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Ok Folks,
Got my engine all installed and was super proud of my work then come to realize as I went to hook up the manual clutch cable that my TKX trans that came with my BP347 is hydraulic. I have already installed all my wilwood pedal box and ran all the wires, brake lines, master cylinders etc etc. How f*#& am I to install the clutch master cylinder kit? do I need a different pedal box or is this a fairly easy fix?
Thanks.....
So you have a hydraulic release bearing now?
Its pretty easy to convert then. The Wilwood pedal box has the 3rd master cylinder space available.
You'll need a master cylinder of course. 13/16" is what I used and many others. Wilwood or Tilton, your choice
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-10373
You'll need a high pressure AN line
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-4121224BL
And a few adaptors
Also, you'll need to run a reservoir, of course
Too bad you already did the work for the cable, but I bet you'll be happy you ended up with hydraulic
Yah that’s how I figured I had a problem by the two hoses coming out of the bell housing….i have done some digging not as bad as I thought but my reservoir bracket which I was so proud of does not fit three and also a bunch of other changes…….if I could only kick my own ass….Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Just a thought:
If you have two reservoirs currently, you don't HAVE to use both for the brakes. I believe FFR expects you to use a single reservoir for both the brake MC's.
So you could use the other for the clutch
Not what I'd do, but is an option
The other option (not as good) is to pull the driveshaft, disconnect the transmission and pull it back, remove the bell housing and replace your hydraulic clutch with a manual fork. I would go with upgrading the pedal box if it were me but you can go to a cable clutch.
I've had cable clutches and hydraulic throwout bearings. The HRBs are soooo much nicer and smoother to operate. Just make sure to size the MC to the HRB that you have.
If you ordered with a manual clutch, I would call BPE for resolution. But, when I ordered mine they said the standard was the HTB so that was on the FF list for my order. My BPE came with the Mcloed and recommend 3/4 inch master cylinder. requires an-4 hose and runs from the master cylinder thru the side of the foot box. Many examples on the forum for routing.
F500 is correct. Your BP documentation will say 3/4" MC bore with a pedal stop for 1" of piston travel at the MC. I used a Tilton 75 with a 4AN banjo on the outlet. Just make sure your banjo bolt is the short one. If too long it will bottom out and prevent proper crush on the washers.
Pat
Oh geez, I have learned so much on this build but when these things come at me sideways I feel lost…..I just ordered the FF hydraulic clutch kit will this work for this application? I assumed it would based on what I saw others do….Quote:
Originally Posted by PMD24
Hey, just be thankful you don't have the body on already.
Adding another MC shouldn't be too much of a problem. And just use one reservoir for your brakes and one for the clutch, it's how mine is setup and works perfect.
Don't know what the FFR kit contains. Speak with them and ensure that it's a 3/4 bore. You set the travel with a stop that you will need to fabricate. The MC that FFR supplies is probably a 3/4" bore made by Wilwood, since FFR uses their pedal box. There are many posts here regarding Wilwood vs Tilton reliability. Might want to read those and come to your own conclusion. Opinions differ on this topic.
Also, Wizbang is correct. You don't need three reservoirs. You can use one for the brakes and one for the clutch. With a balance bar pedal box, using two reservoirs, one for front brakes and one for rear, serves no purpose. A failure of one system will render the other inoperable, even if on a separate reservoir.
Pat
Don’t forget the stop. I missed that and now have a MC dripping on my shoes that I have to replace with the body on.Quote:
Originally Posted by PMD24
The stop wouldn't prevent the MC from leaking, it is to prevent over extending the slave cylinder or the throwout bearing
Rich is correct, you either have a fitting or the MC leaking but it's not from overextending it.
Yep. Should have been clearer when I referred to the stop.
A stop is not necessarily needed for everyone. It’s situational depending on the throw of your slave and clutch pedal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnzo84
I got the FFR hydraulic clutch setup with my kit. It comes with a 3/4" Wilwood MC, a brake fluid reservoir, 90 deg fitting and a braided hose to connect the MC to the throwout bearing fitting. The 3/4" size MC supplied is appropriate for the Mcleoud throwout bearing according to the instructions. I have seen many people on here recommend that the Tilton MC is a far better upgrade to replace the Wilwood one with so since your going to install it anyways it might be worth looking into one or the other. I'm not sure what you have routed for your clutch line but the FFR hose they supply only has enough length to go through the footbox side wall and into the transmission tunnel. If you try to go through the front of the footbox you won't have enough length to make it. In all honesty its not terribly difficult to order your own parts either if you have a different preference where to route it.