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So I had another post about doing the Kleiner Mod with the drop trunk. I just realized I am doing over riders and not quick jacks. From what I can see, there is no way to apply that mod with what I have. Looks like I have to drop the gas tank to insert the bolts from the back. I am open to other possibilities. Is it possible to insert the bolts now and still have the body fit over the bolts when I install the body later?
BTW, I love the extra space in the trunk.
Kliener Mod works for Over-Riders too. It's just a little more challenging to get the nuts on, but definitely easier than dropping the tank.
Do my coupler mod. Drill the overrider holes to 15/32”, install the all thread, spacers, etc. just as you would for quick jacks then slide the overriders on. It takes some nimble fingers—-and usually no small amount of swearing—-but you can then install nuts from the hollow side of the overriders. Done it dozens of times ;)
Jeff
Ok thanks. Didn't think that would work. Since it's been done before I will definitely try it.
Picked up the hardware today from Lowe's and Home Depot. Total cost was $25.00
I bought a 36 inch all thread rod and cut it evenly at 9 inches each. I made sure the top two couplers pass through the aluminum and is in direct contact with the frame. I used a little lock tight on the threads. Once the body and over riders are on the car I will trim the rods back a bit more.
Attachment 195346
you can also throw on some jam nuts if you want to be certain these don't move.
I certainly hope you mean you used lock tight on the threads of the that fasten the couplers to the chassis and not the all thread---because it has to be removed to install the body.Quote:
Originally Posted by Legendary
Jeff
Yes, I put it on the bolt connecting the coupler. Not on the all tread rod.
Hey Jeff! Do you a link to your Coupler Mod? I searched this and the old thread and couldn't find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Thanks! Mark
Here is one of the threads with Jeff's instructions: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...hlight=coupler
And if doing over riders, refer to this one: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...hlight=coupler
I have a OneNote notebook with links to just about everything :) This forum is awesome. Maybe one day I'll convert my notes into a searchable Google Doc with a table of contents and share the link with everyone.....has tons of details/tips/tricks I've learned over the years from the folks on the forum.
Here ya' go Mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by MPTech
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...hlight=coupler
Jeff
Thanks Jeff! We've got a new builder and an old member working on his second Roadster, both interested in this mod. They looked at mine and really liked it, but I couldn't find your original post.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Resurrecting this for a quick sanity check - IF the car is already complete, there's basically no option but to drop the gas tank to get the rear bumpers installed, correct? I've basically determined that even if I do manage to get the angles required to turn the PS top rear bumper bolt, there's no way I can remove that bolt, correct?
I've had to do it a few times when cars are sent to me with the bolts installed from the tank side. For the upper one you have to use a "death wheel" (that''s an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and no guard) and cut it as close to the head as posssible. The bolt head and remaining short section of bolt will fall off on the tank side. Do the same for the lower one. Going back in with the mod hardware is easy on the driver's side; on the passenger side access for the lower one is from below and takes a short bolt and no small amount of finger dexterity! The upper one on the passenger side is easy to get to if you remove the fuel pump access cover from the trunk floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kivyee
Good luck!
Jeff
I did my "Kleiner mod" when my car was in go-kart stage. I managed to drop the tank without FULLY dropping the tank, one because it had a significant amount of fuel in it, and two because I didn't feel like disconnecting the lines. I took some light chain and S-hooks and slung them under the tank, then loosened up the straps and let the tank hang by the chains while I was swapping out the hardware. With the S-hooks, you can sort of walk the tank down by going to the next link on each side until you have clearance.
HTH
-Kyle
"Death wheel" just made my paint faint! I figured it would be something pretty drastic like cutting off the bolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Yeah was thinking of doing a "half drop" - looks like it's just the filler hose that needs to be disconnected. Everything else has enough give to drop the 1" or so that's needed. I'll come back to this after my tank is almost empty :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kgkeys
Here is my version of the Kleiner mod done without dropping the tank.
Parts:
- 2" length of 7/16 threaded rod
- Coupler
- 2 washers
- Nyloc nut
Thread the rod into the coupler leaving enough length sticking out to place a washer on, put the rod through the chassis, add another washer, and thread on the nut.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1524444726
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1524444752
You can put another length of rod in the open end of the coupler to keep the short piece from threading in further as you put the nut on.
Jeff Kleiner, are there any differences or changes to your mod for the MK5 you have noticed ?
I think my fuel tank stops are being delivered today so I guess I should do this mod before I get my tank installed.
I'm just going with the quick jacks.
After I pleaded with them for years they finally included a modified version of my mod...a "mod mod"...which IMO is poorly executed. They are using captive nuts/clip on nuts at the rear to accept the threads of the QJ bolts. Problem is that the ones that they used, at least on the Beta cars, are $hit and galled easily locking threads between the nuts and bolts so tight that the captive nut broke free when tightened. That is exactly the word that I used when I told Jim, Jesper and Nate. Ron and Erik concurred. Jim said that they were going to look into a different supplier for these as well as the ones used for the door hinges (which is a different story and problem) so maybe they have a better supplier now. In lieu of using those you can simply use my original coupler nut method. Became a moot point on my Mk5 because I ultimately eliminated bumpers/quick jacks front and rear and made hidden mounts.Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackDay17
Jeff