Roadracer's #997 build

Hmm, I cannot get my speedo to register speed. I went through the calibration process, drove a 2 mile distance and it acted the right way all the way through..

- It moves to halfway when power turned on
- it moves to full speed when entering calibration mode
- stays at halfway during calibration (BUT nothing shows on LCD.. seems it should be counting)
- when I stop calibration it shows 16000 on the LCD for a second (which seems to be the default 16,000 pulses/ mile it comes with).

So I'm think it's the sender or the wiring this time.

The sender seemed very easy to fit and wire up to my new TKO600 from Mike Forte at the time - this is a photo I took. I'll lift up the car and take a closer look..

Attachment 142588

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Hmm, I cannot get my speedo to register speed. I went through the calibration process, drove a 2 mile distance and it acted the right way all the way through..

- It moves to halfway when power turned on
- it moves to full speed when entering calibration mode
- stays at halfway during calibration (BUT nothing shows on LCD.. seems it should be counting)
- when I stop calibration it shows 16000 on the LCD for a second (which seems to be the default 16,000 pulses/ mile it comes with).

So I'm think it's the sender or the wiring this time.

The sender seemed very easy to fit and wire up to my new TKO600 from Mike Forte at the time - this is a photo I took. I'll lift up the car and take a closer look..

Attachment 142588

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Did you ground the grey "speedo return" wire?

Steve

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Originally Posted by FF33rod

Did you ground the grey "speedo return" wire?

Steve

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I honestly don't remember how this went together Steve. There's nothing in my manuals (2R or 3G) about this, so I probably winged it. I don't remember if I had to make a connection somewhere or if that plug came on the loom. Studying the wiring loom diagram now..

I think that the sensor that connects to the mechanical speedo drive should be a 3 wire sensor - at least according to the instructions that came with my Classic Instrument gauges. I have a TKO but am using the electronic signal generator (hall effect I believe) mounted on the other side of the trans which is a 2 wire hook up with 1 wire (either one) connected to the speedo and the other to ground.

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

I honestly don't remember how this went together Steve. There's nothing in my manuals (2R or 3G) about this, so I probably winged it. I don't remember if I had to make a connection somewhere or if that plug came on the loom. Studying the wiring loom diagram now..

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Steve, you're a star. I still don't see where it tells you to ground the grey, but I had just put a heatsleeve over it. I've grounded it now and went for a spin - and the speedo works great! Thanks for the help.

Any idea how many gallons the tank holds? Someone was guessing that it was about 13.

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Originally Posted by JimLev

Any idea how many gallons the tank holds? Someone was guessing that it was about 13.

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Yes I think that’s pretty close, maybe 12.5. I’d put in a full 5 gallon in last week and then today added another 7.5 at the gas station.

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Steve, you're a star. I still don't see where it tells you to ground the grey, but I had just put a heatsleeve over it. I've grounded it now and went for a spin - and the speedo works great! Thanks for the help.

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Glad I was able to help. Not sure how I discovered that, after 2 years of building things become blurry. I think they intentionally kept it that way to accommodate a number of different scenarios (ECUs, sender units, etc). The schematic diagram is the clue though - clearly shows it is connected to nothing else....

On the tank, both the FFR and the Boyd tanks are around 13 gallons as others have said.

Cheers
Steve

I have a wiper now. I hate this thing (hate that I have to have it), which is why it's almost the last thing to do before the inspection.

It'll be coming off immediately afterward :D

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Looking good James! Is that a manual wiper just to get passed the inspection? I was debating that myself on our Roadster.

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

I have a wiper now. I hate this thing (hate that I have to have it), which is why it's almost the last thing to do before the inspection.

It'll be coming off immediately afterward :D

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Originally Posted by bldr.rob

Looking good James! Is that a manual wiper just to get passed the inspection? I was debating that myself on our Roadster.

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Well, almost. It's the very cheap very basic speedway motor. Has a switch built-in, so I just ran some wires up to it.

If I was running a roadster windshield like you are, I would have gone for the even simpler model!

I pulled out the vinyl roll and asked my wife to sew up a shifter boot since I’d lost mine and FFR don’t have any right now. I took measurements from a speedway motors pic (looks same as FFR) - 7.25” wide and high. Pretty simple for her to do and I think it’ll fit great.

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This shows a quick prototype out of some scrap

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I love driving this thing. #driveitlikeyoustoleit

I got around to shortening the throttle cable today - bought a dremel cutting disc and it worked perfectly. Pulled out the inner, cut the outer to 12" long, then played with pedal angles and carb holes to make sure I could get full travel plus a little. Ended up having to rotate the pedal on the splines, then using a mid-range hole on both carb and pedal. Cut the inner and used the supplied ends which worked really well. Feels better now it doesn't have a 3ft loop.

