Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Photos still aren’t loading Craig. Don’t know why—-everyone else’s are working for me :confused:

Jeff

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I am seeing them Jeff.

@craig: they say that envy is the thief of joy, but in this case I don’t think so. I envy your detailed skills and capability. I doubt I can ever match you but I really do enjoy seeing what you are doing. Well done sir! Well done indeed!

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Photos still aren’t loading Craig. Don’t know why—-everyone else’s are working for me :confused:

Jeff

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Hi Jeff,

Thanks for checking!

When I log back-in to check my thread, the pictures do not pop up for me, either (initially). I'm wondering since they are "large" format, they may need some time to load. After about 10~20 seconds, they do load up :(

Craig C

Quote:

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Originally Posted by danmas

I am seeing them Jeff.

@craig: they say that envy is the thief of joy, but in this case I don’t think so. I envy your detailed skills and capability. I doubt I can ever match you but I really do enjoy seeing what you are doing. Well done sir! Well done indeed!

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Thanks for the kind words Dan! It's taking me longer for my build, but I'm trying to savor all the moments...plus it's been very cold here this weekend...not much else to do :D

Craig C

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Originally Posted by cc2Arider

Thanks for the kind words Dan! It's taking me longer for my build, but I'm trying to savor all the moments...plus it's been very cold here this weekend...not much else to do :D

Craig C

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I have slowed down a bit on my build, partly because I have been so busy doing other things and partly because I have been enjoying thinking through issues and solutions. It’s a special process and the goal isn’t the end state but rather the journey, at least for me.

Craig, that's some very impressive work making those trim rings largely by hand. They look great. A ton of work but turning out super nice and very unique. Anxious to see the finished product.

Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by danmas

I have slowed down a bit on my build, partly because I have been so busy doing other things and partly because I have been enjoying thinking through issues and solutions. It’s a special process and the goal isn’t the end state but rather the journey, at least for me.

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I totally agree and understand your process :)

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Originally Posted by PMD24

Craig, that's some very impressive work making those trim rings largely by hand. They look great. A ton of work but turning out super nice and very unique. Anxious to see the finished product.

Pat

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Thanks Pat :)

Part of my journey is to see what I can do and try it...after thinking thru lots of options :p

I still paint myself into a corner on occasion, but just like Dan mentioned, part of the process is to think thru solutions...and when you see the "other side" that's really rewarding!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I got my Dash Panel inserts and Console door back from the Powder Coater :)

He had a textured black finish that I was hoping would mimic the "crinkle" black painted look. Here's a couple of pictures in bright sunlight. I'm hoping the glare is not much when it's in the car...:rolleyes: ... if so, then I'll just have to re-do them...

Dash Gauge pod and Glovebox door with my choice of leather for the Dash. This is the same leather that John Ibele used for his build...

Attachment 223162

Console Door with my choice of a different leather for the console and the trans tunnel top. This leather texture most closely matches the leather inserts of the seats...

Attachment 223163

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Not much to show in this post...just lots of detailed fitting now that I've chosen my leather. The Dash leather is about 0.040" thick, whereas the Console and Trans tunnel top leather is closer to 0.055" thick.

I decided to change my mind on the interface between the Dash and Console. It'll be a T-shaped extrusion that I'll have powder-coated black crinkle finish. It'll serve as a decorative piece which "breaks up" the visual appearance a little without being a focal point. I have enough of those :p. I'm hoping it will also protect the glued leather edge on the front of the dash panel's lower mounting flange. I got the extrusion from McMaster-Carr and I had to trim down the edge since it came as a 1" deep x 1.5" tall piece.

Here I used my router technique with some 1/8" plus 1/4" rectangular stock as spacers: one side is trimmed to 3/8" and the other is 1/4". I may decide to reduce that 1/4" down to 1/8"...we'll see...
Attachment 223164

and here's a mockup on the car...after more fitting to keep it level with the back cockpit 3/4" frame tube
Attachment 223165

I know that no one would notice on the finished car since there are so many curves, but I'd remember that I didn't do a good job...and it would eat at me everytime...so I got the details to my liking :)

This may be my last post of the year, and while I was hoping to get my engine started by now, I'm looking forward to spending time with family for the Holidays :o

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Craig C

Happy New Year Everyone! I hope your 2026 is healthy and fulfilling ;)

I was back in the garage and finally got to finish up my Dash Panel's fastening strategy. I'll use the Dash Panel frame hoop tube, the bottom edge of the Dash (where it interfaces with my Console), and the outer flanges (near the doors) as my "lock-down" fastening points.

