302 decision...Carb "classic" 302 vs Coyote

I'm sure that this discussion has been beaten to death already, but in planning my build, this is the 2nd toughest decision I have. This car is going to be my "4 wheeled motorcycle", taking it on weekend cruises, a little highway cruising into the Smoky Mountains or the occasional rip to the office in fair weather. Ive been battling the decision from a cost and complexity standpoint of going with a crate 302 (like a Fortes build), or a Coyote. Assuming a carb'd 302 (or even EFI'd) would be a serious cost savings compared to a Coyote, especially now with the Gen4s coming out. Some questions for those way more experienced than I am...

• From a performance standpoint, I know the HP/Torque difference would be significant, but in terms of being "streetable", would there be a realistic difference (besides
• From a build complexity & wiring standpoint, how much more complex is the Coyote than a crate motor for a relative novice?

What other factors am I completely missing here? Any and all advice is welcomed.

Can't address the wiring, but the Coyote is hands down winner in the performance and drivability department

When I built my car in 2015, the Coyote was the new kid on the block. I didn't want to be a pathfinder, so I chose the 302 with Holley Terminator fuel injection (sourced from Forte).

Now, the Coyote path has been cleared, marked, & paved; I would estimate it's no more difficult to install than the 302. Look up the build threads from edwardb and wareaglescott. Those two were the pathfinders, and did a fantastic job documenting how to install the Coyote. Based on my reading, they're about the same level of effort - just "different."

From a drivability standpoint, you can tame your beast however you want. I used Forte's mechanical linkage with my 302, and by moving the throttle linkage down the lever arms towards the pivot rod I eliminated all the twitchiness in the throttle response. The Coyote is drive-by-wire, so you'll have to do something different, but I haven't read of any complaints that the Coyote was too responsive to drive.

Both the 302 and the Coyote are going to require a tune. With the Coyote, you'll swap tuning files with a professional tuner (given your description of your level of experience, you're not going to tune the Coyote yourself).

With a carbureted 302, you'll either take it to a professional or take a few months learning how to tune it yourself. With EFI on your 302, you'll either swap tuning files with a professional tuner, or take a few months learning how to tune it yourself. Both fuel delivery systems require time & effort to learn how to tune. The only difference I see between the carburetor & EFI is the effort required to make a change; carburetor changes require some disassembly, swapping a component or two, & then reassembly, whereas EFI changes are done on a laptop. The sensors & data collection required to tune a carburetor are temporary in that you'll probably remove them once you're happy. The sensors & data collection required to tune your EFI are integrated into the EFI system. Personally, I REALLY LIKE having integrated data collection on the car; if something doesn't seem "right" I can drive a known route I've done 1000 times & got good data from, and then compare data logs to known data & get an idea where to start troubleshooting.

Bottom line is it's hard to go wrong with either choice.


John

P.S. If I were to build today, I'd go Coyote. But that may just be the grass looking greener from over the fence. ;)

FWIW, the 302 (or a 347) is period correct, fits nicely, and can be easily dressed up to look very nice. Carbs are ancient technology and don't play nicely with today's ethanol blended gas. The reason is gasoline will evaporate at the temperatures most of us like to cruise in, and that means the gasoline disappears and leaves the residue of the ethanol behind. It clogs the multitude of precision passages that make a carburetor function. Most carb tuning and advice is rooted in pre-ethanol times, so even using jetting and setup advice can be tough, as ethanol fuel behaves differently compared to “pure” gasoline. It's why you buy ethanol-free gas at Home Depot for your lawn mower. From first hand experience for reliability and drivability EFI is light years ahead.

The Coyote is amazing technology and if you order from Forte he supplies a free shoehorn to assist in installing it. I just removed the headers from my 351W to have them ceramic coated, I cannot even imagine doing that job with a Coyote as tight as it is.

I put a Sniper 306 in my first build. It was fine, but then again it was only fine. I am building my second soon and I am going with a Coyote. It's more expensive and currently harder to find (Gen 4x is now available but there will be learning) so you have to go rebuild or used. I have chosen the latter. I may tear it down and build it but I may not either.

