Watermans MKIV Build - Kit 207937

Hi all, first post on my new build thread. I thought I should post what I have being doing since receiving my complete kit in February of this year 2024. As an engineer and jack of all trades I have be doing some custom mods and additions as I move along, now on about page 300. Roadster is has had the first start and I have taken it up and down my long gravel driveway several times with the usual problems like oil leaks, brake adjustments and overheating/coolant leaks. I will start posting more now I have the thread started.
First pic is driving home to Rochester NY on Feb 6th.
Second pic is Roadster Today 8/12/24

What engine did you choose for your build ?

Technology is great when it works. Had a good sized post going and lost it as I tried to add pictures. I need to read up on how to do other than a quick reply.
For today the engine question is I sourced a good running 1979 T-Bird Carb 302 with 98k original miles. Purchased from a junkyard where engine was still in the original car, so NY DMV will like that engine has documented history. Engine runs well and will not require any emission controls like if I purchased a crate engine.
The plan is/was to replace with a 347 EFI engine but not initially. I will see how I enjoy the car and may choose to just put some tuning $ into this one over the winter.
I see one pic was attached in the end of the New York state required 3rd brake and reverse light comb. More on that later.

Roll bar lights - Per New York DMV and my preference, I need a high 3rd brake light and reverse light. After much searching I found a DOT approved long thin combo light to fit on a tube spanning the roll bar supports. Light is an Optronics STL264RBP. There are no changes to the main roll bars just thin tubing welded onto the supports creating two “L” supports. Then one smaller tube inside the “L”s to keep them in line and structural. The two “L”s do not touch with about a 1/2” gap needed to insert them into the lower support mounts. Wiring comes out his smaller tubing at the center. The 3rd brake light was tied into the rear brake light wire ahead of the trailer light converter, which is mounted over the fuel level sender, at the access hole. The reverse light switch on TKX tranny connect the ground to a relay mounted in the rear cubby. Power is taken from a switched hot wire. I will be final painting the roll bar mod after the body is on for the last time.

I'm glad we don't have such restrictive rules in Kansas, I am leaning towards a Coyote for my planned build next year.

Trunk Filler Panel - The MK4 complete kit does not include any aluminum panels to trim the inner walls of the upper trunk. Many of you have made your own panels to cover the back corners but the area around the roll bar support stubs is difficult. The roll bar stubs are wider than the frame at the trunk floor. Instead of trying to form aluminum around the stub I used some 1/8” textured ABS sheets. I was able to form a variable relief for the stubs using a heat gun, 2” pipe and a vise. Heat, support over a 3” gap in the vise and press the pipe into the one side. Panel contour came out nice and I was able to pop rivet it to some flattened metal conduit, which bridged the void to outer panel. See picture.

I have been to lots of car shows and talked with many cobra owners. Snake bites from side exhaust are prevalent, so I decided early on to run exhaust under the car.(wife helped make the decision) Several have done this and I have used the same 7000 Cruiser Round Collars - Low Profile 2.25” Mufflers. My setup seemed to come out a bit different and maybe better. Lowest part of exhaust is about 1 3/8” below the 4” tubes. Since I am not racing the car I plan to run ride height at 5” and the 2.25” vs 2.5” exhaust is all that is needed for good torque. Since I have IRS the exhaust terminates in front of the rear wheels. So far in my limited go karting, the 302 has a good bark without needing ear plugs. My main concern is the fuel line runs quite close to the mufflers but I have insulated both and run an in-tank pump to a carb. Most difficult part of fabrication was going from forward pointing shorties to under the foot boxes. First elbow is 2.5” like headers and then I transitioned to 2.25”, however standard radiuses were too large so all elbows were “tweaked/shortened”. When I do it again, to all SST (to look better) I will transition to 2.25” right near the headers. Mufflers are tilted up into the under seat area with the tubing holding the inlet and outlet at the low point. Yes I made a wooden adaptor for my lift since the front arms are not quite long enough to reach the narrow 4" tubes. It also acts as a spacer for the exhaust. Regards Waterman
5/28/25 Update - I am very happy with the end result. Sounds very good with a bark but not too loud like the side exhausts. Visually I added some 3" polished SST outlets cut at angle. These screw into the 2.25" pipe in 2 planes so they are rigid but there is a big gap letting air in as exhaust rushes by. Attachment 214392

