Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

I did have to relocate my drier as it was rubbing with the compressor lines.

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Question for the experts. The headlight button is on-on button. The source is the blue sw wire and the toggles are the hi beam and low beam power wires. The red and black wires power the LED light on the button. I tested this by running 12v to the button and it lit up. This my understanding.

Would it be possible to run the low beam directly off the headlight switch(blue wire) and then use an on-off button to energize the high beam? Do the headlights support that, or will they let the magic smoke out? I saw that some folks have wired it with a foot toggle for the high beams so I assume this may work. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Question for the experts. The headlight button is on-on button. The source is the blue sw wire and the toggles are the hi beam and low beam power wires. The red and black wires power the LED light on the button. I tested this by running 12v to the button and it lit up. This my understanding.

Would it be possible to run the low beam directly off the headlight switch(blue wire) and then use an on-off button to energize the high beam? Do the headlights support that, or will they let the magic smoke out? I saw that some folks have wired it with a foot toggle for the high beams so I assume this may work. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Take a look at the RF schematic and get a clearer picture of how the headlights work. The headlight switch provides +12V battery power to the blue wire when the switch is pulled. At that point, low or high beam not determined. The dimmer switch (whatever kind you use) applies that +12V to either the low beams (red) or the high beams (brown). The indicator light you mentioned is on the high beams so that you know it's in that position.

The foot toggle you mention does the same switching, e.g. the blue wire to either the red or brown wires. I used one on my truck build.

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?

I I have another on/on switch I got but it is not as nice as the ones from Billet Automotive Buttons I have.

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?

I I have another on/on switch I got but it is not as nice as the ones from Billet Automotive Buttons I have.

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Use the on off switch to drive a five-pin changeover relay. The changeover relay will then give you high or low beam.

Cheers, Nigel

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Originally Posted by Nigel Allen

Use the on off switch to drive a five-pin changeover relay. The changeover relay will then give you high or low beam.

Cheers, Nigel

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The relay would be energized by a separate 12v source?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

Right that’s what figured is happening. The “hi beam” switch I bought, that matches my horn button, is on/off. I was hoping to use it by connecting the blue wire straight to low beam. Meaning it will always be on when the light switch is on. And then “T” the blue wire to the on/off button to power the high beams when it is pressed. So when the “hi beam” button is pressed the head lights would be getting a high beam and low beam power at the same time. Will this fry the headlights?

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I don't think that's a good idea. With LED headlights, the current draw might be within limits with both on. For any others likely not. But typically headlights aren't designed to have both lit at the same time. Could overheat or whatever. Also blinding to other drivers. I've used the ididit 3100006040 40 amp High Beam/Low Beam Switching Relay in a couple builds and will again on my Mk5 build. Touching a wire to ground switches the headlight feed. Works great.

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Originally Posted by rickster991

The relay would be energized by a separate 12v source?

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You would use the headlight power to operate the relay. That way, when the headlight switch is turned off, the relay is de-energized and can't flatten the battery on the car.

Let me know if you need a drawing

I think I get it. Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll use the switch to control the ground. Does it look correct? Thanks!

Attachment 218393

While on break I covered the dash with CF vinyl wrap. I’ve used this on the roof of my race car and it’s still holding fast after several years of abuse. I plan to cover the console with it as well.

https://a.co/d/hdF9UOn

Attachment 218394

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

I think I get it. Here’s what I’m thinking. I’ll use the switch to control the ground. Does it look correct? Thanks!

Attachment 218393

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Perfect. You nailed it.

Cheers,

Nige

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickster991

While on break I covered the dash with CF vinyl wrap. I’ve used this on the roof of my race car and it’s still holding fast after several years of abuse. I plan to cover the console with it as well.

https://a.co/d/hdF9UOn

Attachment 218394

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I did that and love it. Used the exact same material from Amazon lol

I just got an agreed value policy from Hagerty. I had to state I am the only driver because my wife does not have experience. I got $80k. Is this enough? Anyone else have experience with Hagerty. State Farm would not do agreed coverage since the frame is new. They would do normal depreciation coverage. Next is off to OATA to get a tag and title. Fingers crossed.

