Ford Coyote - oil pressure drop at high rpms

While I'm waiting for my car to come back from paint, I wanted to query the Coyote crew on oil pressure at high rpms

when I had the car dynoed at AED (Sean is awesome BTW) he did mention that at high RPMs the oil pressure can go a bit crazy on these engines, and he showed it during a few pulls
the oil pressure would build steadily as the RPMs climbed and then drop rapidly, almost like cavitating or nothing left in the pan.

https://youtu.be/a0yedDbFMgM


a bit concerning (obviously) if you're living at 7k rpm all day long, but I don't think it affects normal driving

have any of you noticed during spirited drives any oil pressure drops?

I suggest you call Ford Performance. If I recall correctly, for the aluminator engines and those that will see track duty they actually specify a thicker viscosity oil that is recommended for the street.
I have been debating on replacing the OEM oil pump components as they have had failures under high HP and extreme load conditions. Not sure if there is an aftermarket pump that would address the reduced high RPM oil pressure. I understand and would be concerned about the high RPM oil pressure drop. All of us Coyote owners could benefit from what you find out.

From the beginning, Coyote oil pressures are all over the place beginning with 100PSI at start-up and dropping to slightly more normal ranges once at operating temp. But till pretty wide swings between idle and higher RPM's. Also variables with oil. Ford recommends 5W-20 full synthetic. If you're using something different you could see some variation. But more specifically, the Gen 3 Coyote added an oil control valve. It's the second connection on the LH side of the block where we add the oil pressure sensor for the gauge. The PCM controls it. Bleeds oil pack to the pan. Probably another efficiency thing, e.g. lower oil pressure and less work for the pump under certain conditions. The automakers work pretty hard for sometimes small gains. I suspect that's what you're engine is doing. Assuming you have the oil at the right level, highly doubt the pan is empty or cavitating.

On the Aluminator, Ford installs billet gears in the oil pump. I think they are more stable and less likely to fracture than the normally installed cast gears.
The Aluminator uses 5w-50 oil.
Maybe the best advise so far is to call Ford. A crate engine is a lot of money take a risk on.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

From the beginning, Coyote oil pressures are all over the place beginning with 100PSI at start-up and dropping to slightly more normal ranges once at operating temp. But till pretty wide swings between idle and higher RPM's. Also variables with oil. Ford recommends 5W-20 full synthetic. If you're using something different you could see some variation. But more specifically, the Gen 3 Coyote added an oil control valve. It's the second connection on the LH side of the block where we add the oil pressure sensor for the gauge. The PCM controls it. Bleeds oil pack to the pan. Probably another efficiency thing, e.g. lower oil pressure and less work for the pump under certain conditions. The automakers work pretty hard for sometimes small gains. I suspect that's what you're engine is doing. Assuming you have the oil at the right level, highly doubt the pan is empty or cavitating.

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yes have the oil filled to the appropriate level, was about 10.5 qts for the Gen3 with the Moroso pan and a filter change to get it at the top of the hashmarks - and yes using 5W-20 synthetic, my first oil change was before 4 miles on the car due to all the gas dump from the crazy injector issue I had... but its all good now.

Sean (AED) mentioned all Coyotes do this, and he's tuned hundreds of them... he has done custom baffles,etc. never mentioned the oil control valve, I'm curious if Ford did that due to the amount of fluid in the engine - I think earlier Coyotes Gen1/2 were 8 quarts...

I know all Coyotes have the oil pump components can break under high pressure/race conditions and I contemplated the billet stuff from MMR, but I'm not going to be flat out racing or anything, so I figured leave stock enough alone ;)

The aluminator is a little different beast, but I don't have that one

Prior to haveing an electronic valve controlling oil the common cause of lower oil pressure at higher rpms was either a partially clogged oil pickup screen or lack of clearance from pickup to pan. I see you have an aftermarket pan. Did you check clearance?

Do not know whether this would be relevant, but on the Moroso pan instructions, it stated to install the pan with the opening up. This would be like installing it with the engine in the car.
I think there is a trap door that can be out of position and will not move back to proper location.

THe Gen 3 has a variable oil pressure solenoid - the gen 1-2's don't have this - is he logging oil pressure? - if it's a can bus gauge it will fluctuate... mine fluctuates quite a lot at cruise - then climbs at WOT but as soon as I let off it "dances" like crazy.

How is he determining that oil pressure is fluctuating? mechanical gauge?

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Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves

THe Gen 3 has a variable oil pressure solenoid - the gen 1-2's don't have this - is he logging oil pressure? - if it's a can bus gauge it will fluctuate... mine fluctuates quite a lot at cruise - then climbs at WOT but as soon as I let off it "dances" like crazy.

How is he determining that oil pressure is fluctuating? mechanical gauge?

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watching the oil gauge - not sure if logging oil pressure to be honest, could be that the sensor isn't super accurate at higher rpm? dunno just guessing - we watched after the dyno run, he recorded on his phone (don't have the video though)

How much was it warmed up before the runs? Could be cavitation if not adequately warmed up. Or it could just be that at high RPM the pump cavitates a bit even once fully warmed. Coyotes wouldnt be the only modern engines that have a bit of cavitation at high RPM on the stock oil pump.

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Originally Posted by Hoooper

How much was it warmed up before the runs? Could be cavitation if not adequately warmed up. Or it could just be that at high RPM the pump cavitates a bit even once fully warmed. Coyotes wouldnt be the only modern engines that have a bit of cavitation at high RPM on the stock oil pump.

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this was pull 8 of 10, so plenty warm ;)

Google " motor oil geek" .
They have the exact results occur on a dyno engine with explanation of why.
These videos are factual test and very interesting. You may want to have some free time, if you get involved in watching.

here's a video of the gauge... just found this :)

https://youtube.com/shorts/ntTV7CN5O...utsypD6wGPAoOL

FWIW, at least on the 15 and up Mustangs they recommend in the owners manual 5w-50 for track use. Even the 2.3 Ecoboost in a Mustang recommends 5w-50 for track use and if you order the high performance package they recommend 5w-50 all the time.