trunk access panels - do you make them accessible, or rivet them shut?

my ongoing efforts to create a custom drop trunk, I'm wondering if I should make a hinged cover or just rivet them shut?
my biggest concern is air under the car creating an upward force and pushing on a 'door' - obviously it would need an attachment, lock, velcro, etc...

the 6.5" x 10" box in the center is the fuel pump access, and fuel return
the 4" circle on the driver rear is the fuel sender access
the 3" circle on the passenger front is the tank vent (not thinking I'll need access here?)

https://i.imgur.com/EzLPBrv.png

wondering who's done any access panels that go directly to tank access
I know the directions in the manual rivet them up - but doesn't really cover trunks with carpeting

https://i.imgur.com/47hF58Q.png

I know there are drop tank covers, but those wouldn't be 'pressurized' since there's a bottom in the box below the cover - looking for some good ideas :)

I have mine held in place with sheet metal screws. The access panels are covered by carpet. But.... it's not the end of the world if you rivet them in place: you can always drill them out if you have to.

On my own car I've had to go through the trunk access panels the same number of times I've needed to drop the dashboard and remove the transmission tunnel top---which in 14 years is exactly zero.

Jeff

I riveted them and carpeted over because I will never need to access. My gas gauge is now going nuts and likely the sender....... :-)

I guess you could go wild and install PEM or rivnuts into the holes in the underlying panel, increase the rivet holes to allow a short machine screw to pass, and then fasten them into place that way.

Button head hex drive screws. Operating under the theory that access panels need to provide access.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...9303a869b0.jpg

I am in the riveted shut and carpeted over group. Have had to access once to replace the in tank fuel pump for the Sniper upgrade. Pulling the carpet up was a bigger deal than drilling the rivets and that was still easy.

Norm

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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Button head hex drive screws. Operating under the theory that access panels need to provide access.

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ah that's pretty smart looking!

Everything on my car is accessible because the O.C.D. Gene Runs Strong in my bloodline:

1. Dashboard
2. Transmission Tunnel Top
3. Stereo
4. Stereo Speakers
5. Brake & Clutch Master Cylinders
6. Clutch Slave Cylinder
7. Fuel Line Pick Up
8. Fuel Gauge Sending Unit

Just understand that it is a Personality Disorder or something like that because only one fastener was used so only one tool is needed.

On that note please pray for my wife for putting up with me for 40 years.

I riveted them and carpeted over them. I used a lighter adhesive on the carpet in those areas so I can pull it up and get access by drilling out rivits. Don't plan on needing access but can get to it if needed with little to no pain.

I did rivnuts and black screws. I may never need access, but I like the peace of mind that I have it. If you carpet the access panel, you can barely tell it's there:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1617491705

I wouldn't use anything less than Inconel screws purchased from NASA. God knows once something is riveted you can't drill them out.:rolleyes:

I used rivnuts on those access panels then I powder coated the access panels matte black to match the frame that is exposed in my drop trunk mod.

Enlarged the opening and used rivnuts and machine screws to make it accessible. Probably overkill.

Attachment 145771

Attachment 145772

I riveted and carpeted over them out of sheer laziness. I did mask the area over the access panels so no adhesive stuck. Figured I could cut out the carpet over the panels if I really needed to in the future.

An3-6 bolts , Rivnuts powder coated panels and carpeted over.

It's a car, a not Lego set. :-) No need for it to click apart.

Mine are also riveted and carpeted. I broke my fuel level sender during an autocross. How's that for lateral Gs? I dropped the tank to replace it. I was curious, so I timed it. After the car was jacked up......12 minutes. Big deal once in 7 years.

The last thing you want is to make your trunk less watertight.

Rivets are easy enough to drill out if you need access, provided you didn't glue the carpet down so well that you pull all the fibers through the backing when you try to pull it up. I used nut-certs and screws. If I never have to remove the covers, no big deal. If I do, easy to do now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1537567921

To the OP,

It depends.

If you have an in-tank fuel pump, you may want to be able to access it from time to time for replacement (ask me how I know). If you have a lift, disregard it.

If you have a mechanical fuel pump or one that is not in the tank, feel free to rivet it.

There may come a day when you would need fuel tank access for other reasons (fuel sock replacement, fuel level sender R&R, etc.), so there are some wildcards to consider.

15+ years since my Mark 3 build, I'll offer you that having access to the driver-side footbox (from the top) is far more important!

HTH,
Will

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Originally Posted by luvaz

To the OP,

It depends.

If you have an in-tank fuel pump, you may want to be able to access it from time to time for replacement (ask me how I know). If you have a lift, disregard it.

If you have a mechanical fuel pump or one that is not in the tank, feel free to rivet it.

There may come a day when you would need fuel tank access for other reasons (fuel sock replacement, fuel level sender R&R, etc.), so there are some wildcards to consider.

15+ years since my Mark 3 build, I'll offer you that having access to the driver-side footbox (from the top) is far more important!

HTH,
Will

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yup in tank pump, I got a piano hinge from McMaster and will configure a door and secure with rivnuts, if nothing else it will be an easy access panel

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Originally Posted by toadster

yup in tank pump, I got a piano hinge from McMaster and will configure a door and secure with rivnuts, if nothing else it will be an easy access panel

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you might not need the hinge. I just used rivnuts to make the panel removable. I didn't carpet over the access panels and have the aluminum over the cut outs. I initially tried brushing the panels, but ended up spraying them black with truck bed liner.

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Originally Posted by egchewy79

you might not need the hinge. I just used rivnuts to make the panel removable. I didn't carpet over the access panels and have the aluminum over the cut outs. I initially tried brushing the panels, but ended up spraying them black with truck bed liner.

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thanks! I got a 12" aluminum hinge from mcmaster/carr for ~$2.50 :) if it works - great, if not, just a simple nutsert job then

Bumping up an old thread.

Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?

I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zee

Bumping up an old thread.

Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?

I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

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I'm betting that what you really mean is "drop the tank", not "drop the trunk". Yes, you can but if you need to get at the sender or pump/pickup it's just much easier to remove an access panel, be it by drilling out rivets or removing screws run into rivnuts, than it is to remove the tank. No need to raise the car, drain the tank (because Murphy's law says that the need to remove the tank will always happen when it's full ;)), disconnect the fill tube and fuel lines, etc.

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zee

Bumping up an old thread.

Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?

I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

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yep that's doable! but depending on how full the tank is, it can be a total PITA :)
in my case it's a 26 gallon tank so I opted for the above the tank route

Attachment 176178

Totally makes sense, I knew I was missing something :-).

When I had to replace my tank, I was able to use my lift to raise the car after disconnecting the fuel lines, sender, and fill tube. I then rolled a cart under the car and lowered the car until the tank was just touching the cart. I then just removed the strap bolts and raised the car leaving the tank on the cart. It would have been a lot more work without the lift.

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zee

Bumping up an old thread.

Question (trying to see if I am missing something): on the rare occasion where you need to change your in-tank pump or sender, can't you just raise the car and drop the trunk?

I am not suggesting people shouldn't have access, I want to make sure I am not missing something obvious.

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The responses you have received so far are pretty interesting; please allow me to offer mine: Yes, I had to replace my in-tank pump. Twice.

I have an access panel in my trunk so I can get at the tank/hanger. I did not move the tank. I did not mess with the trunk. It was "relatively" easy to pull the pump/hanger through the access panel. There is no way I would want to mess with the tank, full or empty. It's enough trouble dealing with it as it is. I can't imagine making this more difficult. If you don't have an access panel, please make one. You can thank me later. :o