Driver's footbox tight

Hi there,
I installed the seats and sat in the car. My big fat right foot barely fits between the brake pedal and the aluminum.
I wedged a block of wood between the pedal box support tube and the inside aluminum and gained about an inch.
Anybody do a more professional job of gaining more space. Is there a different aluminum panel that goes straight from the footbox front to the firewall instead of close to the accel pedal.
Otherwise I will think of a way to make the wood block permanent or perhaps put in a metal brace.

Any ideas or creative solutions out there?


Thanks,

Jeff

Some have modified the aluminum down there to gain a little more space on the RH side of the accelerator. Depends some on the engine you have and space available on the other side. Another common approach is to move the brake pedal. If you have Wilwood pedals, the pad can be moved over a line of holes to make more space. Or some just trim it narrower. I've seen one build where the bottom corner was trimmed so less interference. Finally, and this is talked about a lot as well, what shoes you wear can make a big difference. I don't have particularly large feet (10-1/2 W) but I'm careful which ones I use. Makes a difference. Some go to an actual racing shoe to be as narrow as possible.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

what shoes you wear can make a big difference.

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Agree. I never wear normal street shoes while driving my car. Search for driving moccasins for a nice selection. You're looking for the narrowest shoe possible. Puma makes some nice shoes too.

I don’t know if you have Willwood pedals or Mustang donors, Coyote or SBF so can’t give specific answers. You can trim the pedals, adjust their mounting position, adjust the pedal depth, trim/modify/replace the gas pedal and modify the sheet metal if need be. I did all of the above. Details are in my build thread if interested. Getting the foot box right is the best investment in time you can make, in my opinion. And driving shoes for sure.
-Steve

With the Mustang donor pedal box, and donor pedals, builders often used a tool called a "pedal bender". This allowed you to bend the pedal arms on both the brake and clutch, to the left slightly. This, and using the Russ Thompson throttle pedal, with the pedal pad trimmed down, allowed for much better pedal spacing.

The pedal bender tool was custom made for this job, not something you will find on a shelf at your local auto parts store. There were a handful of them circulating among FFCars.com forum members. You put your name on a list, and when it was your turn, the last builder that used it mailed it to you. When you were finished with it, you mailed it to the next builder on the list. It allowed you to bend the pedal arm while in the car, so you could fine tune the spacing. Some builders opted to bend the pedal arms out of the car, using a vice.

As mentioned, narrower shoes can make a huge difference. I have a pair that I only use for driving the roadster.

I have big, but not really wide feet. I have to wear driving shoes. There are "causual" driving shoes that don't have nomex. Puma makes some good ones, speedcats, driftcats, etc. Some people like Piloti. The soles were too stiff for me (lack of pedal feel) and their biggest size was still a little short.

I didn't modify the footbox, but did pedal adjustments as needed.

I recently discovered the New Balance Minimus, great driving shoes

John

From what I determined, the OP ordered a complete kit with Mustang brakes, so he would have a Wilwood pedal box. Shifting the pedals to the left is just changing holes, pretty simple. Unless he's got HUGE feet, that ought to be enough. Now, if he want to do power brakes, that's another issue . . .

Video

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Originally Posted by Straversi

I don’t know if you have Willwood pedals or Mustang donors, Coyote or SBF so can’t give specific answers. You can trim the pedals, adjust their mounting position, adjust the pedal depth, trim/modify/replace the gas pedal and modify the sheet metal if need be. I did all of the above. Details are in my build thread if interested. Getting the foot box right is the best investment in time you can make, in my opinion. And driving shoes for sure.
-Steve

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Hi Steve,
I lived in Palos Verdes for 25 years. Wish I had met you then. Now I am stuck in Florida as of 2019. I am 6'1", 210lbs, size 12 EE foot. Ill be 75 next month.
Anyway, I did move the pedal pads. From looking at some MK3 photos looks like the MK3 had a straight inside footbox wall. Then FFR put a dent in it for the Coyote. IL am running a 302 so there is lot of space. I think I will do a cardboard mockup of a straight wall and perhaps fabricate one if it makes sense. I'll look at some narrower shoes as well.

Another question: how do you get in and out of the thing without burning your leg?

Thank you for your input,
Jeff

Another question: how do you get in and out of the thing without burning your leg?

Very carefully.

BTW, be really sure to warn any passengers about the pipes too.