I also fitted my wife's shifter boot, and it worked great.

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Took it out for a drive since we're all going a little stir crazy in TX. First day with dry roads for a week or more. Except not dry enough apparently.. I drove through a quite deep and very muddy puddle on side of road and realized - I NEVER THINK ABOUT PUDDLES! That'll have to change with a fenderless hotrod.

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Well, almost. It's the very cheap very basic speedway motor. Has a switch built-in, so I just ran some wires up to it.

If I was running a roadster windshield like you are, I would have gone for the even simpler model!

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Took a picture of the wiper..Attachment 143161

A quick video taken by my daughter while I drove around this afternoon. Some inside video coming soon..

https://youtu.be/IQ6ihuXLD_0

I installed the supplied handbrake cover today before I bolted in the seats. I had to bend the wire 90º in a couple of places but it fit well enough for me after that.

Attachment 143185

My wife then finished making up a foam and vinyl cover for my hinged armrest and I got the seats installed on the breeze tilted brackets.

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All I'm waiting on now is mirrors, then I can get the car inspected..

Downloaded 11mins from GoPro of pretty boring driving around the neighborhood (no hooning until I get a feel for it :D) - jump to 5:00 for the shower scene - just a little muddy water covered the whole car.

https://youtu.be/DvxFDMOuA0c

My order from Demon Tweeks took 2.5 months to get to me from UK - but they are here. I fitted them today and took them for a 10-mile celebration drive - much less worry about cops when you can see behind you :D

I drilled and bolted the side mirrors (which have convex glass) to the hardtop since it's never coming off and I figured it would be more stable there than the door which is always moving/slamming. Did the normal big black cap on the inside skin. The rear view mirror isn't convex, but it's wide enough to see almost the entire back window.

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One step closer today - made a 30mile roundtrip to an alignment shop. It drove very well up to 70 on way there - 80 on way back. All I'd done was the string alignment but it was pretty close. The caster on one wheel was all that was way out.

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They also fitted my new tires to the back and moved the rears to the front, so my car is officially 'square' now. It was 275 front, 285 rear, but now all 285/35R-19.

For those interested, here are the results.

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It made a big difference in one thing - slow turning. The 285's are almost easy to turn now! That one bad caster I guess? Or may the new tires that aren't worn-out slicks like the old ones.

One thing I HAVE TO CHANGE - during the 30 miles I must have grounded the rear tires to the body a dozen or more times. I could smell the rubber each time. The rear is definitely going up 0.5-1.0 inches! (FWIW, I don't think it'll affect the alignment numbers too much, a 0.5" raise over a 9' wheel base is only 0.25º I think - and only affects caster?)

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

One step closer today - made a 30mile roundtrip to an alignment shop. It drove very well up to 70 on way there - 80 on way back. All I'd done was the string alignment but it was pretty close. The caster on one wheel was all that was way out.

They also fitted my new tires to the back and moved the rears to the front, so my car is officially 'square' now. It was 275 front, 285 rear, but now all 285/35R-19.

For those interested, here are the results.

It made a big difference in one thing - slow turning. The 285's are almost easy to turn now! That one bad caster I guess? Or may the new tires that aren't worn-out slicks like the old ones.

One thing I HAVE TO CHANGE - during the 30 miles I must have grounded the rear tires to the body a dozen or more times. I could smell the rubber each time. The rear is definitely going up 0.5-1.0 inches! (FWIW, I don't think it'll affect the alignment numbers too much, a 0.5" raise over a 9' wheel base is only 0.25º I think - and only affects caster?)

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Hi James

I'm aware of quite a few @home alignment tricks, but what is the string alignment method your referring to? I've used string for toe before, curious on the alignment part...I may want to try that.

Jim

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Originally Posted by 33fromSD

Hi James

I'm aware of quite a few @home alignment tricks, but what is the string alignment method your referring to? I've used string for toe before, curious on the alignment part...I may want to try that.

Jim

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Right, just for setting rough toe-in. I also did rough camber with a level. But I didn't have any rough-n-ready caster ideas, so that was the one that was WAY out.

From my earlier build notes "Centered the steering ball joints, then wound in/out the steering arms, and adjusted the rear LCA to get rough camber".

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Right, just for setting rough toe-in. I also did rough camber with a level. But I didn't have any rough-n-ready caster ideas, so that was the one that was WAY out.

From my earlier build notes "Centered the steering ball joints, then wound in/out the steering arms, and adjusted the rear LCA to get rough camber".

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got it...Thanks... Jim

Went for a nice drive in the country to get weighed.. I'm trying to pick almost the furthest location when I need to get something done :D This was a 40 mile roundtrip, cross country on a beautiful day.