With all that said I wanted a Coyoted 10 minutes after I got my 306 on the road.

There's been lots of good discussion on the topic of coyote vs. pushrod V8 on the forum, so there's plenty for you to read and digest and agonize over. ;) I agree that this is one of the two toughest decisions to make (paint color being the other). After having installed a gen2 coyote in my roadster, here are a few random thoughts:

Wiring - yes, there's more wiring with a coyote, but it's not terribly difficult or complicated. IMO, there were other aspects of the dash wiring that were more "tricky". If you can wire up the rest of the dash, you can wire the coyote.

Looks - this is very subjective, but a pushrod V8 is going to win in the looks department, IMO. Especially the newer gen3 and gen4 coyotes that don't have a nice engine cover like the gen1 and gen2's did. I've seen some nicely dressed gen3's (see Edwardb's coupe, for example) that look very nice. but the coyotes are inherently a giant bundle of hoses and plastic covers.

Drivability - coyote wins hands down.

Sound - a coyote does not sound like a pushrod V8. It sounds like a modern Mustang. That's neither good nor bad, just what it is, if that matters to you. Some tuners have a "ghost cam tune" that tries to recreate a cam lope on the coyote. Not sure what I think about that.

The other thing to consider at this point is that all the gen3's are gone and the gen4's are not out yet. There's no telling what new and unique challenges the gen4 will present, or aftermarket parts that are needed that won't be released for a while. For example, look at Edwardb's coupe build. He was one of the earliest gen3 adopters and had to fabricate his own oil pan pickup tube. If you're a trailblazer and a good fabricator, it may not be a problem. Otherwise, you might be sitting around waiting for a while for the aftermarket to catch up on the gen4.

I'm sure others will chime in with other thoughts. Good luck!

-John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

The Coyote is amazing technology and if you order from Forte he supplies a free shoehorn to assist in installing it. I just removed the headers from my 351W to have them ceramic coated, I cannot even imagine doing that job with a Coyote as tight as it is.

---

I did it. On a lift it wasn't as bad as I feared. Not fun, but doable.

4 wheeled motorcycle.... Exactly what I call mine.

I prefer the look of a small block but I have seen some Coyote engines dressed up very well. I have a carbed small block 427w (stoked 351) and love it. If you go carbed, I would suggest a manual choke and always good to add a vacuum gauge for tuning (and under the hood). If you go with EFI, you'll probably have less issues in tuning. Our great Sacramento Factory Five group has a mix of everything under the hood. See if you can find a local group and just ask around.

Ted

I wrestled with the same question when I embarked on my build. I talked to a lot of people (as you are doing, too) and settled on the coyote. This was 2015-2016, and as noted above, it was all new. Not so much now.

My takeaways:
1. You get in the car, start it up and go. This is a production engine with new technology and it just runs. Very streetable, yet can get crazy if you so choose.
2. Yes, it will need a tune, but you will be very happy when you do it. I ran my Gen II without a tune for a year or so and it was rough at low rpm. Now it is smooth as silk.
3. I had never worked on an EFI engine, so I was the ultimate newbie. I got it done. So can you! The wiring is not all that difficult, there are only a few key integration points between the RF harness and the control pack harness. The instructions, and better yet, this Forum, will get you through it.
4. Were I to do this again, I would install full length headers rather than shorty headers and J-pipes. The J-pipes are the weak link. You also get less resistance and more power with the full length headers. It just means you have to install the headers while the engine is in the air, part way installed. I used stage 8 locking header bolts and highly recommend them. You cannot get at the rear cylinder header connectors once the engine is in. The stage 8 bolts ensure you won't have to.
5. The instructions, at the time, called for a different cooling system with a small, vertical overflow tank. I chose the "factory" plumbing route and am glad I did. Plenty of threads on that topic.

Obviously, you can see what I recommend. You might save a little time installing a 302, and possibly some money, but I can tell you I'm really glad I went with the coyote.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

I put a Sniper 306 in my first build. It was fine, but then again it was only fine. I am building my second soon and I am going with a Coyote. It's more expensive and currently harder to find (Gen 4x is now available but there will be learning) so you have to go rebuild or used. I have chosen the latter. I may tear it down and build it but I may not either.