5/28/25 (this was supposed to go as a reply to an earlier question on engine used). I sourced a good running 1979 T-Bird Carb 302 with 98k original miles. Purchased from a junkyard where engine was still in the original car, so NY DMV did like that engine has documented history. Engine runs well and will not require any emission controls like if I purchased a crate engine. I am using the old alternator and power steering pump with V-belts. Looks nice and vintage. The one big change was I wanted a more modern ignition system so did an inexpensive hybrid. I used the original big cap distributor as the trigger for a GM, yes GM HEI module mounted on an aluminum plate/heat sink on front of Pas foot box.(along with the alternator external regulator) Added a new 12v all the time solid state coil and engine runs great. This hybrid HEI is a common upgrade for older Ford small blocks. Someday I may go to a 347 crate motor but upgrading this one with better heads, manifold and EFI is a definite maybe.(and a lot cheaper). The power steering pump normally is mounted higher and much wider so I made a couple simple brackets, some spacers and drive the pump direct from the crank. All good and simple.

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My dash layout is a bit different so I thought I should post what I did. Car is complete so I can now say I am very happy with it. Everything is visible and within reach. I knew I wanted to start with the competition layout and tweak it. I ordered the blank dash from FFR and made templates of all the gauges and switches then taped them on while I sat in the seat with steering wheel installed. The ignition switch and battery cutout were mounted in a custom under dash panel. Attachment 214398
For the heater I used a power valve so an on/off switch was used. Turn signals and horn were are on the steering wheel stalk from I.E.427. I wired in using the Hot Rod sub harness provided with MK4. I used the green indicator lights in tandem with the speedo turn lights for vintage look. Only other unique item is the red light over steering wheel. This is a Brake light right off the switch. I find it nice to know when exactly brake light comes on. For mounting I used 2 large screws, one on each side mounted to L brackets off dash tubing hoop. Body lip holds the dash tight to the hoop and now dash can be removed with body on.
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So my 2024 MK4 kit is now on the road in upstate NY, Rochester area. I sent in the 2 paperwork packages to Albany DMV April 24th and obtained my license plates June 30th. The basic process steps have been well documented on this forum but some details are dependant on who reviews your docs. In the end I talked direct to both departments in Albany DMV, Tech and Salvage ,who assigns the VIN. For the Technical review I received notice that there were 3 issues. My reverse lights were only DOT marked and not SAE. I had to source some larger ones and mount off the bumpers with DIY brackets. They did not like the fact that I went to a certified scale and weighed the car on trailer and then subtracted the trailer weight. I had to go back and unload car, weigh and then reload at a busy truck stop.(fun). For the engine I was told(suggested) by Albany a year ago that best to use a pre 1980 engine/block with traceability so that no emissions controls were needed. New engine, then yearly emission inspection is required, I was told. But even with my 1979 T-bird 302 from local junk yard, Tech guy came back wanting a pic of engine, bill of sale of engine and an emissions statement. Something to the effect, I am replicating a 1965 Cobra such as I am using an engine of that era and so have only a PCV valve. I had a good conversation with Curtis who reviewed these 3 issues with me. He was easy to talk with but firm on meeting the rules. For the VIN # assigned by Salvage group, it was more a hurry up and wait. They did not like one of my bills of sales, since the transmission was listed as a TKX Model... and did not specifically say Transmission. I added verbiage, waited and finally received an appointment for the stolen parts, structural integrity, add VIN # label process/inspection in downtown Rochester. Both Albany person and Rochester inspector are Very busy with repair shops trying to put flood cars and hail damage cars back on the road. One repair shop alone was taking up 30% of the 26 or so appointments on the day I was there! Inspector/cop was pleasant but a bit annoyed that he could not get the low cobra on his 4 post and close the door. 90 minutes in a hot waiting area(not allowed to watch them) and I had a VIN #. On to local inspection then to DMV for registration. DMV required manager to get involved as not a common process but went fine. They did require me to pay tax on the kit but only the difference in MA vs NY tax rate since I paid $2K in tax when I picked up kit at FFR. I did purchase a nice tilt bed trailer for the cobra and have used it several times during build since no temp tags allowed on a kit car. Others have used trailer too and I will use for my tractor, lawn mower and golf cart in future. PM me if you want to hear more on the NY process.