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Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR

Hi Steve,
I lived in Palos Verdes for 25 years. Wish I had met you then. Now I am stuck in Florida as of 2019. I am 6'1", 210lbs, size 12 EE foot. Ill be 75 next month.
Anyway, I did move the pedal pads. From looking at some MK3 photos looks like the MK3 had a straight inside footbox wall. Then FFR put a dent in it for the Coyote. IL am running a 302 so there is lot of space. I think I will do a cardboard mockup of a straight wall and perhaps fabricate one if it makes sense. I'll look at some narrower shoes as well.

Another question: how do you get in and out of the thing without burning your leg?

Thank you for your input,
Jeff

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Big guys need to get in these cars like they are fighter planes. Step over the pipes and stand on the floor just in front of the seat facing fwd. Left hand on the steering wheel, right hand on the roll bar, butt on the top of the seat. Move your right hand to the top of the trans cover and slide forward. To exit, open the door, pull your right foot back toward you. Put your left hand hand on the door catch on the body, right hand on the passenger seat and press yourself back and up until your butt is back to the top of the seat. Rotate and step carefully over the pipe with your left leg. Exit butt first. Practice at home. I wouldn’t be able to get in one with a top. No sitting on the seat and swinging the leg over for tall guys.

The beauty of these cars is that you can modify them with tin snips, a cheap harbor freight metal break, your rivet gun and a little imagination.
-Steve

See now you're asking about a Mk3. That changes my answer to some degree. Most Mk3's don't have a Wilwood pedal box so forget that part. But others have mentioned bending the pedals and you've apparently done that. There were a couple different versions of the inside footbox wall on the Mk3, depending on the intended engine. I'm going to assume you don't have the mod motor side. That was the most restrictive. With the more typical side, and with a 302, there's definitely room to bump out some space with a little fabrication. On the Mk3, there's also quite a bit of space available on the LH side between the outside footbox side and the body. As much as an inch or so, and that too can make a difference fitting your foot by the clutch pedal.

One hint. You should put some details about your car in the sig line like you see from many others. That helps give advice that's most appropriate. Good luck.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

See now you're asking about a Mk3. That changes my answer to some degree. Most Mk3's don't have a Wilwood pedal box so forget that part. But others have mentioned bending the pedals and you've apparently done that. There were a couple different versions of the inside footbox wall on the Mk3, depending on the intended engine. I'm going to assume you don't have the mod motor side. That was the most restrictive. With the more typical side, and with a 302, there's definitely room to bump out some space with a little fabrication. On the Mk3, there's also quite a bit of space available on the LH side between the outside footbox side and the body. As much as an inch or so, and that too can make a difference fitting your foot by the clutch pedal.

One hint. You should put some details about your car in the sig line like you see from many others. That helps give advice that's most appropriate. Good luck.

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Hi Paul,
Sorry to confuse you; I have a MK4, but was looking at pre-Coyote builds and saw that the inside footbox wall does not have the jog in it for clearance to the Coyote. So I thought that I could do something similar. DonÂ’t know about my aluminum fabrication skills so I was wondering if the MK3 inside footbox panel would fit.
I really appreciate all the help you have given me so far.
I will add details to my post.
Thank you,
Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straversi

Big guys need to get in these cars like they are fighter planes. Step over the pipes and stand on the floor just in front of the seat facing fwd. Left hand on the steering wheel, right hand on the roll bar, butt on the top of the seat. Move your right hand to the top of the trans cover and slide forward. To exit, open the door, pull your right foot back toward you. Put your left hand hand on the door catch on the body, right hand on the passenger seat and press yourself back and up until your butt is back to the top of the seat. Rotate and step carefully over the pipe with your left leg. Exit butt first. Practice at home. I wouldn’t be able to get in one with a top. No sitting on the seat and swinging the leg over for tall guys.

The beauty of these cars is that you can modify them with tin snips, a cheap harbor freight metal break, your rivet gun and a little imagination.
-Steve

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Hey Steve,
Thank you.
I will have to copy your instructions and post it on my car so that I can practice. I'm sure it's easier for younger guys; I will have to do some yoga to get in shape. Ha Ha.
I really appreciate your input.
Jeff

I thought I read that you could request the old inner panel from FFR. Wish I had done this, that bump in they made to accommodate the bigger coyote is in an awkward spot for throttle operation.
Might want to call FFR and see if it’s something you can get.
Definitely move the brake pedal pad over, I ended up cutting mine too as I kept catching it when pushing the clutch. Moved and cut the clutch pad as well.
I’ve got a pair of piloti driving sneakers but a pair of Vans skate shoes work just as well. Or converse.

