design ideas, replicaparts mike everson radiator panel

I'm looking to mount my replicaparts radiator panel that I've had forever, FMan ordered 5 of them a while back and got them powdercoated - it's a nice part!

my issue/challenge is that I don't have just a flat radiator, i have the A/C condenser in front which pushes outward by 1.75-2" higher, there is bulb seal so any cuts will be 'hidden' but IMHO that's a lot to cut out

if I had perfect metal skills, an air nibbler, or some other fabrication wizardry, I could just trim that excess off so the part lies flush like it's supposed to

asking if "this is the way" or other ideas?

http://replicaparts.com/Roadster%20a...nel%20page.htm

front view
https://i.ibb.co/yh997M1/image.png

side view showing depth
https://i.ibb.co/mDg7T8M/image.png

obviously this will be much easier to test fit now before the body goes on, but trying to identify the 3D space without the body to align with

open to all ideas :)

Clearly a lotta folks had a lot of bright ideas for you :rolleyes:

I think I would mark the placement of the AC cooler position and then remove it, and temporarily install the body. The body will go on and off several times so that’s not a big deal. But I have no idea if removing the AC temporarily is even practical. If it is, then with your template for the ac cooler (maybe just a paper cutout representing the end height & width?) you can establish the proper location for the cuts.

If that’s not possible, dropping the radiator a few inches out of the way - maybe even just unfastening the lower mount, and rotating it just a few inches down at the bottom - would allow you to install the panel in order to mark it. Obviously you will need to have a paper or cardboard template you can use to represent where the radiator / AC combo ‘was’, but that seems doable.

For curved parts I didn’t want to distort I’d reach for my hand nibbler. It takes forever and is a real pain. But I never cut outside the lines or bent a piece with it. Others may say the same about a good pair of snips, but I never tried that.

Not sure I helped much - good luck, Toadster.

I would make a cardboard template of the aluminum then start cutting that until you get the fit you want.
Mike

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Originally Posted by michael everson

I would make a cardboard template of the aluminum then start cutting that until you get the fit you want.
Mike

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^^ Less wordy. And less disruptive.

Todd,

Think you are worrying too much about the A/C unit not being flush with the radiator. As I mentioned the Nomex is very flexable. Fooled around with mine this morning & there is no reason you can't build the car make a template & put in a single sheet of Nomex. It will flex more than enough to fit flush over the A/C then attach to the top of the radiator.

Sprayed black way down that hole & I don't believe the drop to the radiator will even be seen. Think cutting with a shop knife a lot easier than cutting metal, maybe an half hours work + waiting for the paint to dry.

At the end of the day you will have an exact fit that is fully functional without body off body on.

thanks guys for the feedback! here's what we started with yesterday, basic mount and create a template

https://i.ibb.co/tDsRVvF/image.png

the A/C lines, radiator hoses, etc all all attached and filled so moving them won't be an option
right now the angle is 51 degrees which is the stock setup, and the Everson panel should be 58 degrees - we just can't move it there, even with the breeze upper and lower mounts, so I'll have to modify to make this fit properly

determining the Z-bar and nomex is still a bit puzzling to me, should the shroud lie on top of the nomex sheet? or just cutout the nomex to fit the hole?

https://i.ibb.co/KyGJ6x2/IMG-0812.jpg https://i.ibb.co/R6n2vg2/IMG-0811.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/f8nxg2b/IMG-0813.jpg https://i.ibb.co/stK0J89/IMG-0815.jpg https://i.ibb.co/jffR4nb/IMG-0814.jpg

here's the template, although not cardboard, shows the basic trim
https://i.ibb.co/LnFTrzM/IMG-0820.jpg

since there is a 'step' between the radiator and condenser, I'm thinking trim the nomex to fill the hole versus having the shroud lay on top of the nomex...

also, i'm assuming the 'flat' part at the bottom should be parallel to the ground for proper fitting on the body, is that correct?
again, the body isn't here with me it's at Ken's paint shop so I can't do any pre-fit right now

Cut to fit the hole.:D You can pull it out to clean if necessary. Mine has been cleaned with compressed air from the radiator side. Have not had to remove it since installed.

