Lap Belt Mount Holes?

Hello,
I’ve been working on my Roadster MK4 cockpit aluminum panel fitting for a while now. It’s all going together pretty well with some coaxing here and there. I’m taking my time and really enjoying every step in this process. I’ll be sending all my panels out for Powder coat after I’ve got them all drilled and fitted properly. My goal here is to have all the holes and trimming finished before powder coating. I’m sure it would not be the end of the world to drill some holes after PC. Covered in carpet and probably lizard skin too nobody would ever see it. But I’d know, and I think it’s sort of the reason for doing this mockup so as not to disturb the powder coating any more than is needed. My question comes in with the large floor/trans tunnel wall pieces. Much later in the manual (pages 441-443 in my book) it instructs you to drill a ½ hole through the seatbelt lap mount tabs into the transmission tunnel wall for the ½-13 mounting bolts. It also says to leave the ½-13 nut in the transmission tunnel so that tells me which way they want the bolt to “point”. But a ½-13 nylon lock nut is like an .875 diameter over the corners of the nut. The transmission tunnel walls and lap belt mounting tabs are not parallel and there is about a .250 -.500 inch space between the tab and the panel. So theoretically the nut would catch the panel and bend or distort the aluminum when tightened. Not to mention leaving two holes in the tunnel. SO I’m looking for some tribal knowledge here of what people have done in that area. I was thinking cut a bigger clearance hole for the nut so as not to distort the panel. Then make some kind of little aluminum patch to cover up the protruding screw and nut on the inside of the tunnel or just cover it with silicone. I’ve looked around the forum a bit and don’t see this mentioned. I could have missed it, if so I apologize. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Let it squeeze the panel when tightened and don’t look back. Trust me on this :)

Jeff

I'd recommend you don't overthink this X2. (1) The gap you're describing will be largely filled by the tab of the seatbelt on that side plus whatever insulation and carpet you add. All reasons why the nut won't fit on the inside. (2) Whatever deflection you get in the aluminum panel is completely obscured by the seat bottom and back in that area. You'll never see it. (3) The hardware provided is coated, so not particularly rust prone. I've left mine as is, and haven't noticed any issues during annual maintenance. Having said that, if it makes you feel better you could paint or coat in some manner. But really don't think it's necessary. Some type of aluminum cover or patch or whatever also not necessary IMO. I agree there's sometimes room for improvement (and complication...) by deviating from the manual. But in this case what they describe works just.

I squeezed a large washer or two between the mounting tab and aluminium to reduce the bending/ distortion of the panel.

I did the same as my Viking brother.


John

So I did all drilling and fitting after powdercoat without a problem. if it's a good powdercoat it will treat a drill like a non-powder coated panel, in other words not an issue.

Just remember your fitting without powdercoat will be slightly off from the actual fitting after the powdercoat. You are adding a small amount of surface to both panels and when they come together you'll have to work through it.

If you want me to send any pic of any of my panels drilled after powdercoat just let me know.

Capt. B

I just bent the seat belt mounts until they touched the trans tunnel aluminum. I then just cut the insulation and carpet to go around the seat belt mount. If you do it this way you can tighten the seat belt bolt and not distort the aluminum.

Always listen to Kleiner!