Today September 11th 2025 I completed driving the first 1,000 miles on the MK4.
Issues:
1) Power steering leak at the rack. I over tightened the 0-ring seal.
2) Two header bolts came loose. Std small head 6 point. Added teflon tape as recommended on one forum and re-tightened all. No problem for the remaining 900 miles.
3) Main long alternator bolt came out after many miles. Turns out I probably had loose while adjusting V-belt and forgot to tighten. Lucky the adjustment bolt was tight and no damage done other than pride. Bolt made some noise dropping thru engine compartment but no damage and I found it on the road.
4) Raised ride height after muffler hitting on several occasions. Frame raised from 4.25" to 4.75" which now gives about 3.75" under muffler. This winter I think I can raise muffler 1/2" with some minor exhaust changes.
5) Seat comfort was only so-so on longer drives. Added some 3/4" foam under butt in my Kirkey racing seats. This foam is under factory cover so not seen and helps quite a bit. I am now quite comfortable on 1.5 hr drives with my 6'3" 215 lb frame.
6) Added the Breeze LED headlights since the factory ones are .......especially compared to my other modern cars.
7) Added mud flaps after several rural (fun) roads in the area were oil and stoned. I know they are not the best look but better than paint chips and easily removed if needed.
8) American and English flags off the roller bars. I am now on Gen 3 and they have held up for 800 miles. Two flags with a stiff fabric scrim in between have held up very well. Sew all around perimeter catching all three layers.
9) The power steering was too strong so I did the, cut the spring, trick to lower the pressure. The std old Ford pump now drives the steering well.

Enjoyment driving is off the charts and I try to use as my daily driver when not raining. Currently the engine is an old tied 302 from a 79 T-bird but a new BP347 is on the way for a winter swap. Engine is peppy in the 2,500 to 3,500 rpm range but runs out of breath at much over 4,000. The 347 will wake the car up.

Dislikes:
1) Std E-brake on the passenger side. This is not accessible with the 5 point belts on. Real pain when starting the car on an incline like at a gas station. Also a safety concern. Will change this winter.
2) Gear ratio seems too low, too many RPMs in First. Once in 5 gear all good at about 2,000 RPMs for 60 MPH. Std 3.55 IRS Diff, 315/17 tires and 5 speed TKX. I find myself starting in 2nd unless at a dead stop. Maybe it will be better with the higher reving 347 and probably good with a 7,000 RPM Coyote but not the old stock 302. Will see after new engine before changing diff.
3) 5-point seat belts. Like the feel and look when hooked up but what a pain as a daily driver. May switch out to click connect or single point.
4) Foot boxes are tight for my size 12 AND my wife does not like the narrow Pas side which tips to the right. Both will be enlarged this winter with engie out. With my 347 and exhaust layout both sides can be increased.

I have a plan for the engine change this winter but I does not want to post right now..

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterman

... Gear ratio seems too low, too many RPMs in First. Once in 5 gear all good at about 2,000 RPMs for 60 MPH. Std 3.55 IRS Diff, 315/17 tires and 5 speed TKX. I find myself starting in 2nd unless at a dead stop...

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Which version of the TKX? The 2.87:1 first gear or the 3.27:1 first? If it's the 3.27 then yes, when used with a 3.55 rear it'll be pretty short with a 11.6 overall reduction.

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterman

3) 5-point seat belts. Like the feel and look when hooked up but what a pain as a daily driver. May switch out to click connect or single point.

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My wife really hated the latch belts and I wasn't much of a fan TBH. Finally switched them out to cam locks and now every time we go for a drive she comments how much better the cam locks are. trust me, do this upgrade.

Jeff, tranny is the TCET17765 with the 1st – 2.87 and 5th – 0.68 so should be ok with better engine. I used to have a 69 vette with the close ratio box so it had a tall 1st. I kind of like a taller 1st for a daily driver so lower diff ratio maybe in my future. I used to skip 2nd unless getting on it. Tks
Mike, yes cam lock belts sound like the way to go especially when I change e-stop to top of tunnel. I like a manual brake, have a welder and my current setup with a pulley works well, if you can reach it.

I was not able to post the winter plan spreadsheet but here is the summary. Much to do. I purchased the Base Dressed 347 with sniper so I will be adding my own front end components. Main concern was I wanted a 3 wire alternator not a race 1- wire and BP would not substitute. I know all the alternator plus/minus so no need to debate on this thread.

