Main Power, Gen 3 Coyote Progress
It’s been a while, but I’m finally back. We were in Oregon and Idaho visiting family for three weeks. Great seeing everyone and had an awesome time. But good to be back home, like always. We ran into snow in Minneapolis on the flights home, and it caught up with Michigan the next day. The ground has been white since. I guess that means driving season is officially over. Always a little sad. But back to the build after catching up with home duties for several days.
Main focus of the last several days has been to finish the main power wiring. Obviously it needs to get done, but also to wrap up the engine compartment so the Coyote can go in for good. I used the same main power scheme as on #8674 and similar to #7750, just without the Coyote. I used the Breeze front battery mounts in the Roadsters. For the Coupe, the front mount location is standard. I get a lot of questions about this, so here is the scheme I use:
- +12V main power #2 gauge cable from battery positive to post on Ron Francis MS-1 master disconnect accessible from inside the cockpit.
- On the same post (+12V, unswitched), #4 gauge cable to the Coyote 250 amp fuse (provided in controls pack) and then to the front post on the Coyote PDB.
- On the other side of the master disconnect (+12V, switched), #4 gauge cable back to the large post on the starter solenoid.
- Also on the switched side is a cable to a Blue Sea Systems #2307 150A bus bar in the cockpit. The Ron Francis harness power connections will be made there.
- Main ground #2 gauge cable from battery negative to spot on the frame. Powder coat removed under the lug and attached with 3/8-16 flange head screw into tapped hole.
- Also stacked at this frame ground location are the (1) main ground from the Coyote PDB, and (2) #4 gauge ground wire to engine. I’ll add a second engine ground from one of the starter bolts to another location on the frame, probably near the motor mount. I’ve always done two engine grounds, and will on this build as well.
This wiring approach gives full time power to the Coyote PDB, as outlined in the Ford Performance instructions, and switches the Ron Francis harness. With the switch off, the Coyote won't start since there would be no ignition sense voltage to the Coyote pigtail and also no battery voltage to the starter. Additionally (although I haven't tried it) the Coyote should stop if the switch were turned off since again the ignition sense voltage would be cut off. I know many install a master disconnect. But also many don't. I can see it either way. But this arrangement works for me to have a switch plus a gathering point for the various main power connections.
I used #2 cable from West Marine. It’s sold by the foot. Not cheap, but high quality marine grade. The conductors are small diameter, so it’s pretty flexible similar to welding cable. The kit comes with #4 battery cable, which is probably adequate. But many have upgraded to #2 (or larger...) and it's not a bad idea. I've never had a starting issue, hot or cold. I used Fusion battery terminals, which have pre-measured solder and flux and I like how they work. The rest of the #2 and #4 lugs are heavy duty crimp style. The terminals, HD lugs, and shrink sleeving are all from DelCity.net. The smaller gauge terminals are from West Marine. They have a nice selection. I used regular convolute and then spiral wrapped with non-adhesive vinyl harness tape. Same treatment Ford uses on the Coyote harness. Looks a little better than the plain convolute, is easier to keep clean, and perhaps provides a little more protection.
I mentioned this is my last build, but will here again. Several years ago another forum member recommended a hydraulic crimper for this heavy duty cable work. Part number YQK70. It’s a common tool available from a number of sources. I got mine off eBay, but they're available elsewhere. Typically less than $40, which seems a little crazy. I wouldn’t call it Snap-On quality. But does the job very well. I found their recommendations for die sizes and specific AWG cable to be off. But then maybe that was because I was using mostly heavy duty lugs. But a little experimentation finds the right size to use. Comes with plenty of dies and they’re easy to change. Looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1542472774
Pictures of the installation. Battery connections to power harness through engine compartment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1542472755
Down the frame rail. I measured the starter connection locations and lengths during the mockup, duplicated here. The smaller wire is the blue start wire from the Coyote controls pack. I took enough measurements and pictures during mockup to know everything here easily clears.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1542472749
Firewall with Coyote PDB and related. Main power wires go to master disconnect behind this center panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1542472737
Master disconnect behind the center panel viewed from inside cockpit with top transmission tunnel piece removed. Note I will have both this upper and lower tunnel piece removable. Also visible here is the connection to the bus bar for power connection to the RF harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1542472720
Another view of the master disconnect inside the cockpit on the passenger side. Looked at a lot of potential locations for the switch and ended up here. Just too much congestion on the driver’s side, plus the cables routed the best here. It will end up just slightly tucked under the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1542472764
That’s it for wiring in the engine compartment. I’m going to get the hydraulic line for the clutch installed, and then then everything will be ready to drop the engine in.
