Recommendations for tools and things to have before getting started?

Hi Everyone. Happy to report that I recently ordered an Mk4 complete kit and can't wait to start building it next month.

From reading these forums it seems like most recommend a dolly for their frame and buck for the bodywork. Recognizing that a lot of people have built some nice ones, I'm wondering if there are any recommendations for ones that can be purchased? I'd love to build one, but am worried I won't have time before my kit arrives and would rather be ready to go so I can easily move things around. I've found uni-dolly products online that look like they might work? Would love opinions and recommendations.

In addition, is there a resource with tools, speciality items or other great things to have that I should consider getting? I've got the standard set of hand tools and will be picking up an engine crane from Harbor Freight. Wondering what else i should add to the order...

Many thanks in advance!

Here's a thread from the Cobra forum I found helpful when considering what tools to invest in:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...building-Cobra

There's a handy-dandy checklist that supplements the one FFR give you. The simple expander tool is something I have used just last weekend - the cheapest "new tool" you'll buy!

Personally, I would get a good air compressor as one of the first things I didn't have beforehand - here's my take on what tools were helpful to me - like you, I had basic tools to start with as well:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post351933

Cheers

Dave

I would recommend the rivet spacing tool from aircraftspruce.com. It made spacing rivets ten times easier when the distance you had to work with was not compatible with the FFR template. You can choose multiple different rivet spacings with the same tool. Get yourself about 70-80 clecos as well. They are invaluable.

Scott

Most all of the tools I used were basic shop stuff. The ones that really became valuable over time were a good battery operated drill / screw gun with 2 batteries (I used a general purpose Ryobi 3/8 for the entire build and it never, ever faulted) and an air rivet puller.

The Ryobi worked as everything from drilling holes to a drum sander to a die grinder... and lots more. I abused that thing and it kept coming back. 2 batteries means never having to quit working because of a battery.

I've worked as a mechanic with my hands my entire life... got a pretty good grip and hands dont tire too easily... but if I had to pull all those rivets by hand, I never would have made it. That one air riveter from Amazon became priceless.

If you think you will have further uses for an engine crane grab one. If not, I used a huge eyebolt threaded into a 4x4 that spans 3 of the ceiling trusses and just the eye is visible below the ceiling drywall. And a come-a-long and an engine levelor. You want the levelor no matter how you hoist the engine. Instead of moving the engine trans to the car w/ a hoist, you roll the car to the engine trans.

Best thing I have, a pneumatic rivet gun..... and of course Clecos fasteners.

Not sure exactly where you are located, but presuming you are in the US, check your local auto parts store (Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc) for their lend a tool program. I have an autozone a mile away, and I have borrowed a few tools that I was only going to use once.

Just to add my 2c.
I didn't use an Air Rivet Gun, nor Clecos for my entire build.
Sure, both would have made it easier, but I found it totally doable without either.
I have a decent quality hand rivet gun that I easily pulled every rivet with. In fact, I don't recall even once thinking "wow, that's a lot of rivets". They were a snap (pun intended) to do by hand.
and I just used my smaller 3/8 cordless drill (2 batteries), a 1/4 drive socket adapter and the self-tapping screws to hold the panels as needed.
I used 1/8 jobber drill bits in my corded electric drill to drill the holes.
In the end, I'm very content that I didn't spend the money on an air rivet gun and clecos.

For my build, the most valuable tools (besides the obvious ones, wrenches, sockets, screw drivers... etc...)
- dual battery cordless drill
- 10 count of cheap 1/8 "jobber" drill bits (the shorter ones with dual ends)
- decent 1.5 ton floor jack. Not one of those smaller 2 or 3 ton ones. I happen to have a Harbor Freight Aluminum one. Works well and easy to move around.
- Air Compressor. This one isn't a "must", but it's sure nice to use even if to just blow of debris and dust with.
- 4 Jack Stands.
- Home Made dollies Easy(ish) to move the whole car. (see below) Strong enough to hold complete car. Made them from the cheap furniture dollies from Harbor Freight. Took them apart, shortened them and added more wood. Including short wheel stops.

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/c...155676_595.jpg
(larger version of this image)

Two items I found helpful. An air powered drill from HF. I little smaller than a cordless drill. A combination drill and tap set I found on Amazon. With the drill and tap set is easier to drill a smaller diameter pilot hole first.

You are going to be pulling over 1000 rivets! A pneumatic riveter is a must have in my opinion. About 50 1/8" and 20 3/16" Clecos. A set of four jack stands with protective pads and a jack. A good drill and some #10 and #30 drill bits. A paint pen and a torque wrench with 10-150lb range (borrow the big one for the 250lb bolts unless you just like to have your own tools). Good electrical crimper and heat gun with different sizes of heat shrink tubing.

As others have said a river gun and Cleo’s are a must. Get 5-10 1/8” drill bits as you’ll need them. Frame dollies are not a must in all cases as I put mine on jack stands and it didn’t hit the ground till it was a roller. Also if you got the powder coat option a set of jack stand plastic covers are nice so you won’t scratch the powder coat. You can get them cheap at harbor freight. Also a small or 90 degree drill will be needed for the nose aluminum. I used rivnuts on some things to make them removable so a rivnut gun is nice. You can use a had one like what harbor freight has if you don’t want to spend a lot. Most will suggest using steel rivnuts in 1/4-20 and 10-32 size and I agree, aluminum ones are not what you want. Torque wrenches are also a must. The large spindle nuts at 250 ft/lbs you can do the loaner tool at autozone if needed as that is the only hardware you will need it for unless you are going IRS if so you’ll need it for the rear axle nuts too. The rest are very basic tools, assuming your not building the motor or transmission.

Thanks so much everyone. This has been very helpful.

One more question - what is the recommended way to store the body during the build? Can I put it on top of moving blankets on the ground?

Spent some time thinking about what were my "go to" tools during the assembly... what I always came back to or reach for time & time again. Many of these could be considered a "luxury" item, but they have paid for themselves many times over in ease of work, solution of a problem, etc.

- Compressed Air (go bigger than you think needed)
- Air Riveter
- Cleco's (at least fifty 1/8", twenty or so 3/16")
- "Nut-Sert" tool (with 8-32, 10-24, 10-32, & 1/4-20 mandrels & steel thread inserts)
- Countersink
- Tap set
- Hand Reamer
- 12" and 36" stainless metal rulers
- 6" & 18" combination square
- Automatic center punch
- Deburring tool