Forte's Hydraulic Clutch setup / instructions

From some strange mishap, my Coyote/TKX setup came without the slave cylinder - Mike was great and shipped it out - but I'm a bit confused on instructions (or lack thereof)

I understand the premise of the components, but I'm thinking of the assembly, the angles, the lubrication, etc.

When I received the Coyote/TKX - all that was attached was the adapter to the clutch fork, and I though - hmm, this ain't right?!
Attachment 154715

so I called up Mike - love the guy, he can tell some great stories! He chatted with me while he was checking on his chicken coop :)
he shipped some parts, and I'm still a little perplexed... surely there's instructions - right? nope - not in a one page setup as I had hoped...
Attachment 154716

I disassembled a bit more to see the piston behind the rubber grommet and see where the aluminum cup should go
Attachment 154717

so a few questions...

do you lube the aluminum cup inside and out, the piston cup itself, and the rod? it seems like a busy friction point - white lithium grease or synthetic lube?

also, when I go to mount the slave cylinder, a few things.
1. I think there should be some shims to straighten the throw - correct?

Attachment 154720 Attachment 154718 Attachment 154719

and secondly, the bolts sent with the slave, don't really fit the mount! anyone know the thread size on those bolts?

https://i.imgur.com/cq6MLel.mp4
https://i.imgur.com/cq6MLel.mp4

I've done several of his setups. But the parts have changed quite a bit since then. I've never understood why he doesn't include instructions. Must like you to call so he can tell his stories... :rolleyes: The slave has to be lined up with the adapter on the clutch arm so it's a straight push. It can't be at an angle like that. Maybe the adapter needs to be turned around so it's further in and lined up? Even though you said it came bolted already. I'd try that. The cup piece goes over the end of the pushrod and fits into the piston on the slave. Some type of lubricant is appropriate. White lithium would be a good choice. It may not be obvious yet but the pushrod is intentionally too long and has to be trimmed to fit. Once you have everything lined up, and the adjustment somewhere in the middle, you want to trim the pushrod so there's a little bit of play. As I recall about 1/8".

https://youtu.be/MgQvEP-gfGQ

Todd, you are missing the spacers that go between the slave and mount and as you noticed wrong size bolts. You can pick some up spacers at your local ACE hardware along with the correct size bolts. As EB mentioned I also used some white lithium grease. I can check bolt size when I get home tomorrow for you, sorry I can't remember what it is. I will also take a pic of what spacers I ended up using to get the straightest throw from the pushrod.

You will also need to trim down the pushrod to get the 1/8" play between the clutch fork and TOB. You basically want the barrel to come flush with the end of cylinder when fully engaged, maybe a little past if needed. If the barrel comes out too far it will bind up and cause all kinds of problems (ask me how I know). You can pull back the rubber boot to see the slave working.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1601175317

Here is my video I sent to mike for confirmation I had it correct, I ended up adjusting it a little more to reduce the throw. Notice the barrel is sticking out past the cylinder at full extension. It was a little farther than I felt comfortable with.

https://youtu.be/kV2CjyX68FU

thanks guys - had a few email exchanges with Mike this weekend

went and grabbed a few 3/8-16-1" and 1.25" bolts, and some 1/8th inch washers just in case I need to move the body of the slave outward a bit
you guys and Mike suggested flipping the clutch arm mount - that may align things better...

now I'm trying to determine how much of the pushrod to trim...
originally I thought it was just the master that needed trimming, but both need trimming...

is it best to trim from the tip or from the threads? (and chase with the provided locknut?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

thanks guys - had a few email exchanges with Mike this weekend

went and grabbed a few 3/8-16-1" and 1.25" bolts, and some 1/8th inch washers just in case I need to move the body of the slave outward a bit
you guys and Mike suggested flipping the clutch arm mount - that may align things better...

now I'm trying to determine how much of the pushrod to trim...
originally I thought it was just the master that needed trimming, but both need trimming...

is it best to trim from the tip or from the threads? (and chase with the provided locknut?)

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Cut from the unthreaded end. Leave the threaded end alone so you have maximum adjustment available. You'll be adjusting the pushrod as a normal part of maintenance as the clutch wears.

Todd, here was my final spacer and clutch fork bracket configuration I ended up with. This was about the best I could come up with for a straight shot when extended out, if I flipped the mounting block on clutch fork opposite it would cause the extension angle to get all crazy even with larger spacers. Knock on wood this has been working great for the past 1700 miles. It is a nice set up just takes a little bit of time to dial it in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1635169658

Notice the smaller spacers in-between the clutch slave and mounting bracket

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1635169658

awesome - thanks guys, will be playing around with it tonight ;)

When the slave cylinder is installed/adjusted correctly should there be a little bit of slop on the fork, or do I need to take all of the end play out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by runamuk

When the slave cylinder is installed/adjusted correctly should there be a little bit of slop on the fork, or do I need to take all of the end play out?

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There should be a little play. I would say in the 1/16 - 1/8" range. It will change as the clutch wears, e.g. tighten back up. Depending on the miles and how hard you drive the car, needs to be a routine maintenance check to adjust as necessary.

FYI, Mike changed his kit for this setup. I got a small L bracket that requires you to drill two holes in the bellhousing instead of using the CNC'd bracket and spacers. I'll add some pics when I get mine set up.