Mk5 dashboard fitment

I started working on my dash, and decided to mount it using hook and loop. I fastened three angle brackets to the hoop (left center right) with larger squares of hook and loop, then two smaller patches of it evenly spaced between the brackets. Also used to two dash supports.

I've only cut one hole so far, for the steering shaft, using the template provided. With the center of the dash even with the hoop at center, the outboard edges of it are above, as seen in the pictures. Now I understand, I really need to put the body on to really figure this out, but until then, am just curious if this is normal or not. I can't see moving the dash lower, without having to elongate the steering shaft hole to the point where the turn signal assembly won't cover the bottom of the hole. At that point I guess I'll have to just start shaving the high points, if needed.

I'm probably just overthinking this, as usual. Also, has anyone had success with hook and loop ? I didn't want any exposed fasteners. I know I could have epoxied some tabs on the back for fasteners but figured I'd try this.

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Originally Posted by CW_MI

I started working on my dash, and decided to mount it using hook and loop. I fastened three angle brackets to the hoop (left center right) with larger squares of hook and loop, then two smaller patches of it evenly spaced between the brackets. Also used to two dash supports.

I've only cut one hole so far, for the steering shaft, using the template provided. With the center of the dash even with the hoop at center, the outboard edges of it are above, as seen in the pictures. Now I understand, I really need to put the body on to really figure this out, but until then, am just curious if this is normal or not. I can't see moving the dash lower, without having to elongate the steering shaft hole to the point where the turn signal assembly won't cover the bottom of the hole. At that point I guess I'll have to just start shaving the high points, if needed.

I'm probably just overthinking this, as usual. Also, has anyone had success with hook and loop ? I didn't want any exposed fasteners. I know I could have epoxied some tabs on the back for fasteners but figured I'd try this.

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Almost for sure that's too high. It doesn't need to be that high but more importantly the "wings" out on the end will almost for sure interfere with the underside of the body. Affecting the fit of the body, the doors, etc. I don't know if the CF dash is the same profile as the aluminum dash. But the link below to my Mk5 dash placement was confirmed with the body on. That's the only way to be 100% positive. I'm with you on hidden mounts, and you'll probably get other forum members that say hook and loop will work. But I have my doubts. All loaded up, the dash isn't light. Plus it's not straight across the face. Kind of bends a little and I'm just not sure how either the hook and loop will fail or more likely the adhesive to the dash or chassis brackets. I've done several schemes for hidden mounts on previous builds and they were a pain and I'm not so sure would have been easy to remove if I ever had to. I took the path of least resistance on my Mk5 build and I'm putting 10-32 screws through the dash into tabs. I'm using four with a fifth in the center which I probably won't use. I'll use black chrome screws which blend into the leather dash quite nicely. Another reason for the body on check is to make sure the mounting screws (if used) will be below the body lip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774217052

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Almost for sure that's too high. It doesn't need to be that high but more importantly the "wings" out on the end will almost for sure interfere with the underside of the body. Affecting the fit of the body, the doors, etc. I don't know if the CF dash is the same profile as the aluminum dash. But the link below to my Mk5 dash placement was confirmed with the body on. That's the only way to be 100% positive. I'm with you on hidden mounts, and you'll probably get other forum members that say hook and loop will work. But I have my doubts. All loaded up, the dash isn't light. Plus it's not straight across the face. Kind of bends a little and I'm just not sure how either the hook and loop will fail or more likely the adhesive to the dash or chassis brackets. I've done several schemes for hidden mounts on previous builds and they were a pain and I'm not so sure would have been easy to remove if I ever had to. I took the path of least resistance on my Mk5 build and I'm putting 10-32 screws through the dash into tabs. I'm using four with a fifth in the center which I probably won't use. I'll use black chrome screws which blend into the leather dash quite nicely. Another reason for the body on check is to make sure the mounting screws (if used) will be below the body lip.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774217052

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Good point on the outboard "wings" , I didn't even think about that. I should have followed my instincts. I wasn't going to drill the steering shaft holes using the template. I watched a couple YT videos of carbon dash installs, and they both used the template with no issues...so I decided to give it a try.

As far as the hook and loop, I've got faith in the material itself....like you mentioned though, the adhesive is the questionable part. If push comes to shove, maybe two screws at the far outboard edges along with the hook and loop, and maybe fab up another support off the top of the Snakebite filler panel on the tunnel panel.

I agree with Paul RE: fitment. I initially went hook and loop on my first car and quickly found out found when parked in the sun on a hot day the hook and loop itself stays together but the adhesive gives up. Another point is that even if the adhesive holds up if you ever want to take the dash loose the wraparound cowl that overlaps the top of the dash won't let you pull it back far enough to disengage the hook and loop. Better to use mechanical fasteners either from the front or hidden on the back that will let the dash drop straight down.

