Help request: How to remove front spindle / knuckle from lower ball joint?

Hi folks, looking for the voice of experience here...

I got my front suspension more or less together and discovered some bad burrs / damage on the spindle threads when trying to put the spindle nut on. I've got a machine shop just down the road that can chase the threads and make sure its all cleaned up.

But I have spent this afternoon failing to remove the spindle from the lower control arm ball joint.

I just got back from AutoZone where I borrowed a ball joint separator - only to find it can't open wide enough to bite the ball joint stud. I've tried gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet with the blocked up to hold it in place, and some home-made threaded rod / nut gadget I threw together. This last had a chance of working I think, but the 5/16 rod I had buckled one put under compression.

Next idea is to redo the threaded rod pusher contraption, but with bigger stock.

But, at this point also looking for any other ideas. I'm used to like morse tapers in a machine tool, but never had one that is this frozen, and wonder what I'm missing here.

Thanks

Anything less than 7 degrees is a locking taper so that's what's happened here. You could try shocking it. Try jacking up on the spindle so that the spring is pushing down and trying to pull the taper apart. Give the spindle a good hard fast whack where the taper is and see if it breaks loose. Good chance it will.

I've had good luck with an air hammer with a pickle fork, although it can damage the boots.

Could leave it on and use a thread file to clean up the threads.

The tapered stud/tapered bore used for ball joints and tie rod ends are easily separated by giving the spindle casting around the joint one hard whack with a hefty hammer. It also helps to use a backup hammer and a slight "apart" pull so you see when the connection comes apart. This is no time for tapping with a regular hammer, so bring out the serious hammers and give it one hard, square hit. Be sure to screw the castle nut partially back on to protect the threads should you accidentally miss and damage the stud threads. If you hit the casting firm and square, it should not leave any mark, as one good firm hit should do it. Daily drivers with 100k usually will take 3-4 hits, but this should pop with 1-2 at most. The trick is to not be shy and let it know you mean business. It will yield to you. The photo shows how to have the castle nut partially on, but not tight or seated, it needs room to pop. How this works is the hammer sets up a vibration which releases the grip. This is no backyard hack, it is the way almost every suspension shop separates ball joints and tie rod ends. It also will not damage the boots like pickle forks will. I am actually assembling my front suspension today, so I had all these parts on the bench already.

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Originally Posted by DanQ

The tapered stud/tapered bore used for ball joints and tie rod ends are easily separated by giving the spindle casting around the joint one hard whack with a hefty hammer. It also helps to use a backup hammer and a slight "apart" pull so you see when the connection comes apart. This is no time for tapping with a regular hammer, so bring out the serious hammers and give it one hard, square hit. Be sure to screw the castle nut partially back on to protect the threads should you accidentally miss and damage the stud threads. If you hit the casting firm and square, it should not leave any mark, as one good firm hit should do it. Daily drivers with 100k usually will take 3-4 hits, but this should pop with 1-2 at most. The trick is to not be shy and let it know you mean business. It will yield to you. The photo shows how to have the castle nut partially on, but not tight or seated, it needs room to pop. How this works is the hammer sets up a vibration which releases the grip. This is no backyard hack, it is the way almost every suspension shop separates ball joints and tie rod ends. It also will not damage the boots like pickle forks will. I am actually assembling my front suspension today, so I had all these parts on the bench already.

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This is what I do as well. Always works, just hit it hard, not a tap.

Dan just told you how to do it!

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanQ

The tapered stud/tapered bore used for ball joints and tie rod ends are easily separated by giving the spindle casting around the joint one hard whack with a hefty hammer. It also helps to use a backup hammer and a slight "apart" pull so you see when the connection comes apart. This is no time for tapping with a regular hammer, so bring out the serious hammers and give it one hard, square hit. Be sure to screw the castle nut partially back on to protect the threads should you accidentally miss and damage the stud threads. If you hit the casting firm and square, it should not leave any mark, as one good firm hit should do it. Daily drivers with 100k usually will take 3-4 hits, but this should pop with 1-2 at most. The trick is to not be shy and let it know you mean business. It will yield to you. The photo shows how to have the castle nut partially on, but not tight or seated, it needs room to pop. How this works is the hammer sets up a vibration which releases the grip. This is no backyard hack, it is the way almost every suspension shop separates ball joints and tie rod ends. It also will not damage the boots like pickle forks will. I am actually assembling my front suspension today, so I had all these parts on the bench already.

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Dan has obviously done a little suspension work. Take his advice, break out the BFH!

Awesome! Thank you DanQ