Exhaust Baffles for side pipes?

I don't know about the rest of you, but I find my roadster to be painfully loud. I'm using a 1996 4.6 liter motor, factory five's custom hooker headers, and stainless side pipes. Does anyone have experience using aftermarket baffles that can be slipped into the end of the side pipes? If so, please let me know what you think of them. I don't want to buy different side pipes; that is more of an investment than I am prepared to make at this time. I am not concerned about power loss resulting from installation of baffles; I would rather have a slightly less powerful car that I can actually ride in, than a race car that I can only use with ear plugs or ear muffs.
Thanks
Joel

I am also very interested in this. I would almost prefer people see me coming than hear me coming. And, I hear you about ear plugs... I wear them all the time now and it's getting a little old.

I remember reading a few threads on this. Try a google search with FFR roadster exhaust noise reduction. If you can't find anything post again and I'll post a description of how I installed auger type inserts I bought from Jegs.

HTH
Norm

Search bobl. He did a study with his dyno on several things including insets.

I have the hooker headers and ffr stainless side pipes and installed the dynatech 3 1/2 inch cones

The cones did help reduce the sound levels at low throttle levels but if you put your foot into it it still has a very loud bark

It still has a great exhaust note with the cones installed

For the cost I would have to say that I am happy with the results of installing the cones

Rick

the other forum has a couple lengthy discussions. One is at http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-insert-3.html

The modified patriot auger insert seems doable, but does it really quiet the car down? One guy on the other forum forum said he could really tell much difference. I'm thinking I should try the auger inserts; they cost under $20 each, so I guess it is worth a try.

I'm a big proponent of Gas-N pipes. From a pure decibel standpoint, not much different than the FF's. But a much mellower tone plus the tips are turned down. Both make the sound much more tolerable in my experience. Plus they seem to last much longer than the FF pipes, so don't get louder over time. There are multiple other options that are widely discussed. But I'll leave that to those who have experience with them.

But my main point here is to comment about ear plugs. Regardless of the pipes you have, and the amount of quieting you achieve, use ear plugs. I've measured the sound pressure level at nearly 100 db in the cockpit while cruising, and that was when I could barely hear the side pipes. What I did hear was wind noise, tire noise, traffic noise, etc. We live in a harsh sound environment with these open top cars. Don't use some protection and you'll be looking at hearing loss over time. I use Etymotic ER20 ETY-Plugs. They are sound reducing but not like a full foam plug and are comfortable and easy to use. But whether these or something else, I highly recommend using ear plugs in all cases.

Here is what I did
http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...ust-quiet.html
Since then I found that they kept cracking at the spot welds and rattling. So I drilled in from under the exhaust pipe through the outer pipe and into the pipe in the spiral. Took them apart and welded a 1/4 nut to the spiral. Dimpled the outer pipe a little and re-assembled. Then I ran a 1/4 phillips oval head machine screw in and tightened it a little. No more rattles. My pipes are black and I have since replaced that big SS clamp w/ a much smaller black version. On your SS pipes you would need to approach this a little differently so it looks nice. But I have had these inserts now for over 5 years and I am VERY happy w/ the results.

I read a lot of reports about inserts. And I tried a couple. I wasn't very impressed. Maybe an insert dropped the sound a little bit, but it still had a bite to it.

So I cut the mufflers off, and welded in some mufflers from Classic Chambered Exhaust http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/cobra.html That made a HUGE difference. The sound was certainly lower at all RPM's; and it was softer, and more mellow. The harsh blat was gone, and no more bite. Although I would not classify this as cheap, it's a lot cheaper than Quiet Pipes or Gas-N pipes, but a lot more work.

Has anyone had experience or knowledge of Boig Motor Sports Quietpipes?

I don't know if this is more work than the OP wants but, here's what I did.

Bought a set of auger inserts from JEGS and modified them by welding a metal plug in one end. I drilled holes through the tube in front of the plug to allow exhaust to escape.
Attachment 75650
I took the pipes to a local welding shop and had them cut the turn outs off. You could do this step yourself but you'd need bigger stones than me.
Attachment 75651
The augers were trimmed to fit partially inside the glass pack of the pipe. The welded in metal plug was drilled and tapped and a spacer made to allow the auger to be bolted to the turnout.

Attachment 75652
I then took the pipes back to the welding shop and had the turn outs welded back on with the outlets indexed down about 30 degrees.
Attachment 75653Attachment 75654
Here's them back on the car.
Attachment 75655

The metallic ring and bark are almost gone at idle and you can have a normal conversation while cruising at 55mph and less. Above that speed you are hollering in the wind.

HTH

Norm

I've heard of builders using a Flowmaster. Need to cut and weld, but they liked it.
http://files.dpbrands.com/fmm/search...s/13524320.jpg

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/flowm...iABEgIY2_D_BwE

I've been using Boig Quiet Pipes for 3 years and they have been fantastic. Before I installed them on my 2004 Mk3 my neighbors were complaining about the noise level when I would take the car out. No more problems. The quiet Pipes generate a mild deep throaty tone at idle and while cruising around town they are just as mild. Hard acceleration and they perk up a bit but no raspy bark no ringing from your ears. There just is a mellow throaty roar and you can continue your conversations right onto the highway. They have really civilized my roadster.
I'm running a Ford Racing 392-W, 425 HP Holley 750DP with 4 into 4 headers. I recently damaged the side pipes backing into a curb and had them rebuilt by Boig Motorsport and what a beautiful job and quick turnaround time too. I've tried several others would recommend them over everything else.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blue Classic

I've been using Boig Quiet Pipes for 3 years and they have been fantastic. Before I installed them on my 2004 Mk3 my neighbors were complaining about the noise level when I would take the car out. No more problems. The quiet Pipes generate a mild deep throaty tone at idle and while cruising around town they are just as mild. Hard acceleration and they perk up a bit but no raspy bark no ringing from your ears. There just is a mellow throaty roar and you can continue your conversations right onto the highway. They have really civilized my roadster.
I'm running a Ford Racing 392-W, 425 HP Holley 750DP with 4 into 4 headers. I recently damaged the side pipes backing into a curb and had them rebuilt by Boig Motorsport and what a beautiful job and quick turnaround time too. I've tried several others would recommend them over everything else.

