Star Mobile 1 Build

I have spent the last few evenings cleaning up the "mess" from the upper radiator hose blowing off. I had purchased a set of aftermarket hoses to use for the upper and lowers that, in all honesty, were no different than what FFR supplied with the kit. They were convoluted stainless and still utilized the rubber spacers to adapt to multiple sizes, but they had chrome covers for the clamps, so I opted for them. It looks to me like either I didn't have it tight enough or ultimately it slid out of the rubber spacers. I am going to go back with the same set up, but I have purchased some better quality clamps, that are rounded on the bottom edge and allow for proper torquing around the entire hose instead of just at the worm screw. My intent is to try this one more time with the "dress up" hose and if it fails again I am going to go back with silicone hoses at the proper diameters for the inlet and outlet tubes. It may take me a little time and research to find the preformed hoses and lengths I need, but at that point I think it would be worth it...stay tuned!

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Originally Posted by JOP33

I have spent the last few evenings cleaning up the "mess" from the upper radiator hose blowing off. I had purchased a set of aftermarket hoses to use for the upper and lowers that, in all honesty, were no different than what FFR supplied with the kit. They were convoluted stainless and still utilized the rubber spacers to adapt to multiple sizes, but they had chrome covers for the clamps, so I opted for them. It looks to me like either I didn't have it tight enough or ultimately it slid out of the rubber spacers. I am going to go back with the same set up, but I have purchased some better quality clamps, that are rounded on the bottom edge and allow for proper torquing around the entire hose instead of just at the worm screw. My intent is to try this one more time with the "dress up" hose and if it fails again I am going to go back with silicone hoses at the proper diameters for the inlet and outlet tubes. It may take me a little time and research to find the preformed hoses and lengths I need, but at that point I think it would be worth it...stay tuned!

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If I can suggest a possible solution that I used to get very close hoses, you may want to consider browsing through the Dayco site (http://www.daycoproducts.com/) and visually you will be able to set the parameters for the hose (use this link to start: http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=10) add in the parameters and from that you can view the photos and measurements that correspond. I have a local parts supplier that has worked with me on sourcing mine and in the end I found a real close fit for the Rad hoses. Be patient and you will find that great match for sure. Once you have the product ID# you can then source the corrugated equivalent or racing equivalent.
This is the top hose I found this way. Attachment 97085

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Originally Posted by AJT '33

If I can suggest a possible solution that I used to get very close hoses, you may want to consider browsing through the Dayco site (http://www.daycoproducts.com/) and visually you will be able to set the parameters for the hose (use this link to start: http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=10) add in the parameters and from that you can view the photos and measurements that correspond. I have a local parts supplier that has worked with me on sourcing mine and in the end I found a real close fit for the Rad hoses. Be patient and you will find that great match for sure. Once you have the product ID# you can then source the corrugated equivalent or racing equivalent.
This is the top hose I found this way. Attachment 97085

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Thanks for the input AJT...I will definitely look into this.

Well my last intentions were to stay with the dress up radiator hose one more time...honestly, it was such a pain to clean up after the hose blew I went ahead and opted for an alternative set-up. I thought I would be able to use Continental Flex Hoses, however they flex MUCH less than you would expect with them be called Flex Hose...

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So then I found the Dayco Flex Hose at a local auto parts store and was extremely impressed with this product...

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It was very easy to work with and I had also upgraded to some compression clamps...

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In fact, I was so impressed with it I decided to go ahead and replace the lower hose as well. The only issue here was that I needed 34" and the longest flex hose I came across was 23.5". I ended up getting the 23.5" and a 11.63" lengths and connected them together with a 1-3/4" hose connector. When all was said and done I was pretty happy with it and felt much better about using them over the stainless hose with the cover. As nice as the stainless hose looked, it seemed to really pull at the clamps (meaning even when I thought I had it very tight I could still twist the hose a bit). So functionality won out over aesthetics (this time)...

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Let me be clear, I have never heard anything negative about the stainless hose and I have seen many people use them (I assume successfully), but for me I opted for the traditional rubber hoses. I might add that the Dayco Flex hoses have a spring built into them to keep them from collapsing and allow you to bend them pretty tightly. I did fill the radiator back up with 50/50 and ran it for about five minutes with no leaks (the overflow did burp a little).