Main Power, Gen 3 Coyote Progress (continued)
Also this week I worked on the famous oil pan pickup tube for the Gen 3 Coyote. First up was to get the proper main bearing cap bolt with stud, not installed on the Gen 3 as discussed previously. Was able to get what I needed. The part numbers are: BR3Z-6345-A stud, N806180-S2 spacer, and N605904-S bolt. These are the parts next to the main bearing cap bolt they replace:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1542472814
Then very carefully torqued the new bolt into position. Per Ford specs, 50 ft-lbs, then 90 degrees. Used my shiny new digital angle gauge, pictured previously. But would have been pretty simple without in this case. Used some blue Loctite on the spacer. Now it looks like a Gen 2 Coyote in that location. :p
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1542472821
So finally it was time to try to marry the Moroso pickup with the Modular Motorsports oil pump connector. Discussed at length earlier, so won’t go into detail again. Had plenty of time to think about this while I was gone. Last night I fabricated a connector from a piece of 4130 steel round tube, McMaster part number 89955K969. Then I tapped four 1/4-20 locations on each end for set screws. After a lot of studying, measuring, (and soul searching…) took the hacksaw to the Moroso and Modular Motorsports parts and joined them with the connector. Success! It lines up perfectly and seats properly into the oil pump. Clears the pan and windage tray just fine. Checked the pickup depth in the pan with some plumber’s putty, and all good. I have the set screws pretty tight, so nothing should move when I take it to my buddy for welding. Once welded, will take out the set screws and have him weld those shut too. I think this little saga is about over. I hope so. Once this is done, the engine will come off the stand and I’ll get the whole thing assembled. Flywheel, clutch, bell, HRB and trans. Then into the chassis.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1542472828
One last item to share. On a beautiful fall day in early October (already seems like a long time ago) took #8674 out for some pictures, including on the street in our neighborhood just down from our place. Got some nice shots, so submitted one of them for the Picture of the Month (POM). Was pleased and surprised to win the October POM contest. Cool! And the $250 Factory Five gift certificate wasn’t bad either. Wasn’t planning to, but took the opportunity to splurge on the billet door handles they offer, replacing the nearly identical plastic ones provided in the kit. Also updated some of my Factory Five swag. Sweatshirt, hat, etc. These are going to look nice in the Coupe. The handles that is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1542472868
Gen 3 Coyote Final Assembly
Very productive last couple of days getting the Gen 3 Coyote assembled and ready to put into the chassis. Just a couple more details to wrap up on both. Then with a little help hope to get installed. A few little challenges along the way, but I think it’s good to go.
First up was the oil pan pickup tube. That chapter is now officially closed. Had the grafted together pickup tube welded. Still lined up perfectly. I cleaned up the rubber gasket and all mating surfaces and installed using some Permatex Ultra Black at the oil pump inlet. Probably not necessary but made me feel better. That plus how the windage tray engages one side, as shown previously, I’m confident it's sealed and won’t come out. Picture of the now completed pickup tube installed, and the other picture I’ve been waiting for. The Moroso pan bolted down for the final time.
