Jim's Gumball2 Build Thread

A first for me: I'm going to attempt to document my Factory Five assembly in this build log.

First, a little background. This is my second Factory Five build. I purchased a Cobra kit in 2000 (FFR 2117), drove it 46.6K miles then sold it 5 years ago. After selling the Roadster, I bought a low mileage 2003 manual transmission C5 Vette. A very nice car, but it didn't scratch the itch like the Cobra did. So, I sold it this March and ordered the Mark 4 complete kit in May. The Roadster (FFR 10990) arrived July 26th, and after completing the inventory, the actual build commenced August 4th. Options I purchased included the IRS package, chrome roll bar (only item remaining on backorder/POL), 15" Halibrand wheels, 11.65" brakes, oil cooler, power steering, leather seats, vintage GPS gauges and some other odds and ends. One other item I requested was the base version driver side front footbox aluminum panel. When I built my first car, I used a Flaming River manual rack and manual brakes with the modified pedal. A few years later I retrofit a power steering system and while I was at it, installed Hydroboost assisted brakes. I can't overstate how much I enjoyed the power steering and brake upgrades. So, this car's using a 1995 Mustang pedal box allowing the relatively easy installation of vacuum assisted brakes, and as I mentioned above, I ordered the power steering option from Factory Five.

When I built my first car, I utilized the forums extensively for ideas and guidance. And now with YouTube, etc. there's so much more information available, well, it's fantastic. (I've already used I.E. 427 (Frank), Mike Everson, Paul Borror and others' expertise in my build.)

Anyway, I'm well into my build (I'm retired, so lots of time to dedicate to the project). Photos and more updates to follow.

I've attached a couple pics of 2117, licensed in Utah as "GUMBALL", hence this Gumball 2 build.

Frank does a pretty great job of breaking things down. Since you have already done one you are miles ahead of me but I am looking forward to reading about gumball 2.

Dan

Obligatory delivery pics...

Here's some front suspension and "F" panel pics.

Here's a pic of the vacuum booster spacer provided by Mike Everson as well the frame mod needed for booster/diaphragm clearance.

The rear suspension install was pretty straightforward, though I needed a Buddy to help me install the differential.

However, when I installed the rear spindles, I didn't know that I'd need to cut off an additional ear to facilitate the installation of the 11.65" brakes. Sure would have been nice if Factory Five had made a note of that in the instruction booklet. Because I didn't feel comfortable trying to cut off the ears with the spindles mounted to the vehicle, off they came for the surgery.

Here's a few photos of the front brakes. As you can see, I used Mike Everson's booster spacer, a vacuum booster from Amazon, and a 1995 Mustang Cobra master cylinder.

I purchased a used 1995 Mustang pedal box from a salvage yard in Georgia. It arrived very clean and in great shape, and even had new pedal pads installed. However, I installed a new brake light switch as well as a Steeda clutch quadrant and a new clutch interlock switch pigtail.

So far I've installed a couple of used Mustang parts in the build: the pedal box as well as an emergency brake handle. So I'll probably have some Wilwood parts for sale in the future...

The rear brakes posed a couple of problems; first, I had a hell of a time installing the brake pads, and even more frustrating, when I went to tighten the passenger side banjo bolt, it snapped in half. (A forum search showed that I wasn't the first builder to have the banjo bolt issue.)

More rear brake line pics. I've also included a photo of the broken banjo bolt, which appears to consist of a low-grade alloy. There's also a pic of the Wilwood part number of the banjo bolts I'm using in the rear calipers. The Wilwood bolts seem to be of a much higher quality.

As mentioned above, I'm using an E-brake handle out of a 1998 Mustang. Connected to it are new cables for the same year car.

The setup seems to work well, at least better than the under-round-tube cables and Lokar handle used on my Mark 1 build.

With this post I'm now up to date.

Today I mounted my fuel tank. As mentioned in a separate forum post, I'm debating whether to go with a Sniper 2 fuel injection system or a good old fashioned carburetor. Since I'm currently undecided on which way I'm going to go, I'm planning on installing a fuel supply system that can support either choice with the option of which fuel pressure regulator is utilized.

I'm using a Pro-M fuel pump hanger which incorporates AN-6 fittings on both the supply and return lines. Attached to the hanger is a Walbro 255 lph pump. I've got a Trick Flow fuel pressure regulator currently on order. Now I've just got to order fittings, etc. and I can begin running the fuel lines.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...637707691n.jpg

Over the past couple of days I attached/riveted the insulated brake line clips to the chassis and shortened the rear legs of the upper control arms. I ended up shortening the legs by about 9/16", so I should be able to get to the desired caster/camber values for power steering.

Today I finished test fitting Frank's (i.e.427) dropped trunk kit and began the install of the Breeze front-mounted battery box.