Pick up my business partner for my first passenger

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Got in line behind the trucks

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and here's the result!

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2280lbs.. I must admit I thought it would be less. I have no creature comforts, no side glass, no sound-deadening or carpet - but sure, there's a hardtop, full tank and an iron block/head SBC, fat radials.

Must be the windshield wiper motor ;)

Lighter than mine though. I weighed it in roadster version with hood and side covers, no side windows. It did have the heater&A/C, lizard skin for heat & sound as well as the FFR insulation package

Steve

I got the ASE inspection today, which was beyond easy. Over in 20 minutes and he signed everything off with just a cursory inspection. I was expecting something much scarier. I think I have everything now to start back on the government side of the process.

Driving was interesting.. went perfectly for first 10 miles and then suddenly started coughing like out of gas while driving up a hill. I have a mechanical pump that I use while driving and an electrical one I use to fill the float bowls if needed to start.. well I knocked on the electrical pump and the problem cleared up. I'm thinking my mechanical pump has a problem.

After the inspection, while I was driving along the highway, I knocked off the electrical and again seems like there's something going on.. and didn't the car smell extra gassy today? Anyway, still drove 80 just fine.

Got home, and stepped out of the car - there's a trail of dots down the driveway, and a growing stain under the car. There's a slow leak somewhere, and I suspect all the electrical pump did is push more gas past the leak to the motor. Tonight is date night, so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. Still fun though, now I'm in bug-fixing mode.

Hey James

Following your process with getting your ride legal. I'm probably 4-5 months behind you on my Coupe. Was curious on where you were going to get a good shop that knows how to do alignment as well as the weight. Thanks for the Pics on those locations. Now for the last few bits. where did you find the ASE Inspector? Ive been asking around shops in Bastrop trying to find one, no luck From here i will be following you on the licensing process and how it goes. Thanks Doug

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Originally Posted by dstelter

Hey James

Following your process with getting your ride legal. I'm probably 4-5 months behind you on my Coupe. Was curious on where you were going to get a good shop that knows how to do alignment as well as the weight. Thanks for the Pics on those locations. Now for the last few bits. where did you find the ASE Inspector? I've been asking around shops in Bastrop trying to find one, no luck From here I will be following you on the licensing process and how it goes. Thanks Doug

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No worries Doug. I got the alignment and ASE inspection done at the same place - Excalibur Auto https://excaliburautorepair.com/ - speak to Mike. They've done a lot of these ASE inspections. They did a Superformance Cobra yesterday. Friendly, helpful, and cheap. The weight I did in Taylor at Williamson County Grain just because it's a lovely country road and a farmer friend said they got weighed when picking up grain. Great location for us car guys because it has no step/lip.. just drive onto a smooth surface. I was worried about ground clearance. Cost $8!

It's a little scary and I keep expecting to be stopped, but no sniff of police yet. I got a 30-day temporary tag and insurance so I'm not illegal, but I'm still only doing drives for a reason (alignment, weight, inspection) .. not wanting to push it and go for coffee just in case :D

BTW Doug, I'm not sure what threads you've been following but the key docs are ones that are really hard to find by searching google for tx registration etc. "RBT" is the trick..

search for RTB 010-20 (make sure you find one dated June 11, 2020) and RTB 004-12 (seems to be on forums but not on TXgov anymore)

The latest 010-20 is gold, because they made some changes in the process.

Thanks for the info James. I found the RTB 010-20 and TRB004-12. bookmarked them. Doug

Ok, I found a SNAFU in the process.. not sure yet whether it was my mistake or theirs, I will get to look into this tonight hopefully.

I showed up at the DMV - you have to make an appointment here, and they only give you 1 day of options, so you have to look at 12:01 AM each day to find a spot. Anyway, I got there with all my paperwork and they started checking them off. We got to the VTR-68A "an inspection conducted by a law enforcement officer to verify the identify of a vehicle for registration purposes" - basically a VIN check (from what I can tell).

I hadn't done this step because RTB 010-20's sample letter shows this - my implication was that only one of the checkboxes was needed, and I have the MSO, and I don't need "an assigned number".

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Anyway, they sent me away for the CTR-68A, and then I find that there is nowhere in Austin to do this, and I have to make an appt in a nearby county and there is a THREE WEEK WAITING LIST. Yes, my appt for this is 3/29. UGH..

If I can find justification for not needing this form, I'll go back to DMV and plead my case.. nothing to lose!

If it had been "radio-boxes" you would have only needed to select one, obviously this being check boxes, they all needed to be ticked... :D

It is a tick the box exercise afterall....

RJ

I never mentioned the fuel leak.. when I looked Sunday and turned on the electric pump there was a huge stream of gas pumping out the weep holes in the top of the mechanical pump. Apparently means a damaged diaphragm.. on a new pump with 150 Miles on it.