As I had mentioned previously, when I go carted, I had some issues with my brake (I think it mainly stemmed from me riding a half a mile with the e-brake engaged). I took the rear wheels off to inspect the brakes and didn't really see anything out of the ordinary. I was going to lube the caliper slides, but they had lube and boots on them already. So at this point I basically just freed the brakes up and re-installed the calipers. Since I had the wheels off I went ahead and installed the 1/2" wheel spacers I had purchased. The offset on these wheels were just a little higher than the recommended so I had gotten these to help with spacing a bit. I actually had not encountered in issues so far in the back (although the body had not been on yet), but in the front I did notice (turning from lock to lock) the tires might want to rub a bit. These were very easy to install as well...

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I was going to try and get the car out again today, but it's a little cool here, so I am hoping for a bit warmer day in the near future. I have several small items that I want to clean up before I turn it over to paint and body in February. Kory Ritter from 121 Rods & Restorations will be doing the body work and paint. He is also going to do all of the fit-up on all panels...since I have had two previous back surgeries I am happy to let him do it. I will continue to post any updates or mods that I do over the next few months though.

There are Ford spacers available for the rack and pinion system to limit the turn radius and stop the rubbing, I have the part number from when I addressed the same issue, if you want to do that instead of a spacer. The wheel dish or effective dish will create steering issues such as hunting in ruts or uneven paved roads that rutted from trucks. Your alignment shop may be able to comment on that issue.

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Originally Posted by donshapansky

There are Ford spacers available for the rack and pinion system to limit the turn radius and stop the rubbing, I have the part number from when I addressed the same issue, if you want to do that instead of a spacer. The wheel dish or effective dish will create steering issues such as hunting in ruts or uneven paved roads that rutted from trucks. Your alignment shop may be able to comment on that issue.

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I think that might be a better option...what part number is that?

Thanks

JOP33,
I got mine from CJ Pony Parts, part number N-804842-S.
They stopped all the rubbing on the frame tube.
Bob

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Originally Posted by donshapansky

...The wheel dish or effective dish will create steering issues such as hunting in ruts or uneven paved roads that rutted from trucks..

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Thanks for the reminder... I've forgotten how offset and scrub radius affect the steering. Just when I think I settled on a set of wheels!!! I need to figure out the proper offset for the front.

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Originally Posted by TxMike64

Thanks for the reminder... I've forgotten how offset and scrub radius affect the steering. Just when I think I settled on a set of wheels!!! I need to figure out the proper offset for the front.

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Just remember, if you change the offset you've now also changed the backspace - no big deal if you're not going max size tires as there will be some wiggle room. However, if you are going max size then you're either into the body or going to be modifying fenders (if you're running them).

Sorry I thought I had kept the package from Ford, but I can't seem to find it. If I recall there were 4 per package I ordered 2 packages and used 7 of the 8 spacers. It was fairly easy just remove the boots at the end of the rack and insert around the shaft into the housing and check after 2 or 3 to see if the limits have changed on one side then do the other.

Thanks guys for all the input...ordering the parts now.

Got up this morning and ran the car for about 10 minutes, seem to start and run ok. No leaks from the hoses , but I don't believe the temp came up much as it was just idling. Did burp out about 8oz of water from the over flow. So the manual states to fill the overflow about half full (and then of course it burped out some), is this just a continuous cycle...trying to keep it half full and just cleaning up, checking and refilling each drive? I know that there have been several post about the overflow being undersized. I guess my real question is how critical is it that the reservoir maintains a certain level of fluid or should the radiator being topped off be the real focus? Hope to try and get it out in the neighborhood later, will post if I do.

Thanks

As the coolant heats up it expands and if there is not enough room for expansion the pressure builds until the radiator cap allows some to puke out the overflow tube. In the olden days when cars came with no recovery tanks we used the top tank on a down-flow radiator as an expansion tank. Fill the radiator X" below the top and it allowed the coolant to expand. You could fill the radiator and run the car and allow the coolant to puke out (we wern't very focused on the environment back then). Once it cooled you simply open the cap and take note of where the cold coolant level was and that was your cold fill level. That still works but times have changed.