Add New front end components from CVF.
Modify Power steering pump pressure
Revise wiring for 3G alternator from existing 1G
Revise wiring for distributor/coil, move coil to Drv footbox
Add 90Deg thermostat fitting/outlet
Powder coat new Alum finned valve covers to match blue
Remove old 302 & transmission
Check/concentric Bellhousing, dial indicator
New Spark plugs, route wires around valve covers, not over.
Install new 347 & w/ existing transmission
Reuse Mini starter, flywheel, clutch
ChokeFFR to Pink, Tach to grey 1/4” spade dist. & coil positive
Splice into orange fuse box, Sniper blue -per FFR manual
Fan LT Blue(sniper) to green fan, remove RF temp sensor, replace w/ sniper
Dedicated battery wires already run, coiled under dash
New Ground, Battery to Engine, 4AWG
In tank 190LPH Pump from Breeze
Regulator - mount low on pas footbox
Remove old hard fuel line, use new 3/8" flex lines
Footbox, Driver side - expand close to throttle above frame about 1.5"
Footbox, Pass side - move entire wall towards inside about 2” to frame
Exhaust, Remove flex adaptors, raise 1/2”
Remake Lower Dash for Sniper Display
Move E-brake to top of tunnel. Make new bracket.
Trunk brackets -Shorten offset about 1/2” for less exposure into trunk. Will allow folding chairs to fit easier.
Cheers

I love my TCET17765 with my 427. Jeff steered me that direction, and it's great.

Greg

I had the TKO version of the 18084 before. I was driving highway more than I thought I would and was screaming at roughly 3000-3500K RPM at 70-75mph. This is with 3.55 gears. I swapped it around to the 17765 with the .68 overdrive this time. Haven't been out on the highway yet but should make for a better driving experience. You should be good to go!

Exhaust - I have under car exhaust which I love sound of, plus other advantages but one negative, ground clearance. The flexible connector I was using was limiting factor and dictated main pipe location as it was directly below the foot box, the lowest point other than main 4" tubes. Removed flex piece and raised 2.25"OD pipes to the footbox with some thin fiberglass wrap so no metal to metal contact. Reshaped my custom hangers so muffler and tailpipe are all as high as possible. Now all is almost 3/4" higher than it was. See pic with a 3/4" green board up against the 4" tubes. Exhaust is about 3/4" below tubes so about 4" ground clearance with ride height at 4.75". I was just hitting the one speed hump in the area before, so now ok.
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Trunk Space for a folding chair - So I have had sun damage on my forehead so want to use a folding chair with a canopy but it does not really fit. I researched the smallest one but the trunk HINGE is the limiting factor. The current hinge design encroaches into the trunk a lot and it ends up pressing down hard on the chair. So much pressure that the trunk lid does not sit down well on the upper edge. I a little cutting and welding and now OK. I removed 5/8" from hinge vertical section(when closed) which still allows hinge to fully open. See picture with one modified(pas) and one not. My weld does not show unless you really look. Did a couple fillet welds vs butt weld so I could change back if I ever need to. Much more planned little fixes for the winter.(along with new BP347 engine)
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Enjoy the ride.