My Dash Panel "trim rings" will camouflage the fasteners there...or maybe I should say that they'll perform double-duty :) This meant precision drilling for me and it was somewhat stressful...but it worked out well. Most of the top fasteners will be riv-nuts, but 2 of them are too close to the edge of the hoop frame tube for riv-nuts, so they'll be plain sheet metal screws (like the Build Manual example).

Here's the mock-up at the Dash frame hoop: glovebox Attachment 223602

and gauge pod Attachment 223603

Then, I needed to add the riv-nuts to my Dash Panel "extensions"
Attachment 223604

and then fastened
Attachment 223606

and here it is installed (mostly)...and still where I wanted it :p
Attachment 223605

This was a big milestone for me :cool: I'll just need to get some more low-profile riv-nuts to finish it out...

Next Post: Under Dash access panels (finally)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I create my under dash access panels. I had previously made them "rough", but now that the Dash Panel is "locked down", I can finish the details (such as making room for the heater ducts and vents and making the whole thing "presentable" :) These are hinged at the back (near the large square cross cockpit frame tube) and the front can be unfastened quickly with Phillip's head screwdriver (if the need ever arises)...

Here's more detail work done with the help of "CAD" cardboard-aided-design :p
Attachment 223607

I purposefully did not get out the hammer and shot bag to keep the panels simple-to-build to show you that you can approximate interesting shapes without getting expensive tools and learning high-skill techniques. I hope this is an inspiration to you to get creative! :D

And then 2 views of it fastened into place
Attachment 223608 Attachment 223609

similar work was done on the Passenger-side
Attachment 223610 Attachment 223611

Now that these panels are formed, they can go to the Powder-coater for more black-crinkle finish :cool:

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Now that I'm almost ready to send more Dash panels off to the Powder-Coater, I wanted to revert my attention back to the wiring so that I can pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. This was a milestone I really wanted to cross off...

I was able to re-do my behind-dash wiring again (after a couple of months of it being apart) pretty easily, then I re-wired the key-switch, hooked up the battery and fuel pump relay again, got my Edelbrock Pro-Flo app ready, then added a couple of gallons of gas to the tank.

Here's a simple restraining bracket I made to keep the fuel neck from flopping over Attachment 223812

It took a couple of priming periods (key cycles) to fill the fuel filter canister and purge the system. I checked for leaks each time. So far...so good.

Once I saw a non-zero pressure at the regulator gauge, I checked all the joints again, and the good news is that all my hand-made joints were leak free! The bad news is that the NPT joint appeared to be leaking at the pressure sensor itself :(

I was thinking the 1st thing to try would be to tighten it a little, so I looked at the Edelbrock website as well as the Summit website, and I didn't see any specialized wrench for the sensor. Here's a picture
Attachment 223813

Does anyone know what size wrench this needs? It appears to be about 1 & 1/16" or 27mm between the flats...

I figured it might take a "standard" sensor wrench...however specialized they might be, but couldn't find any.

Helpful suggestions welcomed :)

Craig C

Attachment 223815

Thanks Mike ;)

I can try an adjustable wrench, but was hoping for something else since I'll have to remove that junction from the fuel line just to get that large of a wrench in on it...

Craig C

Craig, when you pull that apart and confirm that it's tapered pipe thread, be sure to apply thread sealant and stay a thread or two back from the end of the fitting. And no teflon tape.

Pat

Thanks Pat! I'll try to tighten a little, then if more of a solution is needed, that was my plan, too :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Good news about my fuel pressure sensor leak. It was the joint at the sensor that was leaking :) I ended up carefully removing that junction block to put it into aluminum vise jaws to unscrew the sensor. It was on there tight (by force)...apparently the old thread sealer did a good job of gluing it, but not of sealing it :rolleyes: I cleaned it up and put some fresh Earl's sealant on it, tightened back up, refastened, and checked for leaks...all good now! Thanks for the tips :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend, I worked on the final details of my Driver's side gauge pod...

