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So Im getting ready to install my 427/TKX in the MKIV. What is the best anchor point to lift engine with hoist and maneuver into the vehicle without partial engine upper disassembly. Are there special brackets one can buy/make? thanks in advance. I attached a pic of the engine for reference.
Attachment 187776
I would think your best bet without removing the carbs is to utilize the header mount bolt holes. We used them this past weekend on a 302 install. You probably want to use the #2 and#6 header outlet for balance.Quote:
Originally Posted by mior6485
I just use the head bolt holes on the rear right and front left. I put a rag or scrap piece of wood where the chain may contact the valve cover or intake. I believe the bolts are 7/16 but I don’t remember the pitch. Can be done alone but easier with 2 friends and you. One at the pump and one at each side of the motor. The pump guy will probably have to push the tranny down to clear the shifter. I also lift the front of the car just enough to get hoist under and then lift the rear as high as I can safely on jackstands.
Henry
Get a GOOD leveler like this one. Makes all the difference over a cheap one like HF or Northern Tool. Don't ask me how I know.
Bolts at the ends of your heads are a good spot. 7/16”-14. Or header bolt holes. +1 on a good leveler. Jack up the rear of the car for a less severe angle of entry
I installed a Forte 427 with TXK and used the headbolts.
Attachment 187783
For Windsors I have made up some pieces of 2x3 rectangular tubing with holes drilled to match up with the exhaust ports and then hook the 4 chains from the leveler on these. This allows the chains to be spread father apart for extra clearance.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1557423757
As has been mentioned set the front low, but high enough to allow the hoist legs to roll under, and then raise the rear of the chassis to help with the angle. With a leveler I can stab a Windsor in by myself in about 10-15 minutes (Coyotes are a whole different story ;))
Cheers,
Jeff
Another option if the wheels are on the car is hang the engine from an eyebolt in the ceiling and roll the car as needed. No hoist legs to need to clear. I use a come-a-long and a levelor.
Sorry for resurrecting an old post... How much angle in the chassis is "safe" to have on jack stands for a coyote install? 1" split, 2" split, more, less?? Super concerned with the car sliding off doing this. I have solid pin ESCO's with the cradle saddle.
Also it looks like from the photos the rear stands are on the solid axle? If I'm running IRS where should I place mine to fight slide off? THX
I can verify the Harbor Freight leveler is a onetime use tool. Mine is completely bent out of shape after install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
There are rubber pads you can get for most jack stands that help fight sliding. Probably test it at a couple levels prior to attempting the engine install. We didn't use a lot difference between front and back and didn't have any issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by M22_COBRA
If your wheels and tires are on, build two small stacks of 2"x6"s, screwed together, and put 'em under the rear tires. Problem solved.Quote:
Originally Posted by M22_COBRA
Summit Racing has excellent engine hoists and levelers. I put the rear on my little oil change ramps and slowly but surely was able to use the hoist and leveler to install without issue.
I'm not sure what you mean by a 1" split, but you could use some standard jack stands on the 4" tubes in the back and raise them maybe a few notches above flush and have plenty of room. As stated, there are pads that you can put on them to keep from sliding but I never worried about that. Add a couple of 2x4's under the front wheels to give you room for the crane legs and you'll be good to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by M22_COBRA
I concur with all this. +2 on a GOOD Leveler (life saver IMO) and long enough chain to clear the carbs. My hoist hack is to cut a bike tube and slipped it over the chains for protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy79
it's always worked for me and not cumbersome as to get in the way. Good luck!
That's a good idea with the bike tube. My leveler is the BIG red variant, seemed to be pretty good when I got the engine out of the truck and on the engine stand.
Good idea on the oil change ramps too. I have those and they are about 8". I figure if I put the E-stopp parking brake on, clamp the steering, and block the front wheels that should give me enough rake in the body and hold it still. Question is that enough clearance for the hoist legs. Looks like Jeff put the front on dual 6" beams.
Old post I know. Just a thought on covering the hoist or leveler chains. Use thorn resistant tubes as the rubber is much thicker.