Update: A proper Gen 3 pickup is now available from Moroso. No longer necessary to make a custom pickup as shown here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1542890415
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1542890425
Next up I decided to tackle the Speedhut water temp and oil pressure sending units. Couple of bumps, but now complete. First the easy one. The water temp sender goes into a 3/4-inch NPT fitting in the block by the oil filter. Same as before. The FF Coyote installation kit includes an adapter. The instructions say to thread the 1/2-inch NPT adapter that comes with the gauges into this adapter. Unfortunately, the adapter included with the gauges is 3/8-inch NPT. Had this exact issue with #8674. So ordered up the same Edelmann 210926 3/4-inch NPT to 3/8-inch NPT adapter used on #8674, and installed the sender. For the oil pressure sender, the Gen 3 Coyote has some differences from previous Coyotes. I pointed this out earlier. There are two wired devices by the oil filter, not just the single oil pressure sender. Similar as it turns out to what’s on the F-150 version of the Coyote. Seen here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1542890434
Through my contact at Ford, I was able to find out that “A” is a traditional oil pressure sender. “B” is an oil control valve that decreases oil pressure at low rpm to promote fuel economy. Interesting because some of the reviews I’ve read about the Gen 3 Coyote people who’ve had previous Coyotes have commented that the oil pressure reads lower than before. Clearly Ford is looking for every possible way to increase economy. But the rest of the story is my Ford contact confirmed that neither are used by the crate motor control pack PCM program. Also upon further review I found the inlet on the oil pressure sender is a metric O-ring fitting and I was unable to find any kind of adapter to fit it. So took the bull by the horns and removed the oil filter/sender assembly from the engine (4 bolts and has an O-ring gasket, so easy) and tapped the hole to 1/4-inch NPT. No way I was going to drill and tap the hole with the piece still on the engine. Would have been nearly impossible to keep chips and such out of there. With the hole tapped, used the gauge package provided 1/4-inch NPT adapter, installed the Speedhut oil pressure sender, and it’s done. I’m leaving the oil control valve in place, even though it doesn’t do anything. Doesn’t hurt a thing and saves finding something to plug the hole. Tied the other unused lead out of the way.
Update March 2020: Information above is not correct. The OE oil pressure sender is required for the Gen 3 Coyote. Discussed later in the build thread.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1542890481
With that done, time to wrap up the final driveline pieces to the engine. I had previously installed the M-7600-C pilot bearing. Set the QuickTime block plate in place, and bolted on the M-6375-M50 billet steel flywheel using a M-6379-C bolt kit. The bolts are torqued to 177 in-lbs then turned another 60 degrees in a star pattern. Sounds light, but at 60 degrees very tight. Note the addition of the pilot bearing and flywheel are necessary because the Gen 3 Coyote has the unusable (for me anyway) dual mass flywheel and no pilot bearing in the end of the crank, as discussed several times already. Previous Coyotes had a nodular flywheel, which seems to work fine. This billet steel version is 9 pounds lighter and is SFI certified. Used the same one on #8674. Nice piece.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1542890443
No pictures, but next up I installed the Quicktime RM-8080 bell housing and dial indicated the opening. Because of the way the two indexing dowels on a Coyote bell housing have mounting bolts through the center, the traditional methods of adjusting with offset dowels is challenging. But still good practice to take this step and confirm where you’re at. Tremec apparently specifically says their warranty doesn’t apply unless the bell housing is indexed and in spec. Interesting. Anyway, initial measurements weren’t great. Borderline to spec and certainly not my experience with previous QuickTime bell housings. Took it back apart trying to talk myself into it being close enough. Upon disassembly, I noticed how a foil/plastic heat shield around the crank sensor was being trapped between the block plate/bell and the block. There are several of these on the Gen 3 Coyote, including the two oil sensor pieces discussed previously. Also different than before. Looking further at the available clearance and the thickness of the shield, looked like this could be a problem. Removed the heat shield, bolted everything back together, and dial indicated the opening again. Surprise! Within .002 to .003 all around. Well within spec and similar to what I’ve seen before. This picture shows the shield removed next to where it was. Obviously, there’s a reason Ford added those. But haven’t used them before so leaving them off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1542890454
Gen 3 Coyote Final Assembly (continued)
