so you can avoid the heartache I'm going through now. In case you haven't seen it, you can read about my issues here , here and here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnK

Todd, which headers are those? I had the GP headers with catalytic converters, as FFR didn't offer headers with cats when I placed my order. Yours look similar to mine but hard to say for sure. A lot of header and side pipe fitment issues comes down to driveline alignment and body position, so just because I had issues doesn't mean you will too but what I will say is to make sure you spend some time test fitting side pipes and make sure you get everything sorted out before final bodywork and paint so you can avoid the heartache I'm going through now. In case you haven't seen it, you can read about my issues here , here and here.

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they are the FFR catalytic headers, they do look very similar to your GP headers, will definitely be doing a lot of fitting, and Ken will be doing the bodywork
I intend to have the sidepipes on before taking up to him so all work can be done to ensure good alignment

getting a little more done...
Attachment 181910
started the A/C condenser layout, the directions (for the coupe) state to mount the condenser at the bottom edge of the radiator... of course the radiator in the Coupe is mounted top forward (opposite of the roadster)
Attachment 181913
assuming the same placement in front of the radiator it will stick out a bit more ~1.5" - my concern is the Everson radiator shroud, which I may have to hack a bit (but it's already powdercoated)
thinking that I'll switch from the stainless mesh to a nomex cover now due to the double mounted condenser/radiator combo, jury still out on that :)

I have a TON of extra A/C line fittings, need to really dial in the angles at this point. Space is at an ultra premium now and really struggling with mount points for the heater valve.. the last place I can logically mount it is on the firewall

Attachment 181911
big concern there is with all the hoses, will I be able to adjust fuel pressure?

also here's a pic of the evaporator/HVAC - we still need determine how we're going to cap the front and route the hoses, but at this point if we can come off the sides (not as efficient) it will have a full glovebox
Attachment 181912

ended up having to flip the install on the condenser to fit the roadster setup, not too bad... still need to get a #8 90-degree fitting for the top bung on the condenser

Attachment 182165

also, removed the vacuum port from the FPR and replaced with the Aeromotive 15662 Breather since the vacuum won't be needed with the LUND tune.
saved a 'little' bit of space in the engine bay (LOL)

Attachment 182166

my son Ryan dieted the passenger side and extended the driver side O2 wiring harnesses, much cleaner setup now (we left the actual O2 bung harness alone, just modified the feed lines to the O2 harness

then the fun part of mounting the lower mount on the Moroso overflow tank.. we re-used a portion of the Heater Valve mount (which is stainless) to make a 2 piece mount, 1 part mounted to the tank, and the other part mounted to the Breeze Radiator shroud
we were amazed at how the 3rd mount really makes this part unmovable - definitely recommended!

Attachment 182167 Attachment 182168

we used a simple 10-24 bolt with locknut to hold the tank to the mount, riveted the bottom mount to the Breeze radiator shroud and then a 10-24 rivnut/bolt to hold both mounts together - took a lot of trial and error but it's SOLID!

finalized the wiring at the front of the car, got the fan wired up, all grounds, and ran a starter line from the battery (not hooked up yet)

got the Boig Cool Tube setup for the Coyote situated in the engine bay. Since the ABS setup in the way, we can't route under the X in the chassis, so we have to go over the X
modified the rubber a bit and worked like a champ with a cushion clamp to keep it solid on the frame.

Attachment 182555 Attachment 182556


did the 'notch' in the Coyote top hose to get it clocked a little higher
some dremelling makes quick work of it, this helped the hose to rise up about an inch above the power steering belt
Attachment 182551

if anyone has said that the coyote is really stuffed in the engine bay, they aren't kidding
all the hoses up front really make me wonder how fun it will be someday to change the battery LOL

here's the lower hose, and upper hose connected
Attachment 182564

next, let's add the overflow tank and get the lower hose connected, and all 3 mounts for the tank
Attachment 182563

next, run the front hose (shortened a bit to fit the size) to the radiator spout
Attachment 182562 Attachment 182568 Attachment 182569

and finally with the intake installed, we clocked the intake a bit to account for the heat shield which was recommended by Lund Tuning to minimize low speed air fluctuation for the MAF sensor
Attachment 182561

once I get the heater valve installed and hoses run, we're pretty much ready to add fluids!

