Thanks!
Happy Saturday, everyone! I am pooped. I was in the shop at 6AM today, and tackled a bunch of stuff I've been dreading, but it honestly wasn't too bad. Things I got done today:
*Windshield installed
*Hood scoop cut out
*Hood installed
*Gapped exhaust cutouts
*Gapped the doors
*Installed door latches
*Installed gas cap
The windshield was what I was dreading most, but it was easier than I remembered from my MkIII. Maybe I'm just a better wrench now and have better tools. I used a couple of quarter round lengths to set the angle, propping them against the rear cockpit wall and the top of the windshield frame. Marked the posts, drilled them, and shortened the posts by about 3/4". I then bonded and rivnut/screwed the hood hinge brackets to the hood, and let them cure while I tackled the gas cap and gapped the doors and installed the door latches. Came back to the hood, and got it installed. It was fun trying to hold the hood while feeding in the hood bracket bolts to the hinge. Jacked up the front of the car and got under it to tighten the hinge bolts. I put a benchtop grinder on the hood to hold it in place. I dropped my ratchet/extension/socket on my head. That felt good! The door fit is pretty rough, but I didn't want to get too aggressive with gapping it, so Kleiner doesn't get mad at me. Hah! All in all a great day in the shop. Tomorrow, I'll install the exhaust hangers under the car, install the hood and trunk latches, the license plate light, and bolt down the seats. I don't think I have anything else to do after that, except wait for my turn with Jeff. I'll reach out soon to chat about timing. I suspect I'll have to wait several months, but that's okay. I'm ready for a break, and might turn my attention to painting the shop.
It's a good feeling and a bad feeling to be almost done. After nearly 2 years of planning during the week and executing on the weekends, I know I'll miss that rhythm. But as they say, these cars are never really done, and I suspect I'll tinker with it plenty over the summer.
Have a great weekend, everyone! Get out there and turn some wrenches!!!
Greg
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OK then! No stripes usually means no problem. Just don’t put your fastener holes too close to the edge of the scoop—-3/8” from edge to center of the hole is good.
Jeff
642 days.
That's how long it's been since I took delivery of my MkIV Complete Kit. Today I finished up some exterior tasks (hood and trunk latches, license plate light, exhaust hangers, rear view mirror), and for my last act that I was dreading for some reason, I bolted down the seats. I remember my MkIII was much more difficult because the frame didn't have the big plate under the floor aluminum. I used Mark Reynolds' (Breeze) seat plate that angles the seat back just a tad. Perfect fit, and easy installation.
I took the car for a 'victory lap', logging 5.3 miles. My odometer is now at a whopping 9.8 miles. Next up, alignment and registration. Should be easy in Kansas. After I got back from my drive, I parked it and took these pics, then got back in and it acted like the battery was tired...didn't want to crank, but did on the 3rd try. I recall my MkIII had this same heat soak problem, and I solved it with a starter blanket. I'll have to do that soon.
What an awesome project! As I said yesterday, I'm happy and sad...probably more sad than happy. I will miss building. Maybe I'll build another one, or maybe not. For now, I'll reach out to Jeff Kleiner and see where I am in his queue. Meantime, I'll just enjoy some nice, warm country road driving, and maybe paint my garage. Thanks to everyone on the forum who has helped me...couldn't do it without you all! What a great community.
Greg
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Looks great, can't wait to see a beautiful Kleiner paint job on it.
I have that restart issue when hot, I used the FFR provided #4 wire with the front battery location. I decided I was going to upgrade to a #2 wire for the main power.
She looks great!
The big mistake I made on my first build was getting it painted too quickly. I didn’t properly shake the car down then had to work around my really expensive paint whenever I had a bug.
What you’re doing now in the way. Log as many hours as you can. I’m going to try and find some big flame stickers or some such when I drive it in gelcoat.
Any thoughts on color?
Thanks, Jesse! I agree on working out the kinks before paint. I did the same on my first build, and drove this one without the body several times to look for leaks, etc. It's funny how nearly every task is more difficult as soon as you drop the body on.
For paint, I'm going with the color of my truck...Patriot Blue, no stripes. Attachment 212655Attachment 212654
Looks great Greg, and it's inspiring me to get through the body-fitment stage I'm currently in!
The memories of my MkIII are rushing back as I take my car on brief shakedown cruises. The sound of pebbles hitting the wheel wells, the smell of the fiberglass in the warm sun...it's like it was yesterday, despite being nearly 20 years ago. I spent an hour in the shop today, wrapping my starter in a DEI heat blanket, and adding a ground from a starter mount bolt directly to the frame. Not sure why I didn't do that before I put the body on...would've been easier than climbing under the car. Speaking of which...I'm much more careful than I was on my first build. I hate crawling under this car when it's on jack stands, and I spent hours under my first without hesitation. Today, I had my jack under the frame, two jack stands, wood under the tire, and a cinder block under the frame. Way overkill, but when working at home alone out in the country, if I got pinned, I wouldn't have anyone to help me. Anyway, today's tasks seem to have fixed my hard start on a hot engine issue.
