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OO, I got my full hide from Discount Hides on ebay (thanks guys) and am ready to proceed. Question: what is the best way to glue it and should it be padded (and how)? I ordered a quart of Burge contact cement for leather. Anyone use that? BTW the full hide looks like very good quality. I recommend those folks (but then, what do I know about leather).
I appreciate any help I can get.
Jeff
Here are photos of hide. What a big cow!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR
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99 bucks. What a steal!
Closed Cell 2A Volara Foam Landau Padding, 1/8" thick works great.
Jdav covered the tunnel top and back cockpit wall. He might be able to tell you about things to look out for. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post293059
Oh...a use for the rest of the cow. I'll have to check that out. And thanks for the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky2009
Jeff
X2. Exactly what I used myself for padding, and DAP Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant (HHR) Contact Cement. Both the same as what my local interior shop uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducky2009
If I might jump in and piggyback off this thread for a moment with a question of my own... any guidance on how to size the gauge and switch holes to account for wrapping the leather into the holes? Do you measure the hide thickness with a caliper and add that (x2) to the diameter of the hole?
That's exactly how I do it. Keep them on the small side of the calculated dimension so a slight friction fit. Works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK
Thank you very much!
John,
I made a test panel to cut gauge and switch holes to make sure I had the right snug fit. It also gave me a change to glue on the padding and some scrap leather and learn how much the leather stretches, how fast the glue sets up, how to best make the pie cuts, etc. The practice pieces made the main event much less stressful. Time well spent.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1502819877
-Steve
Thanks Steve. Great suggestion.
-John
Note that the F5-provided high beam indicator light (blue) & turn signal lights (green) are slightly different in diameter...at least on my car they were. If you use them, measure each and size your hole accordingly.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK
John
Thanks John. Still up in the air as to whether I use the FFR-provided lights or go with something else, but that's definitely good to know.
As an alternative, rather than use foam padding, I used two layers of leather. I don't particularly like the puffy padded look so the double layer of leather just adds enough spring and pad without looking like a bedhead.......just my opinion. I glued on the first layer and completely cut out the openings of the instruments and then did the pie cuts and wrapped around the final layer. Just be aware that if you use this method you need a glue that sets down flat - either a fine spray or spread it on thin with a flat spatula (like I did) if you have one of those cans that sprays splatty ribbons they will show through the leather.......sorry I dont have a close up detail shot, but I am very pleased with the result.
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What you did looks nice and is certainly a good option. I agree with you. I don't care for the puffy look either. I too played around with double layers. Two vinyl, one vinyl + one leather, two leather. Then found the 1/8-inch Closed Cell 2A Volara Foam Landau Padding, plus decided to go ahead with leather. I found the 1/8-inch closed cell foam gave a nice sculpted look without being puffy under a single layer of leather. It doesn't look like the much thicker open cell foam padding included in the kit. These pictures give a little bit of an idea. I also decided to put the steering wheel on the left side. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotyacht
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psgutwqoct.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...pshbky5ebz.jpg
Check your gauges. I ordered the Vintage gauges with my kit (delivered early 2017) and they have turn signal and high been indicator lights built into the speedo. Older gauges did not have them. Not sure about the other available gauge options.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK
I might be ahead of your build status, BUT, read up on body fitment. The body lip at the dash and rear cockpit wall needs a little trimming for a proper fit. If you don't trim, the body will rub against the dash and could dig into the leather. Ask me how I know. ;) It left a small indentation, but luckily didn't tear the leather and you can't see it.
where did you get the finger handle for your glove box lock, i've been trying to find one
If that's for me, it's a VW 111857131L glove box lock. Pretty widely available at VW outlets including eBay where I've found them regularly. Looks good but also like how it works. Has a spring loaded latch with a pushbutton, and you only need the key if you want to lock it. I learned about it from another forum post a number of years ago and have now used it on several builds.Quote:
Originally Posted by clancypm
Where did you get the chromed grab handle below the glovebox ?Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
thanks!
mark
The handle is from Eddie Marine, their part number 275-24P Grab Handle, Aluminum, Polished. Have used it a couple times. Nice and solid with this steel fabricated mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewma
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...psriactbhu.jpg
https://oi867.photobucket.com/albums...pshl10v3zi.jpg
In NY State, the dash and visors must be padded. I know, it's ridiculous, but that's the rule in NY.
Thanks!
Great looking dash, Paul. You always so superb work.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
thanks ed
Anyone have experience wrapping the FF updated dash with leather ?
Paul, I like that handle as well. When I asked Eddie Marine, they say it comes with the handle only (not bracket). Did you order directly from them ? Did it all come under one part number ?Quote:
The handle is from Eddie Marine, their part number 275-24P Grab Handle, Aluminum, Polished. Have used it a couple times. Nice and solid with this steel fabricated mount
Thanks,
Mark
Only the handle is from Eddie Marine. The bracket pieces pictured I fabricated myself. They're custom to the Roadster dash and frame. Sorry I didn't make that more clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlewis
ahh that makes sense. I like the bar and was hoping for on less item to fabricate.
BTW - nice work
I also got a marine-supplied bar, from West Marine. But I only used a 1/8"thick aluminum doubler behind the dash. With the dash screwed to brackets up top and a Mike Everson / Replicaparts under dash filler panel, its nice and secure. I like Pauls brackets, but I'm not that good with steel.
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