Coyote full length header alignment side to side?

I'm having 'fun' putting these headers on - the passenger side, as most say is pretty easy
the driver side... pick your favorite expletive :)

these are FFR#16791 COYOTE FULL LENGTH STAINLESS HEADER ASSEMBLY w/CATS
they're Jet-Hot coated, but not polished due to the catalytic material

my concern in this post is the alignment between the driver and passenger footbox, the driver side looks so tight that I won't be able to get a rivet gun in there to do the outside driver door box
the passenger side has all the space in the world...

the engine is 'in' and the alignment pins are all good - everything torqued down except the transmission, but playing with a jack it only tilts the engine front to back, no sideways tweaking

optical illusion and it's ok? or should I be digging for issues?

Driver side (note only 2 front bolts are attached currently and not quite 'snug' but they holding a pretty solid angle)
Attachment 176444

passenger side, 6 of 8 bolts are in, not fully torqued yet, but I figured I should check before I fully torque these in
Attachment 176445

I have the same set up and same headers and mine looks the same. I have about 1/2 inch clearance between the flange on the header and the drivers side foot box. I had installed the outside footbox panel prior to installing the engine, which avoided the clearance issue you mentioned with riveting. I only left the top of the footbox open for access.

Why are you comparing the headers to the foot box wall? The foot box isn't the same side to side, the passenger wall is behind the tube, not in front.

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Originally Posted by Tbev

I have the same set up and same headers and mine looks the same. I have about 1/2 inch clearance between the flange on the header and the drivers side foot box. I had installed the outside footbox panel prior to installing the engine, which avoided the clearance issue you mentioned with riveting. I only left the top of the footbox open for access.

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ok good point, probably a good idea for me to pull the header and put the side on now :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rich grsc

Why are you comparing the headers to the foot box wall? The foot box isn't the same side to side, the passenger wall is behind the tube, not in front.

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agreed rich, I guess I was just concerned that we somehow welded the engine mount alignment pin incorrectly - all good - thanks!

I'm not at this point yet, but is the answer to put the headder on after?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tooth

I'm not at this point yet, but is the answer to put the headder on after?

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assuming you mean after you install the engine? in my case, yes - the longtube headers will not clear the engine bay side rails
theoretically you could put these headers on while the engine dangles above the mounts, but that's probably not the safest method, although it may give more clearance on the driver side

I believe if you're using shorty/OEM headers you can mount them prior to dropping the engine in and install the J-pipe afterward - I just don't have those parts...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tooth

I'm not at this point yet, but is the answer to put the header on after?

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I followed Paul's advice (edwardb) from his 20th anniversary build thread and mated the drivers side header up to the engine as I was dropping the engine in (post 298 in his build thread). He explained it clearly enough in his build thread that even I got it :) The passenger side is no problem putting in after the engine is on the mounts.

Bit of advice to save a lot of cursing...mock up the headers with the engine out to make sure all the header bolt holes line up. I had to elongate a few holes on the flange to get all the bolts in. Would have been a nightmare in the chassis!

Nightmare! Pfff, it’s not that easy. It’s more like balancing a ball on a ball blindly, while dead lifting twice as much as you ever have before.

This is exactly what I sounded like:

https://youtu.be/QuCT8qk4c5I

LOL i have to laugh... that driver side will haunt me for years I'm sure... will find out more tonight :)

probably need more tools! I think folks have used crows foot wrenches, Allen wrenches (since my bolts have a hex center)
Attachment 176453

Todd, maybe cut the outside panel of the footbox around the header for just that part. Then you can just add a two inch piece of aluminum to rivet the two pieces back together. Kind of like you did with the trans tunnel.

Btw, you are now officially ahead of me. Nice work!