In hindsight, I should've done more custom work before sending off for powder-coating...nonetheless, I made reliefs for the turn signal switch wires and the keyswitch. First though, I added low-profile nut-serts for the remaining fastening holes. Here's a couple of pictures with fasteners attached for mock-up

Attachment 224267 Attachment 224268

and here's the refinement of the gauge pod with relief cuts and indicator lights mounted. For those interested, the indicator lights are 10mm diameter, high intensity(more on that later) LEDs...you can also see the low-profile nut-serts.

Attachment 224269

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

In this last post of the weekend, I wanted to share that the dash switch wires got tailored to my layout needs (i.e., they got shortened :p ). The light switch wires simply got shortened with splices because I didn't want to go to the trouble of getting new female spades with restraining barbs to fit into the stock plastic connector. The keyswitch was easier since those are simple ring terminals -- I just made new ones. The remaining light-duty switches got new terminals on shortened leads...

Here's a rough picture

Attachment 224271

Then a couple of pictures I am really excited about -- images of what the indicator lights look like when illuminated. I wanted them to be bright so that I could see them clearly in direct sunlight. I think I succeeded -- these should remind me to not act like an old man and leave my blinkers on ... unaware for miles :p

High Beams

Attachment 224272

Turn signals

Attachment 224273

For those wondering...yes, I used the emergency flasher switch and relay for this test ... and you can see the intensity difference of the left front indicator light just above the Driver's side front tire(park lights versus turn or flasher lights) :cool:

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

I had LED indicators like that on my first roadster… great to be able to see them on a sunny day but they sear your retinas when driving at night. I had to kill the intensity by blacking them out with a Sharpie.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff...your perspective is most helpful :)

A backup plan is to add some Zener diodes "after the fact" in the harness. A much better plan would be to source the power from the variable intensity dash lighting...but that seems like too much trouble :p

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Winter weather here, so I'm happy to be working on "inside" projects :D and since I didn't want to be inhaling glue fumes, that meant more dash panel wiring...

First I needed to confirm how much room I have behind the dash panel (again). I decided to move my Driver's side heater duct all the way closest to the firewall to provide maximum room for the harness design and layout. I used adhesive-backed zip-tie mounts...

Here's a perspective
Attachment 224699

I also figured where I'd have the most room to add connectors and extra wiring for serviceability. Looks like between the Tachometer and the Speedometer is the compromise area since the heater and defroster ducts are taking up so much space...

With that in mind, here's my Driver's side gauge pod wiring with connectors so that I can remove the "main" dash panel without removing the gauge pod (and steering wheel, turn signal assembly, etc)

Attachment 224700

Installed and confirmed connector locations are still "in the zone".

Attachment 224701

The wiring was good with the exception of the turn signal indicators...somehow I got them reversed...no worries...since I used weatherpacks, I just re-arranged 2 pins and fixed :cool:

Feeling pretty good and wanting to reach a milestone for the weekend, I started on the "main" dash gauge wiring. Here's an initial wiring layout

Attachment 224702

and confirming that there's still room back there. Just barely

Attachment 224703

Getting the heater/defroster system fully functional and installed "with purpose" has been one of the bigger challenges of my build. Feels good to see it through :D

One last note: The FFR-supplied light switch is "HUGE" compared to the other switches, so plan your layout around that. I mistakenly located my trip reset button right underneath the light switch and I think I may have to source another simple SPST push button switch because the molded strain-relief of the Speedhut-supplied switch harness is too tall...

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I couldn't resist the temptation to quickly wire up my Dash panel gauges with some twist-nuts "just to see" what they looked light illuminated and if they would measure the voltage accurately, keep clock time, and measure what meager fuel level I have in the tank...

Here's the gauges illuminated -- looks good!
Attachment 224704

Apologies if this is in a "sticky" post, but is it normal for the gauge "dimmer" function on the light switch to not affect the Speedhut gauge lighting at-all?