Modern cars now have cross-flow radiators and expansion tanks (or degas tanks) that allow for expansion without coolant puking out the overflow. In the years between we had recovery tanks which is what you're using. The recovery tank would catch coolant that puked out the overflow and retain it until the cooling system returned to ambient temp which would now create a vacuum in the radiator. Use of a check valve in the radiator cap allowed ambient air pressure to force coolant caught in a recovery tank to flow back into the radiator. And the cycle would start all over.

If you want to run your radiator full when cold then the recovery tank that came with your kit is likely not large enough for the total expansion of your system. When cold, the recovery tank only needs enough coolant to cover the return hose port to prevent from sucking air. I ran the calculation on expansion to determine the size recovery tank needed for my system -- but that is specific to my application, not a general rule for size. If you're not into calculating expansion rates you can simply pick a larger size recovery tank and through trial & error determine what works. Or you could go old school and leave an air space in the radiator top tank to allow for expansion and use the recovery tank for excess capacity. If you're worried about cooling capacity by not running your radiator full, think about it. How much cooling is the expanded coolant in the recovery tank providing?

Thanks NAZ for the input...love all of this info guys! Here is a pic of my puddle...:p

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Also have an issue with the indicator lights staying on as soon as battery is connected...

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I know that I have seen a thread on this issue before. FFR says I need to have the lights actually connected (and maybe that is so), but I am a little skeptical of that answer. I have been proving wrong many times on this build though.

I did get the car out in the sun a bit today...not on the road but a little sun...

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And then back into the shop...

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Actually wanted to get the car back in the shop the right way and on the lift, so late Saturday I just drove it out the drive and intended to back it up turn it around and head it back in (nose first). When I went to back up the car died on me...started it twice more for it to only run for a few seconds then die. After that it wouldn't turn over. Had to pull it back into the drive to get it straight then I was able to just push it back into the shop. Seems to me that it is something fuel line related. Earlier that morning it ran for about ten minutes without stopping, but about every 20 - 30 seconds it would act like it was going to die (but never did). It's still running off the original set-up from Engine Factory (I haven't made any adjustments there...yet). So maybe this week I'll get a better idea of what it could be. I will try to get it idling again and check the fuel pressure and see if it drops any. Just spit balling here, but I thought it might be the fuel lines. They travel along lower tube of the passenger side chassis then jut up at the firewall to the EFI system. Don't know if they push of fuel up could be an issue (again spit balling here). I also just removed some zip ties along the fuel lines and went back with some insulated clamps...maybe a pinch there? Anyway, will try and work through it this week. If ya'll have any ideas on this don't hesitate to offer feedback.

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Thanks

I have been working on a few things this weekend. I had an issue the last time I tried to run the vehicle with it dieing on me. I haven't been able to get it to restart since. My thoughts were that I had an issue with the fuel line (somewhere). When I try to start the vehicle the fuel pressure gauge was only registering around 40 psi (s/b 58.5). I had been wanting to change the lines I used out, so no better time than the present. When I started taking everything out I notice a slight kink in the feed line. I don't know that this was the issue, but very well could have been. Since it had been a new tank as well I took the time to go ahead and replace the filters (at the suggestion of MBB Larry). So things went pretty well no issues replacing anything, but went to crank it up today and I can hear that the fuel pump is not coming on. The plan for later today is to confirm I am getting power, check the fuse on the pump and go from there.

Confirmed this weekend that the Holley Fuel Pump went out. For what reason I am not sure of as it had less than thirty minutes of run time on it. I always showed good pressure until it went out. I reached out to Engine Factory and they are sending a new one at a competitive price to me, and pending RMA from Holley, will credit my purchase of the new one to reflect Holley's disposition. Let me just say that Engine Factory has been extremely helpful throughout my build. From the technical side of things down to the small hiccups that I expected to encounter along the process, they have been there every time and responded in a timely manner! Would definitely recommend them to any builder looking for an engine package. Hope to get the new pump re-installed in the next few days.

I have the pump, pre-filter and post filter installed on a piece of angle that I mounted to the horizontal tube that runs above the tube where the factory location for the battery is...