I have to say, this Edelbrock ProFlo4 EFI system is awesome. I can't think Mike Bray enough for talking me into it vs Sniper 2. I know a lot of folks have success with Sniper, but this has been 100% (knock wood) error-free, and with only a few dozen miles on the car, it drives every bit as good as any modern car. Any throttle input, even on a cold start after sitting for several days...it just works. Thanks again, Mike.
For now, I'll just keep logging miles, and I'll get my hood scoop drilled and riveted. Thanks to Jeff Kleiner for tips on that task. I'm in good hands with you all. Love this place!
Greg
Exactly the same with me!! I don't have the ceiling height for a lift so I broke down and bought Quick Jacks. I really feel so much better with them when I'm under my car. Plus they go higher than jack stands.
Glad you're liking the ProFlo Greg, it's a good system. I'm in the very early stages of thinking about doing a 68 Camaro with a BBC. I've had a 65 Mustang but never a 1st generation Camaro and I always wanted one. Of course it will have to be EFI....
Do it, Mike! I'm already having project withdrawal. I need another. I'm thinking about buying a 4-post lift. I had one at my first house and loved it for maintenance and double parking. I had 11 foot ceilings in my first house's garage, but I only have 9 footers in my shop now. I couldn't double park, but I could get the car probably 4 feet in the air, which would still be plenty for sitting on a stool and doing oil changes and other maintenance.
Greg
I really wish I had room for a lift but my garage ceiling is only 8 or 9 ft. Above it is a big game room that my lovely wife has taken over as her work office and she seems pretty attached to it. So I'll just keep using the Quick Jacks for now.
I'm obviously a huge fan of EFI, I first started messing with it in the early 90's with the Accel/DFI systems. The software was DOS based and connected to the ECU through an RS232 serial port with a special cable you had to pay extra for. Narrow band O2 sensors (0-2000 RPM) and no self learning meant you had to be on your game. Today's systems are so advanced it's kind of scary. I'm running stacks on an IR intake and like you said it pretty much starts and runs like any modern car. Until you step on the loud pedal lol Why anyone would want to be a sadist and fool with a carburetor, especially with today's gasoline, is beyond me. I certainly don't miss gunked up carbs or having to tap on it with a screwdriver to unstick the float.
We'll see what happens with the Camaro project, just starting to look around to see what's out there.
I just bought a pair of 4 post lifts for my shop and I love them. I went with Bend Pak, and set them up myself. Took about 10 hours for the first one and about 5 hours for the second now that I figured it out. I'm sure there are other good ones out there but that is my experience. No bolting to the floor, I bought the castors so I can move them around the shop myself fully assembled.
The Proflo is definitely the way to go. Yes a lot of people have had success with the Sniper (I would assume the Sniper 2 is improved) a LOT of people have had problems with it too. It can get real buggy. Had I gone with a pushrod I would have done the same.
I hear you about jacking up the car. I used to do all kinds of stuff without thinking twice. I climbed the roof every year to clean the chimney. Now I just pay someone else to do it. It would take months for me to recover from a fall. Crazy how your perspective changes on that stuff over time.
I purchased quick jacks locally. They work great. Thanks goes to Mike for helping me spend my money!
Congrats on the "mostly, kinda done" stage!
Good to hear that you're liking the pro-flow4. My motor setup will be similar to yours (from Forte) - and I'm liking the reviews I've read here and elsewhere.
I had similar concerns about working "alone" in the shop, as mine is about 2 miles from my house. I put an Alexa in for automation purposes, but ALSO so I could yell - "Alexa, call wife" or "call 911" just in case I get REALLY screwed.....
Hope all of the shakedown drives go well!
RR
I had some time mid-day today, so I drilled and screwed in my hood scoop. Per Kleiner's recommendation, I used #8-32 3/4" screws, washers top and bottom, and nylock nuts. All holes are 3/8" in from the edge of the scoop, spaced 2 5/16" apart, with the front screws 1" from the front of the scoop. Hopefully I did that right! :) The scoop was a little saggy toward the passenger side, probably because it sat in a box on the bottom of the pile of boxes for 18 months. A word to new builders...when you take delivery of your kit, take the hood scoop out of that box and put it somewhere else! Once I snugged up all the screws, I squared it up with a light touch of the heat gun and a few stacks of rubber stock in the scoop opening. Once it cooled, it looks square.