With all that said I wanted a Coyoted 10 minutes after I got my 306 on the road.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phileas_fogg

When I built my car in 2015, the Coyote was the new kid on the block. I didn't want to be a pathfinder, so I chose the 302 with Holley Terminator fuel injection (sourced from Forte).

Now, the Coyote path has been cleared, marked, & paved; I would estimate it's no more difficult to install than the 302. Look up the build threads from edwardb and wareaglescott. Those two were the pathfinders, and did a fantastic job documenting how to install the Coyote. Based on my reading, they're about the same level of effort - just "different."

From a drivability standpoint, you can tame your beast however you want. I used Forte's mechanical linkage with my 302, and by moving the throttle linkage down the lever arms towards the pivot rod I eliminated all the twitchiness in the throttle response. The Coyote is drive-by-wire, so you'll have to do something different, but I haven't read of any complaints that the Coyote was too responsive to drive.

Both the 302 and the Coyote are going to require a tune. With the Coyote, you'll swap tuning files with a professional tuner (given your description of your level of experience, you're not going to tune the Coyote yourself).

With a carbureted 302, you'll either take it to a professional or take a few months learning how to tune it yourself. With EFI on your 302, you'll either swap tuning files with a professional tuner, or take a few months learning how to tune it yourself. Both fuel delivery systems require time & effort to learn how to tune. The only difference I see between the carburetor & EFI is the effort required to make a change; carburetor changes require some disassembly, swapping a component or two, & then reassembly, whereas EFI changes are done on a laptop. The sensors & data collection required to tune a carburetor are temporary in that you'll probably remove them once you're happy. The sensors & data collection required to tune your EFI are integrated into the EFI system. Personally, I REALLY LIKE having integrated data collection on the car; if something doesn't seem "right" I can drive a known route I've done 1000 times & got good data from, and then compare data logs to known data & get an idea where to start troubleshooting.

Bottom line is it's hard to go wrong with either choice.


John

P.S. If I were to build today, I'd go Coyote. But that may just be the grass looking greener from over the fence. ;)

---

John / Blitz - thats part of my concern, FOMO from going pushrod vs Coyote!

The FOMO goes both ways. When I'm driving the car, I'm 100% convinced that the coyote was the right choice but there are still times I wish I'd gone with a 427 with Borla 8-stacks and 15's with Goodyear billboards. I guess I need to build another car so I can have one of each. :p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

I put a Sniper 306 in my first build. It was fine, but then again it was only fine. I am building my second soon and I am going with a Coyote. It's more expensive and currently harder to find (Gen 4x is now available but there will be learning) so you have to go rebuild or used. I have chosen the latter. I may tear it down and build it but I may not either.

With all that said I wanted a Coyoted 10 minutes after I got my 306 on the road.

---

The salvage Coyote does pose an interesting alternative. I know it will require a new transmission and a control pack. I'll have to research all of what needs to go into the conversion to make it work to see if it really is a viable option for me and my caveman set of skills :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JohnK

The FOMO goes both ways. When I'm driving the car, I'm 100% convinced that the coyote was the right choice but there are still times I wish I'd gone with a 427 with Borla 8-stacks and 15's with Goodyear billboards. I guess I need to build another car so I can have one of each. :p

---

If you build two, I guess Ill just have to fly out to Cali and drive the other one so you have something good to look at while you drive haha

When I set out to build my 2nd FFR, I was positive I was going to go with a Gen3 Coyote Crate engine. Ordered my kit in July of 2023, and planned to purchase a Gen3 crate sometime in 2025. What I didn't anticipate was that Ford would stop making them. I had ordered my Complete Kit with all the Coyote bits. I pivoted, and decided to build a 427W, using an aftermarket EFI system. FFR swapped my motor mounts, headers and driveshaft, and I sold the rest of the Coyote bits on this forum. I talked to Blueprint Engines about sourcing a 427W, and they told me in March of this year that it would be September at the earliest, if I ordered in March. I didn't have all my pennies saved up to buy a $25k drivetrain from BPE, and I knew it would take me some time to save that, THEN have to wait another 6 months after that to get my engine. So, I decided to build my own engine. I was happy to see Summit Racing sells curated packages of drivetrain bits specifically designed for the MkIV. I ordered their complete 427 Boss shortblock package, their top end package, and their oil system package, and bolted it all together myself. Ford small blocks are super easy to put together, and it's been a lot of fun. In the end, I'll have my drivetrain ready for drop-in long before I would've received a BPE, because I built it myself, and didn't have to pay for it all at once. Oh, and I saved around $5000 on the whole package, too.

