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A couple of questions for the group. Does anyone know if a 5 speed manual transmission out of a 2004 3.8l will work in the roadster. Also I bought what I thought was a rear from a 1987 Mustang but it turned out to be from an 86 T bird with 373 and discs. Has anyone used this and what can they share. The width over the rotors is 59 3/4 so that doesn't seem to be an issue any advice?
Thanks
Be careful moving forward on buying parts because it may end up costing you more in the long run. If you have the t bird axle with 4 link it will work. Also a 3.73 gear is very fun and will make a smaller engine feel more powerful. With the trans you may be ok if it's a t5. You can use Google images to compare styles. I am not at my laptop but there are great resources available online. The t5 was a widely used trans but its weak in stock form if going over 300hp. What are your engine plans?
You have determined it is in fact the 8.8, an not a 7.5"?
The 8.8 rear out of the Turbo Coupe bird is actually a pretty good choice. As mentioned you get the disc brakes, and the lower gears, many which were the 3.55's They work fine with the 3-link suspension, with no modifications needed. The only down side was they are the 4 lug set up, which limits your choice of wheels. The rotors can be modified, to a 5 stud, if you desire.
The rear from a t bird was not my idea it was pulled from a mustang only found out later looking at older posts it seems as if others had used these in mkll. Agree about letting the buyer beware i also looked at what was supposed to be an 8cly t5 that was in a 5.0 but it was a 2.3
You can get a 4 lug, 15" Halibrand style, from here.
http://psvintagewheels.com/products.html
If in fact you have a T bird reared, be aware that the axles are not the same length as a Mustang axle. It's been a long time ago, so I don't recall the exact difference, but I think the T birds where 3/8" longer? I had a reared from a Turbo Coupe and tried to swap a Mustang axle for one that was damaged, wouldn't work as you couldn't get the brake calipers to center over the rotors.
Thanks for the heads up I be careful
I was able to confirm it was an 8.8 by the shape the plan was to swap for a 5 lug setup but Rich grsc below maes me a little nervous
Contact Richard Oben at North Racecars. He can fix you up with a bracket and the axles to give you the 5 lug setup with Fox Mustang width. Give him a call - he’ll be happy to answer all of your questions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponymedic
The Turbo Coupe axles are 3/4" longer then the stock Fox Mustang axles. As cw mentions, North Racecar's has the items if you want to switch to the Fox width. Rich needed the new caliper brackets, that move the calipers inboard the 3/4" needed with the shorter axles.
All the 95 up Mustang donors also had the longer axles, and many completed their builds using them. From what I understood, FFR anticipated builders using later model donor Mustangs, and enlarged the rear wheel openings beginning with the MK3.1 models, to avoid potential tire rub. Now keep in mind that is using wheels and tires, that would also have fitted the Mustang. I know the 15" FFR wheels did work with this rear end width, as would any stock Mustang ones from that era. You would want to check further if your thinking of using some wide *** 17" wheels and tires. Backspace and offsets, could play a roll in gaining proper clearance with calipers, and suspension, if wide-tracking.
From what I have gathered the 3.73 rear was used in the Turbo-Coupes with automatics, the 3.55's in the manual tranny cars.
Here's some good info on the differences of the T5's used in Mustangs over the years.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Techn...t5_history.htm
Thanks all for the advice I reached out for disc brakes r us before i saw the replies. They suggested I get 28 spline axels and rotors from an 2005 svo so I ordeeed them from summitt let you know how I make out one other question for the group I am doing the three link and from what I can tell I only need the two square brackets that face down . Im in the process of cleaning up the rear to prepare for paint . Can anyone confirm that I only need the center brackets shown in the picsAttachment 98706
I would strongly suggest canceling that order and getting fox width axles from north race cars or someone else as others have suggested.
Unless they know something no one else does, never heard of 2005 axles in an older 8.8.
If you end up wider than fox width you will have wheel tire fitment problems if you try to run proper deep dish wheels.
Cant cancell but can return.since ita already on the way.uggh when it gets here im going to slide them in and see what the number is and will post what i get. what number am i looking for i read 59 1/4 i assume that is over the rotors at the rim mating surface? Again thanks for the adviceQuote:
Originally Posted by Murd
Thanks Ac
Yours is a little different then mine, in that that mine didn't have that lower bracket on the left. So that one is not needed and could be cut off. The one with the bolt in it on the far right, sticking up, is not needed either, I trimmed mine off at the top of the axle housing and used the lower section of it for the limiting cable to attach to. (Some builders choose not to use limiting straps at all) Also some builders cut the ears off the pumpkin, but I used the one on the passenger side to attach an additional 3 link brace, similar to the one VPM sells. This reinforces the banana bracket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ponymedic
Keep the larger bracket that hangs down, intact. That is the one that is used for attaching the panhard bar bracket, the lower control arm,and the coil over shock.
