So, here's the grand plan. Would love feedback.

So, the time has come and after quite a bit of research I'm 99.9% certain of my build plan. Your thoughts are welcome.

MK4 base kit:

+
Powder coating
Cut outs
new A-arms
3 link rear-end
1996 steering rack
Vintage low back seats
17" Halibrands
Heater kit
96 conversion kit
rear Brake package
new FF 8.8" Rear-end

Donor: 1996 4.6 Cobra DOHC, 305hp, 300ft/lb torque, 5 speed. 105k miles. (already purchased); salvage for $4,300 and totally driveable. Going to part it out as I build.

Still needed:
a place to build it in or around Los Angeles! ;)
tires
wiring harness strip (wirediet seems a little steep, any other suggestions welcomed)
paint (chrome orange metallic with black roll bar, black side pipes, charcoal Halibrands, black interior, to stripe or not to stripe is the big question).

So, what do you pros think?

That 96 rear end can be converted to Fox width. Replace the axle shafts with fox shafts, then inboard and flip the disc brake brackets and you'll have a fox width rear end with discs. But if you don't know the condition of the diff, seals, brakes, etc. then getting all new isn't a bad deal either.

As Clemson mentioned you can save a good bit of money (a couple grand) by using the rearend and brakes that you already have on the '96. Spend $370 for a set of axles and caliper brackets from Richard Oben at North Racecars to bring it to the proper width and you're done.

RE: your '96 steering rack. Are you using power steering? If not be aware that virtually nobody likes the de-powered rack and most eventually replace it with a true manual unit. The FFR one will set you back $269 + $69 for the proper adaptor to couple it with the kit's steering shaft. If you opt to go power and retain your '96 rack you'll need a different $69 adapter to couple it's pyramid style shaft to the kit's steering shaft. At that point I'd recommend you consider using one of the popular rebuilt Fox body racks from Autozone. All three ratios run right around $100 and will not require a shaft adapter so you're starting with a fresh rack for about a $30 difference.

Good luck,
Jeff

Save the powder coating and POR15 your frame, also save the $ on the cut outs.

I have nothing against the vendors who provide dieting services or provide new harnesses. But I think a good way to save money and get more familiar with aspects of your car is to do the wire diet yourself. Buy the full set of wire diagrams for your donor so you'll know what each wire is for. Since your donor is drivable, you know the harness is good. As you disassemble your donor, label all the connectors so you know what they went to. Before you start the diet, make sure you have a plan for what you want to cut out and what you want to keep (for example: ABS circuits - keep or cut out?). If you are not going to use the donor gauge pod, you may want to get a computer flasher so you can disable PATS in the computer.

Dieting the harness is not hard. It IS tedious work, and can be done if you have the patience. When you get it done, there's a great sense of accomplishment that you did it yourself (and the car still runs!).

David

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Originally Posted by riptide motorsport

Save the powder coating and POR15 your frame, also save the $ on the cut outs.

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I have to disagree with Steven on powdercoating. Unless you plan to make numerous mods to the chassis or insist on a color other than black the PC at $399 is a screaming deal. I'm have kind of a take it or leave it opinion on cutouts (although for the sake of simplicity I took it both times).

Jeff

Certainly not a pro, but:

Cut outs: I didn't order mine that way, but it came with them already done. While not terrible, I had to adjust a few of them to get them correct. I'll order the next one without them done.

Steering rack: As Jeff said, if you're not going with power steering, don't use the donor rack. I haven't seen much discussion on this lately, but when I was ready to order, there was much disatisfaction posted about the depowered the Mustang racks. I got the FFR manual rack, by Unisteer, and love it, but some prefer power steering. To each his own on this one.

Wire diet: I agree with David. It took me many hours to do my own, but by carefully labeling, using diagrams, and posting a couple questions, I was very happy with the results. When you're done the diet, you will really know the harnesses.

I used the power steering from my 2000GT donor and really enjoy it. It was easy to install and has been totally reliable. I recommend you use the donor brakes and ABS too. I mounted the ABS unit to the front frame brace. These brakes provide excellent stopping power. Good luck with your build, it is a blast!
Art

Thanks for all of your advise guys. The wiring harness seems to be a big thorn in many people's sides. I'll shop around and when the time comes I'll decide if I want to attempt it or just have it done. I'm not afraid to spend to get it done right. I debated on the cut-outs as well, but for $140 I don't think it's the smartest thing for me to risk and screw up, thus ruining the whole body. I weigh the cost of the tools needed versus just having it done correctly.

I am leaning towards power steering right now but if it gets crazy I have no problem with the manual.

The rear end comments definitely give me something to think about. I'm going to run the 17" 10.5's in the back so I need the proper fitment and the FF 8.8" rearend is a guarantee but it is quite expensive ($1,599). I'll talk to my mechanic buddy and see his input.

The 1996 Cobra is a decent driver and seems quite solid. Probably going to work on the engine and make sure everything is perfect before installing. I have no problem using the donor for as many parts as possible and I've only heard good things from those that chose the modular route.

Thanks again for your input.

Damon

I got the body cut-outs. For the money and adjusting I had to do to them, I will do my own next time. It saved no time.