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As mentioned previously, while I had everything disassembled, I went ahead and replaced both fuel filters (just in case) and took the opportunity to rerun the fuel lines. I shortened the length a bit and went with a hose that was less likely to kink during routing. I also replaced the fuel return line where I had cut it to install a fuel pressure gauge :mad:...and then realized that I wasn't cutting the flow side (where the gauge should be). So I removed that splice and changed the location of the gauge and the hangers I was using. I haven't replaced the heat shielding as of yet until I re-install the pump.

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I also dove into the issue with the E-Brakes sticking. MBB Larry had just taken ownership of his new 33' kit in Grapevine, Tx and had invited me over to see his progress. He is doing a great job on his build and making some good progress. He showed me how smoothly his e-brake cables were moving and as soon as I saw his I knew something was up with mine. He had sprayed some liquid teflon on the inner cable and worked them back and forth for a bit. So I purchased some spray silicon and lubed the cable as well on mine (something I had not even thought of before). So I clamped both ends of the cable to the workbench and sprayed both ends while working the sheathing back and forth for about 10 minutes on each cable (I felt like I was Alpine Skiing). Both seem to be moving more freely now (not quite as smooth as Larry's but much better than before). I also altered my cable routing slightly.

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With the wheels & tires I was running I had added some 1/2" wheel spacers in the front to keep them from rubbing. After some input from a couple other builders, I decided to install some Rack Limiters instead. Very easy to install, and took care of the issue and allowed me to remove the spacers...

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I also had a visitor to the shop this weekend. The gentleman that will be painting the vehicle, installing doors, top, etc. came out to get a look the body on the 33' and just review the build. Kory, the same painter that did WRP's (Green) 33' will be doing this one as well. He had a lot of great suggestions and gave me some good pointers on few smaller things I need to finish up. We discussed the Fender dilemma...only a dilemma because I (other builders please don't be offended, my opinion only, for my vehicle...:cool:) am not a fan of the fendered look on the 33', however each day I am trying to open myself of to the realization that I will probably need fenders to protect this paint. So logically and financially it is the right thing to do...I am just having some issues coming to grips with it:rolleyes:! But it does make sense. Kory threw out a few ideas to work with on the fenders and I will be contemplating those from now until I decide. New fuel pump should be here today and I hope to get that back in and this thing cranked back up in the near future.

New Fuel Pump did make it in and immediately put voltage to it using my cordless drill battery and it winded up quickly...so I am good on the pump. I did however check the wiring going to the pump in the car and for some reason or another I am not getting 12v at the pump. I checked the relay and the relay is good and working as well as the fuse. I will need to chase down the 12v and ground wires and see where I am losing power at...of course this means removing the seats, trans tunnel, e-brake :( to check the wires. This has me re-thinking the current routing of the wires under the trans tunnel :rolleyes:. I am hoping it is something simple like a connector as the pump had been getting plenty of power previously...at least until it wasn't :p. Stay tuned...

How about the switch that shuts down power to the fuel pump if the car rolls over, can't remember the real name of it.

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Originally Posted by JimLev

How about the switch that shuts down power to the fuel pump if the car rolls over, can't remember the real name of it.

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Good point Jim! It (inertia switch) is depressed, but I have not checked it to make sure it is actually working. I will though! Thanks

Question for you on the steering stops since you put some in. I bought the same ones you used earlier in this thread. Did you just remove the boot and clip one on either side? I bought two and clipped them on either side. The driver side now is fine but the passenger side is not. Just to double check, I put both clips on the passenger side and it still does not stop before hitting the A-arm. I'm wondering what your experience was, did you just put one on either side? I haven't done any sort of wheel alignment yet but I don't think it would be that far off.

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Originally Posted by fostia

Question for you on the steering stops since you put some in. I bought the same ones you used earlier in this thread. Did you just remove the boot and clip one on either side? I bought two and clipped them on either side. The driver side now is fine but the passenger side is not. Just to double check, I put both clips on the passenger side and it still does not stop before hitting the A-arm. I'm wondering what your experience was, did you just put one on either side? I haven't done any sort of wheel alignment yet but I don't think it would be that far off.

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I actually used two on each side and seemed to do the trick. What size tires and offset?

Worked on the fuel lines again this weekend. I finally locked down hangers for the fuel lines. I had previously used the insulated hangers and they seemed to do ok, but I am using the flexible fuel lines and so I was a little concerned with them closing down and crushing or kinking the lines, so I opted for some rigid duplex hangers that took care of the return and the feed line ( I will post pics later today).

