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From what I have been reading- Both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boog
We all know the 818R will be much more performance elevated than guys with WRX's- We have bigger, sticker tires, aerodynamics etc- How many 818's have been on the track? How many of those had some type of problem? Alot of unknowns. I wonder if the FFR Blue R had any issues, and what they have on it?
Technically, no. You do have to vent the sump. Some make that vent a separator which vents and drains back to the sump. Chris, of KillerB says you should have four scavenging pumps: two for the pan and one for each head.Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
KillerB is now offering a set of valves to stop surge out of the heads. This would be a sensible alternative to dry sump for the racer on a budget... I think these new valves and a Accusump should be all you need.
Dry sump is still the ultimate for reducing parasitic losses and can help improve power if enough vacuum is used.
I know about his valves, but I have asked a few times on different threads about a release date with no answer. Which I find really funny because he like to chime in on anything....Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargo
http://www.drysump.com/Subaru.htm
not cheap, but most of the hard work is done... pretty much just a bolt on.
The cosworth kit is nice, but ...
Required to complete the installation:
-Oil Tank
-Hoses/Hose Ends
-2004-2007 Subaru STI Alternator bracket
-Cosworth High Volume/Pressure Oil Pump 20001185
I finished the "Pushed Back" complete firewall today. I have plenty of room for the seat now.
http://i.imgur.com/4Qp9Jlkl.jpg
I also did some final touch ups to the UCA's trimming. For future reference cut ~1/4" off of each of the rear studs, and ~1/2" off the front welded stub only. Like Brandon, you will lose one of the locking nuts on the rear portion to get the correct camber. (Note: picture is at "full" adjustment- This is not how I will run it. I will do a complete alignment later.)
http://i.imgur.com/9Uyb0nhl.jpg
I also removed the steering column- Hammered down the end to shorten the length (super easy). Then reinstalled it with my 3D printed steering spacer. I fits perfect. Now the steering wheel will feel good (It was a little close for my taste). It basically nullifies the quick release hub length and lowers the column. If I want the steering wheel to be even lower, I can just print up a thicker steering spacer.
http://i.imgur.com/SajOUYfl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lkZGkz5l.jpg
I hope to finish mounting the fuel cell later today or tomorrow. I only have to make a few cuts on the hold down bracket, paint, then install it. At some point later, I will have to box the fuel cell up (firewall it) to meet racing rules.
I finished mounting the Fuel Cell today. Next is my awesome IWire harness!
http://i.imgur.com/Z5WJTNCl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RJBhn7Tl.jpg
Beautiful installation.
You are certainly going to be working on your tan in there.
That is what the fire suit is for. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Gulp....- Just ordered the Element Tuning Dry Sump kit...... They use it on their race car and other builds- No issues. They actually piece it together with some ARE components.
I will have a complete Killer B setup for sale soon. (Tank, windage tray & pickup). I need to figure out a price.
Very nice choice on the dry sump... even if your wallet doesn't think so. Looking forward to seeing your install of that kit.
For NASA&SCCA won't you be required to build a fire wall between you and the cell? I haven't looked at the rule books in a while but a firewall has been required for as long as I can remember. I am planning on using the same cell, it looks like a fire wall will be easy to fabricate.
Your car is looking great.
Yes I will. A few posts above the picture I said I would need to. It's should be fairly easy. One of my racing buddies is going to help. That will be one of the last things I do. I need to see where I can fit the dry sump oil tank and -12 lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitch Wright
Look forward to seeing the finished product.
The first step before installing the IWire harness.....Odyssey PC680 battery mounted. Stay tuned.
http://i.imgur.com/JYeaNCVl.png
I received some more cool toys. I have also been messing with this digital display (8" Andriod Tablet)- The signals are sent wireless (bluetooth) from my data logger (Race Capture Pro). It will fit perfectly in the dashboard area. I'm going analog (VDO gauges) first, then will incorporate this display once I get things dialed in. I hope it works as good as it looks.
http://i.imgur.com/5S70ECBl.png
Slick. That looks pretty cool.
How fast is the update frequency and how's the lag vs what's happening for real?
The only reason so far I don't plan on going for such thing is the lag. The info displayed on screen is not real-time.
This is part of a Data logger. This just not some cheap slow app you buy. Do a search on Race capture Pro. It is real time. You can even get real time from the car to anyone with a computer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
thanks
I read about it on Race Capture's site (simple but not enough info for me), but couldn't find examples of how you can customize the dash. It seems to support 8 analogue inputs and even 3 outputs, this is interesting as I need 2-3 outputs and was planning on buying controllers. Your Race Capture kit does it and all the stuff + 3 outputs for only $450!
But do you know a site or video that explains what can be customized for the dash? Like if you can locate your inputs anywhere on the dash, use any font, color, diagram, gauge style, dimension, etc. That's what I'm looking for. It looks like a very interesting option instead of using my VW cluster.
supports a transponder?