So, I guess I'm saying I'm sort of glad Ford stopped selling the Gen3, because it steered me back to good ole fashioned pushrod power. Smaller package than the Coyote (easier to wrench on in the engine bay), around 100HP more, and (my opinion) a better sounding-package. Also, I didn't want to wait for the Gen4 crates to come out, for FFR to engineer any parts that may need to accompany it, etc.

Glad I went this direction.

Greg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JohnK

I did it. On a lift it wasn't as bad as I feared. Not fun, but doable.

---

Only thing preventing me from this approach is low ceiling height and no lift:)

They're out there. I just rebuilt one for a really great number vs. a new crate for my Coupe build. My MK4 has a crate gen 2 and after 12K miles have not looked back once. It's fairly easy. Some minor wiring but really just plug it in and go.

AL! You still can swap out headers bud!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nuhale

AL! You still can swap out headers bud!

---

Let's talk about that at the end of the season. We'll need a lift to do it, but I'll accept your help with the swap!

Was a pioneer. Coyote powered roadster built over 2014. Street legal Feb 2015. Engine & transmission,TKO-600, package was bought from Summit Racing. FORD Racing was available to provide support. Was a pretty easy install even with having to shape the driver side inside footbox sheet metal. FFR now provides these pieces with the kit.

Wiring was pretty simple to marry to the RF harness with the provided instructions. Once tuned engine has yet to be touched except for fluid, filter maintenance & some lite modifications. Have done a lot of interesting engines over the years but found the Coyote to be an amazing unit. Just turn the key drive.

Some people don't care for the modern look but I don't really have to open the hood that much.:)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1721414949

Its a tight fit but still drops right in with the transmission attached. Weighs about 444lbs

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazin...8f962b6199.jpg

Coyote 302 & Carb 302

Very interesting find...has anyone seen "Swap The Universe" (MARS Auto Parts)? Any experiences I should know about their Turnkey Engine Pallets?

A healthy 302/347 and a Coyote are 300 - 400 hp, so both are in the sweet spot for performance in these cars.
If it's important to you, what's it sound and look like?? The coyote is milder at idle and sounds very different at WOT.
Personally, when I open the hood, I want to see something more traditional and a SBF 427 with an EFI Stack injection is my dream.
I just had my 302 rebuilt to a healthy 347 with a Sniper EFI (more traditional carb look) and I'm excitied to get it on the street, but a Stacked 427 would be my next build! (also suggest installing a mechanical linkage vs a cable throttle and a Russ Thompson pedal (may be a Breeze pedal now(?)

Good Luch on your build!

This is my thoughts as I went 302 Carbed. It is only 255 HP. The car is plenty spunky but streetable. I do not have the carb issues others have mentioned but that is because I took the tedious time to tune it. Lot's of turning the car off let the carb/engine cool and make your adjustment etc. Usually a multiday affair to get it right. But once it is no issues. I went this route mainly due to cost. It was about $10k cheaper then a coyote.

That being said if you have the funds for the coyote do it. They are sucha great engine as it can go from fire breathing monster back to a purring kitten. But once again depends on how you drive it and tune it.

