wheel opening clearance and transmission swap

I mounted the body for the first time on my MKIV kit and the wheel opening clearance for the front tires is way off. It seems like the body is too far back or the tires too far forward. I am using the recommended 245/45/17 tires, i could swap to something shorter but I dont wanna but another set of tires if i dont have to. Any suggestions on what could be causing this?

I was also wondering if its possible to swap out the transmission without having to remove the engine or at least unbolt it and move it forward?

Thanks
EdAttachment 8507

Can you post a pic of the front suspension? It might not be the body location...

As for the trans, what engine/tranny combo do you have?

Attachment 8508

Heres a pic of the front suspension, not sure if its the angle you wanna see. Im running the tubular FF set up with koni coil overs.

Im running a Ford Racing 475hp 392 Crate engine and a 5 speed. Put a T5 just to get moving but i know it wont last long so i want to upgrad to a TKO 600.

Thanks

My guess is your caster is way off. Basically move the upper ball joint rearward by lengthening the forward upper control arm link and shrinking the rearward upper control arm link.

Transmission swap depends on what bellhousing you have. Quicktime and stock bellhousings have a steep slope on the bottom back of the bell and will allow you to wiggle the transmission out. Lakewood is pretty flat on the back/bottom which makes it VERY hard. On the first two you can disconnect the tranny, turn it sideways and pull it back far enough to get the input shaft to clear so that it drops out the bottom. Lakewood will allow the shaft to clear but the flat back makes it impossible to get the input shaft low enough to drop out so you have to pull it back, remove the bellhousing and then drop the tranny. Major PITA!

HTH
Todd

I will try adjusting my caster and see if i can get the front tires back far enough to be centered in the wheel opening.

I have a stock T5 in the car now but I have a Tremec TKO 600 set up arrivng early next week. I havent installed the radiator and cooling system yet so it may just be easier at this point to take the motor loose and lift it up and forward to swap the tranny.

Thanks for the input guys.

Be careful adjusting caster too much. It looks like you have manual steering which I believe calls for 3 degrees while power steering is 6 - 8 degrees. Lengthening the front UCA arm will not leave enough thread in the connecting arm potentially causing suspension failure. Here are some photos I found that shows the problem. I am going with power steering so I ordered longer from arms form Speedway Motors. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumin...Inch,2087.html

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Good input from the other guys, but just to be very simple and direct -- adjust the castor (also camber and toe-in) to specification, not to the wheel well opening. Probably when the front end alignment is right you will center into the wheel well openings. If not, then body needs to be adjusted, not the front end specs.

Personally, I would remove the engine to put the new transmission in. Especially since you're changing to a different one. Too many variables not to, and the engine only takes an hour or two to remove. Had my engine/trans in/out three times during my build. Got pretty good at it...

Might also be toed in more than normal. As you steer the wheels they definately move for and aft. As a quick check sight along the outside of the front tire toward the rear tire. They should line up w/in maybe 1/2 inch.