MBB Larry came over to the shop this weekend and helped me attempt to track down the fuel pump issue I was having. My fuel pump had quit running after only 20 minutes of run time, so I have since replaced it (but not re-installed it). It ran perfectly...until it didn't. I pulled it off, the pump was dead as I confirmed by putting power directly to it. I also was not getting power to the fuel pump. So yesterday Larry and I tested for power, ground, checked the relay, replaced the relay thinking that was the issue but after not making any headway we called it a day. Later on in the day, I decided to just start from the beginning as I thought I had checked everything up to this point. So I started as basic as it gets, I checked the fuse, which I promise ya'll I had previously checked as the first thing and what do you know...the fuse is blown! I can only chock this one up to me being an idiot and a cheap fuse! The fuse that was used is extremely opaque in the middle and I only visually check the fuse initially. This time I actually put a multimeter to and checked continuity and sure enough...blown! So I then replaced the fuse and confirmed voltage at the fuel pump leads and it was good to go. Now in the back of my head I am now trying to figure out what caused the fuse to blow and at the same time I am starting to re-install the same, identical fuel pump back on my fuel rail. I notice as I am doing this that this fuel pump has plastic isolators installed under the locknuts on the + and - post of the fuel pump...these were not on the original fuel pump:confused:. My original fuel pump came in a box from Engine Factory (they installed the Sniper System on the Engine), but I installed the fuel pump and there was absolutely NO isolators on it. And I must have gotten caught up in just the process of attaching the wires to the terminals and didn't even think about the technical side of if the terminals twist they will essentially short (blow fuse) and probably kill the fuel pump! Needless to say, isolators are on new pump and are being used. I am almost certain this was the issue with this. Again, I will try to post some pics this evening, but wanted to get this down before I forgot.

Here are some of the pics from the previous post...

The pesky fuse...
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Fuel Pump Rail and close-up of plastic isolation block...
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Billet Battery Tray...
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Re-Routing of Electrical to Battery...
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Re-Location of Inertia Switch...
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Clamps for Fuel Line Feed and Return...
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I am now working on re-routing the e-brake cable as it still seems to be in bit of a bind. I am hopefully to have that completed sometime this weekend.

Worked this weekend re-routing the E-Brake Lines. There really just seemed to be one true area of concern and that was as the cables came from the welded bracket area forward of the driveshaft. I changed that (you can see the old screw holes below) and then adjusted a few other curves. Checked the routings and engagement, both at full droop and on the ground and all seems to be working much better now without any sticking (thanks Larry)...

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Would like to get some input from other builders on a couple of things...below are pics of my inertia switch and my fuel lines as they run across the top of the tank...

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My questions are 1) is my inertia switch protruding to high above the rail (should I lower it)? I am not sure how close the body will actually sit and with the gauges temporarily installed I can't actually put the body on at this point to check (this will be an easy fix either way, but trying to get it solved up front). Next question is what, if anything gets installed or lays across the large brackets that are welded to the Upper Trunk Tube (lies right above the fuel tank). You can see in the picture I have clamps screwed into those brackets to hold my fuel lines in place...if something (body, etc) mounts flush to these, they will also need to be moved.

I have also gathered up the remaining parts (I think I have them all) that I need to have powder coated, I will be taking those to work to have those done later this week...

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In addition, while I was cleaning up my storage area in the shop and tossing a few more boxes (I am down to about 5), I also went through and marked the small aluminum pieces that I had lying around. I know a couple of builders had mentioned some difficulty in knowing what each piece is. I have labeled and put the part number on them so maybe this will help someone. I was going to also put where they could be found in the manual, however there are several that I have yet to come across in the manual :confused:...

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I don't have my body on yet however I do beleive the sheet metal you have your inertia switch mounted to will be touching the body so the switch will need to be lowered.

Not sure about the fuel lines strapped to the seat belt brackets. If none of the hardware rubs on the fuel lines you could be OK.

JOP,


He is a photo of that area you are talking about. It does appear that the body hits where you have your inertia switch.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-con...7_183428-1.jpg

Thanks guys...this is just the feedback I was needing!