Greg
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I've been logging short trips, and this car is just a joy to drive! I've only hit maybe 1/2 throttle in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears, but it pulls like a freight train. I can't imagine trying a WOT pull...my 30 year old self would've tried that, but my 51 year old self knows better. I'm developing my muscle memory for where my turn signal toggle sits on the dash, and it's quickly becoming second nature to turn it on, then off after a turn. So much fun! I fiddled with my Speedhut dimmer switch to get the gauges to illuminate brightly with the lights on. My only complaint with the Speedhut speedo is that I can't read the LCD odometer at all in daylight, but who really looks at that, anyway. All the gauges are working great, and I'm happy with where I've placed everything. I pretty much just watch coolant temp and oil pressure, and I suspect that vigilance will fade with time.
Have fun turning wrenches, everyone!
Greg
I’m glad your able to enjoys driving it. Takes time to get comfortable with it IMO. You have a ton of HP to play with.
I thought I'd document my build specs, in case someone finds it useful for their build. I'm sure I've forgotten some things, and I have a detailed spreadsheet of all part numbers for everything I bought to build my drivetrain. I've shared it with a few folks via email, and they've found it very helpful. Ping me if you want it.
Greg
FFR MKIV Build Specs
Chassis Number F5R1010727RD
Ordered April 2023, Delivered 7/11/23
Kit Options
IRS with Standard Koni Shocks #17120
2018 IRS 3.55 Center Section, Spindles, Hubs #16668
SBF Engine Mounts
Blank Dash
Front and Rear Sway Bars
TKX/IRS Driveshaft
Power Steering Rack
FFR SBF Headers
Black Vinyl Roadster Seats
Powdercoated Frame
Driver’s Side Powdercoated Rollbar
14” Leather Steering Wheel
Body Cutouts
Trunk Gas Strut Kit
Brakes
Wilwood 13” Front and Rear Big Brake Kit
Wilwood Electronic Park Brake
Wilwood Pedal Box and Master Cylinders
Cooling System
Kit-Supplied Radiator and Fan
Breeze Fan Shroud
Breeze Upper Radiator Hinge
Breeze Lower Radiator Support
Breeze Upper Radiator Cowl Cover
Breeze Upper and Lower Radiator Hose Kit With T-Filler and Stainless Lower Tube
Breeze Bypass Hose Kit
Canton 2 Quart Coolant Expansion and Recovery Tank #80-201
Fuel System
Pro-M Fuel Hanger with -6AN Inlet and Outlet Ports
Aeromotive Canister Fuel Filter #12317
-6AN Braided PTFE Feed and Return Fuel Lines
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator set @58PSI
Walbro 255lph #GSS340BX
Fuel Injection/Ignition System
ProFlo4 Electronic Fuel Injection System #35950
MSD Streeet Fire CD Ignition Box #5520
MSD Blaster 2 Coil #8202
MSD 8mm Plug Wires
Engine
Ford Performance Boss 427 Short Block #M-6009-427F
Trick Flow 11R 190cc Cylinder Heads #TFS-5251660
Trick Flow 1.6 Roller Rockers #TFS-51400520
Trick Flow Camshaft 275/279, Lift .499/.510 Lobe Separation 112 #TFS-51403001
FlowKooler Hi-Flow Water Pump #1660
Ford Performance Head Gaskets #M-6051-R351
Trick Flow Hydraulic Lifters #TFS-21400004
Melling High-Volume Oil Pump #M-83HV
Trick Flow Billet Steel Timing Chain Set #TFS-52578520
Milodon Pro Touring Oil Pan #31350
Milodon Oil Pump Pickup #18505
ATP Timing Cover #103004
Trick Flow Track Max Harmonic Damper #TFS-19006
Trick Flow Chromoly Pushrods #TFS-21408050
All Engine Fasteners are ARP
Transmission/Clutch
RAM Billet Steel 157-tooth Flywheel #1529
RAM Powergrip HD Clutch #98794HDT
QuickTime Bellhousing #RM-6060
Tremec TKX Transmission #TCET17765
BBK Firewall Clutch Adjuster #15050
Ford Performance Clutch Cable #M-7553-C302
Gauges
Speedhut Custom w/GPS Speedo
Wheels/Tires
FFR 19” Halibrands 18x9 Front, 18x11 Rear
Toyo Proxes R888R Tires 255/35ZR18 Front, 315/30ZR18 Rear
Power Steering
Jones Racing Power Steering Pump with External Reservoir and Cooler
Other Upgrades
Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage
Breeze Front Battery Box
Breeze Adjustable and Angled Seat Mounts
Thermo-Tec Cool-IT Heat and Sound Mat on Firewall, Entire Interior and Trunk
Mountain Metalworks Drop Trunk Tray
All Sheet Aluminum Power Coated
Energy Suspension Upper Control Arm Ball Joint Dust Covers
Master Battery Cut-off Switch
1-wire Alternator With 150AMP Circuit Breaker
Breeze LED Headlight Assembly With LED Turn Signal Bulbs
Additional Turnbuckle Support for FFR Headers Ball Flange
Mike Everson Curved Nose Aluminum Insert
Mike Everson Steering Shaft Dash Bezel
Mike Everson Roll Bar Grommets
Mike Everson Windshield Bezels
FFR Assembled Side Louvers
WeatherPak Connectors For All Illumination
Rear Cockpit Wall Cargo Net For Storage
Transmission Tunnel Cup Holders
I have two spreadsheets for my build, one with the actual prices and another with adjusted prices that I show my wife:)
Are you going to play Russian Roulette and keep those Wilwood master cylinders with all of the failures that have been reported??