In November it was out with the used original 1979 T-bird 302. I put 1,300 miles on the Cobra this summer with this first temp. engine, used to make easier to register in NY with no emission controls needed. One issue with removal and one suggestion. I suspended engine from chains attached to both ends of the heads but that created a problem with the body ON. The rear chains hit the body hard as I raised engine. Ended up using a ratchet strap around water pump to pull chains forward. Decided to keep the driveshaft inserted in TKX while removing to see if it could be in place during engine install in future. It can, but is tight to get by the 4" cross tube. Slow moments and all worked. It helped using a chain fall as small movements are easier than the 2T engine hoist that did not have enough reach with body on. As many know the driveshaft is very difficult to install after engine/tranny installed on a SBF/TKX/IRS.
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In early December it was time to install the new Blueprint 347 with Holley Sniper2. To convert from Carb to EFI I have previously changed out the in-tank pump and converted to all 6AN braided fuel line from Breeze. Added some dedicated battery wiring for the sniper and used the sniper wiring to power the pump. i purchased the Base dressed engine so it was Dyno'ed but missing all the front end accessories, plugs and wires. The reasons not to get the Fully dressed engine was two fold, looks and alternator. I wanted more the vintage look with a V-belt and wanted a 3G alternator not a 1-wire. So I sourced parts from CVF and Summit. Switched out the generic BP valve covers for Cobra covers powder coated in my car color. Ended up using a CVF Serpentine Conversion Kit which is a hybrid so less complex than as true serp. but using a ribbed belt vs V-belt. I suspended engine using the Kleiner idea of a spacer off the header bolts at the back so there was no body interference with a simple strap around the water pump, since back takes all the weight. This way the engine was basically complete except for the crank pulley removed for extra clearance. As with others the std BP oil pan is 8" deep so I raised engine with some washers under the motor mounts. This oil pan has a pocket/well at the drain plug which was slightly below the 4" frame rails so I have cut a 3" round hole in the Towbar skid plate at the well. Oil can be drained, pan is now protected and in my case the low point is the under car exhaust anyway. I reused the starter, clutch/tranny and exhaust(added O2 bung) from the old setup. Engine started right up on second turn of the key.
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Hand brake - I moved the existing FFR brake to the top of tunnel. Actually it was VERY easy and I recommend to all MK4 users. No new parts except a Lokar cable union block to grab the shortened cables. Mount the brake L-brackets to the underside of the tunnel tubes with a clearance hole in the top of tube for allen head bolt to the brackets. Existing FFR cable guides line right up so a straight shot to the E-brake clevis. E-brake works great with good leverage and useable with harness on.
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Brake Switch - While I had the footbox open I fixed a minor issue with brake switch location. It is so close to the pivot point that it is difficult to adjust so brake light comes on before brakes actually grab hard. I like to be able to warn tailgaters that I am about to slow down. Made a new L-bracket and mounted switch lower.
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Driver Footbox expansion - I was able to place a 2x4 between foot box and my shortie headers so made a new inner wall to the foot box while engine was out. It yields Two improvements. I did gain 1/2" more clearance for toe, more down lower BUT also now have a larger access for any brake/wiring issues.
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterman

In early December it was time to install the new Blueprint 347 with Holley Sniper2. To convert from Carb to EFI I have previously changed out the in-tank pump and converted to all 6AN braided fuel line from Breeze. Added some dedicated battery wiring for the sniper and used the sniper wiring to power the pump. i purchased the Base dressed engine so it was Dyno'ed but missing all the front end accessories, plugs and wires. The reasons not to get the Fully dressed engine was two fold, looks and alternator. I wanted more the vintage look with a V-belt and wanted a 3G alternator not a 1-wire. So I sourced parts from CVF and Summit. Switched out the generic BP valve covers for Cobra covers powder coated in my car color. Ended up using a CVF Serpentine Conversion Kit which is a hybrid so less complex than as true serp. but using a ribbed belt vs V-belt. I suspended engine using the Kleiner idea of a spacer off the header bolts at the back so there was no body interference with a simple strap around the water pump, since back takes all the weight. This way the engine was basically complete except for the crank pulley removed for extra clearance. As with others the std BP oil pan is 8" deep so I raised engine with some washers under the motor mounts. This oil pan has a pocket/well at the drain plug which was slightly below the 4" frame rails so I have cut a 3" round hole in the Towbar skid plate at the well. Oil can be drained, pan is now protected and in my case the low point is the under car exhaust anyway. I reused the starter, clutch/tranny and exhaust(added O2 bung) from the old setup. Engine started right up on second turn of the key.
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I was there! Started right up and sounded sweet!

Congrats on the new engine. Bet you're anxious to get it out on the road. With all this cold and snow they are putting down a lot of salt. Maybe we'll get a warm stretch and rain to wash it away.

Pat

Hi Waterman,
Congrats on the new engine. I bet it really wakes things up! I was just curious how you addressed the driveshaft "reinstall". As you alluded to before, the initial install can be challenging. Were you able leave it in and just rotate the drive shaft until you could reach each flange bolt?
I know I'll have to replace the clutch in my ride (302/TKX/IRS) sooner or later, and it gives me a little heartburn thinking about it...
Happy New Year!
Jason

Jason, I DID leave the driveshaft installed. I simply wire tied it loose so it would not slide out. I did drain the tranny but maybe did not need to. Install was tight but a strap around the tranny rear and I was able to manually pull driveshaft over the rear 4" tube. My friend was easing the engine lower as I was doing the guide. It was easier using a chain fall since we could lower engine very slowly. Only way a 2T engine hoist would have worked was to come in from side and then you have front wheel and jacks in the way. For us the chain fall was easier. Another option is to install the driveshaft when the engine is 90% installed. So just before the mounts are engaged, so the engine is still a bit further forward. Yes, with tranny in neutral it was easy to line up the flange bolts on IRS.

