Just wondering...
if the gelcoat is so good, is it possible to just repair the mold parting flashings and keep that finish for awhile. Or, after grinding them down; is it just better to just prepare for paint?
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Just wondering...
if the gelcoat is so good, is it possible to just repair the mold parting flashings and keep that finish for awhile. Or, after grinding them down; is it just better to just prepare for paint?
I kept mine in gelcoat for ~3 years! I loved the rawness of it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1491862880
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1300396211
Of course once you go to paint, a star is born!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1535841285
:)
An easy way to knock down the parting lines is to put blue painters tape on either side of the seams, then use emery boards & go to town.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR
The remaining parting lines end up being roughly the same thickness as the tape so it is minimal once done.
Just remember to take your wife out to dinner after she discovers that she has no emery boards.
From 20 feet they look pretty good, especially if your eyes are 55 years of age like mine.
https://youtu.be/IGYtX-3p7xk
NOTE: T.S. Gordon Went East Of Us So No Water Came In My Shop!
I just knocked the parting seams down, and spray canned them to seal. Drove it like that for over 5 years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC Bill
Great Temporary Tip AC Bill!
Wonder what RED will match the best?
Hummmmmm?
Here ya go,
Krylon Fusion red gloss is the one I have saved.
I am still in gel coat and the car attracts a lot of attention at cars and coffee and the like. Knocking down the parting lines and hitting it with the spray paint craig mentioned will really give you a good 20 foot look. My car is going to Kliener in the spring so I can call this project complete!!!
Please do not put oil based spray bomb paint on the body, especially a ground body, unless you are certain that you can get it ALL off before taking it for the real body and paint work.
Jeff
I used an Alkyd, which is a synthetic. Painter had no issues with it at all.
Thank you for your tip about oil based spray paint. I THINK I'll just knock down the parting lines (emory board) until I save up enough $$ for paint. Looking forward to just DRIVING it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Jeff
Emery boards? C'mon GoDad...really? That would take days and who know how much $$$ dumped at the cosmetics counter at Walgreens to buy the darn things! I sheet of 40 grit on the DA and 45 minutes---done!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1532310142
:)
Jeff
Attachment 92931
Honestly, just leave it as is and drive it for a while. I left mine completely untouched and drove it for a summer. You will get just as much attention as a painted car. Rough seams don't make any difference on the driving fun.
Any kind of temporary paint is taking a risk of messing up your paint job. Also, DO NOT get Armorall or any other tire shine products near it until it is painted.
IMHO, driving in gelcoat will give you an extended testing time to get the mechanical/electrical all sorted out prior to painting.
FFR sells a Red Gelcoat Kit (Part #80876) that includes: 1 fl oz of catalyst/hardner, 1 pint of red gelcoat, and 1 pint of red gelcoat paste. I have not tried working the seams with this kit, but it is an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR
that is great info that I hadn't heard until now. Sure gets rid of the concern about getting the wrong type of filler or paint in the joints.Quote:
Originally Posted by walt mckenna