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Is POR15 @ $28/PINT WORTH IT?
Can Rustoleum Bare Metal Primer plus Gloss Black work as well on bare steel like the hood and trunk supports? And...is Rustoleum OK for the bare aluminum?
BTW my IRS center section came from Ford painted. Is that paint any good? Or do I have to remove it and paint with POR15?
Just curious...
IMO, POR15 is definitely worth the price of admission. I work in the coatings industry and it is industrial strength. Like anything, just have to make sure you prep the surface correctly. Rustoleum primer and topcoat work, but I think are a little more finicky to prep work, meaning that I don't think its as flexible to work with as the POR15.
If the IRS section is already painted, I'd probably leave it, but in my experience, these coatings were more for initial rust prevention versus long term hold out. Your choice of course. If you want to paint it, you really just need to make sure the paint is well adhered to the surface, de-glossed then I believe you can use the POR15 right over that.
Only down side to the original POR15 is that it is UV intolerant. I think if it gets too much exposure to light it will damage the coating. There are other versions of POR15 that don't do this.
Pot-15 is light years better! Maybe better than powder coating, only drawback to me is the extended drying time.
Don't use the Rust-Oleum primer. It's crap. My rear axle is covered with just Rust-Oleum black paint, and it's holding up fantastic. The frame, I put down the primer first. Crap! The Pain on top chips free of the primer too easy. Can't say I know what the reason is, but I'm not pleased with it. The Rust-Oleum also started to cure too fast to get very far on the frame. I had to dump a couple of paint batches for fresh. About a dozen brushes too. I don't know if por would have helped with that though. If I do it again, I won't use Rust-Oleum. Or at least, I won't prime first, and I'll spray it instead of brush it.
I hate rust, really, hate is a strong word, but I really hate rust. I had POR 15 put on the entire underside of another car that I restored for myself (1970 240Z). It looks as good today as the day we put it on, almost 10 years. I would buy the smallest can available as it goes a lot further than anyone thinks. Seal it afterwards, invert the can to preserve it and on to the next project. A lot of people can't reuse the can as it got contaminated so be careful. Whatever you wear, or drip on throw it away. POR 15 will not come off. HTH, Richard.
Consider having the small bare steel pieces powder coated. Well worth the $$.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR
Thank you for you experience!Quote:
Originally Posted by skidd
Jeff
Thanks,Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Oben
Sounds like PORb15 is the way to go. Prep first with sandpaper or 3M and de-greaser.
jeff
OK, somebody has to take a different (contrarian?) position. I'll bite. Three years ago I painted my IRS center section with Rustoleum engine paint. Still looks great. Primed it first, then painted it with the spray can. That said, I'm a big fan of powder coating and take that approach whenever I can.
Rustoleum is for farm equipment not cars. It fades and eventually will start showing rust through it. The only exception I've found is their rusty metal primer -- that stuff holds up well but thats not a top coat.
Por15 does not have UV inhibitors and if you do an internet search you'll find folks complaining about it fading if you don't use a top coat. That may not be an issue under the car where there is no direct UV exposure.
However, Eastwood makes their 2K ceramic Chassis Black in a two-part automotive enamel that holds up well in the environment a car operates in. It is truly an automotive grade paint that is resistant to fading and chipping from road debris that gets kicked up. It is a two-part enamel (has a hardener) that comes in a rattle can with a clever container within a can design that allows you to add the hardener just prior to use and like any two-part paint has a pot life. This is no hardware store rattle can paint and the spray nozzle has a great adjustable fan pattern that makes it easy to get a professional finish. Their black matches the FFR powder coat perfectly and the finish can be cut and buffed just like automotive enamel because it is automotive enamel.
I agree with the posts so far. POR15 is in a different league than Rustoleum. I've used the POR15 on the IRS diff and other suspension parts, misc. metal parts, even touched up an engine with it, and all worked very well. With all the suggestions and cautions so far. I also agree the Eastwood 2K ceramic is good stuff. Painted the hood hinges and some other stuff with it a couple builds ago and I like it a lot. Agreed it goes on well, looks like powder coat, and seems very durable. Maybe more durable than powder coat since it's catalyzed. Downsides are that it's not cheap and it has a limited pot life once you pierce the built-in container to mix the hardner. Plan to have whatever you're going to paint all lined up ready to go. Won't go on the shelf for later. I've found Eastwood's Extreme chassis black paints to be excellent. Not as good as the 2K, but better than anything I've found at the big box or automotive stores. Last, in descending order, I've also found the Dupli-Color Ceramic engine paint to be pretty decent. All head and shoulders better than Rustoleum products, which I don't use after finding better alternatives.
I agree with Paul's comments and share his experience with Eastwood's 2K and extreme chassis black paints.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
If you go w/ the POR15, pay strict attention to Richard Oben's storage recommendations. Long ago I thought I would try it so bought the smallest can they had. Used it on small items maybe 3,4 times. Six months later I wanted to use it again. He!! getting the can open only to find hard glop so that can was done. I am done w/ POR15.
If you do go with POR15 make sure your work area is well ventilated. Very well ventilated. Better yet wear a respirator. Your brain will thank you.
I used POR15 to paint a 1953 Willys Jeep frame 15 years ago and It has held up really well. I sealed the leftover paint in small paint cans sealed with plastic wrap filled to the top. POR15 in these cans is still like new. I did have to top coat areas in direct sunlight, but underneath I never did.
POR-15, rust coatings, and rust converters are often poor electrical conductors. I know, so what? That often means you can't powdercoat over them. Be sure and test a couple of small pieces of scrap metal before doing anything important.
KBS Gloss Black Rust /Seal Preventative Paint...…..I restored two 1967 Fairlanes...and sprayed the undercarriage with single stage KBS.....10 years later....the undercarriage still looks like new......it can also be brushed on...and it's cheaper than POR-15......comes in many colors...Check out Ebay…..