Yes, they do make street pads but the XP series is for racing, I'm very happy with them on my Challenge car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Printable View
Yes, they do make street pads but the XP series is for racing, I'm very happy with them on my Challenge car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Getting closer to completion , as with help of Frank818 and Mechie3 I was able to set my caster to +6 and camber is still a little low @ -1.8 so that is next. I had the car up to 90mph this weekend and all was stable, no tire rubbing issues. I'm still getting the air out of the cooling system (as I had a few leaks that I needed to fix). The car seems well planted.
I need to install the rear fender well splash guards as I have a ton of crap that was thrown around. Also need to install the under the engine aluminum.
Hey Tony,Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
That +6 caster is going to give you a workout. I know Jim and John George are possibly looking at power steering.
The -1.8 camber is a good starting point. I'm running -1.0F and -1.5R with a camber gain of 1* per inch of bump. It's working great with our Toyo R888.
I've been running this season without the splash panels and no aero. No issues.
Bob
I run +9 caster on my challenge car so I know the issues, so that is why I only went to +6 with manual steering, I may have to back that down a little but I wanted to start high and see how much I can take. I'm running -2.5 camber in rear, would like to get the front to that point also but it's going to take some additional mods to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
I also added my wide band 02 Sensor this weekend getting ready for a tune as I need to make sure I'm not running lean since this is a JDM engine tuned for more octane than the US market has.
Nice to hear how well the spacers worked, I knew this was a cheap and easy fix to get decent camber-caster. They are more oriented towards caster than camber. They will give some camber but if you can go past 2.0 I'd be ****ing surprised. Caster at +6 is at the high end of what I could get with spacers. Black bushing pins not flipped.
Have you considered cutting the A-arms' studs to get more camber?
Frank thanks much for the help on the 10mm spacers for the LCA as it did give me enough caster and about .8 more of camber, I have been talking to Jim @ FFR and I think there is an easy fix on the camber also, so I will try that also. So I hope to wind up with -3 camber, +6 caster in the end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Tony, You going to flip the rear LCA bushing? Really interested to find out what the gain is. I have been giving some though to doing it to see if I gain more adjustability on the upper arm.
I added 10mm spacer there to get me the caster and a little more camber, looks like the easy way to get more camber is to slot the FFR spindle mounts so you can vary the tilt in on the spindle as right now there are just round bolt holes, make top one oblong so you can push the spindle in towards to ball joint and you will gain more camberQuote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Wright
Finished up the undercarriage as much as I can for now.
Attachment 55546 Attachment 55547 Attachment 55548
Does that front splitter hang downward as shown in your pic, or is it just hanging down so you could easily install the sheet metal to the rear?
There is a piece of aluminum that bridges from front splitter to under battery tray aluminum and that is at an angle so hard to see from the picture. So the front splitter is higher than the undercarriageQuote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Ahh ok. I wonder if the resulting ramp from the splitter down to the undercarriage level causes any lift....
There is not much difference (picture make it look like a lot) maybe a 1-2 inches difference, I don't expect much lift as with the splitter and canards I expect will negate any potential liftQuote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Tony, I don't understand why the deflector in front of the oil pan. Don't you want to keep the air flowing as fast as possible through the diffuser?Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
Did you custom make you belly pan? Mine is a different shape. Attachment 55549
Bob
My guess is that it reduces turbulence due to the oil pans shape and the opening around it for clearance.
yes, this the deflector, as I don't want to push the air up in the engine area with the hole in the aluminum for tbe oil pan, so this just smooths out the air to either side of the diffuser. My aluminum came from FFR when I got the diffuserQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Bob they sent you the wrong belly pan aluminum. It's supposed to go all the way back to the diffuser. They gave you the standard belly pan aluminum i'm guessing- for cars without rear diffuser. It took FFR 2 tries to send me the right part. the first one they sent was part of a Challenge car... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Those deflectors are going to get eat up really quickly.
Maybe I have the wrong part too. I couldn't figure out anywhere it was supposed to actually go. It wouldn't line up with anything.
Old pictures of the correct belly pan-
http://i.imgur.com/HHso3sxl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ftmf7Zml.jpg
Tony (and some in Chad's pix above), what are those black fasteners for under carriage parts? Sidewalk bolts?
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo.../dp/B009Q73H8AQuote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Tony, Have you had your maiden voyage?
I didn't get that belly pan either, wonder if FFR will still provide it?
Not yet as I was racing the challenge car with Karen Salvaggio last weekend here in the North West, this weekend it's raining and then I go on a business trips. I'm still doing minor stuff as I have been trying to install the rear wheel well liners and what a pain they are to get installed, I figure they will keep out some of the crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Wright
How about you ?
Call FFR as they should have it noted that it did not ship with your rear diffuser and they will send you a new oneQuote:
Originally Posted by Canadian818
I am just finishing up the last few details, 3 weeks I will have it on track here (At least that is the plan) for another shake down then off to the dyno the end of the month. The plus side I haven't been in a rush so I can take my time on the details.Quote:
Originally Posted by FFRSpec72
About the belly pan, Courtnie is just sending me another one, most probably the right part this time. Many people didn't get the pan at all, some asked (like me) after, a couple of years after loll, and got the wrong, too small, part. Tnx to Tony for helping me identifying that part with his pix.
Tony, do you have any more pictures of the brake hose routing to the IC or how you are connecting it to the box around it?
Brett
I don't have any yet as I have not completed the IC housing for the duct work, but the routing of the hose will be simple as the ducts point up and the hose will go from there to the sides of the ICQuote:
Originally Posted by Brett33
I had some time to complete the rear wheel well aluminum, what a freaking pain, I did use Mechie3 mounts which helped but still a real pain. I also put the Carbotech XP8 (rear) and XP10 (front) pads on, good thing I did as when changing the rear I noticed that I had not torqued down the rear spindle nut on the axel, that would have been no fun ...
Attachment 56118 Attachment 56119 Attachment 56120 Attachment 56121
I've been dreading that part too. Any tips? Your install looks good and clean.
Get Mechie3 mounts, as these make it easier. I had to enlarge the area next to the shock and the area short lateral link, best to have someone help as you will need 3+ hands to get the aluminum to bend to conform to the curve and rivet this to the tabs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindsight
Thanks Tony
Looks great! We wont be doing that....
BTW, splitting compounds on the brake pads? I didn't think you did that on mid engine/high down force cars. Share please.
I see you had to cut your inner splash guards, I know I will too to clear out the brake's line, but did you cut them to clear out some other parts like the upper link?
I have lots of years running on Carbotech pads, what I find is that a car that is weighted in the heavy in rear needs more aggressive pads in front to avoid the rear from locking up, I would far rather have the front lock than the rear, so I find this split of pad compound to be just about right, so I will see how this works out on the 818. The front and rear pads are the same surface area, the front pads are just thicker by a few millimeters.Quote:
Originally Posted by RetroRacing
Just cut to clear the shock spring, upper link and brake line, not a total hack but a few inches had to come off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
Did you remove the rear spring and cycle the suspension with the tires on to see if it rubs your inner fenders? I'm guessing it will.
yes I ran the arm travel and it may ruub but I'm using 100lb stronger springs so I'm thinking it will not rub with these springs as I don't expect the travel to be as great as the stock springsQuote:
Originally Posted by matteo92065