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I have a Forte's Coyote Gen III build with a Tremec TKX. I had this problem with the stock FFR shifter, where the rubber boot would bunch up and not allow the lever to stay engaged in 1st gear. I had to switch to a Hurst lean-back lever. Anyone else have this problem? Any thinner rubber or leather boots out there that would be a straight replacement to the stock round boot supplied by FFR? Has anyone gone with a a more rectangular boot, to provide the extra clearance?
Thanks,
32J
I had a similar issue with the FFR rubber boot. I replaced it with a Holley three piece unit with a leather boot. The mounting allows you to remove the boot and upper piece without taking up the tunnel cover. Very handy and looks great. I got it from Summit.
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Hundreds to choose from on amazon
Also had trouble with FFR rubber boot pulling first out of gear. Think I got this one from FFR, soft leather. Uses their mounting ring.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1723411338
I used a Drake Scott Leather Boot and a Stainless Mounting Ring and knob from Lokar.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-dr...-1993/p/MSB18/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-70-sfr
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-sk-6933
You can see how it turned out on my ZF 6-Speed Gear Box around 1:50 - 2:03 in the video link below:
https://youtu.be/9WEe6-wdNtA
I made a little adaptor to raise the shifter about an inch. It was simply a piece of steel with 3 holes. 2 holes lined up with the threads on the shift base and a third hole above that. I attached the shifter to the top 2 bolts. It worked pretty well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1628640782
Same issue, my fix was a shifter with a little taller tab before the bend same idea as Blitzboy above, I purchased a shift lever from Modern Drive line.
I hadn't heard of this before. Is it only a problem with the rear-shift location, or also with mid-shift like mine? I can't see how the boot would interfere.
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I hope I explain this well enough. I can only speak for my experience but it seems others have noticed it as well., In my case using a TKX trans, the hole in the top of the tunnel is barely large enough for the throw of the stock shifter lever to 5th gear the rubber boot would gather and have resistance, it appears the stock shifter lever bent forward too close to the mount of the trans shaft. Couple of fixes here have been to extend the shaft where the lever bolts on (as Blitzboy), change the shifter to one what has the bend higher on the stick (my fix) or maybe change to a leather boot. It appears you have already changed shifter so I think you've avoided this all together.
Thanks Jeff.
Thanks to all who have replied. The Hurst shifter i have works fine, but it would be nice to have the shift lever a bit closer to the steering wheel. I still have the stock lever from FFR and I was curious if people found a way to make it work with different boot material.
No, you won't have any problems. The issue in this thread is with the forward shifter. When you shift down to 1st or 3rd because of the geometry of the shift handle it bunches up the boot and causes resistance. If you build your tunnel exactly like the manual says to I think everything clears. A lot of builders add upholstery and other things that raise the tunnel a bit and causes interference. Your shifter is straight up and down. You are all set.Quote:
Originally Posted by OB6
About that Hurst boot from Summit. Here is the P/N https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUU-116500HST Its biggest selling point to me was once you screw the upper and lower base plates on the tunnel top you will not have to mess with removing the 4 nuts on the bottom of the tunnel cover. The boot & retainer comes off with 4 blind screws. Anyone with some sort of attachment on the front of the tunnel know what a pain in the a** it is getting the 4 lower nuts off. This sytem eliminates that. I have a circuit breaker box that drops down from the Carbon Fiber dash and I have an extension on my shifter these made it a pain to remove the boot.
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Attachment 206518Quote:
Originally Posted by 32J
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Attached photos illustrates the issue. I had originally requested the TKX in the mid-shift position, but I think Mike Forte realized that it had to go the rear position to clear the tunnel cross member. The forward position would be too close to the dash. I cut the whole in the tin centered on the turret. Had I known the boot would provide so much interference in 1st (and 3rd), I would have cut the hole offset to the front of the car by maybe 1/2" to 1". Interference is only an issue when you use the shift lever in the alternate, forward lean position.
I think I'll try to source a leather boot and try the stock lever again.