Printable View
Now that my engine is in, I thought I would check how bad the headers are to get in. Seems like I am going to need to take the header bolts out and put the bolts back in once the header is in place. Is this what everyone else does? Any advice? I saw EdwardB said that the alternator has to come off for the drivers side and it sure looks like it does to me too. I thought I had read the coupe was better to get headers in and out of then the roadster which must make the roadster a real PITA.
I replaced the header studs with bolts on driver side
stack
Yup. Done both. PS is similar between the Roadster and Coupe. Pretty easy. DS no comparison though. The Coupe is spacious compared to the Roadster. I'm assuming when you say "take the header bolts out" you mean the factory studs? I know some use them, or at least cut them off some. But I take them all out and replace with the proper size metric bolts. IMO it's easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tree
I found that a ratcheting box-end wrench was by far the best tool for the job. One with a swivel would even be better. Some of those bolts are awkward to say the least, but being able to ratchet was really nice and a huge timesaver once I switched over.
I always use carbon steel set screws as studs. Easy to put them in or leave them out. You can bottom them out if you wish or leave them a bit loose (my choice) and then select nuts and washers according to your desires and clearance. Gives you the advantages of studs and bolts and you know that you are getting maximum thread engagement in the heads. I've always thought this was important in especially in aluminum.
Doesn't really matter what hardware you use as the torque spec is low, under 30 ft/lbs from what I remember. Most any 5/16 or 8mm bolt can handle the task.
But, for some small block heads and the tighter bolt hole patterns you'll need a more dedicated header bolt.
Jim
Thanks for the advice, I think I would like to replace the studs with header bolts. Do you happen to know what size I would need? Thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
According to my records, I used M10 x 1.25 mm thread, 30 mm long (https://www.mcmaster.com/96144a261) for the Gen 2 in my Roadster. Just be careful. I've read where some found Ford had 1.50 mm thread (course vs. fine thread) in some. Don't know any details. For my Gen 3, I used the bolts Georgie provides with my Gas-N headers. Fit perfectly. I didn't check the thread size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tree
Thanks I am ordering a set for McMaster, pretty good price there for 25. Today I took out the header studs that were in their from Ford with the exception of the Drivers side farthest back. I do not have room to get that out with a torx socket. How does anyone get that out with the fire wall right maybe an inch from the stud. Not sure what I am going to do there. I really don't want to pull the engine and transmission to get it out. I think I may try vice grips but it is going to be a real pain to get out. I noticed a reference to cutting them studs down. I am tempted to cut it shorter but then I won't be able to ever get it out later as I will have cut off the torx head. I think I am going to pull the alternator and test fit to see if I can get the header in over that one stud. If I can get it in, I will use it and a nut. If I can't get the header over the stud, I guess I will be forced to cut it or pull the engine to get the stud out.
Any recommendations on what to do with the Driver header stud that is farthest rearward.
Nevermind, I found that 1/4 wrench also fit on the torx head stud and was able to get it out with a little wrench. Now I just need to take the alternator off. I am going to wait until I have the bolts I ordered before taking if off though.
I'm pretty sure FFR included a set of header bolts with my Coyote install kit. Are you sure they didn't supply any?
I have bolts for between the header and the side pipes but not bolts for the header to the engine block. I did already order the bolts as well but I guess I can look around again while I wait.
Maybe check your shipping/packing slips too. When I get a moment, I'll go look at mine and let you know. It's possible I'm just forgetting and purchased some, but if I did, I picked them up at a local ACE Hardware Store because I know I didn't order any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tree
I got a stainless bolt kit for (in my case) a 4.6 modular ford on ebay very inexpensively and used just a couple of studs where they fit/worked to help for holding the gasket and header while i got the rest of the bolts in.
Just checked they are 8$ per side (8) and they have stud or bolt kits.
Mike
Miami, FL
65 Coupe #439, Complete Kit, 3 Link, 4.6 SC Terminator Cobra Motor, MMR TKO 900, Megasquirt 3
I tried to put on the passenger side header today and I can't get two of the bolts to go in smoothly. They are the two upper bolts farthest rearward. The six others all feed in perfectly. The two will go in smoothly without header in place but it seems like the holes for the header are just off enough that it pinches the bolts as they go in. The bolts are currently in as tightly as I can get them but they are probably both about 3/8th inch out from flush to the header. The header seems to be held in place really well. A small part of me wants to consider it held in place and done but I know that I should keep fussing with it. I tried loosening the other 6 to give room but the two bolts are still just as tight even with everything else lose. Should I pull the header off and drill out the holes to be slightly larger or should I just call it good? Anyone else have this problem and if so, what did you do? The bolts are all tight right now and I am not looking forward to pulling it off and starting over. Also, if I pull it off, do I need to put on a new gasket? The gasket there now has been cranked down on.
All the bolts need to be tight against the header flange and properly torqued to give the proper long term seal. Leaving it the way it is with some partially out isn't an option. Wouldn't hurt to open up the holes slightly so that all go in. I probably wouldn't drill any out though. Maybe use a round file or burr in a die grinder to provide a little more clearance on the side of the holes that are hanging things up. It shouldn't take much. Since it hasn't been run, as long as the gasket is intact, e.g. not delaminated or anything, you should be able to reuse it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tree
I ended up using brute force to get the bolt farthest rearward in. I hope to not need to take it out anytime soon but at least you can get a ratchet on it well. The other bolt I ended up replacing with a stud and nut. I was able to get the stud in far enough that the nut can keep it clamped down and is flush. One side done, one to go.