Looking good and you are catching up with me! LOL

last night was a huge step forward, and pretty nerve racking!

Using the Type-65 Coupe A/C kit was a change we made some time back, unsure how usable it will be
We've had convertibles before and sometimes just some cool air really helps the trip - even if it's just hitting you and going right out the top

In our setup, we decided to place the A/C unit where the usual Roadster heater would go, this induced several mind-bending items that required a TON of modification
This ended up being way more than I would want to do but we were already down the rabbit hole

Here's a list of changes that we had to make to get this to work on the roadster

• mount the condenser 'inverted' as compared to the coupe, not a big issue, but clearance is tight
• the lower fitting for the condenser provided is a 45-degree and it's too wide so had to purchase a 90-degree, Dan Golub at FFR was super helpful
• new part: Vintage Air 35832-VUG Beadlock O-Ring Fitting 90 Degree No 8
• 
  
  • Attachment 182961
  
  
• locating the drier was interesting considering that the space in the engine bay is really tight
  
  • we think it's low enough to clear the hood struts, time will tell, may wait to fit the hoses post body fit but prior to paint
  • Attachment 182962
  
  
• fitting the evaporator of course required the hole to be cut in the FFMetal Firewall Forward, in between the FPR and wiper motor
• Attachment 182957
• We also ran into issues of the depth of the A/C unit - it's a few inches longer, and during our engine install one of the guys recommended pulling the motor and flipping it
  
  • flipping the motor on the unit helped, but still had clearance issues - this is where we cut the angled part of ABS on the engine side of the unit to make it a flat mount
  • Attachment 182960 Attachment 182959 Attachment 182958
  
  
• next, we had to build a plate to mount the flipped motor, just a simple box shape and rivets and we were able to relocate the motor
• Attachment 182963

next, we had to modify the outputs, the FFR heater has side vents and the HVAC Sirocco Boreal unit has front ports

here's a pic of the heater vs the HVAC setup
Attachment 183007

fortunately my son is into 3D printing and has an option to print ABS, we wouldn't have done this without this capability - very fortunate to have his skill and knowledge

in order to change the flow (while not optimal) we blocked the front ports and had to create side ports
first step was to cut out the ports leaving just the open space
Attachment 182998

then he ABS printed fillers, and we then epoxied them in place
Attachment 183000 Attachment 182999

we then realized that our prior mount for the Wilwood EPB unit would block the HVAC hoses behind the dash, so we relocated the unit to under the HVAC unit and now that we had the lower dash mount we could connect to that
Attachment 183001

my son ABS printed some side ports that we would connect to the sides of the unit, they're 2.5" round and about .75" deep
Attachment 183005 Attachment 183004

Next, the scary part... we had to use a hole saw and cut into the sides of the unit.
We couldn't use the drill bit chuck since he internal components are so close to the sides, we created a template with some board to keep the saw from jumping
Attachment 183006

here's how the drill out worked - used a template part (non-ABS) for fitting, you can see in the 2nd pic how close the components are inside the case

Attachment 182994 Attachment 182992 Attachment 182993 Attachment 182991

we have been fortunate enough to have an HVAC unit on loan from Ken Pike so we could use as a template for all this work - you can see the original unit (Top) vs our modified version (bottom)

Attachment 182997 Attachment 182996 Attachment 182995

so the air that would normally go straight out the condenser, will now go forward, and push out the sides - there's about a 1.5-2" gap between the coils and the front of the box

we're hoping for a laminar flow since the vanes are 3/4 of the box and then can pressure push the air to the sides, there may be some turbulence, but the original box shape has space on the sides and front as well

Attachment 183012