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I spoke with Bob at BOIG this last week to dicsuss odering a set. Did you spray paint yours flat black as he suggested to me, or apply some other coating?

I had my side pipes ceramic coated chrome. With a dark blue car it was the classic look I was trying to achieve.
Bob has some good practical ideas about painting the side pipes either flat black or white and just touching them up
at the end of the season.

I've pretty much decided to try a simpler version of what Norm B did. I ordered the Patriot Auger style baffles, fiberglass batting material, and stainless band clamps from Summit. My plan is to cut the turndown pipe off about 6" from the end, wrap the inserts with fiberglass, slip and bolt the augers into the sidepipes, then put the turndowns back on using the bandclamps. My thought is that by doing it this way, it will make it possible to change the baffles easily as well as adjust the angle of the exhaust coming out the tips. I'll let you know how it works out.
Joel

I completed my patriot auger baffle project. I think the car sounds much much better. It has more of a muscle car tone and volume, as opposed to a dragster. It is still loud, but not as loud. It no longer has the harsh bark that frightened me every time I stepped on the gas. The most difficult part of the project was cutting the auger blades down to size. The diameter of each new blade was 3", and had to be cut to about 2" so it would slip inside the side pipe. I first used metal cutting shears, to cut off roughly 1/2 inch from from the radius of the blades. I then finished up the fitting on the bench grinder. I wrapped fiberglass fabric around the inserts, between the blades, for extra measure. I welded a 3/8"coupler perpendicular to one end of each insert, so I can bolt the insert into the sidepipes at the tailend. I cut the end of the sidepipe off, halfway between the end of the turnout end and the main body of sidepipe, so the baffle can slip straight into the sidepipe. I used a 3" band clamp to attach the turnout to the side pipe. I installed the turnouts pointing at about a 45 degree angle down and out. Overall, I am very happy with the new sound of the car. The project cost less than $50.

I have read somewhere about “Car Chemistry Inserts”. Does anyone have any experience with these?
http://www.carchemistry.com/silencer-insert/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AC Bill

I've heard of builders using a Flowmaster. Need to cut and weld, but they liked it.
http://files.dpbrands.com/fmm/search...s/13524320.jpg

https://www.tdotperformance.ca/flowm...iABEgIY2_D_BwE

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I have the Flowmaster Slimline mufflers. They are great, nice, reasonably quiet sound when you are cruising and a little nasty when you go full throttle. Cost is about $220 each and I had them welded into a set of stainless steel side pipes. Highly recommended.

Wade

Quote:

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Originally Posted by slpro1207

I have read somewhere about “Car Chemistry Inserts”. Does anyone have any experience with these?
http://www.carchemistry.com/silencer-insert/

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I had the CC inserts in the J-pipes in my MkI. I started w/ a 3 disc unit but thought I was losing hp so chiseled out one of the discs. That felt good and was only a little louder. My home made 2.2 disc job definitely quieted the pipes similar to the spirals.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joel Hauser

I completed my patriot auger baffle project. I think the car sounds much much better. It has more of a muscle car tone and volume, as opposed to a dragster. It is still loud, but not as loud. It no longer has the harsh bark that frightened me every time I stepped on the gas. The most difficult part of the project was cutting the auger blades down to size. The diameter of each new blade was 3", and had to be cut to about 2" so it would slip inside the side pipe. I first used metal cutting shears, to cut off roughly 1/2 inch from from the radius of the blades. I then finished up the fitting on the bench grinder. I wrapped fiberglass fabric around the inserts, between the blades, for extra measure. I welded a 3/8"coupler perpendicular to one end of each insert, so I can bolt the insert into the sidepipes at the tailend. I cut the end of the sidepipe off, halfway between the end of the turnout end and the main body of sidepipe, so the baffle can slip straight into the sidepipe. I used a 3" band clamp to attach the turnout to the side pipe. I installed the turnouts pointing at about a 45 degree angle down and out. Overall, I am very happy with the new sound of the car. The project cost less than $50.

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Cool mod! Would love to see some pics.

Sorry, but I didn't take pictures. However I basically did what NormB did - see his pictures above - except I reattached the side pipe tips using stainless steel band clamps I purchased from Summit. Using the clamps (as opposed to welding the tips back on) allows you to remove the baffles. It's also a lot simpler.

I second Edwardb regardless of the pipes air noise and other cars is what causes a majority of hearing loss. This is a fact for any convertible or bike for that matter. I have had some fellow racers that rarely wore plugs when we raced and they obviously have hearing loss. You would be amazed that even at the average in town commute speeds you can cause damage to your hearing even if you don’t have to yell when talking with your passanger.

I started out with sending my pipes to Breeze Automotive to get them modified using their quiet pipe setup. Super glad I did. I still have a nice sound but I can actually have conversation and listen to music while I drive. Last thing I want is to go deaf because my car sounds like a Harley. The Breeze quiet pipes was like $800.00 bucks plus shipping. I then spent another $400 on ceramic coating. The pipes look great and sound great too.

Good luck.