Printable View
Today I spent all day trying to install the heavy 8.8 differential housing. We tried every possible angle and it would not clear the frame tubes or suspension mount tabs . I finally ended up removing the Aluminum rear cover and got it up in position. Next problem is now to 2 rear mount bolts don’t line up with the holes in the housing. I can get three out of 4 in but not the last one . Need help ?
It will go in without taking anything apart. It's tight, but lots of us have done it. I've done two. Takes a sharp angle to start. Then angling into position. Too late, but some pics. I did it myself with ropes. Easier with a helper or two.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...370&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...370&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...370&fit=bounds
As far as the mounting bolts, thread the rear two in first. Without the front bolts. Since they're threaded into the housing, the alignment has to be just right and I've not had trouble getting them in. Leave them loose at first. Then go to the front bolts where there are bushings and sleeves with a certain amount of flexibility. If you're unable to get them to line up, I found a tapered rod gets it done. Made my own. I'm assuming you drilled out the front ears on the diff per the instructions.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...370&fit=bounds
Yes! Exactly as Paul described. I did it by myself with a bunch of ratchet straps and slowly pulled it into place, then used bolts I ground into tapered points like Paul shows to center the front end.
Man I haven’t even been on the forum that long and I feel like I’ve seen this question posted at least a couple times a month. Isn’t there a way to make this a sticky at the top?
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Thank for your reply Edward, so the chassis in your photos looks just like the ones in the manual. Mine on the other hand doesn’t have that round frame tube like yours ? If I knew how to post a photo I would . So my problem currently is the rear bushing tubes are spaced a good 3/16” wider than the threaded holes in the housing. Are your photos of a new gen 2 hot rod ?
Marty
The photos are from my 20th Anniversary Roadster build. That's a few years ago. But I'm not personally aware of Roadster chassis changes since then. My other IRS build was a Gen 3 Coupe, which does have a very different chassis design than the Roadster. But the IRS mountings for everything was the same. As for the rear bolt alignment, make sure they're the first two you put in. Before either of the two front bolts. If the spacing isn't exact, no reason you couldn't slightly enlarge the holes. Splitting the difference between the two sides. The center section is tightly captured with large flange head bolts. It's not going anywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1martysr
edwardb's photos are of a roadster chassis, not a '33 Hot Rod. Totally different chassis however the IRS center mounts to the chassis using the same points.
Jeff
Oops. I totally missed that this was a Hot Rod. My bad. I haven't done a Hot Rod. Only the 35 Truck and it's only available as 3-link. I looked at the Hot Rod pictures on the Factory Five website. Not a lot visible with an IRS setup. Although I did see it at the Open House several years ago. I can't imagine that FF would have required you to dissemble the center section to get it into place. I would also guess that it goes in nose high like the pictures I posted for the Roadster and also experienced with the Coupe. But I can't say for sure. Even though a moot point now. The other comments I made regarding the bolt sequence and how to get them installed I believe would still be applicable. Hopefully I didn't cause too much confusion. Good luck.
Edwardb your tips and tricks work very very well . We put the two rear bolts first like you suggested and then the 2 front bolts slide right it .Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Grateful,
Marty