I had Hagerty on my Viper with no issues but when I talked to them about the Cobra they threw up too many obstacles like performance driving experience and me being the only driver. Went to Robbin at Midwest (a sponsor on this site) and everything was easy peasy. Now I've got my Cobra, my 68 Camaro, and my wife's Sunbeam all insured through him. Funny thing is, every time I add a car my rate gets cheaper.

I’ll check them out next year. They do agreed value?

Strange on Hagerty and performance driving. I've got my track car (SCCA Club Spec Mustang / S197) on a Hagerty agreed value policy, as it's a low mile instance I bought from Carsandbids. I also use Hagerty (who subs to RLI) for SCCA Time Trials / Track Night in America performance driving policies. These are separate per-day policies with a 10/15% deductible and agreed value.

It’s official! I am tagged and titled in FL. I made the 3 hour drive to OATA on Lee Road after the positive experience by others on the forum. The only issue was they first put the year as 2025. When i mentioned I thought it had to be 1965 they said that no it was the year of the manufacture. I did not complain, I just wanted it done. But, the supervisor reviewed it and told them it was backwards and had to be 1965 as the year. They fixed it and 15 mins later I left with a title, tag and application for a personalized plate. All in all it took 1 hour and no headaches. No more illegal go-karting!

I need a favor. I won’t be near the car until October but wanted to order some speaker boxes. Can someone tell me the height in the trunk behind the rear cockpit wall? And the length between the seat belt openings?

Thanks!

I have my body on and can check when I get back home after the weekend but meanwhile...exactly where do you want the height measured from? Obviously it's higher in the center. Would you like to have it at the sides? At the inside roll bar leg?

Jeff

Thanks! I was hoping to install them between the seats on the trunk shelf. The boxes I’m looking at are 8.75” wide, 7.75” tall and 4.25” deep. If there is room a may install a SW box that is 17”x11”x10”. I think subs are not directional so I can place it anywhere?

I wonder how many people actually use their stereos once they get their car on the road. The car is loud enough as it is, and I can't imagine any stereo built in an FFR has any sound quality to it. Heck, your ear is 18 inches from the sidepipe exit and rear tire! :)

Greg

Noise cancelling ear buds are the go. Especially when using sat nav.

Finished my interim build while waiting to head back. It came out nice, but I may need to add a little horsepower.. 😃

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Really relieved to see this. I have been worrying about the gap, but if i torque much more something will break.

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Originally Posted by rickster991

ok here goes...

I watched several videos and read as mush as i could and proceeded to install my freshly delivered blueprint 347. Seeing my large investment dangling in the air waiting to come crashing down and taking out other parts with it was nerve-racking. To say i was nervous is an understatement. The first step was to get the engine on the hoist. Here is a picture of my hoist, as it will become the antagonist in this epic. It is sold under different names, but here is a link target

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my first attempt was at the 1 ton setting. The specs for the 347 + tkx listed at ~750 lbs so that's why i chose it. A few of the videos i watched mentioned using the 500 lb setting for ease of installation, but they were able to manage at 1 ton. Most of the videos i watched were for mark ivs. Because of the layout of my garage my plan was to roll the car to the engine and then use my lift to raise the back of the car if needed.

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after trying different tactics it was clear the arm was not going to be long enough. I thought that was going to be the case, but i wanted to try the safest route first. So i dropped the engine on jack stands and reconfigured the hoist. Here is where the bag or organic top soil comes into the picture @budfive. I was afraid it would tip over and needed some ballast. It weighed 50 lbs and would mould itself to the hoist. Perfect! I could have used just regular soil, but nothing but the best for this build! :)

here is a picture of the resting place in case you need to readjust and are looking for a configuration that worked.

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as you know from my previous posts this was a fail as well. The engine would not clear the brake booster until i lifted the back of the car to create a steep angle. I don't think anyone without a lift could do this. I was hoping that if i could get the engine in that i could get it on the mounts. I was able to get it past the brake booster but i could not get anywhere near the mounts. At this point i posted the posts above and asked the experts for help. Here are some pictures of the arm at full extension, 45" measured from chain to jack pivot, and the cross members hitting the hoist. The bag of soil worked flawlessly!