Next up was the clutch. Using the same M-7560-T46 clutch as #8674. It’s actually a dual friction Centerforce part, sold by Ford Performance. It chattered a bit in the first couple hundred miles in #8674 (not unusual) but once broken in I’ve been real happy with it. Nice quality piece. Installed with a M-6397-B46 bolt and dowel kit. The bolts are torqued to 46 ft-lbs then turned another 60 degrees in a star pattern. Sounds a little heavy, compared to the flywheel, but they turned the full 60 degrees without feeling like I was forcing anything. Here’s the clutch installed, also showing a stop piece I made instead of trying to hold the front crankshaft bolt like I’ve done before. Also used it when torqueing the flywheel using one of the pressure plate bolt holes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1542890465
Then on with the bell housing. Used some blue Loctite and torqued to 50 ft/lbs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1542890472
As mentioned before, using a Tilton 60-6104 Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB) instead of the traditional clutch arm and Ford throw-out bearing. First time for me on this, so we’ll see how it works and holds up. The installation is pretty simple. Just followed the directions. The inside sleeve is threaded and you set to end up 1/8-inch away from the clutch pressure plate fingers when fully retracted. In use, it will move out against the fingers and according to the instructions is self-adjusting. Similar to a disk brake caliper. The HRB includes an anti-rotation pin that goes into a threaded hole already in the T-56. I also removed the installed clutch arm pivot. But I'll save it. I’m using the HRB along with a Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC in the pedal box. That’s the size recommended by Tilton for this installation. The instructions are also very insistent that it have a pedal stop. So I’ll deal with that when it’s installed, bled, and checked out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1542890488
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1542890496
Then on the with T-56, which once lined up slid right into place. Can’t tell too much yet, but with the trans in gear the output yoke turns without any unusual drag or noises. I guess that’s good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1542890511
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1542890503
That's a chunk right there. My body feels it from dragging everything around for a day or two. Next step, into the chassis. But first some turkey and football, and some time spent being thankful which I truly am. For so many things. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Gen 3 Coyote Engine Cover Plus
With the engine/trans installed in the chassis, working through all the details. It’s been good to bolt stuff in for the last time. At least I hope so. Shifter put back on the transmission. Driveshaft and driveshaft loop installed. Filled the engine oil with the oil drained out of the engine when received. Filled to the line on the dipstick, which surprised me. But found the oil capacity on the 2018 Mustang GT is 10 quarts versus the previous 8 quarts. So, makes sense. Filled the T-56 with 4 quarts of DEXRON-III per the Tremec instructions. Different than previous T-5 and TKO experience. Tremec recently released their own transmission fluid -- TREMEC HP-MTF High Performance Transmission Fluid – that is supposed to be good stuff and usable for all their transmission. But at $20+ per quart, stuck with the gallon jug of Valvoline DEXRON-III. $14 at Wallyworld. Works for me. Also installed two 4-gauge engine grounds. One from the battery chassis ground location to the block under one of the motor mount bolts. Another from under one of the starter bolts to the chassis. With those in place, and oil in the engine, put +12V on the starter solenoid and very briefly bumped the starter a couple times. Good news, it works. Turns the engine over. No grinding or clashing sounds.
The one thing I was anxious about was getting the Tilton HRB plumbed, bled and working. It’s done and I’m happy to report seems to be working exactly as it’s supposed to. Tilton makes multiple references in their instructions about not pushing the HRB beyond its rated throw (.70 inch) and to install a clutch pedal stop to make sure. I checked very carefully and found that with the clutch pedal hard against the back wall of the footbox, with my setup I'm 1/8 to 3/16-inch less than that. So, no point in adding an additional stop. With the pedal full down, the clutch is completely disengaged. I can easily spin the transmission output yoke with the trans in gear. I can feel it engaging and dragging as the pedal is slowly released and then full grab. Short of driving, I’m confident it’s working correctly. Hard to say about the effort. I went back and forth between #8674 with the Forte hydraulic slave setup and the exact clutch and then the new Tilton setup in the Coupe. I would say the Tilton setup is “maybe” a bit lighter. But it’s not night and day. Both work really well, so no complaints. I’m happy with how easy it was to set up and it’s quite a bit cheaper. Time will tell how it works in the real world and holds up.