Worked a little bit this week on some small stuff. I drew up a larger template for the auxiliary fuse block that I had installed in the passenger side floorboard. I wanted to go a little larger to try and cover the entire area to the trans tunnel. I also want to put a slight kickout on the bottom to transition to the floor a little better. I have a few other random parts to design and draw up so I wait a bit to fab but at least I have the template now...

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As much as I have tried to be cautious about holes I have to drill, it just seemed with the routing of the e-brake cables I jumped the gun a bit, so I did have some mounting holes that changed leavings some other holes...well, holes. I thought about just running stainless screws in them but then I came across these plugs on McMaster Carr and they actually worked pretty well and you can get them in different colors and sizes. You do have to be a little compromising I guess when it comes to color, but I thought I'd pass the info along...

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I have also started working on some interior (dash) layout ideas as well. These are what I have come up with so far, the silver will be paint and the blue would be covered vinyl...

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Well, I am headed over to MBB Larry's today as he has requested some assistance in dropping his engine in his 33'. I don't know how much help I can offer as it will be only the second engine I have helped install, but a great guy and awesome build, so it will be a good day! My intentions are to have my 33' up and running again this weekend, so hopefully more updates to come.

And have a Merry Christmas y'all!

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Originally Posted by JOP33

I actually used two on each side and seemed to do the trick. What size tires and offset?

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I have 255/35 R19 with 5.5 backspace. I was going to get 18s but they were back ordered forever.

The problem I'm having is the passenger side. I bought the same part number as you but my spacers disappear under the lip of the rack and keep going no matter how many I add. Are they supposed to hit the lip in the photo I show below? If yours do, I'm puzzled in regards to why mine are different? See picture below... factory five said I should just make some spacers out of PVC but I don't want to do that as I've read elsewhere that's not ideal because the PVC becomes brittle.... Really appreciate your input to help me figure out what may be different with mine!

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Originally Posted by fostia

I have 255/35 R19 with 5.5 backspace. I was going to get 18s but they were back ordered forever.

The problem I'm having is the passenger side. I bought the same part number as you but my spacers disappear under the lip of the rack and keep going no matter how many I add. Are they supposed to hit the lip in the photo I show below? If yours do, I'm puzzled in regards to why mine are different? See picture below... factory five said I should just make some spacers out of PVC but I don't want to do that as I've read elsewhere that's not ideal because the PVC becomes brittle.... Really appreciate your input to help me figure out what may be different with mine!

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I will try to get you some pics over to you. I will need to pull the boots off, so it may be later this week or early next week.

I spent some time out in the shop the last few days just cleaning up some smaller things...brackets, re-routing some lines, hanging some lines, etc, nothing too mind-blowing but here are some pics...

Lower Radiator Hose Bracket...
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Transmission Line Brackets...
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Radiator Reservoir Lines...
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Also my Passenger Side E-Brake cable was hanging just a little closer than I would like to the inside of the rear rim, so I actually got this idea from MBB Larry on his build. I purchased a spring and attached it to the bottom of the chassis and then connected the other end to the brake cable... it puts just enough tension on the cable to pull it up and away from the rim...

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and of course it's never too early to add a little bling...
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and of course it's never too early to add a little bling...
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The bling is a great touch :)

I was able to to mount the Battery Plate and after some good feedback from a few builders, I lowered my inertia switch a bit so as not to be hit with the deck lid...

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I had to be a little cautious about the placement of the battery as well, since there is a taper to the lid, I didn't want the top of the battery to interfere with the deck lid. Hopefully I moved it in just enough.

Got the rest of my parts back from work today, they have really done a great job and saved me quite a bit of money!

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By the way, I was just catching up on some of the other Builder's Threads, I can't tell you how amazed I continue to be by some of the craftsmanship, blacksmithing, fabbing, etc. that continues to show up on this forum. You all have great talents and creativity that shows day after day in your builds. It is this kind of inspiration that not only inspired me to build my kit but fuels the future builders.

Thank you all for your continued inspiration!

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

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Originally Posted by fostia

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

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No worries...I should be out in the shop most of the day today. I’ll try to get pics.

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Originally Posted by fostia

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

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Hope this helps you out...

Passenger side turning full right...
Attachment 99949

Without Boot...
Attachment 99950

Attachment 99951

Attachment 99952

Driver side turning full left...
Attachment 99953

Without Boot...
Attachment 99954