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Originally Posted by Murd

I thought I read that you could request the old inner panel from FFR. Wish I had done this, that bump in they made to accommodate the bigger coyote is in an awkward spot for throttle operation.
Might want to call FFR and see if it’s something you can get.
Definitely move the brake pedal pad over, I ended up cutting mine too as I kept catching it when pushing the clutch. Moved and cut the clutch pad as well.
I’ve got a pair of piloti driving sneakers but a pair of Vans skate shoes work just as well. Or converse.

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Hey, thanks,
Vans skate shoes? I''try. Monday I'll call FFR to see if the MKIII panel will fit and if it is available.
Thanks again,
Jeff

Jeff,
I think the original mk4 panel had more foot room/less engine room. Probably ask for that one.
Basically any shoe as narrow and thin sole as possible.

Bumped the panel as far to the right. riveted the panel to the square tunnel tubes, and made a filler piece to secure to the 4" tube.

Panel also bumped out by hand as Coyote was installed before FFR developed the Coyote install sheet metal.

Second item is Puma driving shoes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1566672273

Jeff,

I have size 14E feet. I did a couple of things. With the small block Ford, as you are using, I pushed the right side of the footbox out to about 1/4" from the header. this requires trimming the bottom of the panel so that it clears the 4" frame tube. I attached to the 4" tube much the way that Cobrajj did. I pushed it over so that side of the footbox comes almost straight of the transmission hump. I bowed the panel so that it still attaches to the top of the footbox as intended. I then moved the throttle pedal to the right by reversing how the upper and lower pieces mount to the frame member.

As John4337 recommended, New Balance Minimus.

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR

Hi Paul,
Sorry to confuse you; I have a MK4, but was looking at pre-Coyote builds and saw that the inside footbox wall does not have the jog in it for clearance to the Coyote. So I thought that I could do something similar. DonÂ’t know about my aluminum fabrication skills so I was wondering if the MK3 inside footbox panel would fit.
I really appreciate all the help you have given me so far.
I will add details to my post.
Thank you,
Jeff

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Ok. Sorry for the confusion. If you have a Mk4 from the past couple years, you have the latest footbox (on both sides) which is essentially maximized. Any Mk3 panels would not be compatible because the footboxes are quite different. I think there's a slight misconception here about "Coyote" footbox panels. Yes, the Mk4 panels were re-designed to have adequate space at the top for the heads, etc. of wider engines. But the space at the bottom near the accelerator is just as wide as before and at least as wide as anything from Mk3 vintage. That extra space at the top benefits all engines, not just the Coyote. For traditional engines, gives a little more space for access to the plugs, plug wires, etc. and the header bolts. Some people with bigger feet do find the transition cuts in a little too low and interferes. Not a problem for me, but something I've seen some builders mention.

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Originally Posted by cobrajj

Bumped the panel as far to the right. riveted the panel to the square tunnel tubes, and made a filler piece to secure to the 4" tube.

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Thanks,
I will try your solution. Great job; looks great!
Jeff

Thanks,
Sounds like the way to go.
Jeff

Back 2005 when I built my Mark III 4630, I purchased a driver side inner foot box panel from FF Metal. It allowed me to move the right inner panel to about a 1/16" of the driver side header. I also added a DWC's dead pedal. I used Mike Forte's Wilwood bracket to mount Wilwood pedals. I now have enough room to drive in size 11 1/2 work boots if I care to.

Don't stop modifying until you fit comfortably!

Pat

Did some cutting of the stock small block panel. (No COYOTE part available then) Cut the panel in half at its mid point.

Added a triangular piece at the mid point to rejoin the two halves. This is below the cylinder head & pushed the lower section out toward the engine compartment at the throttle pedal location. Then bent the bottom flange down so the panel was straight & slightly longer.

Mounted the bottom of the panel outside on the engine side of the frame rail.

Also added a matching dead pedal on the outer footbox wall. I did not bump out the outer wall just ground off a bit of the clutch pedal face.

I wear size 11 wide driving shoes. Can wear my regular sneakers or boots but like the Walter Mitty effect with driving shoes.

Funny note. Range Control officer at the shooting range asked me if the COBRA out in the lot was mine when he saw my shoes.