ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index #137) - Trickle Charger Port Added
* Build Index Added - Post #137-#138 (will keep this updated as the build progresses)
Hi everyone!
I've been a member of the forum for many years, doing tons of research and planning my build. I've met quite a few members of this forum and the local Cobra Club here in Austin, some of who gave me rides in their cars and spent many hours answering questions for me. I was planning to do a salvage Coyote build in about a year, but recently a partially started MK4 kit came up for sale that I couldn't pass up. This kit has almost all the options I was planning and was within my "budget". So after many years of dreaming of this build, I've finally taken the plunge. It all happened fairly quickly so I wasn't really prepared - I spent the entire weekend rearranging my garage, building shelving, and shuffling tools around. But in the end I was able to make the space I need. I'll be building this in a 2.5 car garage and my wife's car will take up one spot. With the help of a good friend, and a very generous offer to borrow an enclosed trailer already set up for Cobras, I picked up the partially started kit on 8/11/21 from north Houston and hauled it back to Austin.
About Me
I have very little practical experience when it comes to working on cars other than basic maintenance, so I plan to ask a lot of questions and seek advice from more experienced builders. It's one of the things I love about this group - everyone is willing to help and offer advice. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade and I'm not afraid to fab custom parts. So this build will be a first for me in many respects, but something I've been wanting to do for at least a decade.
Goals of this build:
I will primarily be doing street driving but have hopes of doing some beginner autocross occasionally. We do have a lot of great twisty roads and hill country surrounding Austin. I'll probably go to car shows every now and then as well. I want to add in a lot of creature comforts (AC, heated seats) to extend the driving season as the weather in TX can be brutal especially in the summer.
Kit Details & Build Plan:
At this time, I'm thinking that I want to go with a more modern look. I'm highly considering blacking out all the chrome (and wheels) and going with a less than traditional paint scheme. But I'm not 100% decided yet. I hope to make up my mind once I'm at go-kart stage. Here's a list of the major options/accessories included in the kit I purchased, which was shipped from FFR in late 2019. All parts were new/crate when purchased originally. Some of the items I don't plan to use and will probably sell them on the forum later once I'm sure I won't be using them.
From FFR:
- MK IV COMPLETE KIT
- POWDERCOATING ROADSTER CHASSIS
- MODULAR 4.6/COYOTE ENG/TRANS MOUNT KIT
- 2015 IRS PARTS w/COMPLETE KIT
- COYOTE FULL LENGTH HEADERS WITH KIT
- BODY CUT-OUTS
- BLACK LEATHER SEATS UPGRADE
- COYOTE POWER STEERING w/COMPLETE KIT
- FRONT LOWER ARMS - STANDARD WIDTH
- FFR GPS GAUGE SET W/KIT
- Mk4 STAINLESS STEEL BUMPER KIT (will probably sell)
- STAINLESS SIDE EXHAUST UPGRADE w/HDW
- WIND WINGS
- 1.50" MK IV LH CHROME ROLL BAR UPGRADE
- 14" LEATHER STEERING WHEEL UPGRADE (will probably sell & replace w/ wooden trim wheel from FFR)
- 2018 IRS 3.55 CENTER SECTION & SPINDLES
- 12.88" FRONT WILWOOD BRAKES - RED W/KIT
- 12.88" 2015 IRS WILWOOD BRAKE KIT - RED
- SUN VISORS
- ROADSTER WIPER KIT (may sell this)
- 1.50" PASS SIDE CHROME ROLLBAR
- 1.50" ROLLBAR GROMMET SET
- ASSEMBLED SIDE LOUVER SET
- 18" HALIBRAND STYLE WHEEL/TIRE PACKAGE
- COYOTE INSTALLATION KIT
Other Items (included in sale)
- Coyote Gen 2 Crate Engine - Complete and assembled (Forte)
- Tremec-T56 Transmission - mounted to the engine (Forte)
- Hydroboost (Forte)
- Hydraulic Clutch (Forte)
- Modified Wilwood Pedal Box Assembly (Forte)
- LED Headlamps (will probably replace with different style)
- OTB-6444 S.S. Triple Reservoir
- Ford Mustang 2005-2018 Mass Air Flow Housing , 3.50" OD (HS-SS-350D6)
- 3.5" Diameter Aluminum Honeycomb Air Straightener Screen, 1/4" (6mm) Cell (S-350D14)
- ThermoTech COOL-IT mats (for cockpit insulation)
- Radiator Fan Shroud
- lots of tools (engine hoist, torque wrenches, sockets, cleco tools, drill bits, grease gun, wheel dollies, brake flaring tool....lots of others I can't remember)
Additional Mods/Accessories
Here are some of the mods I'm considering, but not 100% decided on yet (more research needed):
- Air conditioning/Heating
- Heated seats (possibly cooled as well if possible)
- All LED interior and headlamp lighting
- Under-dash closeout panel
- USB under-dash ports
- Cup holders in trans tunnel
- Push-button start
- Roll bar LEDs
- Front battery mount
- Drop trunk storage mod
- Rear cockpit wall cubby
- High-back seats - although I prefer the look of the low-backs, I may go with high backs for added safety
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Custom saddle leather interior - seats, trans tunnel, rear cockpit wall, door cards
- FFR carbon fiber dash (may covered in same saddle leather TBD - I saw another builder do this and it looked great)
- Russ Thompson turn signal + quick release steering wheel
- Maybe a bit ambitious, but I'm considering attempting the tilt-front mod (Jazzman & 2bking sent me detailed plans/instructions on how to pull this off, but man it looks like a real challenge!)
