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I know I saw this somewhere; probably edwardb's post. But I cannot find it. How do you guys fasten the dash to the frame without screws showing.
Also, I read there may be interference of the dash with the body when the body is installed Any experience with this?
Thank you all,
Jeff
My method has been to add tabs to the back of the dash with bolts before covering. They attach to 10-32 nut plates installed on the underside of the dash tube. The tabs are placed where they're reachable with an extension, e.g. between gauges, etc. should the dash ever need to be removed. Knock on wood -- haven't had to take one out yet. To be honest, it's a little tedious to set up this way. But the reward is a hidden mount that's rock solid. Several pictures below. There are other ways of course. The location of the dash is best determined with the body in place. In lieu of that, general guidance is roughly even with the top of the dash hoop in the center, and 3/16-inch or so below the dash hoop at the ends. You'll find, if you haven't already, that the dash tube has a different curve than the dash itself.
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psm4epvivq.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psil15qomd.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psp8czfixf.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...pswe4cqvnp.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psjkl7vl8d.jpg
Mine is the same concept as Edwardb's, but a slightly different approach. I used countersunk rivets to hold the right angle pieces to the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1514328478
Here's what the back side looks like:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1514329144
The right angle pieces are fastened to the dash hoop with sheet metal screws.
I'm throwing around the idea of using the FFR dash support to push the dash up into the rolled lip where no screws are needed. I've read a couple of people doing this with success, but not completely sure until I get it all together with the body on. I would also have to sacrifice my cup holders on the console.
All the MkIVs I have helped a little with (5-6) the body as received is a tight fit between the rear cockpit panel and the dash. Tight enough that the vinyl cover would soon be worn through by the edge of the rolled lip. They have all needed to have some of that edge removed to allow clearance. It's usually not a perfectly even fit all the way across. Usually tight at some spots to maybe 1/8" clearance at others. So you drop the body on and use a marker to scribe how much needs to be removed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
Yea, as CraigS said, not sure that's a good idea. You don't want the body rubbing on the dash so you trim the body to prevent that. Also agree that as received they're not typically straight. Once straightened, my experience is there's a 1/8-inch or so gap. Which is about right. Even with support from the bottom, you need something to keep the dash against the dash tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigS
I use Mike Eversons lower dash shelf & brace as the base. Its riveted to the chassis. The dash itself floats free at the top behind the bodies rolled lip. 4 screws two on each side connect the bottom of the dash to the shelf. The radio/speaker console applies upward pressure to keep the dash in place & its secured to the trans tunnel with two screws on each side. Been in place for 10,000 miles since 2015
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pi...ictureid=73199
https://www.ffcars.com/forums/member...4898-boot1.jpg
Thanks, Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I thought about nut plates or rivnuts, also, but didn't think of where to put them. I had better fit the blank dash first to position the tabs. I guess I will need to relieve the padding in the nut area. And...no clearance issues as manufactured...that's good to know. Also, it looks like I should do final fit of the dash screws when the body is back on (just leave loose for now), right? Thanks for your help.
Whatever method you use to attach the dash to the dash hoop doesn't change where it should be placed. Confirming the location with the body in place is ideal IMO and for me was easy enough to do since I had the body available and a way to quickly take on/off. But the dash can also be placed with good confidence without the body in place using the dimensions I mentioned, similar to what other builders have suggested. The brackets I showed also don't affect the padding or covering. The are placed onto the dash with countersunk screws which are dead flat to the front of the dash. If they're not dead flat, they will print through onto your covering. Likely even with padding. You want the brackets located and in their final location before covering the dash. Here's another picture showing the front of the uncovered dash where I was getting the brackets located based on the dash position. You can see where the screws are on the end brackets, which were countersunk and then I use JB Weld as a filler to skim over and sand to make sure they're flat. Same as done on the glovebox mounting screws also visible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psfca6pdld.jpg
I used the Everson bottom panel and FFR dash support and the top floats behind the rolled edge. The edge was trimmed so that it isn't a tight fit.
Chuck - Is it pretty solid with no movement? Any pics of your setup? Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by ckrueger
Here is a picture of Mikes under dash panel installed in the car. There are a number of openings stamped through it to bring wires down to the console or trans tunnel.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1555554750
It has a straight edge at the back. It rests on the bottom lip of the dash. The dash lip on the bottom will screw into it. The front edge is riveted to the chassis. With the console in my other pictures in this thread its extremely solid. But if you need to get behind the dash you can dismount it in about 10 minutes.
I used this dual lock velcro to hold the dash against the hoop. In addition to applying it to the hoop, I made some tabs that increase the surface contact between the dash and hoop. It's a very strong hold and rated to withstand 200 degrees F.
Attachment 105915
Then the center console supports the dash vertically.
Attachment 105916
I think this is an excellent idea. Assuming you trim the body edge so you end up w/, say, 1/4 inch gap body to hoop, and assuming you support the weight of the dash as RJD and others have; now all the velcro is doing is keeping the top of the dash from floating around. That will work. Be sure to position the velcro in between gauges so something like a thin scraper can be pushed up to separate the velcro. You will have to use one tool for each velcro piece.Quote:
Originally Posted by RJD
Does this velcro stick well to the powercoat? I'm finding that the velcro brand has a problem and comes off very easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by RJD
I'm using dual lock to secure my EFI hand held to the 2" vertical frame on the outboard side of my passenger foot box. It feels plenty solid sticking to the powder coat. I'm also using dual lock to secure my battery tender pig tail to the front of the 4" tube; again, it's sticking quite well.
John
I've removed and reinstalled my dash several times now and the dual lock velcro remains firmly affixed to the hoop and tabs.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065