As I mentioned earlier I did expand the foot box a little by making a new inner wall. I am 6'3" ans shrinking with size 12 shoes. Until now I had to use thin slip on boat shoes and had to angle my right foot 30 to 40 degrees while driving. Moving wall allows me to use any shoe I want. I also cut down the clutch pedal so that I could move it over one hole and have more room to reach the dead pedal. I have pics of my largest winter shoes in place to show that even those will work. Pedals are as std from FFR with the MK4.
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We did a nice father daughter project after getting No Quoted on a tonneau cover from a Cobra Vendor. Turns out our high back seats are tough to cover and my daughter agrees. Before you ask No we will not be selling these but others may like some of the ideas. My daughter has a heavy duty sewing machine, makes her own dresses and I would say fairly skilled. Since we were making our own I wanted it done MY way. I have owned several MGBs and Triumphs with tonneaus so know what I wanted. Wish list was - 95% rain protection, stores in trunk, no clips on door, minimal clips, will protect/hide my golf clubs while at supper with the boys, passenger side can be left on while driving and full cover can be on while open trailering. So far with limited miles with 1/2 on it does seem to met all the objectives. Note it is attached with 6 of the 1/4 turn fasteners(no buttons) and 4 tie downs under body. There are 3 driveway marker fiberglass rods for stiffness(water shedding). Center zipper is the type that fully separates.
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Looks great Ant. Nice work by both of you.

Pat

Chevy Riptide Blue, WA121J,GJV with a Shadow Gray Strip, WA238M,90U.
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Years ago I had a Triumph TR6 with a luggage rack and I thought it looked great. I seldom used it as the trunk size was decent. The MK4 trunk, not so much. Even going to car shows I find it difficult to fit in larger folding chairs etc. Plus this year I plan some overnight trips. So for both function and that old school look I researched luggage racks. I came across a well made, old school one on Ebay.----Used luggage rack for the MG Midgets, Austin Healey Sprites and other cars for that era. Mounting holes are 14 & 1/2" ctc vertical and 23 & 3/4" ctc horizontal. Measures approx. 25" by 18" by 7".----- What I liked is that the 4 bolts would mount thru the ribs of the trunk lid and it was proportionally about the right size. My debate was what to do with the finish. The chrome was in very good shape EXCEPT in 2 welds. I discounted Re-chroming and tried Naval Jelly after some minor sanding. Added a little silver paint, --no did not look good. This rack is right there in your face on top of the trunk. I talked to my local powder coater and we had two options. There is a chrome like powder coat but it just is not as bright as chrome. Or Black. Then came the color match idea. My roll bars, louvers and strips are the same(close) Gray as the wheels. The Gray luggage rack came out great and inexpensive. I am $200 all in. Issues, measure 3x or more and maybe I should have bent/modified the mounting tabs to fit the trunk contour better. I put down wide blue tape, measured inside and out to get square, mount flat and land on the ribs. Well I was close. One hole is off about 1/8" but washers cover the slight oversize holes to compensate. The trunk is not flat so mounting tabs do not sit flat on trunk but are close. I tried using some thick oversize rubber washers to absorb the angle diff but decided to put a gray SS washer under the tabs, as not to dig into rubber. So not perfect but Done for now and looks real good as part of overall car.
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I added the lower dash panel originally but it was a time for an upgrade. Since the original build I have changed engine from a Carb 302 to a EFI 347.(what a difference). The Sniper2 EFI comes with a small 3.5" display that can be left connected while driving. So being a Techie I wanted it available for viewing in garage, at stop lights or by passenger. After much searching I decided to use this tilting under dash display holder.(readily available on Amazon). I cut a slot in the lower section OFFSET from cable so that display can be removed easily for closer viewing but stays put while driving. Offset slot holds display in mount but Tilt cable and display lifts out. Behind the display are USB and 12v ports. Just tilt mount up and they are accessible. I added an additional 12v cig lighter port on side of lower panel so that I can leave my Dash Cam plugged in full time..
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You'll love having that display while driving. I have one for my EFI in a similar spot and probably look at it more than the gauges.

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