Can't add a lot to what's already been said. Some random comments though: A Gen 3 Coyote with long tube headers and a custom tune is approaching 500HP. More than you'll get out of a 302 or even most 347's. So on that basis not exactly a fair comparison. HP = $$. I've had a 306, 347, and two Coyotes (Gen 2 and Gen 3). Both SBF's were carbed, but professionally tuned with a wideband O2 meter. So about as good as they can get. The drivability difference between the two (Coyote and SBF) is pretty significant in my experience. The Coyote starts up the torque curve at low RPM, so is easier to launch and is happy to putt around town short shifting at low RPM's if that's what you want. In other words, very friendly and easy. For some that's important. Of course, get into it and it gets crazy in a hurry. Loves to rev. Other than space issues (tight in a Roadster, easier in a Coupe) there's little/no installation difference between a Coyote and an engine with aftermarket EFI. They have similar components and wiring. I disagree that a Coyote in these builds sounds like a Mustang. With long tube headers and side pipes, no. Different than a pushrod engine. I agree with that. But not shrieky like your average Mustang. Especially when they put aftermarket exhaust systems on them. I don't like that sound at all. Everyone complements the sound of my Coyote powered Coupe. Doesn't lope at idle. But after having that for years in other cars, I'm over it. Gen 3's are no longer in production (stopped a couple years ago) and new are basically non-existent. Salvage is a solid option. The Gen 4 crate should be available this summer. Like every generation, might be some teething issues. But they all eventually get resolved. I wouldn't hesitate to plan a build around one. BTW, anyone seen the new Gen 4 cover? It's not bad... There are also adapters available to put it on a Gen 3. Looks decent. I get that many want the vintage look. As we say, it's your build. Do what you've always dreamed of doing. I take my cars to a lot of events (literally something every day of the week during the warm months here in SE Michigan) and I can tell you I've never gotten a negative comment regarding a modern engine in a vintage build. Most in fact like it a lot.

Yes, I'm a Coyote fan if it isn't obvious. :p

Nothing to add that hasn't been said above except that I too love my coyote.

Also, I assume you've seen this where Dave and the guys discuss engine options? https://www.youtube.com/live/fpjwKZE..._idx4S1444NC3k

There is nothing wrong with any SBF nor the beloved Coyote; however, if I were ever to build another Factory-5 it would likely sport a Big Inch LS.

https://blueprintengines.com/collect...am-psls4272ctf

I know is not popular, but pound for pound with insane power plus a minimal footprint simply makes for a strong argument.

Extending this thought, I feel obligated to suggest the LS3 as an option with the drivability of the Coyote and the size of a SBF. And the sound of a pushrod.

Remember, these aren't Fords, Shelbys, or Cobras... they're Factory Fives.

I'll let myself out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GoDadGo

There is nothing wrong with any SBF nor the beloved Coyote; however, if I were ever to build another Factory-5 it would likely sport a Big Inch LS.

https://blueprintengines.com/collect...am-psls4272ctf

I know is not popular, but pound for pound with insane power plus a minimal footprint simply makes for a strong argument.

---

I have three Holley carb'd SBF's two 351's stroked to 427, one 302 stroked to 331. In addition I have 2 427 FE's one with dual Holley 600 cfm and one with a 850 double pumper. Once the Holley's are set up they're pretty reliable and dont need a lot of care and feeding. I only use ethenol free premium. (I can get it at 3 gas stations within 10 miles) A bit of a hassle but worth the trouble free operation.
As we are building a replica of a 1965 car, to me it only seems right to put a period correct engine in it. (even if we put in digital gauges and widgets in it.) I've never been a fan of owning a classic car that I needed a laptop to maintain. I also have a 2018 Mustang GT with Roush Stage II Supercharger I installed putting out 765 HP and 750 FT LBS of Torque. I had to upgrade the exhaust and entire suspension system to handle the power. I also had to take it to a Ford dealer to have them connect to Roush via the internet so they could set the computer up. Definitely not a fan of that being a mechanic for 45 years. (aviation, not automotive)
All this being said, for pure power and trouble free dependable driving its the Mustang hands down. For the fun, the nastailga, because I LIKE getting dirt under my fingernails and building classic muscle, its the Holley carb'd pushrod oil leakers that are the most fun.
So what do you want, fun and nastailga and something you will always have to tinker with, or get in push a button and your in a rocket sled with your hair straight back calling for your mommy?
Either way, you'll have fun.
Happy Trails

I gotta say...... I just read this thread from start to finish. I am very IMPRESSED by the number of great, well-written, helpful and knowledgeable contributions. There is a wealth of expertise on this forum, contributed by people with no agenda except to be of help. It was a pleasure to read it thru...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ProfessorB

I gotta say...... I just read this thread from start to finish. I am very IMPRESSED by the number of great, well-written, helpful and knowledgeable contributions. There is a wealth of expertise on this forum, contributed by people with no agenda except to be of help. It was a pleasure to read it thru...