- Body work & paint - I'll outsource these more than likely, although I do love how a lot of the first time builders pulled this off....something to be said for DIY if you have the patience for it
In the next post I'll provide some pics and additional details of the current state of this kit, as the previous owner got a good start on some of the main components. Still plenty to do, and lots of ways to make it my own!
Questions about pulling out the engine
Hi folks,
I've been going through the boxes, just getting a feel for where different parts are located. For the most part, items are still in the original FFR numbered boxes. However, there are quite a few backordered parts that arrived later that are in random boxes so I'm trying to label everything really well before I stack them on my shelving to clear up the garage space. This weekend my goal is to get the body hoisted up to the ceiling (like THIS), and get the car back up on jack stands so I can pull the wheels off. Then I plan to start going through the build manual step-by-step to verify the assembly for front/rear suspension, control arms, knuckles/hubs, rotors and Wilwood brake installs. I'm mainly planning to check clearances/gaps, and also re-check that all fasteners have been torqued down and then mark the fastener heads with something like THIS.
On to other questions:
- Before I pull the engine out (to do some of the suggested stuff in the thread above such as fuel lines, electrical, etc), are there other things I should mock up now while it is in the frame such as electrical harness routing (others?).
- Once I do finally pull the engine, should I remove it with the trans still attached or decouple it from the transmission? Right now nothing is really bolted down other than the engine mounts
- Finally, I saw some people either build an engine stand out of wood (looking @ edwardb's 20th anniversary build) OR I know you can buy them as well. If I keep the trans on it, what's the best way to support it? Do I just add an beam under the transmission to support the weight of it? I know I can't just set it on the ground because it could damage the Moroso oil pan. Just looking for best suggestions on how to prop up the engine/trans while I get the other engine bay work completed.
Body hoisted - frame up on quick jacks
Well I accomplished my goal for the weekend, which was to buy some new tools (3-ton floor jack, 3-ton jack stands, pneumatic rivet gun, eyelet bolts), get the body off, hoisted the body up to the garage ceiling and out of the way, and then get the frame up on the quick jacks. Next steps will be to finish inventory review - I'm not doing a 100% review as this has been completed by the previous owner, but rather going through all the boxes to get familiar with them. For items that came in backordered, they aren't in the original numbered boxes so I'm trying to label them well and take pictures of what's in the box so I have an easier visual way to find stuff as it comes up in the assembly manual. After I pull the wheels I can start going through the assembly manual step-by step to check out all the work that has been done so far (front/rear suspension, steering column and rack, rotors and Wilwood brakes). While I don't plan on removing too much stuff, I do want to double-check the torque and mark all the bolts that have been buttoned up fully. Anything else I should specifically look for? I'll post some pics in some of these areas (particularly the suspension and steering column and steering rack) to get some feedback if everything looks OK (again - I'm relatively new to this so I don't know what I don't know).
I have a question about how I hoisted the body. I used a method I read about in this thread HERE and HERE, basically using a 2x4 to support the body via the trunk and hood opening and raising with some cheap ratcheting hoists (1/4", 300lb load rating per pair) I bought on Amazon ($10/pair). It worked like a charm - very easy to raise/lower and it gets the body out of the way. I like this better than a rolling body buck because I won't have to move it every time I want to work on the car.
