Printable View
I currently have Quick Jacks installed with the ********** grommets and bolts. These were installed by my painter (Ken Pike) so I don't have any experience with bumper install.
I recently received my bumpers from FFR and would like to install them. I'll be using all-thread to do this. My only question is, will my body shift once I remove the current bolts holding the quick jacks? Right now, everything lines up perfectly and I don't want to screw that up. Thanks for any help.
Wiz,
Not all applications are identical, you might ask Ken that question. If the Quick Jacks have been in place for some months, any body preload has reduced.
I recently installed update bumpers. Respecting the SAE I never use less than grade five hardware. All-thread is grade 2.
I welded flange nuts inside the over riders and ran grade 10.9 hex head bolts from inside the body.
Obviously these bumpers and fiberglass will not withstand a crash, but two nuts are twice as likely to loosen as one nut.
jim
Wiz,
For the front, if you doing the single overrider bumpers and not the full hoop just do one side at a time. If you're using the full hoop you can't do that and have to remove all 4 bolts and reinstall but when you pull them back up tight the combination of tubes and grommets will put the body pretty much back to where it was. In the back the existing all thread will remain in place and between those and the roll bar(s) they will also prevent the body from moving much. At worst you may need to make minor adjustments to the hood and trunk hinges.
I don't know what your plan is for the rear but here is a writeup I did years ago about how I go about doing the full width bumper and overriders when using my coupler/all thread mod.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...hlight=coupler
Jeff
Thanks JR and Jeff.
JR, I did send Ken an email, but haven't heard back from him. I'm sure he's busy and will get back to me when he gets a chance. BTW, how did you get bolts in from the backside? I see no room to get them in from the back without removing a lot of stuff. Is all all-thread grade 2? That seems crazy that it would be that low, considering what it has been used for by so many people.
Jeff, I saw that write-up and that is what I was basing my install on. As for the front, yes, I'm doing the full hoop. Instructions from FFR have you install the overriders and then clamp the hoop in position and drill for hardware. If this is the case, I could do 1 at a time, correct? And then bolt the hoop on after overriders are installed?
Wiz,Quote:
Originally Posted by Wizbangdoodle
JR's car isn't a FFR so apples and oranges. Grade 2 all thread is fine for this use---the bumpers and overriders are not structural, only decorative. As for the front...apparently you have the old 3 piece front setup rather than the one piece fully welded Mk4 version. The 3 piece set usually doesn't fit the Mk4 very well...often the best way to make it work is redrill the overrider holes so that they set out wider allowing the hoop to fit in between them.
Jeff
I was in process of doing just that Jeff. Put the template on the backside bracket and drilled a 1/8" hole as instructed. Opened that up to 23/64 as mentioned in the instructions. Used the tap supplied with the kit to tap the holes. First hole is tapped, but it was very difficult to do. Went to do the 2nd hole and broke that tap. Fortunately it just chipped off the side of the tap. I then used my own tap. I now have the tap stuck in the hole. Can't go forward, can't back it out. I've even put vise grips on it and it will not budge. This is even after using proper tapping technique, turn in to cut and rotate back to break the burr off. For some reason, this backing plate is like some kind of hardened steel or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I guess I'm just *****ing about this now, but I'm not sure how I'm going to get this tap out without breaking it.
Wiz,
You may require an oxy-acetylene torch to heat and expand the material around the tap. The hole grows and the tap may turn out.
I hope that you can remove the part for that proceedure.
Failing that, a machine job shop wire EDM can burn out the tap. $$$
jim
Good news, I have all the bumpers on. Well,, not everything. I got the front overriders on and stepped back to look at it and I kinda liked it without the hoop. The wife is not in agreement and says it doesn't look finished. We'll see what the future holds. Rear bumper is on and the rest of the car is pretty sorted out. Now I just need to drive it a bit and see what shakes loose.
Congratulations on getting them installed.
I installed my rear bumper today, but I followed FFR's method. Meaning that I had to drop the fuel tank to install the 8" bolts. Kind of a pain, but it's all back together now.