Tremec TKX with Hydraulic Clutch: Gear engaged with Clutch Full Depressed?

Hi - Getting ready for go-kart rattle test. I have Coyote with the Tremec TKX and a hydraulic clutch throw-out bearing (Ram, I think). Pretty sure I bled the clutch line properly. The reservoir is still full.

Here's the issue: when I depress the clutch all the way and put the car into 1st, it starts rolling. And when I release the clutch, it stops. I thought the ports on the bearing were interchangeable. Is it possible to get the these lines reversed so that that the clutch is engaged with pedal all the way up, and disengaged when you actually press the pedal down???

Thanks,

32J

They are interchangeable but you should use the higher of the two ports for the bleed line/valve.

Also, I found the bleed process to be a bit different for the bearing vs brakes. Bleeding worked for me when the bleed line was actually immersed in some fluid - leave the valve open between pumps and pump slowly until no air comes out....

The master cylinder has to be matched to the hydraulic throw out bearing somewhat - the smaller the bore the easier the effort but less volume of fluid gets pushed so the less travel of the bearing.... So you have to make sure the bore is big enough to get enough travel. On the other end, too much travel causes some bearings to blow out and therefore a stop on the clutch pedal to limit travel is recommended.

Steve

Unless I'm mis-reading your post, it's working the way it's supposed to. With the clutch pedal pushed down, the engine is disconnected from the transmission (clutch disengaged), so the car will be free to roll. Regardless of whether it's in gear or not. With the clutch pedal released (clutch engaged), if it's in gear (and the engine not running of course) at low speed the car will stop because the rear wheels, trans, clutch, etc. can't turn the engine over against compression. Your use of the terms engaged and disengaged should refer to the clutch itself, e.g. the connection between the engine flywheel and the transmission input shaft. Not the clutch pedal.

As for your question about the lines, I did a Tilton HRB in mine and the instructions said the two lines were no different. Once installed, use the top line for the bleeder and the bottom line for the master cylinder. Just Googled RAM instructions, and they say the same thing.

I think I may still have some air in the clutch cylinder or in the line somewhere. Going through bleed process again.

Thanks,

32J

Okay, it was just some air trapped in the cylinder, I think. Got it on the road for first time. The thing that surprised me the most was the sensitivity of that Ford electronic gas pedal. Hopefully I can have that adjusted with the flash tune.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 32J

The thing that surprised me the most was the sensitivity of that Ford electronic gas pedal. Hopefully I can have that adjusted with the flash tune.

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Also consider you have the motor of a Mustang GT in a chassis that's lighter than a Triumph TR6.

A little bit of throttle is gonna bring big vroom.

Someone gave me a tip about Pedal Commander, but it's nearly $400. I think I'll just have the "tuner guy" adjust the pedal sensitivity rate when the entire car is dyno'd and tuned.