I made the fuel level sender and pump covers removable instead of being riveted on as directed in the instructions.

I've spent the last month primarily prepping my engine for eventual installation in the chassis. It's a BluePrint 302 that I've dressed to be more "vintage Cobra appropriate". To me that means COBRA valve covers and a repo 289/302 Hi-Po air cleaner. I've also added a reverse rotation water pump, bracketry, power steering pump and an alternator from March. I've got BBK shorty headers because I'm going with an undercar exhaust system similar to my earlier build.

Here's a photo of the engine from BluePrint's Web site.

And this is what it looks like now, after installation of the accessories. (I'll decide later if I'll attached the Hi-Po 302 decal to the air cleaner. It's just sitting on there for the pic.)Attachment 206515

Ah, "undercar exhaust system". Are you meaning rear exhaust? I'm a few months into building a Mk 4 289 USRRC-style, but am angling for how to pull off a rear exhaust system. I have plenty of ideas and some mental "mock-ups", but curious the direction you're taking. I had five different '65 GT350s with side exhaust in the period of 1968 through 1978 and the side exhaust was getting tiring. And that was with roll-up windows! I'm installing a BP 347/Tremec. Carbureted.

Nope, not rear exhaust. I'm planning on doing the same thing as on my first FFR; using Spintech low-profile mufflers and having the exhaust exit immediately in front of the rear tires. I suspect that my exhaust will be similar to your Mustangs' exhaust systems. And if you think your Mustang or my Cobra's exhaust systems are loud, they're a lot quieter than the typical Cobra side pipes. (My first Cobra initially had FFR's side pipes; way, way too loud for me. That's why I went undercar.) Also, the Spintech mufflers may be quieter than the glass mufflers I assume were used on your Mustangs.

Okay, got it! That would be very similar to the '65 Shelby's, but quieter not having the louder glass packs.
I was considering that approach, too. My 1963 Cobra (owned in 1969) had exactly that style. Never drove it, as it was very slightly damaged at the LF body and lower A-arm. Too bad.

Looks like it's coming along nicely. If you end up needing more hands to install the engine I'd be happy to help. I'm on the east side of SLC.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jacob McCrea

Looks like it's coming along nicely. If you end up needing more hands to install the engine I'd be happy to help. I'm on the east side of SLC.

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Jacob, I may take you up on your offer. We moved up to Midway from Sandy a year ago, so I don't know many local guys able to aid in any car-related activities, like installing an engine or dropping a fiberglass body onto an FFR chassis.:)

Reach out any time. 412-651-four six three four. I am up on the mountain often enough and even if not can head up any time.

Over the past few weeks, including a 9-day Thanksgiving trip to California, I've been working on the fuel system.

A couple of months ago I ordered 25' feet of 3/8" steel fuel line from Summit; however, it came in a coil but I couldn't get it straightened enough to work for me. So, then I tried 3/8" copper-nickel fuel line, better but not good enough. So, like some other builders, I ponied-up and ordered two 8' sticks of straight stainless steel tube from McMaster-Carr. Much better!

As shown in the attached pics, I'm using a Pro-M hanger for the 255 LPH fuel pump, a Trick Flow fuel filter, and an Edelbrock fuel pressure regulator for a carbed application.

Now I've got to build the flex lines. (I've already got the Fragola PTFE fuel line and fittings.)

Today I completed installation of the fuel system, including connecting the PTFE hoses and hard-mounting the 3/8" SS lines to the chassis.

And here's the supply and return lines to and from the fuel pressure regulator.

Earlier this week I installed my starter index plate, flywheel and bell housing. I then checked the housing for concentricity with the crankshaft and found that it was out of the called-for maximum runout of 0.005". So I purchased some offset dowel pins from Summit which I installed today. I rechecked runout and am now well within spec.

Here's a few pics of the process, with one showing my shop helper.

Within the next couple of days I should have the transmission connected to the engine, then it's time to install the package into the chassis.

Today I installed the clutch, bell housing, transmission, starter, and Canton oil filter adapter. Unfortunately, when I removed the transmission from the shipping box, I noticed that the orange plastic sleeve/plug used to prevent oil leaks from the tailshaft was damaged. Ultimately, I was able to remove the plug but damaged the tailshaft seal in the process. I called Silver Sport Transmissions and they're supposed to be sending me a new seal.

I spent yesterday and today fitting the dash to the chassis.

I welded four 3/4" x 3/4" x 1" tabs to the underside of the dash hoop so I can easily install and remove the dash once the body is fitted. I drilled and tapped a 10-24 threaded hole in each of the tabs so I can use SS hardware to attach the completed dash to the chassis. There's a larger tab in the center of the dash hoop that I can drill and tap in the future if I decide I need an additional fastener.

