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pedal Box on MK5 & Wilwood Brakes
So I went ahead and did a few more steps. I started to assemble the E Brake, but was missing pieces, which of course the piece I needed was not on the parts check in sheet as it was part within the EBrake box. Thus onwards to rear suspension and pedal box.
Rear Suspension. Of note, I wish the instructions mentioned that if you had a rear sway bar you would need to be put in ath the same time as the LCA and toe adjuster -- I should have read ahead and seen this! My toe and alignment is kinda wonky, but I will straighten it out fairly soon.
The Wilwoods I got centered fairly easy with the shims, no biggy. To tighten the CV I used a fan blade on the rotor to hold it steady.
The Diff plate, to hold it steady I used a screw driver between bolts and torqued. All my bolts went in flush and torqued easy. Pic if anyone needs it available.
The foot pedal box. I would recommend assembling this out of the car then installing. I had to shim the upper bracket to be parallel with the frame.
I am for the time being going with the manual clutch, as this is what I grew up with on some high HP cars, I may switch it in the long run.
The pedal arms from Wilwood I may also change. I would prefer these be CNC and brushed, as it would look good, and honestly you would not have to grind the casting ridge down if it was this way.
As usual, if someone sees something I am doing glaringly wrong LMK.
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MK5 Brake lines and Booster
After a delay due to working on another car, and of course the regular work, I got a chance to move forward.
Installed the Brake Booster (painted it Black), and ran my lines to the firewall where I connected with 3AN fittings (37 degree on AN). I then replaced the Wilwood MC fittings with the correct NPT fittings as I did not like the angle on the ones with the kit or the way the orifice on exit is clocked. I ran from the MC to the firewall, and am running from firewall to reservoirs via SS flex line, as I plan on mounting them on the backside of the engine bay.
Definite some learning curve as far as fittings, but great resources here and calling Wilwood.
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MK5 - No Adjustable Quadrant - Middle Trans cover oddities
Well, most the panels are on prior to powdercoating them Black. The rear panels had some wave to them, but after manipulation they seem ok. I had one panel on the inside passenger corner that did not fit perfect, but honestly corner behind the seat -- its in just not perfect.
Of note:
1. I was planning on using a manual clutch as I have had multiple Mustangs. Went to install a firewall adjuster - no way its going in. Interference on the front frame on the outside, if I flip the adjuster to have the short side out, interference with the actual quadrant. So now I am down to the fork adjustment I guess or go with adding a MC.
2. I think others have noted this, but the middle trans tunnel, I was planning ahead, and it looks like the bezel/trim is going to overlap between the shifter and ebrake. This is odd. I am still backordered on my parking brake handle for 6 months - so can not really mock up what I need to do to tackle this. All in due time is my reasoning on it. Watching what others do, weather it be wilwood ebrake switch or make a new panel.
Always some challenges, which make it more interesting. Overall still fun to work on and fun to see others projects.
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Gas Pedal and Manual Clutch Mods
So, I know many use the aftermarket pedal, which do look great. I am attempting to use the FFR pedal.
I have redrilled the hole and moved the pedal as far to the right as I think possible without interference with carpet/padding. If anyone has good knowledge of how far over you can go lmk. In addition I bent the upper bar to try and make the path of the cable as straight as possible and not hitting the Steering Shaft.
On the clutch cable -- for the time being I am going old school manual clutch, unless further down the line I decide to change. A few items of note:
1. The angle of the manual clutch is too harsh to run an adjuster at the wall.
2. The screw hole that holds the clutch in I have never liked as it is flimsy so I used a rivnut attachment
3. If you were to cut the sheet metal the same size as the hole you have like 2mm of sheet metal on the outside - it is extremely tight.
I plan on running the body attachment of the cable rivnuted to the panel. If my cable binds I plan on carrying an extra and being able to pull the cable out of the main firewall body and sliding the new one in. Not easy I know.
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Full Sunday of MKIV and V
Full day to work on the IV to try and catch up to the V!!
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