It is either "on" or "off"...no dimming :(


Next, I confirmed that the gauges "sweep" upon power-up, then I checked the values for "reasonableness". Seems good...however, upon power-down, I noticed that the volt meter still "held" the last value, as did the fuel gauge.

Attachment 224705

Is that normal? I confirmed that I'm using the brown "gauge feed" wire and it is on the Accessory circuit. Furthermore, it has zero voltage with key off. Is this an artifact of the stepper motor gauge design, or is the power-down "park" function not working properly?

Feedback welcomed...:)

Craig C

Yes, it’s normal for the Speedhut gauges to hold the last value when power is cut. So once you have it running you’ll find that the tach, oil pressure, temp, volts, etc. will all show what you had when you shut it off.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff for confirming the gauge behavior :)

I checked again, and if I key cycle "just right", I can get the needles to go back to the park positions.

I'm also going to check my dimmer voltages...maybe an artifact of using an incandescent circuit on an LED system...:confused:

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Since I got confirmation that the gauges seem to be powered and illuminated correctly, I got busy finalizing the center gauge wiring details.

First up, making sure I package the gauge wiring so that I can attempt to service them in the future: with a little extra wire length, dedicated connectors, and zip-ties :)

Attachment 224969

Next, customizing the gauge switches to make them fit better for my dash layout (since there's so much competing for the same space behind the dash)

motivation:
Attachment 224970
then re-soldering similar switches (they might actually be the same sourced switches) to reduce the installed height
Attachment 224971

then taking advantage of adhesive-backed zip-tie mounts to keep the main harness where I want it on the firewall panel (behind the dash)
Attachment 224972

Next, checking the fit. Geez it was tedious, fiddly work to make sure I wasn't forcing it or pinching wires...I sure hope this extra effort pays dividends down-the-road...when I might have to remove the dash.

Attachment 224973 Attachment 224974

Next post, getting the dash more ready for 1st engine start :cool:

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I'm a little behind in my goals for this Winter...I really wanted to get to 1st engine start back in December...so, trying to make good progress while it is frigid outside :p As an aside, I'm really happy I got my garage more usable at the start of this endeavor a couple of years ago. Negative temperatures outside this past week...reasonable temperatures in the garage with a small space heater :cool:

While trying to get the dash panel installed with all the "stuff" attached to it, I found that my "vintage" cigarette lighter is interfering with my behind dash ductwork :(

Attachment 224975

I think I'll attempt to bend or otherwise reshape the connection terminals this week. Wish me luck that I don't have to re-design anything else!

The overall package with vintage knobs :cool: I like it!!!

Attachment 224976

I still need to upholster the dash and console, but that involves using contact cement, and I'm not willing to do that job while it's cold outside (vapors plus space heater in the garage...no), so that job will wait until after engine start...

Then I got REALLY motivated to unpackage my "engine start" sidepipes and mock them into place. I'll save my Gas-N pipes for the "real" installation later...

I copied other Builders and simply swapped the pipes side-to-side so that the mounting tab pointed up. Then used the supplied mounting bracket mounted to the door hinge bolt hole.

Attachment 224977

mounting details with rubber washers for crude vibration "dampers"

Attachment 224978 the passenger side required spacers, so I just used some extra washersAttachment 224979

Observation:

Adding the sidepipes really makes the car wider than before. I hit my shins several times already :p

Getting closer to 1st start...maybe next post :rolleyes:

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Today I put together my Courtesy lighting system. I used high intensity LED panel lights so that they'd be the same vendor/source that I used for the dash indicator lights. :cool:

I got them delivered this past week, so I spent the AM making a harness fixture. I never made one before, but have seen them in Aviation manufacturing. I already had a multi-purpose 24"x24" plywood work surface, so I just layed-out the dimensions and screwed temporary zip-tie mounts at the desired lamp locations. I gave some extra length so that the installed harness would be tidy against the mounting panels and went to work...