Hah! I made the mistake of putting prices on everything on my drivetrain build spreadsheet. It was a bit much. But it was so much fun!
Regarding the Wilwood master cylinders...I have mixed emotions about it. I've read every post of every thread on this subject, and it put enough concern in my mind that every time I drive it, I wonder 'is this the drive where my brakes fail?'. I don't like that feeling. But then my rational mind kicks in, and just like any enthusiast forum, the vocal minority has a tendency to make the issue seem worse than it is. That's not to say that a failed master cylinder isn't a huge safety concern, but I tend to think the odds are in my favor that mine will be fine. As you know, Mike, I just took delivery of a 2017 GT350 with only 4700 miles on it, and I love the car, but joining a GT350 enthusiasts forum makes me nervous to drive the car, due to all the reported engine issues on that forum. But then there's tons of folks who chime in and beat the tar out of their cars and never had an issue. It's like looking up some sort of health symptom you have online; it's all doom and gloom.
My FFR will sit, save the occasional romp around the neighborhood, until Kleiner gets to it later this year. There's a better than fair chance I'll get idle hands at some point, and replace them. I don't want to debate the Wilwood MCs in my build thread, so this is just where my head is at right now.
Greg
You are correct, the odds are in your favor. Just like the odds are in my favor that my cat will never kill me in my sleep. The issue I have with the Wilwood MCs is the number of (reported) failures from a relatively small case study of Factory Five cars. Some have failed right out of the box! It is a simple hydraulic plunger, the reliability rating should be at least 4 nines if not 5 nines. In other words one failure in millions like you see in OEM cars. Wilwood have a fundamental design and quality issue and have had for decades. I know this from first hand experience when my first Cobra almost went through my garage wall from a clutch MC failure.
FWIW my friend.
I hear you, buddy. Like I said...I've read all the posts about this. Don't want to debate it in my build thread.
I had a very emotional, full-circle moment this evening with my car that I have to tell you all about. Ok, golden hour, and my 20 year old son, James, wants to take my recently-purchased 2017 GT350 around the neighborhood. No problem...he drove my C7 Z06 with a manual transmission, around the neighborhood, without me in the car, at 15 years old. He did a great job with the GT350. So, I thought, he hasn't been in the FFR yet, so let's take a drive. So, we got in it, had to show him how to strap into the belts, etc, and we were on our way. We took a short 10 mile drive at just the perfect time of evening, out in the country with zero traffic. It was beautiful. Now, this kid is a car (actually truck) nut, but knows all about every performance car on the road. While driving, I gave it maybe 1/2 throttle in most gears, and he was duly impressed. He was asking about how much throttle input I was giving it, and could tell it was wandering because it hasn't been aligned yet, and even said he could smell the tires due to the alignment. Hah! It was a poignant moment for me, because the last time he was in an FFR with me was my MkIII, and, well, he was very small. He would fall asleep in my MkIII, in his car seat, in minutes. This, my friends, is the essence of what these cars are about. We had so much fun together, and that's what matters. Here's a few pics of James, from my MkIII build days, and him in my MkIV last March (2024) when I first put the tires on it. My heart is full. These cars that FFR offer us are so much more than just a car. It's a lifestyle. And for those of us who truly embrace it, it transcends just being a vehicle. It's a family heirloom. It's bonding. It's magic.
Greg
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Very Cool Greg. Just before I read your note I sent pics to my kids of the hood and trunk lid on my car. Sharing the cars with our family and friends is what it’s all about.
That’s a special moment Greg! I’m looking forward to this with my kids as well! Thanks for sharing
/Sam
Awesome moment….
Full circle indeed!