So I ran to the store and grabbed a new one, and spent 3 frustrating hours fitting it. The inlet and outlet weren’t in same place and there was interference with the chassis, and the casting was thicker so I needed longer bolts. Anyway it was a pain but it’s in now and working great again.

I took a trip into town today to pick up a renewal of my 30-day temporary registration. In TX you're allowed 3 of these, for 90 days driving while you get all the title/reg stuff sorted.

Went fine, in-and-out, $29.75 cash. The car is driving well, much less tramlining since adjusting the rear tire pressures. Now running ~20-22 all around. Got it up to 90mph today briefly and building confidence.

Any excuse for prolonging the drive, I went to Specs to pick up some booze the missus said we were low on.

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Coming back on a bumpy section of 290 I still bottomed out at the rear, so I may add another 1/4" to the rear shocks. It's happening a lot less, but I'd like it to stop altogether so I don't get sudden loss of traction.

Also remember that if you are bottoming out occasionally driving by yourself, you are likely to bottom out more often with a passenger - if you choose to let people ride with you :p

I've heard of this issue before, but until recently hadn't seen it myself. But now with some miles on the car, there's a bit of slop in the last UJ as it attaches to the rack. All the other joints are pretty tight and slop-free.

But this last one needs some work. The input side from the column is great. The output side to the rack actually wobbles a little - not just loose in a turning motion, but seems to be loose side-to-side. Both set screws were already as tight as I can get them. I suppose it's impractical to think I can drill straight through the UJ and rack shaft, and that would require drilling off the car so would be hard to get accurate anyway.

Suggestions?

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Mileage: 329

I've heard of this issue before, but until recently hadn't seen it myself. But now with some miles on the car, there's a bit of slop in the last UJ as it attaches to the rack. All the other joints are pretty tight and slop-free.

But this last one needs some work. The input side from the column is great. The output side to the rack actually wobbles a little - not just loose in a turning motion, but seems to be loose side-to-side. Both set screws were already as tight as I can get them. I suppose it's impractical to think I can drill straight through the UJ and rack shaft, and that would require drilling off the car so would be hard to get accurate anyway.

Suggestions?

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Hi James

Is it the UJ itself (meaning defective) or do you think it's in the intersection where the shaft is inserted in the UJ end? You could always try dimpling the shaft by drilling into it slightly so the set screw goes slightly deeper.

Jim

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Originally Posted by 33fromSD

Hi James

Is it the UJ itself (meaning defective) or do you think it's in the intersection where the shaft is inserted in the UJ end? You could always try dimpling the shaft by drilling into it slightly so the set screw goes slightly deeper.

Jim

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Yeah, I had done the drill dimpling part, but of course the set screws aren't there for tightening per se, more for security? The splines should be the primary engagement. It seems that it's just not engaged deep enough, which is why it's wobbly side-to-side. I'm not worried really because it can't come apart, but I would like to get rid of the wobble. thinking

But it's a good point, reminding me of the dimpling. That has marked the shaft where I could drill it accurately in a drill press.

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Yeah, I had done the drill dimpling part, but of course the set screws aren't there for tightening per se, more for security? The splines should be the primary engagement. It seems that it's just not engaged deep enough, which is why it's wobbly side-to-side. I'm not worried really because it can't come apart, but I would like to get rid of the wobble. thinking

But it's a good point, reminding me of the dimpling. That has marked the shaft where I could drill it accurately in a drill press.

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Another option which I've seen guys do on other forums with success (haven't seen it on FFR yet) is you could put a dab or two of JB weld on the end of the UJ onto the shaft to fuse the two together. That way you could still remove it later in life (It may fight you a bit coming apart if you have to remove it, but it will come apart).

Jim

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Originally Posted by 33fromSD

Another option which I've seen guys do on other forums with success (haven't seen it on FFR yet) is you could put a dab or two of JB weld on the end of the UJ onto the shaft to fuse the two together. That way you could still remove it later in life (It may fight you a bit coming apart if you have to remove it, but it will come apart).

Jim

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Good idea, I've never used it myself. Certainly easier than drilling. I want to take it apart when I have a chance to make sure it is engaged 'enough' - if not perhaps I can get a longer bar and move closer to the rack.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by RoadRacer

Good idea, I've never used it myself. Certainly easier than drilling. I want to take it apart when I have a chance to make sure it is engaged 'enough' - if not perhaps I can get a longer bar and move closer to the rack.

Thanks

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If memory serves me right I believe you should be able to look from the back of the UJ (in through the joint) to see how far the shaft is engaged. That would save you from taking it apart at least if it turned out to be in far enough.

Also, JB weld is good stuff... I've used it on several applications......sets in 15 minutes, fully cured in 30. Jim