Here's the fixture serving its purpose

Attachment 225318

A few crimps for the Weatherpack 2-way connectors and it was time to test it on the car. Here's a picture (dark garage, but bright sunlight coming thru the small garage door windows :rolleyes: )

Attachment 225319

Then, I located and mounted the door sill lights and here are the results

Attachment 225320 Attachment 225321

There will be additional lights on either side of the console pointing down at the sides of the transmission tunnel near the inner footbox panel edges, but that will have to wait for me to take out my console reinforcement panel and drill the holes...

Lastly, here's an image of the approximate lighting for the inside of the console (using one high intensity LED)

Attachment 225322

Next post: First engine start!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I couldn't wait to post this...it's been a long time coming :rolleyes:

https://rumble.com/v75g302-angelina-first-start.html

The setup:

I took out all the spark plugs and turned over the engine with the starter to verify that I could see oil pressure values on the dash gauge.

Then I reinstalled the plugs and did a nut-and-bolt of the engine bay and exhaust (and cleaned off the smudges from the headers).

Then I got 2 fire extinguishers at-the-ready.

Then I got the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 ready on my smart phone and hit the record button on my old smart phone camera on a tripod...

Good news: no drastic leaks; the solid engine mounts didn't seem noticeable at all; nothing fell off :rolleyes:

The not-so-good news: the alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery; the Passenger-side headers got a lot hotter than the Driver's side. I hope my wiz-bang fuel line design isn't the reason...we'll see :p

Also for the record, I didn't mess with the Pro-Flo4 settings at-all -- I used what Mike Forte' had programmed in when he tested it on the dyno a couple of years ago...so I may "store" the Forte' tune, and attempt to load in a fresh set-up "wizard" tune for next time...

All-in-all, I'm very pleased...can't wait to keep working on Angelina some more!

Happy Building,

Craig C

Congrats man! BIG milestone.

Pat

Brings a smile….congrats

Big congrats on the milestone Craig!

Jeff

Congrats Craig! Sounds great!

Thanks Pat, BudFive, Jeff, and Chad for the well wishes! This forum is GREAT :)

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I'm back down to earth now that I got the engine started. I plan to follow-up Tues or Wed this week for some more fun since the temperatures are gonna be in the upper 30s to mid 40s -- I can leave the garage door open for extended idling and tuning :cool:

So...to round out my weekend, I got back to some dash wiring. Special thanks to Jeff for providing feedback on my "bright" indicator lights. I got to thinking, and I decided to make a simple dimmer circuit for both the indicator lights as well as the gauge lights.

I sourced a 2-gang 10k Ohm pot (typically used for electric guitars) so that I could dim both independent circuits at the same time. Then I made a simple bracket out of some left-over 0.040" Al sheet and mounted it below the steering column in the two unused bolt holes. The potentiometer was small enough to fit into the space that was cut-out from the factory bracket :cool:

I can reach under the steering column to make adjustments (as needed) while driving. Here's a few pictures...

Normal "bright" setting

Attachment 225345 Attachment 225346

and "Dim" setting

Attachment 225347 Attachment 225348

Sometime next week, I plan to disassemble my dash and console to get access for the gauge wiring, and add my dimmer circuit for that...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

I was planning to work on my instrumentation dimmer circuit, but I got sidetracked with another job. I noticed that when the cooling system got up to operating temperature, that the heater lines would get soft and sag a little due to the unsupported weight of my heater valve :(

I'd like to keep that valve from bouncing on top of the Passenger footbox panel, so I made a bracket :cool: Better to get this out-of-the-way now while I can get to everything...

I had some polished Stainless sheet in a left-over, odd-ball shape, so I trimmed it up, drilled some holes, and bent it. Then I used some spare RAM mount handlebar mounting hardware (u-bolt, plus plastic tubing spacer, and plastic bolt nubs) to create this:

Attachment 225689 Attachment 225690

Not too bad for some spare parts lying around :D

Next post: more Cooling system finishing

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Late post from this past weekend due to my account being accessed inappropriately or ??? :confused:

As some of you have also gone thru deliberations on which Coolant Tank to use, I'll outline my thoughts and decision...then show you what I did.