Some friends and fellow Cobra owners/builders/enthusiasts braved the weather today and drove up to our house to help me install my engine.

A big Thank You! to Scott, Dirk, Joe, Todd and Jake. With their help, the install was a piece of cake, with no scrapes, scratches or mishaps.

Now it's on to wiring, and installation of the clutch cable, mechanical throttle linkage, etc...

The last few days have been dedicated to installation of the clutch cable and the IRS driveshaft. Like most things in life, nothing is as simple as you think it should be. (The driveshaft was a bit of a challenge.)

Did you have to drill out the holes in your shifter handle to accommodate the TKX shifter bolts? My bolts were too big. Fortunately, and inexplicably, my kit came with a short shifter that fit. Attachment 208726

Looks like the build is going well!

Did you upgrade to the ford clutch cable? I know some folks that have had the FFR cable crap out pretty quickly. Seems the can’t handle the heat and with melts or gums up. Just want to make sure take the opportunity to upgrade it while access is not much of an issue.

gbranham: Yes, I used a 3/8" bit to drill out the FFR shifter to fit the TKX lever. (I went slow and used lots of cutting paste to drill the two holes. Only took about 10 minutes or so.)

TTimmy: Yes, I upgraded to the Ford Performance clutch cable. It's the one I used in my first build. I put over 46,000 miles on it with zero issues. (I've read about builders having problems with the FFR provided cable.) This is what I ordered from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7553-C302

The last few days have been dedicated to installation of the Forte mechanical throttle linkage.

One of the things I wasn't crazy about on my first build was the cable-actuated throttle. I used a Lokar cable and although it worked, sometimes it would stick a bit and cause a slight idle hang. Most of the problems with the system could probably be attributed to the convoluted routing. (A large "S" bend from the front of the footbox to the rear side of the carb/throttle body.)

So, one of the early decisions with this build was to try Forte's mechanical throttle linkage.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the install. However, I did have a couple of minor issues, one of which was self-inflicted.

To provide a solid mounting base for the two rod ends, I welded a couple of 2" x 2" angle brackets on the passenger side of the firewall to the top of 2" x 2" square tube. I then bolted the rod ends through the firewall and angle brackets, providing a nice, solid mount for the 3/8" shaft. However, I initially drilled the holes in the angle brackets about an inch too high, causing the driver side throttle lever to hit the top of the footbox. Whoops! So, I redrilled the angle brackets about an inch lower, providing adequate clearance for the footbox throttle lever. The black blanking plates shown in the attached pics are what I fabbed-up to cover the mis-drilled holes. (Don't tell anybody!!! But hopefully my screwup will prevent someone else from making the same mistake)

In my install I placed the two lever arms parallel with each other in an attempt to eliminate any wonky geometry and make the gas pedal-to-carb actuation as linear as possible. I guess I'll see how that works once I get my car on the road.

The second issue was due to my use of a Mustang pedal box. The rod from the Breeze throttle pedal to the driver side lever arm was hitting the clutch/brake cross-shaft in the pedal box. So, I redrilled the hole in the throttle pedal about an inch lower, providing the necessary clearance.

Now I'm working on connecting the fuel system to the carb and running a vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster. That will conclude most of the mechanical work, then it's on to more wiring.

The past several days have been dedicated to wiring the distributor, alternator and starter, and fitting the battery cables.

Doesn't seem like much progress considering the number of hours I spent, but I guess that's the way it goes...

The last few weeks have been dedicated to continuing wiring the car and other things that crop up during the process that may affect access, such as installing a remote oil filter bracket.

I fabricated an aluminum bracket that's attached to the front X-member, with the bracket used to mount the remote oil filter.

I've also incorporated what I think are some good ideas found on the Forum and well as YouTube. Like Frank's (i.e. 427) idea to mount the headlight switch on the left side of the steering wheel and mounting the inertia switch on the right side of the dash in an effort to make the area behind the gauges a little less crowded. I also installed the trailer converter for the taillights in the rear harness, but instead of installing it behind the dash, I spliced it in near the fuel tank.

The last couple of weeks have been primarily dedicated to wiring; however, yesterday I completed installation of the remote oil filter hoses.

I've also installed the Breeze lower radiator hose. Clearance is TIGHT between the stainless steel tube and nearby equipment; with the battery box on one side and the oil filter on the other.

I was also able to plumb the power steering hoses.

Today I pretty much finished my dash assembly and wiring.

Installation and removal should be relatively easy with three plugs for the Ron Francis harness and a couple of 3-pin Weather Packs; one for the hazard switch and another for Frank's (i.e.427) turn signal switch.

Not related to my build, but here's a couple of BBK exhaust header pics for Steve Grube (Grubester).