It has GPS in it with the track start/finish Long/Lat. If it is like my Traqmate on my other car- It is very accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by longislandwrx
Interested to see how the tablet looks in the dash. Are you planning to replace the analog gauges with it eventually, or just temp-install the tablet for race days?
If it works well, I will just use the tablet. I'm going to have the Data logger running all the time anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zach34
I never knew wiring could be so much fun!!! (especially when you dont have to do the dieting!). Just route, clamp, plug in.
http://i.imgur.com/G9onqs7l.png
I found a nice little spot behind the dash to mount the key/column/immobilizer. I'm going to ziptie the key in just in case. I will never need to see it, or turn it to start- I'll just use the start button.
http://i.imgur.com/orWAAfbl.jpg
Front is all wired up, Now onto the back- I just need to pop off the center console and route the wires.
http://i.imgur.com/ntQtqWXl.jpg
I think it took me 30min to finish the front......that included drilling. Granted, the headlights are not mounted yet, but the wires are there. I plugged in the radiator fans, dash, throttle, brake etc)
Well I checked around and the Race Capture Mobile app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ecapture&hl=fr) doesn't say much as to what can be customized on the dashboard. Autosports Lab isn't much verbose either (https://www.autosportlabs.com/raceca...-beta-release/).Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
So when you get down the customization (I assume at some point people get there in order to have they want on screen), could you let us know what you are able to customize?
Layout will be the same, but they have a ton of preset gauges you can select from. Everything I would ever need. In the picture, I selected those gauge types. There are probably 10 or so total to choose from.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank818
I am going to take the same plunge. Trying to figure out mounting location. Are you installing in engine bay behind driver?Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Good to hear from you Brandon- I'll know more once it shows up. It just depends on where the tank will fit. I think its around 22" and 6" diameter (around 7+ with mounting brackets) I'm going to try to put the tank in the engine area to limit the lengths of lines, if that does not work- up front. Up front will have a longer line run, but should help the balance also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brando
Ohhhhh- lookie here......
http://i.imgur.com/mSUAepEl.png
http://i.imgur.com/1CrkztSl.png
I need to run fuel lines, add oil, install IC then break her in at 2000RPM for a bit.
You forgot the dash !Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Autosport Labs is a local company here in Seattle so we have been doing lots of testing with them here at the local tracks for about 3 years now. The data logger is great, they keep adding new features and well worth the $$$Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Chad, tnx for the details. I installed the app on my phone, unfortunately the settings button doesn't work, probably cuz it's not a tablet.
Not sure one can remove the lap times, split, delta and lap number from the app, as it's race oriented.
And I found out there is no odometer, none is shown on the app's panels. :( I'll stick with my VW dash for now, then.
But for race, I'd go with that hands down!
Looking really good bro. I envy your attention to detail.
If we are doing a dry sump wouldn't this be an ideal opportunity to drop the motor a few inches?
I don't have my car here and I can't recall if the exhaust manifold was already to low to bring it down any.
Brando, I doubt that you can find a header that will let you drop the motor much though a custom one might be possible to do so
I agree- The "Highest" header I have seen is still a 1/4" or 1/2" below the rail.
At the level you are racing, are they requiring steel braided lines for your drysump oil lines.
Does keeping all the lines strictly in the engine bay have any bearing on that requirement?
I have the braided lines in the Porsche (Fuel, oil). I will be putting them in the 818R also. I think the rules state anything running in the cabin have to be braided. I just use braided lines everywhere. I already have the -8 AN fuel lines. I just need to make them. The dry sump will have -12 lines.
PS-DO NOT buy "slip on or press on" AN fittings- Those are not legal.
Tip- Buy the Koul Tools AN line tool. Helps a ton when building lines. You can buy singles, or mutli packs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kts-1016
Hey Chad,Quote:
Originally Posted by C.Plavan
Nice display. I'm curious if you would have any comments about my gauge plans: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d=1#post161599
I like the RaceCapture device and got one to test out. I'm thinking of build a way to drive other display types from the RaceCapture.
Cheers,
Jeff
I just got my stock headers with Invidia up pipe back. I had them Ceramic Coated. I decided to just stay with the stock headers for the time being. I might have some time to install them tomorrow. They look great!
http://i.imgur.com/CbGrGZjl.png
Since I'm running a Legacy GT 5 speed trans, it does not have the speedo gear in the transmission for the VSS sensor. I do not want to open the trans back up and install the speedo gear and sensor (I should of done it when I installed the Modena TBD- But I didn't know) , so I found a place that makes a VSS simulator that you plug into the VSS harness plug. If you try to run without the VSS, you will be thrown into Limp Mode...booooo. They use these VSS simulators on VW Vanagon/subi conversions. I hope the ECU does not learn that it is getting fooled by a constant "speed signal". If for some reason that fails, I was planning on using a Hall Effect sensor with magnets JB welded to the inner CV. Then mount the sensor to the transmission with some type of support.
I'm just waiting for a stock Boost Control solenoid to show up, then I pretty much can start it up. :)