Donor harness on my '93 (simplier than the newer ones by a bit, I'd guess, but not that much simplier???) I did the diet. Time vs. money. Buddy had his sent out to be done, now he's adding stuff back into it because he changed a few things during the build. I actually enjoyed the diet process. And, I got exactly what I wanted because I did it. YMMV

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nomads2000

The rear end comments definitely give me something to think about. I'm going to run the 17" 10.5's in the back so I need the proper fitment and the FF 8.8" rearend is a guarantee but it is quite expensive ($1,599).

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The axles and barckets from Richard are a guarantee also. It will wind up Fox width just like the FFR unit.

I can speak for Wire Diet---when it comes back from Art it will be pretty much "plug & play" as far as engine controls. The remainder for lighting, gauges, etc. will be well labled with instructions. If you are apprehensive about tackling it yourself spend the money that you don't have to put into the FFR rearend and brakes towards the wire diet ;)

Jeff

I didn't see it mentioned (I might have missed it), but I think the '96 spindles will set your front tires out beyond the fenders.
The SN95 ('94 or '95) spindles are the best donors or the new FFR re-engineered are even better (but a little pricey).

I did some research and talked to some guys that recently built and they convinced me the the cut-outs were not a good expenditure. Do them yourself; save the money and time repairing FFR's misalignments.

4-into-4 headers! (too cool! :cool:)

I had the cutouts on my MKIV and just did all the lights, windshield etc. Even though I had to adjust the cutouts (especially the windshield) I still felt it was worth the extra money. But, I never seem to have the right tool/blade to cut accurate holes so I knew I would screw them up!

Thanks for all the comments and input guys. It's much appreciated. I'm very excited/nervous to start this project but mostly excited. Yes, that's what I'll go with, excited.

Thanks again, Damon

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nomads2000

Still needed: a place to build it in or around Los Angeles! ;)

So, what do you pros think?

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I think this is the first thing you better arrange for!:D

You could try and get a hold of Chuck Fields (Mustang Medic) re a pre-dieted harness. His prices are very reasonable, and made that aspect of the job a snap. I saved at least two weeks, where I was able to work on other areas of the build, instead of looking over a mile of wires..lol

=Re the 8.8" rear, you can overhaul it completely, for less than a new one, if $ is a concern.
=Dump the de-powered rack idea, if in fact that's what you had in mine. better to buy a Flaming River unit.
-Yes to the three link
-Yes to powder coat. I don't think you can get it done locally for less than what FFR charges, and it's one less hold up on starting the build.
-Unless a heater (defogger) is mandatory in your state, seat heaters may be all you need. This would give you room for a glovebox, and save time building. Now that being said, the Vintage heater works great in my car.
-Personal choice, but the 15" wheel and tires do look pretty sweet on our Roadsters. $ saved
-Vintage seats currently provided by FFR are very comfortable, look more original. Downfall is no headrest, if rear ended.
-Yes to cut outs, not that expensive. Sure they need some adjusting, but another time saver, (especially if you screw up cutting them yourself:(..)

Use the donor Power Steering and Power Brakes. Will save you money and increase your driving comfort.
(do some research on using the '96 units or turn them in as cores for Remanufactured units from different years. (I'm running '93 PS and brake boosters / disc brakes all reman'd).

Officially ordered today! :-)

I stuck to the original plan as mentioned above minus the lowback seats. From what I've read and understand the donor car is a great starting point and I'm sure I'll replace and/or rebuild as I go along. Should be pretty amazing.

Any suggestions on shipping would be welcome. A lot of guys seem to be defaulting to Stewart but $2,000 is a lot to add to the build cost. Any alternatives (I even checked u-haul and it would have been MORE to rent and drive). I'm okay with open transport.

Damon

I don't think you'll find much cheaper than stewart. You might save a little by having them not deliver to your house (and instead come pick it up at their hub), but it's probably not that significant.

Damon, where are you located?
If you ship with other than Stewart, I think you will have to pay FFR a crating fee. I wouldn't trust a regular freight company to ship it all loose.

Any friends with a nice car trailer?

Damon,
I used a 20ft enclosed trailer. Everything fit well, plus I got to see some sights and best of all a tour of the Factory Five HQ. I now use the trailer for shows. You can easily find a used one for what you would pay for it to be shipped.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AC Bill

Damon, where are you located?
If you ship with other than Stewart, I think you will have to pay FFR a crating fee. I wouldn't trust a regular freight company to ship it all loose.

Any friends with a nice car trailer?

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Damon, I started off using the donor wiring harness and soon realized it's very time consuming. Suggest you buy the harness from F5. I did and it was an easy install with all the connections labeled and properly terminated. Wiring is black magic to me so I was pleasantly surprised when everything I plugged in worked.
Hope this helps................racecartom

If you look through this and the other forum, I think you will gather that Stewart is the real deal. Sometimes there is a lot to be said for someone who does something every day as their main line of work vs someone else who can get it done only by figuring it out as he goes. As long as you will have the axle somewhat apart to swap axles and caliper brackets be sure to rebuild the limited slip unit. It's about $70 in parts and then you may never need to take the diff apart again. Oh, read up on whether to mount the calipers forward or backward before you do the swap. I am seeing more and more who mount them forward for coliover clearance and nicer emergency brake cable routing. DO, DO power steering. Use the donor rack for now and if it is too quick, you can always swap another in easily for about $125 (Autozone).