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Don's Mk 4 Build Continuation
Hey there. Back in Spring 2024 I became the new owner of a Mk 4 Roadster that I bought from the original buyer/builder> He had driven the car for almost 2,000 miles before he decided to sell. I bought the car on 04/16/24 and it was finally titled, registered, and plated in PA on 06/18/2024 – just in time for me to drive it out and back to the London Cobra Show that year. If you want to know about my experience with the whole PA title and registration process, let me know and I may create a new thread for that.
When I took delivery of the car, the builder had started some body work but never finished. This was OK with me, as I plan to do the body work and paint myself. I have done smaller patch repair jobs on metal, but never a full car. I’m looking forward to learning some new skills.
I have driven the car for the past two summers, and am ready to tackle some body and paint work.
Aside from the body work/paint, there are a bunch of other things I wanted to do to the car. This thread will document those additions and changes from the current build. I am in no way knocking the builder, I am sure the decisions he made were made for the good reasons at that time, there are just some things I want to add or change. Here is a short list of what I have planned. These are in a somewhat order of preference. Some are already done, others temp parts installed or on-hand, others not started yet.
• [COMPLETE] Replace the FFR headlights and front running lights with the Breeze upgrade PN 70805
• [COMPLETE] Fix the angle of the windshield. The assembly manual states 27” from the top screw back to the body. The DS is only 25”, PS is 26.5”. Only 1 bolt is installed in the DS bracket, so I have room to adjust.
○ I added the second bolt to DS. DS now 27 1/8”, PS now 27 1/4", room to adjust as needed.
• [COMPLETE] Shorten the power steering supply and return lines
○ Breeze: 4.5’ braided line PN 21102; Fittings 21630 (x2), 21550 (x1), 21629 (x1)
• [COMPLETE] Add a passenger roll bar. I was able to find a roll bar second hand, and a buddy building his car made me a paper tracing of his PS rollbar hole locations. It was a huge help in getting the holes located, since the original marks were no longer on the body. It still needs some minor adjustments, so the bar isn’t contacting the body.
• Move the brake and clutch reservoirs from the firewall to the DS engine bay. Currently you cannot easily check or fill fluids when the body is on.
• Replace the e-brake with an electronic parking brake system
• Front suspension adjustment. I have a little bit of bump steer, not severe in any way but noticeable. I think the angle of the steering linkage needs adjusted, if I swap the DS & PS brackets that will lower the angle and match the upper and lower control arms better. Still need more research on this topic before I change anything.
• Adjust the ride height. I made some adjustments last year and then had the wheels aligned. But it still seems off, looking at the stance front to back. I’ll do a bit more research before I tackle it again.
• Add cup holders to the cockpit.
○ [PARTS ON-HAND] I have these for now - https://a.co/d/9tsqPnO
• Add a radiator fan shroud & cowl cover
○ [PARTS ON-HAND] Breeze: PN 70809 & PN 70031
• Finish the installation of some aluminum panels that were left off
• Add some sort of heat barrier to the engine bay foot boxes. Something like this - https://a.co/d/07JCo4JR
• Make & install door cards
BODY OFF (need better access to areas)
• [COMPLETE] Adjust the throttle mechanical linkage. Right now, it’s at an angle due to the reservoirs being in the way, and this causes the firewall to flex when the throttle is pressed. I found a mod to the Sniper throttle connection, that moved the pivot point up a fraction of an inch but made a world of difference in pedal/throttle effort and response. In my opinion this should come standard with every Sniper, whether you end up needing it or not. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ts/parts/20-16
• Replace the turn signals with a Signal Dynamics self-cancelling module & momentary switch(es)
• Add charging ports to the cockpit
• Gas struts for the trunk deck
○ [PARTS ON-HAND] 20 inch gas struts - https://a.co/d/0ffFaZif
○ [PARTS ON-HAND] 10mm ball stud brackets - https://a.co/d/0bsGIZwt
• Add a dropped trunk mod
• Either relocate the battery to the engine bay, or drop it into its own box below the trunk
• Reroute portions of the brake lines and add brake line protector (not happy where portions are routed)
• Reroute some wiring (not happy where portions are routed)
• Replace nylon fuel lines and Dorman quick connect fitting with PTFE fuel line and -6 AN fittings (already had 1 leak with the Dorman quick connect fittings)
MINOR REPAIRS
• Small leak at the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. It looks like the angle of attack from the bracket to the clutch plate lever is too steep, and the rubber gasket is torn. Have a small leak in the area. I have the Forte External Hydraulic Clutch Kit so not sure why the angle is off so much.
• DS rear brake caliper has a small leak, looks like the copper crush washer needs replaced and reseated
• Small oil leak, need to locate and repair.
BODYWORK
When I got the car there was quite a bit of body filler covering the seams. The car was also driven many miles with that filler exposed. Not sure what contaminants would be buried in there I decided to sand as much of it off as I could and I will start fresh.
There are multiple issues I need to correct on the body, and this is what I will be tackling next. There are some great body work threads out there, but this is the one I will be referencing the most. It does a great job of showing the entire process, and has some great input from Jeff Kleiner and others.
Carl's and Phil's Mk4 Body Work and Paint - https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Work-and-Paint
What are the issues I have that need addressed, above and beyond “normal” bodywork and prep?
• In several places cuts were made beyond where needed, and those need to be filled back in. These are mainly areas that should be more circular cuts, not sure if the original builder had the right tools to make those cuts. Looks like a bunch of straight cuts to try and make a circle
• The cut-out for the hood scoop needs major repair, edge built back up, cleaned up and centered better
• The hood scoop has a small area that was sanded through so I need to patch it
• The seams on the body look like they were sanded down too far, all the way through the gel coat. Not sure if I need to strengthen those seams with fiberglass (either mat or the 3M HSRF)
• Several areas in the wheels well edges that need the edge repaired and built back up a bit
• The DS opening for the windshield arm needs repaired, it’s too large on the outside edge and the rounded ends need rounded off.
• A few holes here and there that need patched
For now I have adjusted the doors to what I feel is the closest I can get to aligned. It took many small tweaks and taps with a rubber mallet to get it there. I removed the door latches so I could have a fresh start on alignment and not be hampered by where the latches were currently located. This helped a lot, and now they open and close better. I still need to work on the gaps. DS needs widened a bit, while the PS door has gaps that need closed. I think the builder maybe sanded the PS door edges too much, but it could just be how they are.
I also adjusted the hood to where I think the final position is. Still need a bit more adjustment on the trunk, mostly left to right.
So my first question is what is the best way to repair/rebuild these edges and extra cuts? I have a quart of the 3M High Strength Repair Filler. My thought is to approach this from both sides. First tape off the back side to give the filler something to support it. Sand back a couple inches from the edge and apply the 3M HSRF to build up the edges or fill in the cuts. After it cures do the same but from the opposite side. That should give me a strong, cleaner edge that I can sand back as needed. Also, I have access to a large scale 3D printer and have already designed and printed some forms I could use as backing. For example, I have a large form printed that recreates the correct cutout for the hood scoop. I can stick that to the underside of the hood while I fill in from the top side. I should give me a good edge to recreate up to.
Here are some pictures of the areas that need repaired, as well as a few of the DS and PS door alignments.