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the third try worked thanks to @edwardb!!! It seems so obvious once you see it. But i would have never thought to try from the side. I put jack stands on the frame directly between the wheels so as to not block the hoist and then removed the wheel to get maximum clearance. At first i thought it was not going to work or i would need to remove the brake caliper. But once i moved the hoist towards the firewall, the leg cleared the front cross member. So i repositioned the jack stands to it and then there was plenty of clearance as i moved the hoist closer to the firewall. It was really crazy how little you need to turn the release valve for the engine to plummet! I suggest practicing this where no damage can happen. It did take me several tries to get the engine to drop into the bolt slot and the pin slots. I kept getting one or the other to fall in place. What finally worked for me was getting one in place and then tightening down the bolt so it was loose enough to move, but tight enough to not allow the pin to leave its channel.

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so finally it's in and looks great. I was going to paint over the lizardskin in body color, but it dried a flat black that i really like. So i am going to leave it.

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i did make a video. I keep family and friends up to date with videos, so that is the intended audience. I posted it to my youtube channel if you are interested.

https://youtu.be/sr4jsupl7cm

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i love that video !!!

I’m back at it for the month of October. I’ve been working the last week so I’m going to break it up so it’s not one long post.

First some updates. I got the new fuel pump from FFR. I took the old one out and decided to check the electrical connections. Nothing was clearly wrong so I took it apart to install the new pump. First thing was to remove the connector and make sure it was not bad. It turns out the ground was open. When I took the heat-shrink-butt connector off, the wire disintegrated in my hand???? Maybe it’s not gas safe? So I decided to solder the connections instead. Fixed.

I wanted to make sure the diff was full even though it’s supposed to come pre-filled. It was a quart low! After discussion with FFR I drained the quart back out and mixed it with half the tube of LSD additive and put it back together in. Make sure to check yours!

Next I worked on the drive assembly. I bought the neutral safety and reverse light pig tails from Summit and connected those. I chose not to use the clutch switch.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IST-ELA-00200
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-pg052

Next I worked on adjusting the pinion angle. After speaking with FFR they said it should be 0-1 degrees. Without adjusting it was at 4.5 degrees. The most difficult thing was finding a reference to zero out the level. I’m chose the frame crossmember where the diff is mounted. That was within .5 degree of the bottom of the frame.

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I was able to get it close by adding 3 washers. They add up to 1/3”. Because of the added height the bolts provided did not fit. I had to order longer ones. They are M12x1.75 threads. I bought this thread finder. I really like that you can use each piece individually. My previous one, they were all tied together on a chain.

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https://a.co/d/g8X3pCz

UPDATE: Turns out the set is inaccurate for some sizes! I bought the bolts and they did not fit. Turns out their 7/16”-14

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Lastly I installed the shaft safety loop. The one I purchased required extensive modification. The tricky part is that the transmission is not centered so it throws off the measurements. But I got it done.



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I'm not sure how you're measuring pinion angle. It's the angle of the engine compared to the differential. Simplest way is to measure across the harmonic balancer. Then measure the differential. Easiest is with the driveshaft off then you can measure across the flange. The pinion angle is the difference between the two. Driveshaft isn't measured. Doesn't matter if the chassis is level or not. The difference between the two measurements will be the same. Lots has been posted about this elsewhere if you want to dig deeper.

Thanks for that! My logic was the diff is stationary, IRS. So the only thing that can change is the transmission angle. So I used the diff angle as the reference to zero out my angle level. I then needed to find the angle of the transmission relative to that. Could not find a spot to measure that, so I figured the shaft itself going close to zero is what I needed so I measured that. Using the harmonic balancer makes sense. I’ll check that and see how far off I was.

I finally got around to fixing my leaking valve cover. I decided to add some jewelry to the bay with some valve covers from Ansen and the Ford Racing air cleaner.

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So it turns out it was leaking because one of the bolts was cross threaded! 5 of the bolts came off easily, but the one in the top corner would not budge. I was afraid I was going to snap it. It did finally come out. You can see from the pictures comparing the two covers, that the cork never compressed and it was saturated with oil. I carefully re-tapped the threads along with a vacuum cleaner to make sure none of the filings went in the engine. Once that was done I torqued it to spec. I did call BP to let them know I was not happy… I hope that’s the last of it.

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Lastly I connected my heater hose. BP gave me the part number of the hose I needed to get. I got it from Rockauto. Part #ACDelco 1411OS. BP did not stock it, but they gave me an oil change kit as compensation.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ater+hose,6892

It did not fit exactly but it cleared the tight space and I cut it to fit the hose coming from the heater valve.

