Two things I need help with

The kits and the motors are on the way. A buddy and I will be building two roadsters in one oversized three car garage. Also on the property is another building with three storage type lifts in it. This building is down a hill in back of the home and garage and wouldn’t be as convenient to work out of in many ways. Because of this we decided the garage is where we’d build. Now for the questions:
1- Are we nuts not to use the building with the lifts. They are technically just for storage but certainly could get a car off the ground and even overhead.
2- How tall should jackstands be able to get a car off the floor to make work easier?
Thanks all…

A lift is not necessary to build the car, but can be convenient once the car is a roller. I am building a Coupe and have done all the work so far on jack stands. Set your stands high enough to be able to get under the car if you need to, but low enough to be able to get the car off the stands with a jack or two when it's ready.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1762290789

Build a rolling chassis dolly.

Greg

I did my entire build on jack stands. No chassis dolly either.

I would be cautious about working under a car on a lift that is not intended to be used that way. Lifts are great, but not necessary. I did most of my build with a rolling dolly and then jack stands. I did eventually buy a 4 post lift for parking reasons and it turned out to be very helpful for body work. You could always build the cars in the garage until they are at the go-cart stage and then consider using the lifts for later work.

James

There have been maybe a handful of times I wish I had a 2 post lift. But only to help with a few items, then I'd want it back on jack stands.

I think a 4 post lift would be in the way most of the time

Built and maintained on "modified" jackstands. Very stable. Floor needs to be in good shape. Easy to move around.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1706225576

Scott

I did my first couple builds with jack stands. You don't need to get underneath too much before the aluminum panels are installed. So maximize that time for brake lines, fuel lines, electrical harness, etc. Once the panels are on, you'll need to get under it occasionally. So high enough for crawling or a creeper. I've never used a rolling dolly. But that's not a bad idea either. In my last house I had a low height 2-post lift and our current house has room for a full height 2-post. I wouldn't be in the hobby without them. My back just can't take leaning over into the work. One of the misconceptions I often see is people think lifts are only for working under the car. Actually, at least for me, that's the least I use it. Mainly it's to put whatever I'm working on up at a comfortable height. For me, makes a huge difference. And I find myself constantly adjusting as I'm working as I move around to different things. A properly installed 2-post lift, with the car correctly positioned front-to-back, is completely safe. I have no qualms working under it. My lift is rated for 10,000 lbs. Even my finished builds are barely 25% of that. I helped a buddy work briefly on his Subaru on the lift. Other than that, it's only had my hobby cars on it. I have no desire to lift our DD SUV. I just finished doing the annual maintenance on our Coupe. Nothing better than an oil change and chassis lube while standing up under the car.

“Built and maintained on "modified" jackstands. Very stable. Floor needs to be in good shape. Easy to move around.“
I like that Scott. jackstands on dollies stabilized by turnbuckles, clever.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slideways

“Built and maintained on "modified" jackstands. Very stable. Floor needs to be in good shape. Easy to move around.“
I like that Scott. jackstands on dollies stabilized by turnbuckles, clever.

---

Worked for me! I had the garage floor reinforced to take a lift, just have not saved enough money for one yet.