More Body Work Questions

Hey, guys,

I finally got the body on the car again for the first time. Way tighter fit than I remember from the build school and lots of new learnings for when I need to do final install after paint (eg need access under the trunk floor for quick jack tightening so need carpet easily lifted and trunk floor cover plates go on last!). Had to do a lot of muscling and shifting but everything looks good and I think an overall good fit. However, I do have a few other questions, some just to build on others I have already asked. Thanks for the help.

1. I have learned that only the hood needs insulation or rubber spacers while fitting up, but I think the door, trunk lid and hood panels all need to be mounted to the chassis to make sure the opening gaps and fit relative to the body all match up. Is that true? For the hood, would that include the closing handles?

2. Does the hood opening need to be fastened into the 3/4" frame along the sides? I have seen some posts saying yes, but also seen photos where clearly there was a small gap. I can press the hood opening down about 1/8" on one side (in the middle of the opening and less as I move to the front and back of the opening) and a bit more on the other side (which includes compressing the weatherstripping). The hood is not "gapped" yet but actually fits up pretty well with the side openings as it is now - this will likely change some when the gap is made larger. But, I am a bit concerned about tightening the opening down and having the hood sit above the body then having to do lots of work with filler to get them aligned later.

3. On the driver side of the hood opening, the body actually is in contact with the top panel of the footbox where it is attached to the 3/4" frame. Not sure if I should plan to sand or cut the bottom of the hood opening down at that point to create a gap. If so, I probably need to do that prior to any hood fitting. Note - that side of the hood opening is actually the one that is tightest on the support frame along the hood opening.

4. At the rear of the cockpit, I have a very tight fit - barely can force the insulation between the wall and body lip. As it is I will have to remove the top inch or so of insulation so that when I put the carpet in it will fit under. Once painted, it will limit this fit even more. Should I grind the inside of the lip when I take the body off the next time to open that up a bit? Is there a minimum gap I should target if I do this? Ultimately I want it tight, but don't want to have to "force fit" more than reasonable.

I am sure more questions will come as I get more into it (never done body work before) but this will keep me going for a while. Thanks again - you have been great with the help.

All sounds about right. I would fastening everything in place as much as possible, as you expect to be in its completed mode, before doing any body work. The hood opening/interface with the body, I do not attach to the steel frame until final body fitament. This allows you to make minor adjustments up or down as needed. I had to (current Mark IV) cut away some of the body lip to prevent the body from interfering with the footbox top.
The rear wall is really tight against the body lip. I would suggst cutting away a small amount of the insulation and let the lip seal tight against the carpet. Finally, I install the bolts from the quick jacks loose before the body goes on, then you reach in with a wrench (and a copious amount of twisting) you can tighten everything up. No need for any access panels or dropping of the gas tank. Some people just put the bolts through from the outside in. Hope this helps.

Some responses based on my experience. For both my Mk3 and Mk4 builds, used threaded couplers on the rear quick jack mounts. Lots of threads on this subject if you search. This eliminates having to reach the nuts, trying to get a wrench on them, drop the tank, etc. The Mk3 is tight. The Mk4 is impossible. Regarding your other questions:

1. Yes, you need to mount everything before paint. Doors, hood, trunk, windshield, roll bar, quick jacks, side pipes, etc. etc. My rule -- nothing will touch my painted body that wasn't mocked up and fit during body work. That means everything. Every light, mirror, hinge, etc. You don't want any surprises after paint, plus you don't want to be drilling a freshly painted body. I can't tell you how many times people have come on this forum and the other one to talk about surprises after paint that didn't have an easy (or non-stressful) fix.

2. Lots of debate about fastening the hood opening sides. I didn't on my Mk3. 2000 miles and it's rock solid. No rattle no shake. Not that far on my Mk4. Having said that, yes most likely you need to trim the lip on the body. Like most of the trimming from FFR, it's "close" but should be cleaned up tweaked, etc. based on your build. You should have a layer of weatherstrip on the 3/4 tubes, and the body should sit down in it. If not, I would take a look at your front quick jack mounts. Maybe a little high. Another alternative would be to put down another layer of weatherstrip. Don't leave the body hanging or a gap.

3. Same as point #2. You may need to trim the body a little. Typically the weatherstrip from around the hood extends back into that area.

4. Don't have experience with this one yet on my Mk4. That area wasn't a problem on my Mk3.

HTH

Hi Dan,

I had a strange feeling while reading your description of fitting the body on your project. I could have cut and pasted your post and added my name and it would have been "exactly the same" as my exerience. I really wasn't expecting that since mine is a MKIII but they must be a lot alike still (MKIII and MKIV). I added two extra layers of insulation on my cockpit besides the "Dynamat" like rubber product. For that cockpit fitment, I did have to competely cut down the insulation (it wasn't even close). So the only thing fitting under the rear body edge is the rubber insulation and the FFR carpet which is a really tight fit. That's the way it's supposed to be from all the threads I've read. BTW, I put the bulb seal on my top edge alum just to try it. I knew I could make it fit. Wrong! It's so stiff and tight in that part of the body, you can't persuade it like in some of the other areas.

I'm working on my hood fitment now. I am taking a very small edge off the rear edge of the hood for starters. At that point it will begin to sink into the tub opening in the body. It already does it on the sides when you press down. I will have to adjust the hinges down a little more to make the front edge do that also. When that is finished, I should have a hood that is slightly lower in the normal position so that the seal will raise it to the right height. That's my plan. I would have to give FFR good marks on how they did the hood on the MKIII. The hinges are great and the hood is well constructed as well as fitting the hole.

I'm putting the weather strip on the 3/4 rails along the side. If I were you I would not fasten them. Why take a chance of deforming the opening? According to FFR, the body is only a skin so it has all the chassis attachments it needs. The insulation will keep the fiberglass from hitting directly on the steel 3/4 rail if a big butt happens to hop up there with some force behind it.

I understand there is a lot more "meat" on the edges of the MKIV like around the wheel wells and cockpit edges. I rounded the edges of the cockpit but was careful not to over do it. You probably have a lot more fiberglass to work with to get that rounded effect on the front and rear edges of the cockpit. I don't know how you feel about it but when I hear that my project is going along pretty much as expected, I'm happy. Good luck. WEK.