---

Agreed - I love this place already!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Was a pioneer. Coyote powered roadster built over 2014. Street legal Feb 2015. Engine & transmission,TKO-600, package was bought from Summit Racing. FORD Racing was available to provide support. Was a pretty easy install even with having to shape the driver side inside footbox sheet metal. FFR now provides these pieces with the kit.

Wiring was pretty simple to marry to the RF harness with the provided instructions. Once tuned engine has yet to be touched except for fluid, filter maintenance & some lite modifications. Have done a lot of interesting engines over the years but found the Coyote to be an amazing unit. Just turn the key drive.

Some people don't care for the modern look but I don't really have to open the hood that much.:)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1721414949

Its a tight fit but still drops right in with the transmission attached. Weighs about 444lbs

http://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazin...8f962b6199.jpg

Coyote 302 & Carb 302

---

I know 'size doesnt matter' but holy s#!t! Ive owned a Mustang with a Coyote in it, but that difference in footprint is staggering....

I will chime in, as "Not an Engine Guy". Went with the carb'ed SBF for fun and nostalgia, 427 just beamed "Cobra". I would love to be able to build one with a Coyote as well, but got to start some where, and cost was not really a measurable difference when I priced them out. I love tech, but also love old school stuff because that gets as much ???? as new tech. I even kept the parking brake handle even though I have electric parking brakes because it looks "old"

For me 347SBF and Holley HP EFI and it rumbles nice. I also have my '02 Mustang GT that I Coyote swapped with stock computer. It rumbles smooth like a street car. Both cars get up and go, but the sound and power of the Cobra is a night/day driver to the Mustang. Both get tracked and both are different. Best thing about the two engines, it's much easier to work on the SBF in a Cobra than a Coyote in a Cobra. I too also like the look for the time period. jmo

For myself I consider my Speedstar to be my "magnum opus" project and part of that was the building of the engine for it. Building a car engine was something I'd always wanted to do and something that I had unknowingly been building up to for years. So going with a SBF 302 was a no-brainer in terms of a platform that would be simple to build with relatively good availability/affordability and a wealth of past build experience out there to draw on.

Sounds kind of like an FFR kit don't you think?

Earl

For me, this question comes down to, what look and feel do you want? I wanted an old school look, so I'm going with the stroked 351W. It will have pent roofed valve covers to mimic the old FE. I don't mind fiddling with the carb and tweaking things as needed. The Coyote eliminates a lot of that. It definitely fills up the engine bay, but you'll have modern reliability. Just my .02

You can't go wrong either way...

I like the original look of the pushrod engines and have enough parts laying around from my days racing that I could put together at least a couple of small blocks. I enjoyed building my race cars more than I did actually driving them so messing with carburetors and doing the maintenance required is not an issue.

What hasn't been mentioned, at least not that I have read about in this thread, is these cars weight 2300 lbs and have a 90" wheelbase. A very mild 302 small block with 300 hp gives a power to weight ratio of 7.67 lbs/hp. That is more than enough to get in trouble, and I am not just talking about trouble with the law... I have been involved in crashes in drag racing and road racing in cars with full cages wearing the full safety gear including a HANS device. When things go sideways it happens FAST and there is no way I would want to be involved in a crash on a public roadway without all of the safety equipment. I drag raced in a heads up naturally aspirated class with a 3100 lb foxbody Mustang with a 605 horsepower 349 small block. That car would run high 9's/low 10's in the quarter mile carrying the front wheels past the 60ft clocks. The power to weight ratio for that car was 5.12 lbs/hp. A mild 351 stroker engine will easily eclipse 450 hp - that is 5.11 lbs/hp in a FFR roadster.