Now to my question: Should I be concerned at all about deforming the body if I keep it elevated and supported like this for an extended period of time (let's say 6mo - 1 yr)? I do have a cross-brace between the front/rear cockpit openings, but wasn't sure if the 2x4 would cause any support issues over time. I didn't add any padding under the 2x4 - I could easily put some rags or something there but the fiberglass seems to be pretty stout as-is. Worst case I can cut the body profile out of plywood like you would with a body buck to support it better - I just wasn't sure if that was really needed. Opinions welcome!
Picture time:
Here is the hoist setup:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1629685558
Here it is lifted to the ceiling and out of the way - note I had to rotate it 90° to clear the garage door when it is open. I'm 6'1" and it clears my head by a good 4 or 5 inches so I won't have to duck - nice!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1629685599
Close-up of the hoist w/ 2x4 support brace in the hood - same setup in the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1629685599
Jack-stand locations on main frame tubes. Front stands sit just behind the cross-tube, and the rear stands are just in front of where the rectangular tube bisects the main frame tubes:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1629685558
Rear view:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1629685558
Aluminum panels - refinish or buy replacements?
As I was working on the car this weekend I found that in several areas where the aluminum had been coated with POR15, it was coming off. I was peeling off in large flakes which makes me think the panels weren't cleaned properly prior to putting on the POR15. Other panels seem rock solid and it seems like it would be damn near impossible to remove it. I'm going to try some solvent on a few areas that would be covered with carpet just to see how much of a pain it would be to remove it and re-finish. I also plan to reach out to a local powder coater and see if they have any type of acid/solvent bath that could remove this stuff. While I'm doing that, I've requested a quote from FFR for new panels on any of the parts that are visible in the engine bay or wheel wells. I'm guessing it wouldn't be cheap to just get new panels, but if it saves me a week of sanding I might just do it. What budget? :) However, the downside of new panels is that the frame has already been drilled for rivets, so I'd need to maybe line up the new panel with the old ones and mark the holes that way everything lines up when I install them. I think that will work OK.
Pic of the firewall POR15 peeling:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1629842372
Pic of the passenger footwell panels. These are going to be a chore to remove. They aren't riveted, but they have been siliconed. I figure I can slice through the silicone with an exacto and then try to clean up the frame after the panels come off so that the new panels sit flush. F-panels will also be difficult to remove with the front suspension already installed. They have been riveted/siliconed, and I don't think I have access to a few of the rivets unless I disassemble some of the front end....may not be worth it for those two panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1629842372
Hydroboost plumbing and proportional valve questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
edwardb
If you use new panels, I agree trying to match the old holes would be difficult. Just not necessary IMO. Lay out new hole locations avoiding the old ones. During final installation, just make sure to get some silicone in each of the old holes. Will seal them up and gone.
You may find the cost for new panels from FF could be a bit expensive. They don't give them away. Plus the shipping won't be cheap. Not to mention how busy they are right now and you might end up waiting. Short of destroyed panels, I'd try to reuse what you have. Powder coating often includes media blasting (versus solvent) which might remove the old paint. Not sure what your capabilities are, but fabbing panels yourself isn't that hard. One more option.
Good points - and I did consider that lining up the panels to mark the rivet holes might not work out. I guess it would depend on the cost of new FFR panels. I could try a few and see if it works and if it doesn't I would drill new holes and patch the old ones like suggested. I just really like the look of the cleaned/brushed aluminum + shark hide finish. But, depending on how much of a pain this is, I may just leave it and move forward. Worst case I can scuff and patch the POR15 where it is peeling up, buy my concern is that other areas will peel over time.
For those that have installed Forte's hydroboost, I need some help with understanding the plumbing. I've watched some Youtube videos so now I'm an expert :) - can anyone confirm if I have the plumbing correct for this unit? I know I can reach out to Forte but I thought I'd ask here first. Also, if anyone has pics of how they routed the hydroboost lines that would be a big help. From the looks of it, I might want to get some 90° -6AN adapters for those high pressure lines coming out of the hydroboost but wanted to see how others route the hoses before I buy anything.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1629861502
Am I correct in my assumption that you can use a proportional valve on the brake lines coming out of the hydroboost to adjust the front/rear brake bias? Is this needed/recommended? Is there a particular proportional valve p/n that is recommended for this setup?
