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Hello all, I'm on day 3 of the build, and I was wondering if any experienced builders could look at the front-end suspension and let me know if it roughly looks right, i have never done anything like this. I have no idea if it looks roughly right or not.
thanks
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I can't comment on the accurateness of that assembly since we haven't started our build yet, but based on your frame color and forged control arms it looks like you're doing an Anniversary Build. Very Nice!
In the meantime, I'll sit back and wait for the more experienced builders to comment.
Jon
I don't know if it makes a difference or not but I have my shocks positioned with the springs on top. (oppsite from yours)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1656889084
Scott
Scott is correct. The double adjustable Koni's have to be mounted body down. Also, the upper mount goes in the top hole for those shocks. Both are outlined in the build manual for those shocks. Can be missed because the manual also shows the standard red Konis. Everything else from what I tell looks OK. I'd clean up those cotter keys a little though. Ideally they should wrap around the nuts a little more neatly.
Great thanks!, Flip them.
Yeah, it's the anniversary one. The body came with a blue gel coat, which looks kinda like a good color for the finished paint.
hmmm, with them body down they are in conflict with the lower arm. And the bolt won't align. Has anyone had this problem? How did you resolve it? Grind the lower arm? I'm worried about compromising the strength of the lower arm. It also looks like it might hit when the suspension is compressed. hmmmm.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bwS_6LJzfF0
First, hopefully you confirmed in the manual where it says to mount those shocks body down and in the top holes. It's a brief mention "If using the silver double adjustable shocks, these must be mounted with the body of the shock down in the top hole location for both street and race cars." I checked into this in the past. It has to do with the valving of the shock. Only functions in the body down position.Quote:
Originally Posted by joelgw
I assembled those exact shocks into the new forged aluminum arms on my Mk5 Roadster 30th anniversary build just a few weeks ago. Should be exactly the same setup as you have. It's tight, but I didn't have any interference issues. Cropped picture attached. Can't explain why the bolt doesn't align either. Mine were fine. You're assembling with the suspension hanging in the full down position, right? Actually, because of the angle of the top mount, the clearance would be greater with the suspension up at ride height and further.
I don't know what to tell you other than to call Factory Five if you're convinced you're assembling it correctly. Don't be grinding on anything. It should not be necessary.
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Thank you so for your help!! I'm going to have another look at it tomorrow. If you got it to go it should I'll monkey around with it some tomorrow. Send you a high five when I get it.
Thanks again!!
Bob's your uncle!!!
thank you so much for the help!
Joel
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Live cam link: https://www.twitch.tv/joelgw1
Put the rear diff in. Took a few minutes but in she went!
https://youtu.be/Gb4Z82ph0zo?si=P7cZj07SboKPW6at
Quick question, it's been about 6 months since my car's completion date, and I have yet to receive the motor or wheels. Has anyone else experienced delays like this? They haven't told me why. Does anyone know what's up? This is the first time I've done anything like this, so I'm not sure if this is unusual or not.
thanks
You should call and speak with someone about it. I don't believe they are anywhere near that far behind. You're way too patient! :)
Yeah I've been emailing them once a month and some back and forth and nothing... at the beginning of November, I was told two weeks.... what can I do? I paid in full up front ... kinda frustrated
PM sent
Well, have a motor and transmission. After a long wait, I eventually asked for a refund and ordered it from Summit Racing. They got it to me in 4 days. really looking forward to getting the project moving again.
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Are you planning on swapping out the intake manifold for the single throttle body version? I don't think anyone has attempted to make the gen 4 intake fit yet.
Argggg, I was hoping it would fit.... I'll try and report back.... sheesh I hope it fits
Good luck, it looks like you may have bought the gen 4 vs gen 4x that has been popular for these builds. I didn't know the gen 4 was tunable but it looks like Ford now has a gen 4 specific control pack (M-6017-M50D) but I really don't know how all of that goes together considering your intake setup might be your biggest hurdle.
I looked hard at the Gen 4 instead of the 4X and just couldn't figure out a realistic way to accommodate both throttle body air filters. I am sure it can be done but will require some ingenuity. It's interesting. When I bought mine a year ago the 4 and 4X were prominently advertised right next to each other but it looks to me like Ford is phasing out the 4X. You can still buy it from Ford but Summit (where I bought mine last year) doesn't even list it. And the only Control Pack available seems to be only for the 4. Probably more to the story but that's what it looks like to me.
its been done and tested on Mustangs with no real gains until over 7k rpm when the 24 manifold stays in the power ban a little longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by bishes
https://youtu.be/W7c1hyKEv3w?si=Rr8FZfYUeHna8rD_
well i'm going to give it a try. I'll see if I can get it to work.
The complete kit came with the air intake " plumbing for the 4x. I wonder if I could just get a second one of these and not use the provided "box" intake? It's smaller. Would that work?
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I would strongly encourage you to call the Ford Racing tech line. They are very helpful and pretty knowledgeable and can probably direct you to what you can do and what you should do.Quote:
Originally Posted by joelgw
The short answer to your question is "probably" but it begs the question of "how many maf sensors are needed. Does the factory dual intake use two MAF sensors and then the ECM blends the information or does it just use one? The short answer is you can probably do what you're suggesting but you're going to have to make sure you have the correct control pack so the ecm knows what's going on. Hopefully this makes sense.
In other news. The accelerator pedal that came with the engine is a little different from the one in the manual. The mount design is different. I am designing an interface for it to mount to the foodbox bulkhead ( if that's the right term?). Here is what the pedal looks like and where I'm at with the interface. When it's done, I'll upload it to thingiverse.com for anyone to print. I am going to try printing it in Carbon fiber infused filiment and see if it's robust enough. If not, I'll make a silicone mold and cast it in carbon fiber and epoxy.
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ok, talked to Ford Performance and ...
"If you will be using our Control Pack(I am), you can change the tubes and filters. But, you will need to get a custom calibration."
It looks like this configuration is ok with a tune! cool. Pheew!
Just for fun, With the proper eyewear onboard, all that's left is to finish the darn car. Attachment 228330
Kurt Russel?