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Next on the list was installing the dash. I used some 90 degree brackets to lower the bolt attachment points so I can remove the dash if needed with the body on. I used rivet nuts on the brackets for ease of removal. I used stainless steel bolts which ties in with the black/silver look of the dash.

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I then installed a grab bar on the passenger side. I used a stainless steel bracket riveted to the frame, threaded rod, T nuts, and coupling nuts to secure it. I’m really happy with how secure it is. In the video below when I yanked on it the entire car shook which startled me. Here are the parts I used in case you want to duplicate it.

COC-LF Boat Grab Bar 304...
Qlvily 4 Packs 304 Stainless...
Hordion 12Pcs 5/16"-18 Carbon...
UPVONT Hex Coupling Nuts, Rod...

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https://youtube.com/shorts/oWpybF3GW...tSBpdDS9XuCXvG

Next was installing seat belts. I chose to go with seat belts because I feel they are safer and easier to use. When on the track you are not allowed to use a harness without a HANS device. Since I am not going to be wearing a helmet I can’t use a HANS device. I found some horizontal devices that are used in British cars that fit the bill.

https://www.angloclassiccarparts.com...uckle-e-marked

I was able to find suitable frame mounting locations for it and it works well. I could not use the FFR tabs because I had to cut those to fit my wider Kirkey seat. The side clip is too long, so I have a shorter one on order. BTW if I had to do it all again I’d go with the 17” seat FFR suggests.

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Please tell me that ultimately you will run those lap belts through the openings in the seats.

Jeff

I installed the Cobra Heat seat warmers. After speaking with them, he thought a 10 amp circuit would be fine for both warmers. The instructions mention that they need 10 amps each. We’ll see how it goes. I wired them up. The relays will go under the seats. I placed the grounds on the frame as close as possible and ran the positives through the transmission tunnel up to the upper cover. I created a harness along with some USB ports. I wired the heaters to the radio circuit and T’d the wiper circuit for the USB plugs. I then wrapped the cover and mounted the switches and ports.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Please tell me that ultimately you will run those lap belts through the openings in the seats.

Jeff

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Yes! ��

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edwardb

I'm not sure how you're measuring pinion angle. It's the angle of the engine compared to the differential. Simplest way is to measure across the harmonic balancer. Then measure the differential. Easiest is with the driveshaft off then you can measure across the flange. The pinion angle is the difference between the two. Driveshaft isn't measured. Doesn't matter if the chassis is level or not. The difference between the two measurements will be the same. Lots has been posted about this elsewhere if you want to dig deeper.

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Edwardb for the win again. I was aligning the driveshaft instead of the engine / transmission. So I did as suggested and used the diff yoke as the reference. I then measured the angle at the transmission yoke. I raised the transmission until it was close to 0. I was able to get it to .15 degrees. I then measured at the harmonic balancer and it was the same. But the driveshaft angle is now 15.9 degrees. I called FFR and the said that with IRS the diff is parallel to the frame so no need to measure anywhere else. I tested and my frame was indeed 0 degrees relative to the diff yoke. They said not to worry about the driveshaft angle, that it was fine. So now I’m off to buy an even longer bolt as I had to raise the transmission 1.5”. Crisis averted thanks again!

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Update: I had to lower the transmission as the driveshaft was hitting the e-brake bracket. The angles were still within spec.

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I tried to install the Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster. I do not think it will work without serious modification. The mounting bracket for the pedal box will block the bar from swiveling. Has anyone installed one before?
Do you agree?

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I am struggling with diagnosing my AC system. I bought a vacuum pump and gauges. I placed the gauges on the Hi/Lo ports and ran the pump. I shut off the pump. The pressure leaked. I bought different fittings to be able to isolate the issue. Before I started I decided to test the gauges. I ran the pump with the gauges disconnected and it still leaked. So I bought another set of gauges and returned the others. The new gauges had the same result. Is this a valid way to test the gauges? Could the pump be bad? Thanks for any help/advice.

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Originally Posted by rickster991

I tried to install the Wilwood Remote Bias Adjuster. I do not think it will work without serious modification. The mounting bracket for the pedal box will block the bar from swiveling. Has anyone installed one before?
Do you agree?

Attachment 220196

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I used one of these and it worked well https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-560

Same. Right angle adapter for the win.