This picture shows the now completed driver’s side foobox, including all the RF and Coyote wiring. Even though it's a lot in a small space, I think it turned out pretty well. For the HRB plumbing, I used a 24-inch PTFE-lined stainless hose with a 90-degree end out of the Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC. You can see the hose going across the top of the footbox, out the same hole as the rear brake line and rear harness, and then attaches to the hose out of the bell housing from the HRB. I tie-wrapped the bleed hose to the supply hose. To bleed, I’ll clip the tie-wraps and bleed from underneath. Very straightforward.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1543447329
So today I played around with the Gen 3 engine cover and I think have decided how this is going to go. Most don’t care for the new cover. Outside of the Mustang, where it’s designed to fit into the available space, it does look a little “different.” The bigger issue is that with the added complexity of the Direct Injection (DI) in the Gen 3, Ford has clearly given up with the previously used coil covers. Now the only covering for the top of the heads is this wide, flat cover.
To recap, here’s the uncovered engine as it sits today:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1543447300
Here with the stock unmodified cover added. Note this is for reference only. I’ve already determined it won’t fit under the Coupe cowl. The ends of the “wings” interfere.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1543447275
My first idea was to cut down the mounts on the cover and bend down the wings to improve the appearance and also allow it to fit. I cut about 3/4-inch off the mounting bosses under the cover and pulled it down with some Gorilla tape just to see what it looked like. Looks a little better maybe, but the difference is pretty subtle. There are multiple places that it interferes underneath preventing it from being bent down any further. I didn’t bother to see if it cleared the cowl.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1543447260
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1543447267
Not being happy with that minor mod, bit the bullet and cut the wings off. This is what I’ve had in my mind since the beginning. I just ran it through the band saw and still need to clean up and round it a bit. Would look a little more finished. But this is how it looks cut down.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1543447282
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1543447290
Need to get used to this new look, but I think I like it. I definitely like it better than any of the other options. Assuming I go this way, will do some type of custom paint on the cover like on #8674, again matching the body color. Interested in feedback from others. But be kind. BTW, just for grins set the Gen 2 cover on the engine from #8674. It would have to be heavily modified to fit. Even then might not make it. But if it did, then it would look just like a .... Gen 2. Not going there. Too much work getting this Gen 3 on hand and installed. It's going to keep it's own identity.
Gen 3 Coyote PCM, Details Details
This week of the build I’ve been jumping from one thing to the next, and seemingly not making a lot of progress. But in hindsight I guess (hopefully) I have. Focusing on trying to get everything in the engine compartment done. Completed the connection from the fuel regulator to the engine. But radiator hoses, heater hoses, A/C hoses, PS hoses, PCV hoses, and the last of the Coyote wiring still remain. To do it right, at least in my view, no one thing can be taken alone. Often they try to occupy the same space, which in some cases is limited. Also trying to do it as neat and orderly as possible of course.
The first thing was after getting the engine and headers installed, I started having second thoughts about the PCM location. Plain and simple, the headers were closer than I anticipated. After more sitting and staring, and comparing to where the PCM is mounted in #8674, decided to ask my contact at Ford about it. The response I got back wasn’t a surprise, but wasn’t what I wanted to hear. “Too close for comfort” was the official response. Including from some technical guys that were asked about it and shown pictures. I posted pictures earlier in the build thread, so won’t again. But basically it was mounted vertically in front of the passenger side footbox. With it up as high as it could go (limited by the cowl) the bottom edge of the PCM was less than 2 inches from the nearest header pipe. I could flip it over, with the wiring end down, and the PCM was probably an acceptable distance. But then the wire harness and connectors would be similarly close to the headers. Probably even more likely to be at risk. Played around with some ideas to make a heat shield, but finally concluded this orientation wasn’t going to work. I want to get this right the first time, and clearly the mounting I had before was a bad idea.