I know it sounds cool to say "I have 500 hp under the hood" but you have to ask "what am I going to do with it?" There is no way to safely use it on public roadways.

Anyway, just some food for thought...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by StangRacer

You can't go wrong either way...

I like the original look of the pushrod engines and have enough parts laying around from my days racing that I could put together at least a couple of small blocks. I enjoyed building my race cars more than I did actually driving them so messing with carburetors and doing the maintenance required is not an issue.

What hasn't been mentioned, at least not that I have read about in this thread, is these cars weight 2300 lbs and have a 90" wheelbase. A very mild 302 small block with 300 hp gives a power to weight ratio of 7.67 lbs/hp. That is more than enough to get in trouble, and I am not just talking about trouble with the law... I have been involved in crashes in drag racing and road racing in cars with full cages wearing the full safety gear including a HANS device. When things go sideways it happens FAST and there is no way I would want to be involved in a crash on a public roadway without all of the safety equipment. I drag raced in a heads up naturally aspirated class with a 3100 lb foxbody Mustang with a 605 horsepower 349 small block. That car would run high 9's/low 10's in the quarter mile carrying the front wheels past the 60ft clocks. The power to weight ratio for that car was 5.12 lbs/hp. A mild 351 stroker engine will easily eclipse 450 hp - that is 5.11 lbs/hp in a FFR roadster.

I know it sounds cool to say "I have 500 hp under the hood" but you have to ask "what am I going to do with it?" There is no way to safely use it on public roadways.

Anyway, just some food for thought...

---

This is my concern as well. I want to have fun, and maybe play around sideways in a parking lot once or twice, but the only thing Mario Andretti and I have in common is our family's country of origin. I'm thinking somewhere in the range of 350-400hp (the power/weight ratio of a GT500 or Viper) would be more than enough to enjoy while also not being an absolute menace or widow maker.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fauxbra5.0

I'm thinking somewhere in the range of 350-400hp (the power/weight ratio of a GT500 or Viper) would be more than enough to enjoy while also not being an absolute menace or widow maker.

---

• You should be very happy making 350-400 HP with similar torque figures.
• I'm making 465 HP @ 6000 and 465 Torque @5200 at the flywheel.
• The car is a dream to drive as long as you press into the throttle.
• On Nitto 555's it was a tire burner but on Nitto NT05's it is great.
• With 3.73 gears the car has run 11:30 @ 124 MPH on the 555's.

Good Luck & We Can't Wait To See Your Build Thread!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GoDadGo

• You should be very happy making 350-400 HP with similar torque figures.
• I'm making 465 HP @ 6000 and 465 Torque @5200 at the flywheel.
• The car is a dream to drive as long as you press into the throttle.
• On Nitto 555's it was a tire burner but on Nitto NT05's it is great.
• With 3.73 gears the car has run 11:30 @ 124 MPH on the 555's.

Good Luck & We Can't Wait To See Your Build Thread!

---

350-400 makes the decision easier…that’s the build 302 from Forte's…will probably think about an EFI instead of carbs, though.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wizbangdoodle

For me, this question comes down to, what look and feel do you want? I wanted an old school look, so I'm going with the stroked 351W. It will have pent roofed valve covers to mimic the old FE. I don't mind fiddling with the carb and tweaking things as needed. The Coyote eliminates a lot of that. It definitely fills up the engine bay, but you'll have modern reliability. Just my .02

---

Like this?
Attachment 202073

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wizbangdoodle

For me, this question comes down to, what look and feel do you want? I wanted an old school look, so I'm going with the stroked 351W

---

Same for me, the wow factor when I open the hood combined with the rumble of a stroked 351W.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...iumrotated.jpg

As far as the Coyote, I do like them; in Mustangs and old Broncos. For me I just can't get past how they look and sound in a Cobra.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Same for me, the wow factor when I open the hood combined with the rumble of a stroked 351W.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/Mi...iumrotated.jpg

As far as the Coyote, I do like them; in Mustangs and old Broncos. For me I just can't get past how they look and sound in a Cobra.

---

Damn, thats clean! Did you have issues tuning the Stack EFI?