Stripping POR15 from aluminum panels
Not a lot to report last weekend - busy with the family and holiday. I did get a chance to pull out the aluminum in the passenger footbox and firewall. I had to drill out a few rivets but since they are aluminum it took all of 2-3 seconds per rivet. I made sure to take a lot of pics prior to disassembly so I know how it goes back together with the seam overlaps. I also had to cut through a layer of silicone between the panels and the frame, and between the panel overlaps. No issues.
Now the fun part - removing the POR15. I started with an orbital sander using 60-grit and 80-grit disks. It worked fine but was very labor intensive. It took about 20 minutes of solid effort to get one side of the firewall clean, and part is completely flat. Most of the other panels have bends in them which would make the sander difficult. After some searching and asking on the FFR Builder Facebook page, someone suggested using Aircraft Paint Stripper. I picked up a can at a local auto-parts store, followed the directions, and voila the POR15 bubbles up after 5-10 minutes and scrapes off with a plastic spatula. Easy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1631194984
And here are the panels after stripping. The paint stripper doesn't lift up the silicone (as expected) so I still have a little bit of cleanup to do.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1631194984
I've received a quote from a local powder coat shop that is reasonable ($450 to blast & powder coat all panels) so I'll bring one of the other powder coated panels in to match, and then get all these stripped panels re-coated with a similar matte black powder coat. I also plan to include the trunk aluminum and rear cockpit wall because I had them include that in the quote, so why not. My main concern is that the POR15 is peeling up on those too and I'm worried over time the carpet will pull up if I don't take care of it now. They said they should be able to media blast the POR15 off of those - I could have done that with the visible engine panels instead of using the stripper but I didn't want to take any chances.
Many parts were ordered last week as mentioned in the previous post, and those should be arriving in the next few days. I'll fit the Breeze front battery box once it arrives - I may need to relocate the front hard brake line if it interferes (TBD). Original builder didn't run it across the X-tube so it might be in the way. I still need to re-torque all the bolts in the suspension too - hopefully I can get to that this weekend.
Tank Removed and Kleiner Quick Jack Mod
This weekend I removed the tank so that I could install the Russ Thompson drop trunk box. So first order of business was to remove the bolts for the trunk --> I went ahead and bought a metric and SAE set of deep sockets since I didn't have either yet (more tools!). That made the job easy. I used my floor jack to support the tank while lowering it slowly. No problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1632105477
Next, since I had the tank removed I went ahead and installed the bolts and couplers nuts for the Kleiner Quick Jack mod (if you aren't familiar with this, it allows you to remove the body without having to drop the gas tank). I found all the parts I needed @ Home Depot. I bought 7/16-14 all-thread rod, 7/16-14 x 0.75" bolts, washers, and 7/16-14 coupler nuts (1.75" length). I'll put the rod aside until I'm ready to cut it to length. For now I just need to get the coupler nuts installed with the 3/4" length bolts installed from the tank side and everything else can be added later. Here is a shot from the rear after installing into the frame brackets:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1632105477
And from the tank side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1632105477
RT Trunk box install on next post.
Russ Thompson Drop Trunk Kit Install
With the Kleiner mod complete, I went ahead and assembled the RT drop trunk kit. The parts went together without any issues - Russ's instructions worked just fine. So I riveted the box together first (this is just prior to drilling):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1632105477
Before I removed the tank I measured where the fuel level sensor was so I could attempt to position the hole in the drop trunk kit above that. I then positioned the kit from underneath and held it in place with the floor jack and a piece of lumber. From the top-side, I marked where the frame cross-bars intersected the flanges on the drop trunk box. I used a dremel w/ cutoff wheel to trim the aluminum flanges to a depth of 3/4" per Russ's instructions. I found this to be very tedious and I ended up having to tweak my cuts several times until I got the fit I wanted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1632105500
Next up, I re-positioned the box, installed the rear trunk aluminum (with clecos) and marked the bottom face of the trunk deck where the drop-trunk opening should be. I removed the trunk deck and cut the hole using a jigsaw w/ metal cutter bit (started w/ .25" holes in all 4 corners to get the blade through).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1632105500
Finally, after re-installing and tweaking the edges a bit to get a good fit, I was ready to start drilling the rivet holes. With the drop trunk kit held in place with the jack, I drilled through the trunk deck and drop trunk at the same time. I used clecos to held it all together for now. I plan to powder coat the trunk box along with all the other aluminum panels in a few weeks. All in all I'm really glad I decided to install this kit. As everyone who's done this mod agrees, it really adds a ton of extra trunk space.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1632105529
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1632105529