Short of tearing the engine harness apart, which I’ve said before I just don’t want to do, the large harness and connector coming off the engine to the PCM is the major factor determining the PCM location. So needed to figure out a new mounting in that same general area. The answer became pretty obvious that the PCM needed to be flat on top of the frame in front of the footbox. But it has to stay behind the front splash guards and also the gas strut that holds the cowl up when open. Turns out there’s just enough space in that location to mount it there. Means the heater and A/C hoses around the footbox will need to be re-routed a bit. But I can make it work. The guys at Ford liked my new location. It’s around 12 inches from the headers, much of the underside blocked by the frame, mounting, and footbox. And the heat sinks on the unit point up. Should like it there just fine. Actually further from the headers than the typical Roadster installation including #8674. This general area, with (obviously) the wiring routed and tied down when done:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1544211072
So, designed and fabricated a mounting bracket from 3/16-inch thick aluminum. Actually, harvested from my #7750 Roadster build where the original owner thought the footboxes needed full 3/16-inch sheet floors. I removed and that material just keeps giving and giving. The mounting bracket is riveted to the frame, with 5/16-18 threads tapped into the bracket and frame on one side and the bracket and a second layer of 3/16-inch thick aluminum on the other side. Added some high-temp silicone rubber sheet pads under the PCM mounting ears, and I think it’s all set. It would be real easy to add a heat shield under the PCM. But unless it turns out to be a problem (I doubt it) thinking it's more important for it to have free airspace. So won't for now.
Installed bracket looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1544211092
With the PCM attached looks like this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1544211084
The heater control valve doesn’t move, but the hoses from the inside unit will need to come out from the side instead of the top. The A/C hoses from the inside unit will also need to be slightly re-routed, including replacing that #10 hose connection (top one LH side) from a 90-degree fitting to a 45-degree fitting. It’s on the way. I’m also in the process of re-wrapping that large cable from the engine. Just the visible part from the top corner of the head to the PCM using convolute and harness wrap like all the other wiring. That should clean things up a bit. I’m planning to add extensions to the engine cover to hide more of what’s visible from there back.
With that finally done, now to finalize the other two connections to the PCM. The leg from the PDB I had already reworked and it’s fine. The third connection is for the O2 sensors. Interesting. The Gen 1 Coyote had the O2 wires built into the main control pack harness. The Gen 2 Coyote Ford moved them to the stock engine harness. For the Gen 3 they’re back off the engine harness and now have their own dedicated harness connection to the PCM. With a couple challenges. The harness has four O2 sensor connections, duplicating the OE setup with upstream UEGO connectors in the exhaust collectors (the ones we use) and a second set of downstream connectors that are after the cats which we don’t typically install. A call to Ford early in the game said downstream connectors aren’t active in the crate motor program so clip the legs off or tie out of the way. Upon further review now that the PCM is located, found the required connections for the two upstream sensors aren’t remotely close to the right configuration or length. The RH side is way too long, the LH is way too short, all on the end of large single leg. Not very usable IMO. If you want to see what the supplied harness looks like, it’s on page 10 of the Gen 3 control pack instructions. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-M50B.PDF
So, to make it a clean sweep, since I’ve re-worked all the other harnesses, stripped off all the harness wrap and convolute. There’s only one wire (power) that’s common to all the connections. The rest are discrete right to the PCM connector. So, clipped off the downstream wires at the connector and they’re both gone. Then, shortened the RH upstream side and while I was at it lengthened the LH upstream side. Note I could have used a standard 24-inch extension for the LH side and it would have worked fine. But figured since I had it all apart anyway, just hard wire the added length and be done with it. Then joined the common power wires and wrapped it back up. Now looks like this. Just a little different.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1544211101
I measured and ordered the PS hoses and connectors I need from Breeze. Should be here any day. Ordered and received a Mastercool 71550 A/C Hose Crimper. It’s the one recommended in the Factory Five instructions if you want to make the A/C hoses yourself. I do. Interesting tool and will be a new experience. Waiting for a few other parts to arrive early next week and should have everything I need to complete all the connections in the engine compartment.
Free unsolicited editorial comment: This all sounds a little complicated, and maybe it is. But if you’re experienced with stuff like this, probably you are completing in less time than I’m spending doing these updates. :p If you’re not experienced, probably it seems a little intimidating. Maybe especially the Coyote part. But between the Gen 3 Coupe and the Gen 3 Coyote, much of this is pretty new. I’m learning myself on some of this as I go. As the saying goes, just take it one bite at a time.