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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Cut to fit the hole.:D You can pull it out to clean if necessary. Mine has been cleaned with compressed air from the radiator side. Have not had to remove it since installed.

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ok yes, that's what I was leaning toward...

what about the flat spot on the bottom of the shroud, from what I can tell it should be parallel to the ground - correct? Since I'm at 51 degrees I'll need to change the pitch a bit to line up with the body

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1554744288

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

ok yes, that's what I was leaning toward...

what about the flat spot on the bottom of the shroud, from what I can tell it should be parallel to the ground - correct? Since I'm at 51 degrees I'll need to change the pitch a bit to line up with the body

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Don't know what the degrees are. Panel is whatever degrees the radiator is as it lays flat on top of it. Panel just sits on the bottom of the Everson piece so its parallel to it.

Reaching out for my inner Da Vinci will try to explain how I thought yours might work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1706001790

Looking at you picture the L brackets stick up above the radiator's surface so the Nomex would rest on those. So the rest of the drawing will stay the same as it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1589069851

This is a pretty good look as there is some sunlight in there & you can see the edges of the Nomex for most of the hole. Part just extends up to meet the Breeze top panel. That edge is straight.

There is a section about the width of the stripes that is flat but the side curves are dictated by the body. The body has a lip around the opening & the part slips right under it forming the whole front end. You can see the lip in the second picture. So you don't need to worry about that

Only difference installed is yours will have a little lay back at the cooler/radiator joint. With the angle irons on the radiator I believe it will be so slight you can ignore it.

Thanks Kevin! really appreciate it!

I'm thinking I need to do this since I am in deep south Texas and it's HOT down here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benchwarmer

I'm thinking I need to do this since I am in deep south Texas and it's HOT down here.

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Hi Benchwarmer nice to see you off the bench & into the game.

The screen is designed to keep rocks & other chunks of crap from putting holes in the radiator. Its a pretty think part maybe 1/2" or 3/4" thick.

But would like to make a comment on heat. The panel is a Nomex Honeycomb. Its an ugly brown/tan color that needs about in my case a rattle can & a half of heat resistant BBQ paint. Even painted guys who have actually measured it suggest the air flow is not greatly impeded.

The offset is with the Everson/Breeze kit 100% of the air flowing through the front opening is forced through the core. The FFR intake alloy lets a lot of air escape over & out the sides of the radiator.

Posted before I live in NC with a summer average of around 90 with a few days over 100*F. Been out at 101*F & without a rear shroud around the fan have never overheated. High was around 206*F stopped or so on a 180*F thermostat. Coolant dropped back to its normal 180*F in a few blocks of movement. The COYOTE with a proper coolant system will run thermostat cool all year round.

Not suggesting anyone build without the rear shroud its just something I did. Have bought one & will install it if the fan goes down & I have to remove some other stuff. The round circle in the oil cooler slot is a quick & dirty cold air intake for the fuel injection. The is 5" flex tubing that runs up to the air cleaner. Have not boxed it in yet.

Toadster I'd stop now if I were you. You need the body on the car for fitment to be precise. Although I never tried it, I am pretty sure the Everson piece has to be off the car to mount the body so you will be snaking it in and out several times to get the fit you want. I'd hate for you to find that you have trimmed it too small.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CraigS

Toadster I'd stop now if I were you. You need the body on the car for fitment to be precise. Although I never tried it, I am pretty sure the Everson piece has to be off the car to mount the body so you will be snaking it in and out several times to get the fit you want. I'd hate for you to find that you have trimmed it too small.

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honestly I'm in that headspace, didn't work on it yesterday... I think for basic fitting, the mount points are done, just 2 rivets at the top of the diagonal front bars
I need to get more bulb seal and the seal on the back by the radiator as well

several folks have done this add-on afterwards so I may let it sit a moment...

thanks all, it's been a very valuable discussion!

I didn't have the complication of the condensor but I did mine on the completed car. I laid a piece of cardboard on the radiator to protect it and had it in and out 6-8 time trying to get it just right. One of those deals where you can't tell if it fits until you get it in there. But you can't get it in there until it fits. :) It is absolutely worth it in the end though.