Attachment 98717
Attachment 98718
Thanks Bill. Feel like an expectant father trying to get everything ready. Was hoping to take a roadtrip and pick up on my birthday in February but they can only accomidate a couple days after (oh well) im sure I will be relying and you and the others in the future
Bill ~Quote:
Originally Posted by AC Bill
I’ve contemplated limiting straps and have mine up in the air winterizing and cleaning. I remember a previous discussion on the topic, but could not locate it. What was the length of the straps you fabed up? And your thoughts/experiences on their value besides the obvious...
Chris
There have been discussions on the advantages/disadvantages of using them, on the FFCars forum for over 15+ years.Quote:
Originally Posted by cgundermann
The straps used are the ones FFR supplied, and were included in the parts that came with the roadster back in 2009. I am not sure of their length, offhand.
At the time I was building the roadster, the use of limiting straps was included in the build manual, and they certainly seemed sensible. When the rear of the car was jacked up, they prevent the entire weight of the rear end, having to be supported by the shocks, and in the case of the 3-link, resting on the 3-link framing on the left side. They also prevent any stress on the flexible brake lines. It also made sense, in that the driveshaft, pinion, yoke, and u-joints weren't over-stressed in any way, by the extreme angle.
As you may recall from those earlier discussions, the argument against using them was, that during hard cornering, and the car had extreme body roll, the limiting straps could limit the rear suspension travel, and cause the inside rear tire to lose traction.
Personally, I have not found this to be the case, and I have done some fairly "spirited" driving... I believe that to reach the point where the body roll is that extreme, chances are good your tires would lose traction first. :eek:....Additionally, at that point, the rebound on the coil-over spring has fully extended, the spring is loose, and no longer pushing the axle on the inside wheel down any further anyway. I believe the rebound is only around 2" with the 250# springs, less with heavier ones.
One just has to jack the car up by the rear frame to measure this rebound distance, (as with different spring rates it will vary). You probably could use this in helping determine the strap length required. Truck tailgate straps are available in varying lengths, and would work. I have read of some using chain, run through a bicycle inner tube, for straps.
Some builders decided to mount one limiting strap off the center (pumpkin) of the rear end, up to the 2x3 frame under the trunk floor. This would still prevent the entire weight of rear end hanging from the shocks, or driveshaft angle concerns, and not limit suspension travel at all. I really like that solution as a compromise.:)
Thanks Bill, now I do remember the handling debate. Interesting that I got mine in January of 2011, and FFR no longer included or mentioned them in the MK4 manual. I’ve currently got all four wheels dangling, and my rearend is just a bit above the third link brace. I do like the idea of the single strap attached to the pumpkin and anchored above the the trunk brace to limit it.
Appreciate the detailed response/information.
Chris
The limiting straps where a holdover from the use of donor springs on the rear suspension. The have nothing to do with preventing the rear axle from hanging on the shocks. The coil over shock are not effected by the axe weight. With coil overs they serve no purpose, the shock limit travel enough to not worry about brake lines as well.
So the 05 SVO Axles from Summit came in and I installed them in the 87 T-Bird rear fully expecting it to be too wide. I was pleasantly surprised to see 59 1/4 flange to flange and I get rear disc (albeit 10 1/4 rotors) without having to swapAttachment 98846 Thanks again everyoneQuote:
Originally Posted by Ponymedic
It's Always Great When A Plan Works Out!
.C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !
Yes, but have you tried to mount the brake rotors and calipers yet?
Waiting for them to come in the sn95 will not work but am trying something from a t bird forum let the group know how it turns outQuote:
Originally Posted by rich grsc
Yea wasnt gonna try it on a monday too much bad mojo
Pony Doctor,
If need be, consider contacting Moser Engineering because they may have a solution should you find that you need one.
Shown below is what I've got on my car but understand that I'm running a Moser TSD-500 (Dana 44) set up, but it may work for your rear end since it is a Ford unit.
http://www.moserengineering.com/6300...brake-kit.item
I went with these brakes because they were simple and heck that generation of Explorer tipped the scales at a tad over 4,200 pounds so I figured why not.
Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
Steve
Thanks Steve Ill check it out