I liked FMan's choice of a Canton 2qt unit, and this is reflected in many other builds...special thanks goes to Greg for getting me some measurements for his installation :)

I went so far as to make a cardboard model and mocked it up in the engine bay...I just wasn't "feeling it". I then thought again about the FFR-supplied 1qt unit, and how to make it work for my build...

Rightly or wrongly, I believe I don't need a large tank since I'm using the Evans waterless coolant...and therefore don't expect it to expand much under high heating conditions. Then, I remembered some had used a Mishimoto tank, so I looked into it. It is only 1qt size, but has options to configure it and it appeared to be well-made. I checked Summit, and it was less expensive, too...so I bought it as a "let's try it" experiment.

Here, I've mocked it into place:

Attachment 225726 Attachment 225727 Attachment 225728

I liked what I was seeing...then deliberated for a long time about "how" to mount it. Then, I took the advice of others who say not to overthink things (which is a hard habit for me to break :rolleyes: )... so, instead of making a new bracket for it, I decided (like many other Builders) to just mount it to the F-panel...so that's what I did. I drilled out the holes to 3/8" and used some rubber grommets with 1/4-20 bolts. I also used rubber-backed washers for the tank tabs. Here's the results:

Attachment 225729 Attachment 225730

The biggest surprise was that the panel "warp" wasn't that bad...it was only about 1/4" where I chose my mounting holes. Also, the panel relieves the warp at the lower front bolt hole and there is enough distance to the nearest rivet so that it is not a big deal.

Now for the "bad" news: The lower sight window fitting leaked...it was a real "dribbler", so I'll ask how well the Lifetime warranty is on Tuesday :p As a backup, those fittings seem very commonly used for air suspensions, and Summit has some :cool:

Happy Building!

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

Here's a follow-up on my warranty replacement parts from Mishimoto: No hassle, and delivered within days :)

This time, it appears the NPT threads have some sealant on the threads ready-to-go, and I made sure the sight tube was fully inserted into the "press to fit" fittings by feeling for the second "seat" pressure on the o-ring inside. Then, I tested by attempting to pull it apart -- good-n-solid!

Here's a picture:

Attachment 225918

I still may swap the fill & overflow fittings with the sight tube (side-to-side)...and it is easy with this unit since the screw holes are identical :cool: This means, I'll need to get a 90deg 1/8NPT to 3/8" barb for the filler neck "T"...choices, choices.

Then, I'll replace the Evans Prep fluid with the "real" stuff...

Craig C

Hey Y'All,

This past weekend was spent on other critical things, but I managed to get into the Garage for some things that needed "doin' " there, too :)

It's kinda interesting how Jeff posted about how these cars need to be respected, and I had independently double-checked my Accelerator Pedal linkage to confirm if I had a "soft" tip-in from idle as well as confirming how different pivot points and angles can impact what the engine "sees" when you depress the Accelerator pedal...

Here's my measurement setup (yes, pretty crude) :p Reminder that this is a RT-tribute styled AccPed with Forte' pivoting linkage...

Attachment 225919

and here's the results (as measured with Pro-Flo4 system feedback)

Attachment 225920

A few points to make: 1) measurement error is not too bad considering the crude setup. 2) my mockup well before-hand seems to have paid off in a very linear response. Note the 2nd-order curve-fit coefficient is VERY small. You can expect non-linear responses with all of the travel "arcs" at each pivot. I was hoping for a more "soft" tip-in, but a linear pedal response is very good, too. 3) a simple change of pivot point makes a lot of difference. The reduced "gain" for the longer-travel pedal is what I'll try to use. This was my initial design, anyway (but had doubts about effective heel-n-toeing). Now that I can measure what the Pro-Flo4 "sees", I think the heel-n-toe action is going to be fine...

For those interested in mimicking my set-up, the RT-style pivot assembly (made by Mountain Metal Works) is installed upside-down with the allen set screws accessible from the top of the footbox access panel (instead of through the footwell area).

Lastly, I started the mock-up of a "dead" pedal. This is VERY preliminary...but might give you inspiration to make something similar :)
Attachment 225921

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

Incredibly clean build Craig. Congrats on the first start and I love the dash.