Jeff

I was very careful about drilling my first hole for the steering shaft not wanting to mess that up.
I centered the dash from side to side just making sure one wing wasn't way to one side or the other.
I then ran my steering shaft through the backside to get my location to drill my hole.
I found the template was off to one side a little more than I liked if I had used it.
I drilled a hole big enough to pass my steering shaft through and I still have plenty of room to elongate it if necessary when I do my body fitment.
I'm running one of the I.E.427 turn signal kits like you.
I was going to make brackets like you and Edwardb did and drill the brackets and install rivets nuts in them.
My plan is to use velcro to temporarily mount the dash until body fitment.
Once I figure that out I would then mark my dash for the screw locations is what my plan is.
I was planning on making 3 brackets but Edwardb's plan of 4 is probably a better plan so I may just build 4 brackets.

I'm almost finished with my glovebox and door then I can reinstall my gauges and start on that wiring.

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Originally Posted by TrackDay17

I was very careful about drilling my first hole for the steering shaft not wanting to mess that up.
I centered the dash from side to side just making sure one wing wasn't way to one side or the other.
I then ran my steering shaft through the backside to get my location to drill my hole.
I found the template was off to one side a little more than I liked if I had used it.
I drilled a hole big enough to pass my steering shaft through and I still have plenty of room to elongate it if necessary when I do my body fitment.

I was going to make brackets like you and Edwardb did and drill the brackets and install rivets nuts in them.
My plan is to use velcro to temporarily mount the dash until body fitment.
Once I figure that out I would then mark my dash for the screw locations is what my plan is.
I was planning on making 3 brackets but Edwardb's plan of 4 is probably a better plan so I may just build 4 brackets.

I'm almost finished with my glovebox and door then I can reinstall my gauges and start on that wiring.

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That was exactly what i was going to do....hindsight and all that, I should have stuck with that plan. Depending on how much I have to drop the dash, it might not be a big issue. I might just have to bit the bullet and use fasteners...If I paint them matte black, they should blend in and not be really to noticeable.

And yes, four brackets makes sense, since with three, one should be centered and it can't be with the hoop support right there.

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Originally Posted by CW_MI

And yes, four brackets makes sense, since with three, one should be centered and it can't be with the hoop support right there.

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Are you planning to do stripes? If so DO NOT install one in the center until the car is painted and put together because I can about 99% guarantee that what you think is the center won't be! I've seen it dozens of times! Make your middle bracket extra wide so that your fastener will hit it when you install them later after the painted body is on. If you're anything like me if I had to look at a screw that didn't line up with the center of the stripes every time I get in the car it would drive me CRAZY!!! :rolleyes:

Jeff

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Are you planning to do stripes? If so DO NOT install one in the center until the car is painted and put together because I can about 99% guarantee that what you think is the center won't be! I've seen it dozens of times! Make your middle bracket extra wide so that your fastener will hit it when you install them later after the painted body is on. If you're anything like me if I had to look at a screw that didn't line up with the center of the stripes every time I get in the car it would drive me CRAZY!!! :rolleyes:

Jeff

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That would definitely drive my crazy, and noted, thank you. No stripes on this build though.

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Are you planning to do stripes? If so DO NOT install one in the center until the car is painted and put together because I can about 99% guarantee that what you think is the center won't be! I've seen it dozens of times! Make your middle bracket extra wide so that your fastener will hit it when you install them later after the painted body is on. If you're anything like me if I had to look at a screw that didn't line up with the center of the stripes every time I get in the car it would drive me CRAZY!!! :rolleyes:

Jeff

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That is a great point and why I will avoid the center one as I do plan on stripes.

Jeff, my plan on stripes is to do a small center stripe in red with two wider black stripes.
Does the middle stripe make it easier or any more complicated for the painter ?
I'm guessing the center stripe is the baseline for the wider stripes or am I wrong ?

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Originally Posted by TrackDay17

That is a great point and why I will avoid the center one as I do plan on stripes.

Jeff, my plan on stripes is to do a small center stripe in red with two wider black stripes.
Does the middle stripe make it easier or any more complicated for the painter ?
I'm guessing the center stripe is the baseline for the wider stripes or am I wrong ?

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Center is center no matter what and everything lays out from there. Adding a third color is not especially more difficult if you plan ahead, it just results in more time for masking and clean up between colors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1767730376

Jeff

Attachment 228131

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Center is center no matter what and everything lays out from there. Adding a third color is not especially more difficult if you plan ahead, it just results in more time for masking and clean up between colors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1767730376

Jeff

Attachment 228131

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I'm considering BMW Laguna Seca Blue or Ford Leadfoot Gray as a main color.