Hi all,
I am ready for go-cart now. The manual says to set ride height but does not say HOW to do it. So, I am hoping there are some posts to help me.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jeff
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Hi all,
I am ready for go-cart now. The manual says to set ride height but does not say HOW to do it. So, I am hoping there are some posts to help me.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Jeff
I'll get the ball rolling for you: you set the ride height by adjusting the collars on the coil over dampers. The key is to ensure that you adjust them all the same so your car is at the same height at each corner. Jack it up a bit and then you can rotate the collar either up or down to set the height. Screwing them down, obviously, makes the car sit higher. I'm pretty sure that others will add more here...
Method I use, learned via this forum quite some time ago:
1. With suspension hanging, turn all four adjusting collars until they just touch and hold the springs in place.
2. Lower the car. Bounce up and down a couple times. Even roll it back and forth a little. Idea is to make sure the suspension is settled.
3. Measure ride height front and back.
4. Jack car back up, and turn each front and rear pair side-to-side exactly the same amount, e.g. both fronts two turns, or both rears three turns, or whatever. Doesn't have to be the same front to back, but always the same side-to-side. Typically after step 1, the ride height will be too high and you have to loosen them.
5. Repeat 2, 3 and 4 until desired ride height is achieved. You'll want it to be 1/2-inch or so high at first on a new build because it will settle.
6. You may find when done that side-to-side isn't 100% exact. Within reason, it's OK. Don't adjust just one side or the other based on ride height measurement alone.
The other method for setting ride height is via corner weights. A scale is put under each tire and adjusted accordingly. Most important for a track car. Not so critical for a street car. Note on my #8674 build, I used the method above to set ride height. Later had occasion to borrow a corner weight system. It was so close no further adjustments were necessary.
Thank you so much,Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
It is an iterative process as I suspected. Your info helps me a lot.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Excellent info. Just to add, while it may be obvious to most, you measure from the bottom of the tubular frame to floor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1567699302
I would ad just one step. When you do the initial setting like EdwardB says just touching the springs I also like to count the # of threads visible beyond the collar. Since not many have the ability to check corner weights I trust FFR welded the frame correctly. So you want the same # of threads on the left as the right. Front and rear will usually be different but left should = right.
You mean compressing the spring makes the car set higher. some shocks, such as the double adjustable Koni's, the adjusting collar is below the spring, not on top of the spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_C
Yes. I wrote my comments based on my setup. Here's an old photo that shows it, more or less:Quote:
Originally Posted by dhuff
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1506610138
My dampers have a single collar, above the spring. Effectively, you are compressing it, but in actuality, you're raising the damper body relative to the spring.
I saw in your car description that you have sway bars. Be sure they are disconnected on one end when you do any adjusting on your shocks.
oh didn't realize this!Quote:
Originally Posted by seagull81
I use 2X4 blocks that I cut at increasing length. So I have blocks that are 4", 4.25", 4.5", 4.75" and 5". They act as a go/no-go, rather than trying to get a measuring rule of some kind in-between the frame and the ground. The other thing to remember is to do your measuring on a flat level surface.
Frank
great idea, I have a wedge I use for my formula car, that way I can slide it under my measurement point. Always make sure you measure at the same spot, and as was noted in another post, level flat surface and is great if you can always put your car in the same place every time. I have to put plywood sheets under my tires due to the garage slope to get a level surface, and this can affect the measurements as well. My garage floor has a center crown that I have to be aware of as well so there can be some environmental things to consider when doing this.Quote:
Originally Posted by i.e.427
I never go anywhere without my trusty ride height gauge:) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qcr-56-108
I cut a painter's wooded stir stick to my desired ride height. If there's a gap between the car and floor, the car is too high. If the stick don't fit, it's too low. I made the adjustments with 200 pounds of bricks in the drivers seat and half a tank of gas.
Then I borrowed some corner weight scales. I found someone willing to lend them to me by putting out a post on a local Face Book track car group.
Then I got a final alignment with me sitting in the seat.
Attachment 195582Attachment 195583
I set my initial ride height with (3) 2x4 pieces of wood. Works out to be 4.5 inches.
For the corner weighting at the end I plan to get 4 scales from Amazon (rated to 550lb or 600 lbs). Should be about $100.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I’m just getting around to adjusting these collars on my MK4 go-cart. Is there a special tool that grabs these and was it included in the kit? Don’t wanna dig thru a bunch of boxes for no reason. I don’t remember seeing such a tool? Recommendations to purchase? Thx
The tool you need is called a spanner wrench, and no, it is not included in the kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Windsorpower
Most of use just will unload the suspension and turn the collar by hand to adjust the height. remove the set screws as well in the collar as they can mess up the threads on the shock making it difficult to spin the collar.
My kit, ordered Jan 2024, came with a F5 made spanner wrench. It’s a combo tool, also used for setting the rivnuts for the door latch. Could be worth checking through your boxes. But as mentioned earlier, it’s easy enough to spin by hand when unloaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Windsorpower
What he said. I've never received any tools with kits from FF. Including the most recently received Mk5. As noted, with the car jacked up and the suspension unloaded, you can turn the adjusters by hand. If you really insist on having a tool, there are many available. I have a Joes Racing 33500 Short Coil-over Spanner Wrench. Nice tool. About $40 on Amazon. I haven't used it much.Quote:
Originally Posted by egchewy79
As Chewy says, a wrench is generally not needed. But one time I had a shock sag enough that I needed the wrench to get back to ride height.
A Williams 0-472 works perfectly. I got mine from Mark Reynolds at Breeze.
John
Interesting. This is what came in my kit. Basic, but works.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
Attachment 223690
I got a spanner wrench with my kit. Actually, I think it came with the Wilwood brakes that I ordered from Gordon Levy. I might have a spare that I could be talked out of.
My feeling is that you are better off letting the suspension hang and turning the collars by hand. It is really hard to turn an aluminum collar on aluminum threads and any lube one uses will just attract dust.